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I would like to start collecting track for a future empire.  I have a load of O gauge tubular and a few O22 switches.  I have seen some of the other types and brands of track but haven't delved into the pros and cons of them as yet.  

At the Edison sow a couple of weeks ago, I passed a vender that had what looked like Super O, but I know it was not because it was in three foot lengths.  I know alittle about fastrack and MTH's offering.  I was hoping to get more detailed info from some of you that actually use these or other brands.  

Cost will be a major factor in my decision.  As yet I don't have a plan or actual layout size.  I do know that it will comprise of two or three high speed main lines and then a freight line with switching capabilities.  

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IMO, the nicest 3-rail is Gargraves track and Ross turnouts for realism. When I bought Ross they required some soldering for electrical continuity, plus switch motors for automation. Gargraves have a nice selection of various diameter curves. I used cork roadbed which turned out pretty nice.

But if you get a little too lazy for all that work, Lionel's FasTrack switches with Command Control take no more than 30 seconds to program with no wires needed. It might take an extra 5 minutes to unscrew the wires attaching their automatic switch that is unnecessary with Command Control.

I think you are going to get more answers here than there are track systems and they will all like something different.

I think all the track these days is pretty good, they all have pros and cons and there will be a train item somewhere that does not like what ever track you have. If you have an LHS, I would go there and look at all the track they have and pick one you like and that also fits your budget. Think about your needs/wants/likes and what all is available with the track you pick. Some have a lot more available in curves and switches than others. Might even be a good idea to get a small test loop and see if you still like it. If you don't you can always sell it in the for sale forum and tray something else.

I did this when I picked my track system a few years ago. I went with Atlas, the pros were: it was solid nickel-silver rail, quiet, doesn't need frequent cleaning, I really liked it and there was a good selection of switches and curves. The cons: it is not inexpensive and has gone up since I started using it. I have had good luck with it, am still very satisfied with it and I would probably make the same choice all over again. I started out liking Fastrack, even bought and read a book about it. Then I saw some in action and heard how loud it was. That's when I started looking for something else.

Not saying you should pick Atlas just because I did, but you really should look around and pick what you like and meets your budget. I also like the Lionel super O track, but I don't know a lot about it or how easy or difficult it is to find.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

If I was doing a hi-rail build:

  • Outdoor -- Atlas Track with Atlas turnouts. Remove the turnout motors and replace them with something hardier; don't rely on the internal track wiring for electrical continuity.
  • Indoor -- Atlas Track w/Ross turnouts
  • Indoor on a budget -- Gargraves Track w/Ross turnouts
  • Indoor on a tighter budget -- Gargraves Track w/Gargraves turnouts (lay and inspect them carefully/regularly).
  • Indoor with a lower profile and willing to deal with some quirks (plenty of threads on this) -- MTH ScaleTrax (you can use Ross turnouts but you have to shim the MTH ScaleTrax and butt-join the rails since there aren't connectors to adapt the two brands.
  • Roll-your-own -- Atlas 2-rail track and turnouts with the guard rails moved in. Add a Code 70 rail for the center coated with NeoLube. Will handle modern most hi-rail equipment.

I run at the club (Hi-rail with Atlas and Gargraves track with Ross turnouts), so there's an increasing probability that my home layout will be a 2-rail switching layout.

Bottom line, though, is it's a balancing act between aesthetic preferences and budget.

There are tradeoffs with all the types. O gauge tubular is the cheapest (though switches are not exactly cheap), there is a ton of it out there, but also looks like toy train track. You can do a lot with O tubular, you can  add extra ties to it or even chuck the metal ties and glue/spike the track to wood ties...but would take a lot of work. 

Atlas makes nice track, but it isn't cheap, it is pretty realistic looking. Sometimes you can find it used as good prices, but it isn't that easy IME to go the used route. Atlas has had trouble with availability in recent years, seems like they are now routinely shipping, but could be an issue in the future. 

Likewise MTH scale trax is nice looking, if somewhat fragile from what I have seen of it, but it is expensive and can also be difficult to find. 

Gargraves to some isn't realistic enough (oversize ties, rail profile is tubular), but it is cheaper than the other brands, and combined with their own switches or Ross, it seems to be a very popular combination, just from seeing layouts in magazines and online a lot of people go this route. Ross offers a lot of switch combinations in both tinplate style or in more scale (ie the diverging route is angled, not curved) so you likely won't have any trouble finding it (it is made here, so you don't have the shipping drama you can have with stuff made overseas). 

