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When I first heard about using an American or Canadian dime to check the back to back gauge of S gauge wheels, I thought it was too much of a coincidence to be true, and it sort of was. After checking with the NMRA standards and then measuring a dime with my digital vernier calipers, it turns out the dime is actually about .0065” shy of the NMRA’s target back-to-back dimension for both scale and hi-rail wheelsets. So, if you want to use a dime as a check gauge, remember you have to have about 7 thousandths of an inch extra room for the dime to move back and forth between the wheel backs.

That being said, the dime test did show that the gauge on all of my Flyer wheelsets was considerably too tight according to the NMRA’s published standards. Though I haven’t actually measured them all yet, I suspect American Models may also be slightly out of gauge too, but not quite as tight as AF. Judging by how well they operate on the layout, I think the SHS wheelsets are probably pretty good, just as they came from the factory. I really miss SHS, all of their products were absolutely the best in any scale. Thanks Don & Mike!

Bill in FtL

Last edited by Bill Nielsen
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poniaj posted:

Bill,

Yup.  I use a dime, but make sure it's got the proverbial "hair's" width more.  Just make sure there's "wiggle room" and you're OK.  Sometimes the calibrated eyeball comes in handy!    Besides, a gauge that only costs 10¢ can't be all bad!

Hey Jerry,

As you know I use a scrap piece of ¾” plywood – 23/32”. For me the dime is hard to use. I find the plywood will ‘spread’ Flyer wheel sets and I can also do both wheel sets in the truck at the same time. Can’t comment on the cost, but the scrap is smaller than 3 X 3 so it is probably less the 10¢.  LOL  

Tom Stoltz in Maine

Using a scrap of 3/4” plywood (23/32” or .71875”) is wider than the target amount of .709” by almost 10 thousandths of an inch. If it works for you, that’s great, and it’s probably less costly than even the dime, but when does a “little bit wider” become “too wide”, especially when you are also running finer scale NMRA/NASG wheelsets on the same tracks?

In measuring some of my stock American Flyer cars, I’m finding their gauge seems to vary from .665” to .685”. Strangely, my Atlantic’s drivers were pretty close to the target gauge, but it’s lead trucks, tender, and trailing trucks were more like the freight car wheels. I haven’t checked everything yet, such as my Flyonel cars and my recently issued FlyerChief Berkshires and Northern. The possibility of regauging these locos is a thought I find uncomfortable.

I also haven’t actually checked out my S Helper cars and locos with my calipers, but since they have been operating flawlessly on my layout for several years, I’m working under the theory of “if it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it!” My stock classic Flyer cars were coming of the tracks on that layout so frequently that simply I had to do something about it. Up until recently, they had only been run on a couple of loops of SHS S-Trax during the holiday season, and they seemed to be “close enough” for that.

I still have some original AF tubular tracks and switches in storage that I have never used, perhaps someday I have to dig it out and give it a try, just out of curiosity, but I wouldn’t hold out any hopes of satisfactory operation of scale flanges on that track.

Bill in FtL

Last edited by Bill Nielsen

I use the dime also and it has aided me in identifying lots of problem wheel sets. I have S-helper and American models track. Many Gilbert Flyer cars would jump at the switches and sometimes derail. By checking the wheel spacing I have solved my derailment problems.  However some newer lionel cars have very deep flanges that hit the ties on S-helper track.  I'll probably just file / sand them smaller.

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