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Since the ZDC-24 power supply isn't available yet and the Radio Shack 18-24 power supply can't be located with an "M" barrel on E-Bay, as all sellers indicate No Tips, what is a approved source of power that plugs into the TIU AUX port. I've read the forum's discussions and there are several recommendations, however; one example was an RS-24. Searching E-Bay found an RS-24, but the manufacturer on the forum wasn't specified. 

I'm helping set up a 16' X 32' layout with nearly 1,000' of track and I need a little assistance on what to power the TIU with until the new MTH device is available. I read that the MTH HO scale power supply was an approved alternative. Is that a good work around until the ZDC-24 becomes available?

By the way there are multiple listings in E-Bay for the old Radio Shack power supply but no tips.

Thanks

moke mike 

 

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I've found that even with PS/2 that powering the locomotive with DC enhances the reliability of the sound file loads.  Nowadays, I power them with DC on the bench for configuration.  FWIW, I power mine with a bench supply, I can monitor the precise current drawn.  Even when the locomotive starts and the smoke unit fires up, I have never exceeded 1.5 amps.  Obviously, I still agree with Barry, I don't want it running while loading, it's just sitting there making noise.  Besides, when the sound file completes, the engine starts up, so it's your alert that it's loaded.

Even if the engine is started up, it shuts down once the SF Load process starts.  It has been noted by MTH Service that using DC has resulted in less errors when loading sound files.  I use a HO DC power supply feeding fixed one using a fixed DC output.  I use the Bench loader though.  To load a sound file you only need the 7 pin plug installed for PS-2.   I normally use all the plugs though, so I can check all the outputs after sound file load.  G

I have been eyeing some bench top power supplies, but do not yet have one. That would be a nice addition though. All the wants seem to always outweigh the available funds buy a large margin, maybe someday. I only have one PS2 engine and it's been packed away since we moved almost 3 years ago, but I will certainly keep that in mind too. The rest of the fleet is all PS3.

gunrunnerjohn posted:
...

For $4.68 you can have the power supply with the proper barrel connector, eBay: 371165009256

Does the 2.5mm center pin (a.k.a. "N" barrel) securely fit in the TIU Aux Power jack?  The "M" barrel is 2.1mm.  My experience is they do make contact but kind of loosey-goosey (that's a technical term  ).

18v adapter

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  • 18v adapter

Out of all the electronic parts I see on the forum, many of which I end up ordering (it's a weakness...or would that be sickness?), the screw terminal barrel jacks are one of my favorites. I ordered some a couple of years ago and have used then quite a lot and given several sets to friends. Probably should order some more. Handier than a pocket on a shirt!

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I bought them on eBay.  You can buy a suitable power supply for a lot less than $8.

Here you go, eBay: 251998381314, 25 of them for $2.47 free shipping.

For $4.68 you can have the power supply with the proper barrel connector, eBay: 371165009256

I just received the power supply from China on July 15, 2016.  It appears the unit will power a TIU, however; it requires a special power cord for the 110V power.  The end of the power supply has two round male barrels, that would receive two female portions to slide over them.  The power supply has a special receptacle that has two round cutouts to allow the cord to plug into the power supply. Each hole is abut the diameter of a pencil. Any ideas where I might find such a power cord as without it there can't be a source of power from the 110V? I can't see using alligator clips as I'm not sure about polarity. 

mokemike

The aux in barrel measures the correct outside diameter of 5.5, however the length is about 1.1 mm. But comparing the Radio Shack M barrel, this power supply barrel is less than 1/32" shorter.

It fits snugly into the TIU and the unit label pn is PSA36-180 (PA).  AC INPUT 100-240V~0.5.   Output DC 18V _ ...2.0A.

2 1/2" wide, 4 1/4" high and 1" thick.

mokemike

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Bummer, I can't believe they didn't include the power cord.

Here's one for $1.77 shipped from a US seller: 322192620344

John, I can't find the e-bay listing by the number you used in your replay. ( 322192620344) The search comes up with no listing found.  I've clicked on the part number with my iPhone and it can't recognize the part number and instead try to call the number with the phone.  Could you please find a listing for the cord on e-bay and then send me a link for that specific listing as the e-bay listing number can't be found using the e-bay search method. Also include the part number of the cord in case the link doesn't work.

Thanks

mokemike

 

 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Don't know what happened there, the number is really: 322193747663, the description is:

snowman Power Lead WALL Cord Cable Figure 8 Epson Printers, ac adapters 2-prong

John, thanks. Found it by item description as the 12 digit number doesn't seem to work. Bought the last one for $1.77.  Several others for $4+ but many in China with a 3 week minimum ship time. This one is a US listing and should have by the end on this coming week.

mokemike

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, since he's only powering the internal electronics of the TIU with the ZW, perhaps the equipment on the track is safe.  However, I'd simply use a fast blow fuse for the power feed to all the TIU's, for three TIU's with let's say a combined total of six AIU boxes, I'd start with around 6-7 amps for the fuse.

About 2% of all readers will buy the fuse. About 99.% who don’t read OGR even know they need a fuse. Plus they don’t even know if the ZW is in phase.

moke mike

Well Mike, phasing applies to all transformers.  Let's not forget all the modern transformers that have been shipped with phasing issues.  If you're suggesting we should throw away all our old equipment because some reader won't know what they're doing, we'll have to agree to disagree.  

Greg asked the question, and I suspect he understands the need for circuit protection and phasing.  As far as the 99% that don't read OGR, I'm not targeting my response to them, as you say, they wouldn't read it anyway!

I was planning to use the NEW ZW-I which I understand has good circuit protection.   I am hearing that using one of those channels will work for the 3 TIUs correct.   A second question is around connecting common for the 12 bricks and the ZW-I.   What do I connect the Legacy base to for common?   Does it get the common from the TIU connection or do I also need to connect the legacy base to the common output of one the TIU channels.  For the ZW-I do I connect that common to the legacy base as well?  

Appreciate the help,

If you have the common for the Legacy connected directly to the outside track, it should go everywhere.  I'm assuming all the outside rails are common in the layout, that's a requirement for Legacy.  What is the ZW-I, I'm assuming we're talking about the ZW-L, right?

From the ZW-L manual, the "command base" connection is just the common side of the transformer.  If you connect your command base there, it's connected to the common of the of all the outputs.

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mokemike posted:

Take any ZW you have to an antique store. The red light for a short won’t activate to cut power until the transformer overheats. That should take about 25 seconds. Your equipment will be damaged after 1 second or less. Works great with post war though.

mike mike 

 

I've been powering my DCS/TMCC layout with a Postwar ZW. I have automotive 10 amp fast blow fuses (ATO type) between the TIU power ("hot") input and the ZW output. No issues. 

I disagree with Mokemike also.  They postwar ZW is great for running DCS, IF AND ONLY IF you have external fuses & breakers not exceeding 10 amps.  Also, the breaker does not not activate unless the transformer overheats; it is thermal type and open the circuit when a heater wire in the breaker overheats.  That said, the internal breaker isn't worth a hoot.  I can't afford fuses, so I use breakers.

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