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Attached are two photos of damage incurred during shipping.  The time and circumstances between delivery and opening the package leave me with no recourse but to attempt to fix this on my own.2021-01-12 14.30.272021-01-12 14.30.39

My plan is to use a contour gauge to trace the positive and negative contours of the front of the cab onto two blocks of wood to create top and bottom forms of the roof curve and the sandwich the rear edge of the cab between the forms and slowly tightening with "C" clamps.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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  • 2021-01-12 14.30.27
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Your clamp idea is worth trying. I have "fixed" this kind of damage a couple of times. Can be done. I have generally approached it with pliers/Vice-Grips, gently, slowly. Gentle tapping can be used, also. Some like to heat the metal with a torch; it does help, I imagine, but I have not tried it.

If it breaks, brass and epoxy become your best route; add a brass shelf and "rebuild" the broken area.

Don't expect perfection - I am sure that you do not - as it is essentially impossible and sometimes that "just one more tap/squeeze..." can be one too many.  You are going to have to address the surface scars anyway, with epoxy or filler and files or some such.

Last edited by D500

Coach, your plan is solid, and that’s what a lot of us do to make this repair,.....use hardwood, not pine or birch, those soft woods will just conform to the dent,.....cut your forms with flat ends, so a sturdy C clamp can do the work,....I use a little heat on stubborn offenders, ......that works magic,.....just warming the work piece works, ....no need to blister paint, .....small butane torch, or map gas bottle is fine,...heat from the underside, this way if you do need to touch up, it’s concealed to the inside of the cab area,....

Pat

I also use the wood clamp method but rather than cut your blocks in the exact finish contour, use a slightly larger radius. The metal will spring back some unless you actually melt it. I have used both a high temp (800F) heat gun and a propane torch held some distance away and moving back and forth constantly. Heat it , bend a bit, heat, bend, heat bend a little at time. Straightening the deflectors will be the hard part to get right. You may have to grab them with smooth jaw pliers and get it pretty hot.

Pete

Last edited by Norton

Thanks for all the replies so far.  Pat it's good to know that what I planned to do is what you would do.  Thanks for the tip about the hardwood.  Norton your advice is sound however not knowing what that larger radius should be and as D500 said, I'm not expecting perfection I'll proceed as planned with the addition of some heat.

I'm not in a rush so it will be interesting to see if anyone else chimes in with something different.

To add a bit of color on the “take your time” comments: after perusing every thread on this forum I could find (lots) I settled on the wood block method. Have used it twice with near perfect result.  See photo for my setup and note the two screws.  Once snugged up I tightened those screws literally no more than a half turn twice a day. Repairing a 75 degree corner bend on a postwar 2034 it took almost a month total.  I started bending to a 3.5 diameter arc first (which I read was the arc size Lionel used) and once I got there I went to a larger arc of 4 3/8 and just spot bent the corner only. The only heat involved was warming the whole shell on the hot Texas summer sun. I used hole saws chucked in a drill press to cut the arcs.

I read everything posted here related to postwar stuff and it is amazing what one can learn.  Thanks.
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