Substation Project

I made this substation for my power plant several years ago. The transformers were from K-Line (I've seen these available from someone recently, but can't remember who). The rest of the sub is from a Walthers HO substation kit. Makes for a nice, compact substation.

Ken

Excellent Kanawha. 

That looks good! You're using separate step up transformers for each phase. I'm going to use one 3-phase transformer to do that job. It's a good job and very inspiring.

Many HO structures can be used for O gauge because the prototypes also vary in size and look the same. If you go to www.walthers.com and do searches on power, substation, transformer, etc you can find many detailed units that can be used.

933-3025 Northern Light and Power Substation $31.98

150-752 Substation Kit $29.95

322-2018 Power Station $28.98

405-39844 Transformers (2) $21.99

272-130953 Transformer Station $66.99

and there are others.

Although some are costly, they are very detailed, and a quick solution. I have used them along with other materials on my layout with much success. I find that scratch building is fun, a challenge, BUT it often costs more to do than buying a kit AND the results are sometimes more detailed. Sometimes you just have to build your own structures to get exactly what you want. It is a cost/benefit decision.

Even checking out the HO stuff is great for IDEAS.

Trainman2001, I admire your work and writing skills. I enjoy all your posts.

Paul Goodness

I'm responding to your laptop problems. My son took a hammer to his last March. He replaced with a Mac. No more problems. I replaced my 10 year old PC with an iMAC last May. Could never go back.

The laptop problem appears to be solved, which is very good since I'm not in the mood to shell out $$$ for another. It's not just the cost, but also the enormous amount of time to migrate all my programs to the new one. I wouldn't want to just mirror the disk because I was afraid that whatever was causing the problem on this one would be replicated on the new one.

My wife asked if I had loaded anything new since the problem started. I had loaded Steam, which is a game loading service, Planetside2 which is a action/adventure game, and Nvidia's updated screen drivers. The first two are rarely being used, but the third one....

I did a computer restore from the day before the Nvidia drivers were downloaded. They were supposed to speed up the video to make it better for gaming. The date was November 19. Once the restore was complete, the problems were gone. Files loaded fast again, the touch-pad mouse worked normally, web pages loaded fast, and it stopped crashing. 

The irony of this was we had at the same time worked a deal with Time-Warner Cable to double my internet speed, and yet my computer was running horribly slow. 

I don't know the mechanism that causes an updated video driver to affect almost all functioning on a computer, but apparently it does. When it crashed, the only thing that worked was a forced shutdown with the power switch. It then took more than 7 minutes to reboot only to crash again in a few minutes. The hammer looked like a good solution.

Ken,

That is a fabulous job.  Question for you:  What size are the danger signs on the fence?  I'm making a few of various wordings and trying to get the proportions right.

Many thanks,

George

Trainman2001,

Without getting too technical, video drivers are low level device code that interact with the computer's hardware.  An inefficiency there or (more likely) a corrupted driver could very easily impact performance.  Your laptop could be processing its work very quickly, but waiting for a damaged device driver to react and display it?  Not so good.  Think of it as having a turtle run the final leg of a 4 x 100 yard relay race.  That baton isn't getting to the finish line any time soon.

Anyway, I'm very impressed with your research and attention to detail.  The plan and transformer photo are very interesting.  I learned a lot.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

George

Oh!  This just occurred to me.  I think Westport Models has a large transformer available that might fit your need.  I would also scan through the resource list pinned to the top of the forum.

George

Will do!

As to research. I just read the entire document on High Voltage engineering from a South African engineer. It was very interesting. My main reason for doing so was to find out what those Sci-Fi looking aluminum donuts were that you see on the tops of insulators on very high voltage equipment. They're called "corona rings" or "Guard rings" and equalize the electrical fields from the tops to the bottoms of the insulators thereby reducing the chances of arc-over. I'm thinking of ways to model them because they're so interesting looking.

I'm starting to make my transformer drawing now. I'll share them when done.

