I have a Lionel hopper car I just painted that I’m not thrilled with the color - used a combination of Krylon colormaxx and Testors clear gloss - no decals yet so I’d like to strip and start over
My question - going to try alcohol / brake fluid and see what happens - but I remember years ago hearing about soaking shells in 5 gallon buckets of Tide powder ??? - still being done with today’s spray paints ?
Thanks in advance
Joe S
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Joe,
Go to Walmart and buy a gallon of Super Clean (Purple Jug) . It's in the Automotive dept. it's a biodegradable cleaner,, soak full strength. It will not hurt plastic, the stuff is great, should be all you need.
Jeff
Score the paint with coarse sandpaper so the stripper can pentrate some , but stay out/off of the plastic. Expose some edges with finer paper.
The Castrol & other detergents get under and lifts well... if it can get under. It's paint penetration depth seems limited. Overnight soak and a bit with a stiff toothbrush. Rinse a whole bunch and let it sit again overnight, re-wash and clean with a pre-paint solvent of choice.
What didn't you like? Mixing layers of paint types takes technique. Mixing brands is risk one, paint chemical type the next, and that can get messy.
Too wavey? Too deep? Too glossy?...
Tin, hi-rail, traditional postwar?
Some of the depth will get lost in a satin or flat top coat. Decal plans overide anything really.
Masking on the gloss for decal, and or feather sanding as best you can up to it, only on gloss soon to be flat.; is needed for the new coat to grip onto. (a haze with a scotch brite pad is fine. Glossed surfaces resist adhesion. This sanding will mostly magically disappear with any clear topcoat, and totally when you nail it. (have to rinse and wipe the clear sanding dust off well, that dust causes more haze and depth ripple than the sanding micro-scratches.
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