Fastrack has its positives, can get it anywhere, not the most realistic of track but has built in roadbed. Not particularly cheap, also somewhat noisy, so that may be a drawback. 

Personally, when I get around to actually being able to build a layout, I suspect I'll go with gargraves and ross,  but in the end it will come down to a)your sense of esthetics ie which track actually looks better to your eyes and b)budget. Nice part about the hobby is unlike 40 years ago, when your choice was either tubular or gargraves, there is a choice. 

I agree with what RTR122 said, but my advice is to visit layouts using different brands. IMHO, looking at photos and just looking at track in an LHS doesn't tell you much more than how much they cost and what they look like. I wanted ScaleTrax and visited 2 layouts that use it. I even bough 10 pieces of FlexTrack and will use it at some point, perhaps on my 2nd level if I can find some O31 curves. Unfortunately, availability is an issue and very few carry it. I think there might as be some issues with some locomotives because of it's short rail height, but don't quote me.

I had settled on the more expensive Atlas that I saw at the McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park over in Scottsdale even though it also has had availability issues. I considered GarGraves, but thought it would be too loud because it's not solid rail. However, I recently visited a layout using GarGraves on a sandwich of plywood, Homasote and cork. It seemed every bit as quiet as the Atlas, so I've decided to use GarGraves and save some money. It's also more readily available and the "Made in America" moniker doesn't hurt.

My point is had I not visited the layouts though, I probably would have stayed with the Atlas and be spending considerably more money. I think AGHRMATT had the sequence right and #3/#4 seem to fit your situation.

Had to jump on eBay and get another Loco... *3985* 4-6-6-4, Challenger, UP, 6-11200 LionMaster - Legacy (2009) is on its' way! 

As cost is a major factor... I'll divulge my expenditures to give an idea at what one may spend... to live the dream...

I do not have a ton of money so I compromise... I have 300 sections of Super-O track and 6 pairs (12) #112 switches and all accompanying Bus Bars, Insulators, Pins etc.  I spent a smidgen over 900.00 (including tax & shipping) on track/switches/accessories.  As I am restricted to O-36... I attempt to scale (semi, almost, not quite, kinda, sorta scale) accordingly ...hence LionMaster which for me comes in at a good price point for Like New (seldom do I buy New) condition.  While most would shudder... I could not be happier with my Upgraded 11106 *746* NWJ, 18343 GG1 *2332*,  Hudson 18056 *5344*, Virginian FM (Celebration series) *2331* TMCC Locos I recently purchased as well as a handful of post war trains.  I bought these as I recently purchased the Lionel 14295 *990* Legacy Command System.

Additionally, I really like the appearance of the Super-O (that's just me... most don't)... and, it is *dead quiet*.

Now, throw in a ZW, a couple of 15" passenger sets (always 6 or 7 cars), several quality freight consists (I like MTH here), some *other goodies*, tools and I'm @ about 3,600.00... and, livin' the dream.

Dave's suggestions above are spot on... happy railroading!

 

 

 

 

     

If cost is a factor, then I would go with the tubular track.  The cost of the more realistic looking switches and track, stops me in my tracks (no joke).  It's a toy no matter how much you want to "model".  Try to get the nicest, shiniest (most shiny) track you can get.  Sometimes you can get some pretty good deals on nice track.  Avoid the older stuff from postwar cause it is usually harder to solder to and has a darker grey color to it, IMHO.  I like the older Lionel and Kline track that had 6 ties on 072 curves, 5 ties on 054 curves, 4 ties on 042 and 3 ties on the 031 curves.  Made them easy to spot at a glance.   Use the 40 inch straights whenever you can.  All of the straight track can easily be cut to length using a homemade 2x4 piece of wood with slots in it and a hacksaw.  Email me and I can show you some pics.  Curves generally have to be cut holding them in your hand.  Put it down over astroturf carpet and you have a sound deadening agent and automatic grass.  Get the cheapest astroturf carpet you can, cause the good stuff won't let the track sit down as good.  Solder the power wires under the track every four or five feet, drill a hole through the carpet and plywood to drop the wires down underneath and you are good to go.

