This is driving me nuts! Getting motor back into 2036 locomotive boiler!

If it came out it should go back in. But if all else fails drive the bar support out.

You need to unscrew or drive with a punch that rod that runs thru the boiler. That rod gets put back in once the motor is in place.

The bar has to be taken out.  Use a punch to knock it out.

You may notice it has been done before and it is easier to remove it the same way.

With the engine back in the shell.....place bar back in and a few taps from a hammer and it is back in.

A million thanks, TN, Joe, and SL! I used a fine punch and hammered it out on the first hit. Who'dathunk? I was afraid of fracturing the cast body, but your advice emboldened me to get the job done easily. Thank you all!

Any thoughts on how to tighten the reversing unit lever I loosened trying to get it in the wrong way? There is no screw. It looks riveted. Perhaps squeeze with  long nose pliers? Not much clearance with the coil there.

Any thoughts on how to tighten the reversing unit lever I loosened trying to get it in the wrong way? There is no screw. It looks riveted. Perhaps squeeze with  long nose pliers? Not much clearance with the coil there.

Use a horse shoe washer. (Or some other thin washer with a slot cut out to fit around the lever's mounting rivet)
Either:
Slip it between the fiberboard contact plate and the metal body of the e-unit
Slip it between the spring washer (Usually black metal with four slots) and the e-unit lever.

I find tightening the rivet to be pretty much impossible without breaking down the e-unit. And once I do that, the whole thing is taken apart, cleaned, and the pieces get run through a vibratory polisher (except the coil). Then reassembled with a fresh rivet for the switch handle.

Note: some folks move the contact end of the switch handle away from the fiber board and bend it a bit with a pair of pliers. That works, I did this myself many years ago. Then I decided that doing this made a permanent change that couldn't really be backed out later. Even straightened, the arm would always look like it had been bent.

A million thanks, TN, Joe, and SL! I used a fine punch and hammered it out on the first hit. Who'dathunk? I was afraid of fracturing the cast body, but your advice emboldened me to get the job done easily. Thank you all!

The cracks show up from time to time (rare!).
You can lessen the possibility by being certain to line up the grooves on that pin with the grooves already cut into the hole in the body when reassembling.

C W Burfle posted:

Any thoughts on how to tighten the reversing unit lever I loosened trying to get it in the wrong way? There is no screw. It looks riveted. Perhaps squeeze with  long nose pliers? Not much clearance with the coil there.

Use a horse shoe washer. (Or some other thin washer with a slot cut out to fit around the lever's mounting rivet)
Either:
Slip it between the fiberboard contact plate and the metal body of the e-unit
Slip it between the spring washer (Usually black metal with four slots) and the e-unit lever.

I find tightening the rivet to be pretty much impossible without breaking down the e-unit. And once I do that, the whole thing is taken apart, cleaned, and the pieces get run through a vibratory polisher (except the coil). Then reassembled with a fresh rivet for the switch handle.

Note: some folks move the contact end of the switch handle away from the fiber board and bend it a bit with a pair of pliers. That works, I did this myself many years ago. Then I decided that doing this made a permanent change that couldn't really be backed out later. Even straightened, the arm would always look like it had been bent.

Brilliant, C.W.!  I'd never have thought about the horse shoe washers. Improvise, adapt, and overcome!

Regards,