I am working on a Sunset Model engine for a friend. The issue he had with this engine is it would not seam to go very far, it would stall. I concluded that it was most likely binding up. The traction tires are old and need to be replaced I figured that’s all it was. Still need to find tires if anyone has recommendations. But when I put it back on my rollers I noticed that it wobbled quite a bit. Figured it was my rollers then it bound up and I started looking elsewhere. What I finally noticed is the riser from the frame to the bronze bushing on Fireman side of the locomotive was missing in both the rear and front drivers. The two middle ones have springs. Is there anyway I can get something to replace them with?
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You might want to contact Sunset Models directly and include this photo and description of the problem.
You could probably put anything in there as long as the heights match. Brass or even styrene rod would work. I have a few 3rd Rails where the front drivers have solid spring substitutes. Be sure to look in the packaging for a baggie of spares.
Most of these engines have a long screw through the steam chest and two screws under the cab opening. The steam chest screw is between the cylinders accessible from below. The cab screws will be looking right at you if you are looking into the cab, sometimes hidden by the deck plate if it has one.
If it is still binding up, I’d check the driver quartering. You can isolate the driver sets by pulling the rods. You will probably need a 3mm socket. You’ll actually see the rods at odd angles if you rotate the driveline manually.
@Norm Charbonneau thanks for the suggestions. I think that’ll be the best way. I’ll get some brass rod. As for getting the shell off. I’m still at a loss, what you describe is what I tried before and I tried again. I can get the rear loose and free but the front of the boiler still feels secured somewhere.
Huge fan of your layout and how to videos. If the quartering is off, is there a tool/process you use to fix/reattach them. Is the process different for brass wheels (3rd rail) vs die cast ones (like mth/ Lionel) A link to where purchase tool would be great.
Zach, maybe more photos would help. I’m no expert on the model in question. On some engines the smokebox details can get hung up a bit during disassembly even with the steam chest screw out.
Mike, thanks man, glad you can put up with my unpolished droning. Someday I’d like to have a fully fitted model machine shop with proper quartering abilities. The most common quartering jig I know of is the NWSL one:
Not sure there’s much of a diff between brass and diecast quartering other than diecast drivers being ‘captured’ in a rigid frame.
"Quartering" is not for the casual hobbyist. There are a number of ways to do it, but you cannot successfully do it on the kitchen table.
My method is described in an early '90s issue of OGR (no, I don't remember which one). Joe Foehrkolb had a different scheme. Never tried the NWSL unit -
You need at a minimum an arbor press or substantial cast iron drill press and a special steel fixture. Cheaper to let an expert do it.
Unless a Sunset driver is loose on its axle, it should not be out of quarter.
Bob, I'd definitely spring for the NWSL jig if I needed it. My J1a project had two sets of slipped drivers at one time. I had it exchanged for a new chassis basically.
The other challenge is indexing the main crank pin angle. Kinda wonder how that's done.
Someday I'd like to have a small modeler's mill and lathe for the shop.
Wonder if that slotted brass bushing up front there is holding you back. It’s slotted for a reason.
Looks like the chuff switches and selector switch is intact, but bypassed in the tender? Should be easy enough to restore.
Still a bit curious about what you described as ‘binding’. I would assume something mechanical as in the gearing/rods/drivers.
Yes,, you need to take a screwdriver and remove the slotted screw. That is what should be holding the boiler in place up front.