Using the MTH transformer as a model, here's the modified transformer adding the details that will make it fit in as an "operational" substation power transformer. Items added include:

• Conservator: the large tank that sits above the transformer and serves as a reservoir for cooling oil
• Radiators: I added three sets. The bigger the transformer the more radiators are present. Some arrays are so large that they sit as a separate installation next to the transformer
• Control Box: the transformers usually have some enclosed box on the side with doors
• Surge Suppressors: tall insulator stacks that protect the transformer from line surges due to faults and lightening. These can be connected to the transformer (as shown here) or sit on their own supports and foundations. For the sake of keeping the substation footprint as little as possible, I chose to have them hung on the transformer.
• Bushings and insulators for High Voltage input and low voltage output
• Miscellaneous conduits and lines: not shown, but can be added when building
• Bucholtz Valve: situated between consevator and transformer — prevents flashover from reaching oil reservoir in case of catastrophic failure inside the transformer
• Base: grid made from Plastruct 1/4" I-beams 

Besides the insulators and fans, all other appliances can be fabricated from styrene using normal scratch building techniques. I'm going to use 0.040" for the transformer tank and 0.080" for the reinforcement ribs on the outside. I still have lots of rivet decals left over from the bridges project so the various access ports and panels can be properly decorated.

Here's what it looks like. This is not to scale, but the attached PDF is exact 1:1 from which direct measurements can be made.

I assume the circuit interrupter and CVT are on the 300KV (primary) side of the transformer. What is the secondary side for? Seems like you need a lot of structures to support power distribution on the secondary side depending on what that distribution is used for.

You would only need one CVT to develop 110V for relaying and controls.

Ken

Well... I just checked Plastruct, and it's time for a redesign. That lattice structure would cost a small fortune to fabricate using Plastruct Warren Truss girders. They're over five bucks a piece and my design will use 36, 9" pieces. They come in packs of 2 for $10.49, so that's over $167.00 just for the girders. There are other substation designs that use much simpler overhead structures. I'm going to do a re-design and probably scratch build my own towers. I'll keep you all posted.

Just following this topic with interest. I'm getting some great ideas. Thank you, Terry

That's correct. But all the designs I looked at had a CVT and it looks cool. The secondary side is 10 kv and will go out of the station on the telephone poles I'm going to build and go to the town and other users. I will have pole transformers to step down to consumer power.

Don't you need a CVT on each lead to develop measurement and signaling on each phase?

Excellent! Glad to turn on some lights...

Trainman,

I think I will have you do the research for my next project.  I am rethinking my telephone poles after printing your .pdf file.  I've actually made some new (correct) ones already.  

Your substation research is making me want to trash the one I made a few years ago.  Thank you for posting the data you have compiled!

Dave

You should have a circuit interrupter on each phase on the transmission side which you have.

On the distribution side you should probably have an oil filled 3 phase circuit breaker then have a structure to break out several distribution circuits. Each distribution circuit should have some sort of circuit breaker or at the least an overhead fuse on each phase. Power would not go directly out from the transformer to telephone poles without circuit protection for the transformer secondary and/or distribution circuits. To further complicate things, there should be various manually operated switches to isolate circuits for maintenance. Also there could be capacitor banks for power factor correction. 

Take a good look at the layout of the Walthers HO substation. They did a pretty decent job on the distribution side.

You only need at least one 110V circuit to run the substation controls, relays and monitoring system. In most cases you would have at least one potential transformer on one phase of thee transformer secondary. It's unlikely a CVT would be used as you can derive control voltage easily with a potential transformer which is a whole lot cheaper than a 300KV CVT. However, if there is metering you need a current transformer and potential transformer on each phase. I'm reluctant to go into too much detail because with more detail comes more confusion.

As far as an overhead girder system to support wires, if you look at modern substations steel poles and structures are used to support the overhead wiring. Girder style construction went out of favor decades ago. Again, look at the Walther's substation. It is a good representation of a modern substation taking power from a transmission line and sending it out on several distribution circuits.

Ken

Good points! I've looked at the Walther's model and my life would be much easier if someone just made models like that in O'scale. Oh well...

