Subway fried board

Same old request, the exact product number please?  It sounds like you have one with the 5V board, those have a propensity to croak at the drop of the hat.  If it has a 9V battery, it's almost surely a goner and you need a new board set.  The replacement is the PS32 replacement board.

The model # 30-2198-1. Where would I get the board?

Well, we're all waiting for the PS32 boards to be back in stock at MTH Parts, now you're waiting for one too.

I guess I'll put it on a shelf until I get a board. Thanks

Has there been any official notification on timing of these replacement boards?

@DaveGG posted:

Has there been any official notification on timing of these replacement boards?

Edit: At the time of typing the comment, based on the last public discussion with MTH I'm basically repeating my own version of how I heard what was said. Between this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lfv27SeWkU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9wK-RQBVvU where this very topic has been asked about upgrade kits and repair boards.

No, and demand increases by the day.

The problem is, limited supply of components, MTH is still making trains and thus has allocated boards from the parts supply, and then on top of that, ATLAS is building MTH engines, and they too allocated from the supply.

So the decision was not to set aside boards (and PS32 Stacker is slightly different boards at least with different connectors) for the repair and upgrade as this was deemed less profitable less demand or contract obligation.

I would think that makes a lot of folks less than happy, but again, it's not something many of us have the $$$$$ to say build these boards at X cost regardless. It's all down to the mighty $$$

They are not making money on selling us boards and unless that impacted sales of new engines, they are not seeing incentive to go out of their way.

Well, one incentive is the bad press they're going to get when dead engines start piling up!

FWIW, they did finally stock some PS/3 Steam Tender boards, so I ordered some for repairs waiting on the shelf.

I don't know why you guys don't just order the stacker boards in stock at mthpartsandsales.com?  I ordered Stacker boards w/5v connectors this week and received them!

The above part is shown as in stock, and if you want to use it as a steamer just update the flash code.

The Stacker 3v connector daughter boards available too:

A couple weeks ago I ordered and received the elusive Proto 3 tender boards too!

Jim

WOW, last time I checked, they were out of stock!  Maybe the logjam is finally broken!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

WOW, last time I checked, they were out of stock!  Maybe the logjam is finally broken!

Now that it is known they are available, lets see how long they last?

Jim

I'll just keep bumping up my quantity until they tell me there's not enough to fill the order!

Well darn, just ordered a few of the remaining myself. One of those things where again, demand VS supply, there is some serious pent up demand. I imagine now that the cat is out of the bag, they are gone by the end of the weekend.

Looks like the Stacker 3/2 board are all gone now!

Jim

I guess it didn't take until the end of the weekend!   I should have bought more!

Wow. They sold out that fast.

Dont mean to resurrect this thread, I have a diff PS2 subway that also has a fried 5V board, I did get stacker boards to replace it (and a few extra for future 5v boards that haven't failed yet). I noticed theres a soldered wire leading to a 5v regulator (see pics below) My assumption is this component isn't necessary for the stacker board?

Correct, that's a negative regulator that they bolt to the chassis for heatsinking.  It's not used for the PS32 board.

Thanks @gunrunnerjohn, one other question which seems odd, header R41 off the stacker board looks like that's where the battery cable is supposed to go, but I thought the stacker boards aren't supposed to have battery cables, is anything supposed to go in R41?

For the love of trains NO. DO NOT plug a battery into a PS3/2 stacker set.

That connector was to improve a second unit "slave" signal drive. Plugging a battery will damage the board.

@DashingDanLIRR posted:

Thanks @gunrunnerjohn, one other question which seems odd, header R41 off the stacker board looks like that's where the battery cable is supposed to go, but I thought the stacker boards aren't supposed to have battery cables, is anything supposed to go in R41?

From the Stacker boards arriving topic:

@Mikado posted:

George,

the Stacker is capable of handling two motors. For a 4 motor application you will need a PS3 slave board in conjunction wigh the Stacker. Yes, the 2-pin connector (that I wish to make the adendum for) identifies the forward & reverse directions (for the slave board).

Good question!

Thank you,

Mike

Again, NEVER plug anything into that except a slave board wiring tether/harness. Plugging a battery connector and thus battery or BCR left over from ps2 5V would be very bad.

Most slave A-B-A ps2 diesels just wired that signal from the motors as the PS2 5V had no such provision. Again PS2 is using the analog slave board that just buffers and duplicates the original output signals.

Again,  most wiring harnesses never had that slave connector on the original boards so in most cases- NEVER plug something into that 2 pin PS3/2 stacker board port.

I'm glad I asked for clarification, thanks for everyone's help!

I'm laying out the locations for the new board and it looks like I am going to have to lengthen a few wires, but after removing all of the unneeded 5v components (battery holder, -5v voltage regulator, etc) and putting in the new speaker, this was the only way I could thing to mount the new board and properly heatsink it.

I'm not ecstatic about having one side rest on top of the new speaker but I don't see any other way this board fits in without doing that.

Is there another way to mount it in these subway cars or is this the best way to do it?

Sitting on the back of the speaker won't hurt anything.  Does the shell fit back on with it there and the connectors inserted?

Yes the interior shell fits, as long as I lengthen some of the wiring coming from the front of the car.

Usually you have to cut some of the bottom of the interior at speaker location when using the BF-43 speaker.  The older BF-33, 34 had low profile at outer diameter, but the currently only available BF-43 is high profile at outer diameter.  G