TMCC Mogul problem.

If you place the tender on the tracks away from engine and apply power to you hear sounds? If so make sure when you programmed the engine you used feature code AUX1 74 after you set the engine ID.
Also make sure the switch under the tender is on Railsounds, not Signal Sounds to get all the sounds.

If still no change, remove the shell from the tender and make sure all the boards are seated.

Pete

Thanks PETE for your reply.  I did put just the tender on the tracks and it still has the steam sounds.  I replaced the engine and did a reset and used Eng 94 the aux1 then 74 set.  Nothing.  I then took the engine to my conventional layout placed it on the tracks and the whistle and bell worked using the controller buttons, but no chuff and back tender light did not go on.  Anything else to check?

And yes all the boards are seated.

If you get sounds with the tender alone on the tracks, it points to a problem in the engine. Since you get no sounds or lights when the tender is coupled to the engine, that means the serial data signal is being seen by the tender, otherwise you would hear sounds from the tender at power up.

Chuff is generated by a switch on the front driver axle but whistle, bell, crew, coupler are all generated from the R2LC and you already tried a few of those.

Make sure the drawbar sensors are lined up. May take more involved troubleshooting of the engine to determine the problem.

Maybe I missed it but if you are using a Cab2 are you in Cab1 or TMCC mode? Now see you are using TMCC  mode.

Pete

Hi PETE,

  With just the tender on the tracks at power up there are sounds coming out of just the tender.  When I couple the engine to it and power up there are still the sounds of steam effects coming out of the tender but can’t get anything else to work, whistle, bell, shut down etc.

I think the problem is in the engine but can’t think of anything else easy to check.

I have a few of these including the CN version but my test leads can’t reach your place from mine.

You can also verify which piece is the problem by taking another TMCC engine with wireless tether and swapping tenders. That will tell you for sure which one has the problem.

Pete

@Norton posted:

I think the problem is in the engine but can’t think of anything else easy to check.

I have a few of these including the CN version but my test leads can’t reach your place from mine.

You can also verify which piece is the problem by taking another TMCC engine with wireless tether and swapping tenders. That will tell you for sure which one has the problem.

Pete

LOL PETE!  I wish they could.  I will try the switch with another tender.  I ll let you know.

PETE,

  I just swapped tenders and yes the same thing happened, sounds only from the tender.  Still no whistle, bell, lights, etc. or controls from the remote.  If there is anything else please let me know.  Thanks again for your time.

OK, Back to a tender issue. Your other tender likely has the same three boards. AD20 IR receiver, RS4 or 5 board, Audio Power board. Least likely is the power board. More likely the AD20 or RS board. You can swap those if you want.

Pete

@laz1957 posted:

PETE,

  I just swapped tenders and yes the same thing happened, sounds only from the tender.  Still no whistle, bell, lights, etc. or controls from the remote.  If there is anything else please let me know.  Thanks again for your time.

That means that you loco is not communicating with the tender. The problem is in the loco not the tender and it is likely the IR  board in the loco that has failed or a wire has come loose.

PETE, yes I already changed those boards.

I will open up the engine again and check all connectors tomorrow.  Thanks again for all the advice.

I’ll let you know what I find.  Thanks again.

@iguanaman3 posted:

That means that you loco is not communicating with the tender. The problem is in the loco not the tender and it is likely the IR  board in the loco that has failed or a wire has come loose.

Might be. I assumed the tender referred to was still the Mogul tender. If it was the replacement tender, then yes its an engine problem.

Pete

There still seems to be some confusion as to if it's the tender or the locomotive.  If you have another locomotive with the IR link, it should be easy to positively identify which piece is the problem.

If the working locomotive also functions with the suspect tender, then it's the suspect locomotive that has the issue.  If the working locomotive can't control the suspect tender, then it's the tender.

There is no IR board in the locomotive, it's just a 3-wire IR transmitter, and it's still available from Lionel parts.

Hi GUYZ,

  Yes I did switch a engine with the suspected tender and it works the whistle, bell etc.  So it must be the IR, coming out of the Mogul.  There are three wires for the IR, can I just clip the old IR and solder to the existing wires?  

Yep, just make sure they go to the same places on the new sensor, the colors are not always consistent.

One question GUNS, Did you ever replace a IR?  How common does this happen.  This is a first for me.

Truthfully, I have only replaced a couple over the years, it's not really that common a failure.  Do one simple test.  Take a cell phone or digital camera and point it at the IR drawbar on the locomotive when it's powered up.  If you see a purple glow in the viewfinder out of the LED, it's not broken.

One thing George. If the tender does not start making sounds when coupled to the engine at power up, that means the serial data signal is there. If the photo transistor was not working the tender would behave like it was alone on the tracks and act like it would in conventional.

Pete

Thanks GUYZ a for the info.  I have placed order with Lionel yesterday and awaiting the replacement IR from Lionel.

JOHN, I will try the cell phone camera to see.

JOHN, no purple light on the IR when in view finder. So the IR is broke.  Thanks again.

It still could be something like a bad connection, but with no light, it's certainly in that area.

Hi GUYZ,

  Here is the update on the Mogul problem.  I received the new IR from Lionel and yesterday clipped the old one off, resoldered the new one to it.  Heat shrink the splice, put it back together and everything works as it should.  These Moguls don’t have a lot of room inside the boiler. Thanks again GUYZ for helping me get this working again.

Glad its working again Laz. Not a common problem but these do have transistor and a few passive components on the board that holds the LED unlike the two wire versions which is simply an LED. Might have been a bad solder joint that caused it to fail.

Pete

Interesting, while it was obvious it was in that area, I truthfully half expected the IR LED not to be the fix.   Glad to hear it's back up and running.

Using cell phone or digital camera to check for an IR signal is a good idea. I have also used it to check TV remotes. I was demonstrating this to my granddaughters and it didn't work with there new iphones but did work with my phone. I think that new phones are not sensitive to IR.

@David Nissen posted:

Using cell phone or digital camera to check for an IR signal is a good idea. I have also used it to check TV remotes. I was demonstrating this to my granddaughters and it didn't work with there new iphones but did work with my phone. I think that new phones are not sensitive to IR.

I think there was a flap about the iPhone seeing through clothes because of the IR sensitivity, so I believe there was a move to filter IR on the iPhone.  Apparently, Samsung hasn't done that yet as I can still use it to see if the IR transmitter is active.