Regarding the output side... 

You're right! There's much more stuff on the output side before it gets to the utility poles. Now... where can I put it. If the foot print gets much longer than 24" inches, I may have trouble placing it. If I made it a bit narrower, if could fit elsewhere, but not at its current width.

I'm even thinking about buying the HO model and using it to scale up to O'scale.

I have another minor dilemma. My railroad is basically a transition RR based on the 1950s. Since it's hi-rail and I'm not a stickler for absolute adherence to accurate temporal accuracy, I have already cheated in this regard having engines from the 60s, and even the Norfolk-Southern reincarnation of their F-7 business engines which was put back on the rails in the last decade. So having a substation with "modern" steel construction instead of lattice-work girders could be tolerated too. 

I'm also cheating in my freight car fleet having auto-racks, center-beam flatcars, hi-cube box cars, center-flow hoppers and other very non-1950 prototypes.

All that being said, I'll re-draw the plan to include simpler, A-frame bus structures which will solve the $$$ challenge and also add some output side controls and bus structure. I have space near the train station if I can shrink about 3" from the width, so I can make it longer. I'd also like to include a cinder-block building on the site.

I just took some layout measures and can use a 10" X 24" fenced in substation space. That should give enough space to do what would work and be reasonably faithful to its imagined function.

Since electrical gear comes in a lot of different sizes, a lot of parts out of the Walthers kit can be used and still look reasonable. That's what I did on my power plant sub. A minor point - if you look at today's substations they all are a uniform light grey. Transformers, circuit breakers, control boxes all are the same shade of light grey. Wire is aluminum and is greyish. Prior to the 60's transformers, breakers, and other large equipment were painted a dark grey. Insulators were brown and wire was copper so it should have a green patina.

Ken

Since this project is actually going to use more modern equipment and superstructure designs, I'll probably go with the all grey scheme, except I might paint the insulators something more contrasting so they're stand out.

So I've taken all the advice and examined the prototype pictures some more and modified the design to include some output side controls and circuit interrupters at strategic locations. Since it's all on the computer and I haven't started anything—and won't for quite some time—any changes from suggestions are no problem at all, so keep the critiquing coming.

As you can see I've simplified the bus supports, and added the Low Voltage framework. The width is compressed since I'm sure these clearances are too tight for a real station, but it will be interesting to look at.

I think there's still some more apparatus on the output side, but I'm running out of room. There's also no room for the control building.

I printed the new design out on multi-sheets and taped them together to do a trial fit. It will work. I also scaled a picture of a electrical worker to give an idea of scale.

I also attempted to make an insulator using sequins and some 6/10 beads. The experiment was a failure in my estimation. The beads are made in China and varied greatly in size, shape and were irregular. I also bought some 11/10 beads, but they're very small and would be better for HO. I'm wondering if there's some sizes in between these two that could be better.

Meanwhile the plastic push connectors will make good insulators. More about them later.

THE SUBSTATION IS LOOKING VERY NICE!!!

Try looking at

Marlinpjones.com for mini computer fans

For the transformer fans, I've placed an order at Roundhouse Hobbies in L'ville from the Walther's Catalog for three late model EMD cooling fans. These are 48" in HO and would scale out to about .55" in O'gauge. That's a tad smaller than I drew, but they'll work fine. I was looking to buy an HO hulk and cut out the fans, but the proprietor said you can buy super-detail fans from Walther's. He was right. They'll be in next week. Meanwhile I've got tons to do before I start construction on this project. It will be a 1st or 2nd Qtr 2014 project. Got to get the trains running over the ravines first.

These details will make the project.

Trainman, have you seen this 1:50 scale transformer manufactured by WSI? It is offered as a trailer load.  The usual diecast vendors such as diecastmodels.co and 3000toys.com offer it for around $40.  Not sure if anyone else mentioned it or if the details are good enough for your substation.

