Is there a way to change their vans from DC to AC so I can run my street cars
& their vans without changing the track back & forth??
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One of us is mis-understanding the situation.
All of my SuperStreets (K-Line by Lionel) vehicles, and my other trolleys of various makes, operate just fine on AC. I power my SuperStreets section of the layout with an MTH Z1000 transformer.
My SuperStreets school bus and UPS van both operate on AC also with no modification. I have a new vehicle which I have not tried out yet, but I assume it will run on both. On AC it may be a shade jerky and may buzz a little bit.
Superstreets vehicles will run exactly the same with either AC or DC. You can also just put them down on normal three rail track and run them on that, too, with your normal train transformer.
RTR Superstreets sets come with DC transformers made by Lifelike -- the same units used in many N and HO gauge RTR train sets - I guess they are included because they are cheaper than any AC power supply and can handle the power needs (the motors in SS vehciles are about the size of those in HO or N locos).
Anyway, the SS vehicles have very small Dc can motors and have a full wave recitifier built into them (its the small round black thing about the size of a large pill in front of the motor) which means that they run regardless of whether running on AC or DC power on the track, but they run only forward regardless of which polarity of DC you provide them if running on DC. You can remove the rectifier (just rewire the leads from the pickups directly to the motor) and they will then run only on DC, but will now backup if you reverse the DC polarity.
RTR Superstreets sets come with DC transformers made by Lifelike -- the same units used in many N and HO gauge RTR train sets - I guess they are included because they are cheaper than any AC power supply and can handle the power needs (the motors in SS vehciles are about the size of those in HO or N locos).
Anyway, the SS vehicles have very small Dc can motors and have a full wave recitifier built into them (its the small round black thing about the size of a large pill in front of the motor) which means that they run regardless of whether running on AC or DC power on the track, but they run only forward regardless of which polarity of DC you provide them if running on DC. You can remove the rectifier (just rewire the leads from the pickups directly to the motor) and they will then run only on DC, but will now backup if you reverse the DC polarity.
Reason for asking -- the sets (2)came with a DC power pack in each and since
my layout has S/S set up for AC for my trolleys I didn't want to ruin the
vehicles ---The power packs are clearly marked DC for vehicles only
Thank all of you for your replys
JOHN
my layout has S/S set up for AC for my trolleys I didn't want to ruin the
vehicles ---The power packs are clearly marked DC for vehicles only
Thank all of you for your replys
JOHN
Yes, John, the SuperStreets sets do come with that small DC power pack. Just keep it in the box, or use it to power some accessories, and use a regular AC transformer to power the vehicles, trolleys, etc.
Again thanks to all of you.
This forum is great.
JOHN G
This forum is great.
JOHN G
Wish there was a Super Streets Taxi Cab! Would be nice to have a few run around the passenger stations.
How about a 1937 Studebaker Hearse to carry the people to the cemetary after the car crash?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...T50&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...T50&feature=youtu.be
Nice.
7thing3 - I am ecstatic to see someone else is bashing SS cars and trucks with die cast bodies, too.
Those vehicles shown in the picture below are some of the converted SS vehicles I've fitted with 1/43 die cast bodies. Someone asked about a taxi: Solido offers the 1950 Chevy (second row left) as a very nicely outfitted yellow cab - this particular die cast body is quite roomy and it is an easy conversion.
Key points I've learned.
1) Plastic bodies will not work: SS vehicles need the weight of die-cast bodies both to push their center contact springs down on the road and to assure their wheels stay within the rails to get good traction.
2) Most of these had the chassis shortened for a shorter wheelbase. Shortening the wheelbase even a small amount makes an SS vehcile run MUCH smoother around curves. SS vehciles have fixed axles so they don't pivot their wheels with curves but just power through against friction of wheel on rail. Shortening Wheelbase even a bit greatly reduces that friction.
All of these run well on standard SS roads except the bus (only vehcile where I have lengthened the wheelbase). It does not run on 16 inch curves at all (too much wheel friction) and doesn't like 21 inch curves very much - it runs best on custom country roads I've made with 27" dia. curves. The tractor-trailers (one shown without trailer) actually run the smoothest of all, partly because they have very short wheelbases (the rearmost axle on the 18-wheeler pivots to follow curves) and because they have pickup and a center roller on the trailer's axles, too.
Those vehicles shown in the picture below are some of the converted SS vehicles I've fitted with 1/43 die cast bodies. Someone asked about a taxi: Solido offers the 1950 Chevy (second row left) as a very nicely outfitted yellow cab - this particular die cast body is quite roomy and it is an easy conversion.
Key points I've learned.
1) Plastic bodies will not work: SS vehicles need the weight of die-cast bodies both to push their center contact springs down on the road and to assure their wheels stay within the rails to get good traction.
2) Most of these had the chassis shortened for a shorter wheelbase. Shortening the wheelbase even a small amount makes an SS vehcile run MUCH smoother around curves. SS vehciles have fixed axles so they don't pivot their wheels with curves but just power through against friction of wheel on rail. Shortening Wheelbase even a bit greatly reduces that friction.
All of these run well on standard SS roads except the bus (only vehcile where I have lengthened the wheelbase). It does not run on 16 inch curves at all (too much wheel friction) and doesn't like 21 inch curves very much - it runs best on custom country roads I've made with 27" dia. curves. The tractor-trailers (one shown without trailer) actually run the smoothest of all, partly because they have very short wheelbases (the rearmost axle on the 18-wheeler pivots to follow curves) and because they have pickup and a center roller on the trailer's axles, too.