Last edited by aussteve

I have recently made the switch from Fast Track to all Ross switches and a combination of Ross/Gargraves track and I am very happy with it.  Ross has a very large selection and they are of high quality, little noise, and very easy to cut/adjust.  Personally, the "made in the USA" part was an extra bonus to an already great product.

We used Ross switches and Gargraves track. Although the Gargraves has large ties and the unprototypical web below that fits into the ties allowing the track to be curved, you get away from all the curves being geometrically the same (a problem with sectional curved track). My son insisted that it would be better to have more prototypical curves if we curved the tracks ourselves, so that's what we did. I am pleased with the fair curves and with how the Gargraves track and Ross switches work together. 

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several folks here mentioned the over-size of Gargraves ties and tubular rails in general.  Obviously, you cannot get a shrink ray and scale them down.  However, you may ballast and do a great job with weathering and this will greatly assist in taking the focus away from the track!

The greatest compliment that I ever received about my track: Gargraves/Ross was from two Board Members of the Lionel Collector's Club of America.  Both of these gentlemen said to me, after viewing the layout, at separate moments: "I thought this was a two rail track after seeing video/photos."

My "phantom" blackened center rail "disappears" into the ties and ballast below; which also make the rail look smaller.  

NOTE:  THIS DOES NOT WORK IN SNOW SCENES...the rail may appear smaller but the center rail is much easier to see against white snow!  

If you want new and don't care about the look than Menard's track on sale. Just built layout using it that cost me $270 for the track and would have been right at$1000 with others. Be aware though that there track has some dead short problems that may or may not need fixed. I used Ross turnouts and could not be happier with them. When I can afford will replace track with Ross as I got a couple of pieces of it to make crossover and love the way it looks.

IMO when planning a layout there are top level personal expectations of functionality, realism and layout. For example, do you expect your trains to creep along effortlessly and/or run more than one train at a time ?  Are you hi-rail, tin plate or somewhere in-between ?  Track radius, switching, sidings, round house, yards, etc to fit the space need envisioning.  Are you running a railroad, entertaining the Grandkids or maybe point to point ?  Once you have an idea of what you would like to do, more practical considerations such as skill level, cost and time investment will help focus your track system selection.  In summary specification comes before material selection.

Model Structures posted:

Dan:

I would suggest buying the book Trackwork for Toy Trains - Peter H Riddle. It goes over all the O scale track manufactured so will give you valuable info in making your choice.

Joe

That is a good book. I don't think I mentioned it, but this book also helped me select a track system for my layout. I think it's well worth reading.

Dan Padova posted:

There is some good information in these posts.  Thanks to all who wrote.  If I didn't mention it, I will now.  i plan to run strictly conventional.  Most likely post-war stuff and anything produced after 1969 that is conventional.  

When we started the AGHR layout in 1996, everything was conventional. Now, everyone runs command, especially the "AGHR Kids" (command is all they've known); three of us run Kadees and scale wheels on rolling stock. My point is that what you end up running on the layout over time is often not what you planned on when you started, so build for the future when you might see that 3rd Rail Jawn Henry or that big Northern at a meet for a price you can't resist.

I am using Gargraves and Lionel tubular track with some Ross Custom switches. The newer Lionel switches(1992 & newer) don't last long with me before they burn out for some reason. I am a huge fan of tubular track because it can be cut to fit, file off the unsmooth areas and add track pins.

I have noticed some differences with Gargraves and Ross track in the curve diameters, Gargraves curves are a little larger in diameter then Ross curves; example Gargraves 042 curve is closer to 042.70 inches and Ross curve in 042 is closer to 42 inches. Not much difference but can give you a small headache when mixing track brands if looking to match the curves very closely.

I tried Lionel's Fastrack and got rid of it very quickly! Had electrical issues and not good for free lancing a layout besides being loud when a train passes over it. My local hobby shop owner told me the Lionel Fastrack switches have issues, I can't say because I never used a Fastrack switch.

Atlas track looks good but I have not used it. Have heard in the past (about  a year ago)there were issues with supply of Atlas track, not sure if that is still an issue.

Lee Fritz

If you stick with tubular, ross makes the switch to go with that,  very good quality.  Atlas is hard to beat for appearance.  I like the flex track but you have to work with cutting the lengths at time when you make into a curve.  Any nice dremel tool works good with a little practice.  Large thick metal cutoff wheel works for me.

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