Thanks! I found the SMIT on several sites at several prices. It's a bit longer, but smaller in height that the MTH model on which I based my design. It would require some mods and additions, but wouldn't be difficult since it's resin not die cast. That being said, it's still $40 plus shipping and I don't want this substation project to get out of hand, which is could easily do when I start buying all the structural parts. I've bookmarked is so I can always fall back on it if a) I run out of time, or b) find it more difficult than I thought to build my own.

If anyone has a master sculpt or scratch build transformer, I can copy make a mold and make this available, I have been doing resin casting and mold making for over twenty years,,

Just found this post on a search and would like to know how it's coming? I'm interested in seeing the stretch type line used.

It's in the project bin. I'm collecting materials for it, but am fully engaged in finishing the scratch-built Victorian train station that I'm doing a detailed description of in the "Continuing Saga of the P & PRR" build thread.

In fact, I just resurrected old plans from a 1950s era Model Railroader for a small substation that I scaled up to O and am using as an alternative to the switch yard support structures. It's all made of channel and angle, no H or I beams, so it could be less $$$ to build.

Much to my dismay, scratch-building is not necessarily cheaper than buying kits. In fact, it can be equal to or more expensive. When you start adding up the piece count of all the bits and pieces, it quickly gets to $100 or higher. But it enables you to control what you want on the layout. 

I just got to the part in the P&PRR thread where you purchased the automotive fasteners to replicate transformer and breaker bushings.  I worked for about 15 years for a power company on communications and controls in power substations.  I quickly skimmed through and see you have lots of plans but i is on hold.  I will come back to this thread later after I get caught up to date with the P&PRR.

Yes, scratchbuilding can get expensive especially if one needs a lot of specialty parts.  Amazingly, since I moved to O gauge, I have purchased a few built up structures for far less than I could have scratch built them.  Later, I will do some things to make them more unique.  On the other hand, if you want to model a certain structure, you usually have to resort to scratchbuilding.

Mark, it's the latter that is driving my scratch-building efforts. There are no substation kits available in O. HO is completely different with a really nice one available from Walthers.

It's also particularly satisfying to build stuff that's really unique. Also, most of the kits from the likes of Bar Mills are little tiny structures. Stony Creek has some nice buildings.

Your preparation & planning are just amazing as is your finished projects. I look forward to the completion of this project.

Thanks Spence!

I think this will be 3rd in the scratch-build queue, just to give everyone a sense of timing. I'd like to tackle the engine house first. I have two kits that also need building: Bar Mills Gravely Building and Les Lewis' resin firehouse kit. Both are not for the faint-hearted.

There's a substation located right in front of a shopping center that I'm going to photograph before getting started. It's very accessible and I probably won't be arrested as a terrorist casing out my next job. Most substations are not so visible. I'm also thinking about using Evergreen Styrene structural shapes instead of Plastruct. The styrene shapes are less "clunky" than the Plastruc ABS. They won't have to hold any loads and you just have to keep from putting your fist through it as reaching for a derailed car on the other side.

Yes, that is true.  Your plan to use an existing station will be important.  You don't look like a terrorist to me. 

Traiman:

Check out Walthers 933-3126 transformer kit. it may be what you are looking for in 3-phase (I think!)

Paul had some good choices also. I have a few friends who have used the Northern substation kit on their O scale layouts.

Joe

Joe,

I see it is HO.  As a former power company employee, yes it is 3-phase.  I am looking at the photo on Walthers online catalog.  I am imagining an O scale employee next to it instead of the HO scale employees.  It is a little small for O scale, but could be workable. Most 3-phase transformers would be larger, but in a pinch, most model railroaders wouldn't care.

Trainman, what do you think?

Scratch-building the transformer is not a problem for me. The rest of the yard with all the disconnects, breakers, surge-protectors, and a zillion insulators is another story. It would be great if Walthers would produce one in O, but I can't wait for that to happen. They seem to be doing very little in O these days.

During my recent vacation and as a result of your posts, I found the K-line by Lionel 2009 freight load in a Ft Myer hobby store. They had four so I bought two. Nice looking units.