Those are awesome. They look like a much better job than mine. I thought about doing a bus as well.
Which chassis do you use? I am thinking of picking up one of the vans to hack it up. I don't like the modern Chevy van look anyways so don't mind trashing the body.
What do you do for wheels? They look better than the standard ones I used.
Which chassis do you use? I am thinking of picking up one of the vans to hack it up. I don't like the modern Chevy van look anyways so don't mind trashing the body.
What do you do for wheels? They look better than the standard ones I used.
I've used all three chassis: which I call small wheels (the Model A era stakebed truck, some UPS vans), large wheels (panel vans), and rubber wheels (the school bus like thing). Small wheels (like you used for the ambulance) is the only one with wheels small enough for cars: I've done about two dozen. the large wheels works well for busses, big trucks, etc. Rubber wheels is best to bash for 18 wheelers and construction equipment. I use the stock wheels but paint the hub on the small wheels conversions, and leave the hub the plastic chrome on the businesses and 18 wheelers.
Very nice Lee Willis!
Lee - I am very impressed with what you have done. Have you taken any videos of any of these custom vehicles in operation? If not, could you?
Thanks for sharing your outstanding and innovative work with us.
Art
Thanks for sharing your outstanding and innovative work with us.
Art
Didn't Lionel state that in the passing of SS they were going to introduce something completely new and infinitely better than what they were doing with the Super Street products? Don't hold me to it, but it might have been at one of the York Vision demo's a few years ago or even at the TCA Museum. Anyone else recall this or know of the progress?
Lee,
You are the defacto authority on this subject. I was reviewing your conversion of the 54 Chrysler and wanted to know which body do you think is the easier to convert?
Thanks you again for sharing you knowledge on Superstreets.
Ted
You are the defacto authority on this subject. I was reviewing your conversion of the 54 Chrysler and wanted to know which body do you think is the easier to convert?
Thanks you again for sharing you knowledge on Superstreets.
Ted
Lee, any pictures of those vehicles with the bodies off or a how to? This is great stuff.
quote:Originally posted by John Newberger:
Didn't Lionel state that in the passing of SS they were going to introduce something completely new and infinitely better than what they were doing with the Super Street products? Don't hold me to it, but it might have been at one of the York Vision demo's a few years ago or even at the TCA Museum. Anyone else recall this or know of the progress?
YES! I heard that, too. Where is it! I hope they don't let us down. I would love them to bring out aline of 18 wheelers with sound and smoke. Oh that would be great.
"I was reviewing your conversion of the 54 Chrysler and wanted to know which body do you think is the easier to convert?"
the Chrysler was rather more difficult to convert. It is rather low and not full 1:43 but a bit smaller and it was a very tight fit. The '50 Chevy, or the '57 Chevy, are easier. Among the easiest was, surprsingly, the 54 Caddillac convertible. It has a very fast square trunk that fits over the gear box without any problems.
I will try to post pictures with the bodies off.
Here's you next project--put the airstream behind one of those big V-8s:
Painted wheels black, added whitewalls and hub cap to my Hearse:
Just bought 3 Ringling trucks--I plan on converting one to a taxi and one to a 40s Woody.
Just bought 3 Ringling trucks--I plan on converting one to a taxi and one to a 40s Woody.
What's your technique for shortening the chassis?
I doubt you had to shortern the chassis for the hearse - it looks pretty close to stock for the small wheel (model A truck type) chassis which looks to be which one of the four Ss chassis he used. There are a few other ocmbinations where you don't need to shorten, either. The short little school bus chassis makes for a pretty good tractor for atractor trailer: you can just mount a truck cab on it, etc.
However, when I do shorten them, I do the following: cut out space between the rectifier and the front axle - you have to leave enough plastic behind the front axle for the electrical copper connector but this still permits over 5/8 inch shortening (model A truck) or 7/16th (short school bus) chassis, those being the two extreme in wheelbase, long to short. I cut one slice right in front of the rectifier and then as much as I need forward to shorten and remove the section. With care you can do these cuts without distrubing the wires or any crtical structure. I then make side beams out of 3/16th inch square crosssection styrene plastic and glue them with Testors tube plastic cement to the back section and clamp. When hardened I then connect the two sections together by gluing the front. This holds but not super well, so when that hardens I use epoxy clay that you mix in your hand and smear it all over the beams and underneath, in a thin layer over the seam between the two sections, to strengthen everything. So far its worked more than two dozen times.
However, when I do shorten them, I do the following: cut out space between the rectifier and the front axle - you have to leave enough plastic behind the front axle for the electrical copper connector but this still permits over 5/8 inch shortening (model A truck) or 7/16th (short school bus) chassis, those being the two extreme in wheelbase, long to short. I cut one slice right in front of the rectifier and then as much as I need forward to shorten and remove the section. With care you can do these cuts without distrubing the wires or any crtical structure. I then make side beams out of 3/16th inch square crosssection styrene plastic and glue them with Testors tube plastic cement to the back section and clamp. When hardened I then connect the two sections together by gluing the front. This holds but not super well, so when that hardens I use epoxy clay that you mix in your hand and smear it all over the beams and underneath, in a thin layer over the seam between the two sections, to strengthen everything. So far its worked more than two dozen times.
