TMCC System Issues

Possible, but you do need to check crystals to make sure same freq.  Lionel did have another freq available and maybe it is different and that is why sys 1 and 2 can't work with each other. G

First check, would be the small touch pads under each button. They can be cleaned with a cotton cloth.  Aux1 gets a lot of use.  IMO.  I have two remotes, the older one has key issues.  Antenna is another point of abuse.  I have done some soldering on the broken antenna pieces. 

G,

How do I check the crystals? What am I looking for? Do you have a picture or 2?

Mike,

I would agree, but since turning the knob produces no red flickering, I don't think the pads are the issue.  The antenna could be an answer, especially if the connection is soldered. A cold joint that has finally failed would explain everything.

Chris

LVHR

The command base has a crystal in the side, it has a small cover over it that has a frequency on it.  However, if someone changed the crystal, that frequency may be incorrect.

The CAB1 crystal is in the battery box at the top, you can see it peeking out beside the battery.

Here's the text on the "standard" frequencies from Dale's TrainFacts site, he's conveniently typed all this in so I don't have to.

From TrainFacts Technical Descriptions.

The exact frequency is controlled by selecting a pair of crystals for the CAB-1 and Base. The crystal in the CAB-1 is set to a frequency that is 455 KHz higher than the crystal in the Base. The normal frequency pair is 27.255 MHz (Channel 6) in the CAB-1, and 26.800 MHz in the Base. The reason for the 455 KHz stagger will be described later. (Note that the plastic holders for the crystals both say “27.255 MHz” even though the receiver crystal is really 26.800 MHz. The actual frequency is printed on the shell of the crystal.)

Well G and John, you have both hit the nail on the head. As you can see in the pics below, I have 2 different frequencies. I guess I got lucky all this time, because Sys1 is what I’ve been using with the club, and all the remotes the guys brought have worked! Go figure.

But unfortunately this gets me no further with trouble shooting the problem. What do I look at next?

Chris

LVHR

Swap crystals in the CAB-1.  IF the original cab-1 can now communicate and operate your second good Base you know the CAB-1 is good and the 1st cab one is bad.  If not working; does the second CAB-1 operate the first command Base.  If so the first Base is bad.  G

G, good point! I should have thought of that. Anyway, I went to try it, and found that Murphy’s Law has not deserted me. I put both systems up, side by side, both powered. Did not swap any components.  Now both systems are functional! Go figure! No trouble shooting until Sys1 acts up again.

Chris

LVHR

You might want to use a ring terminal on the output of the TMCC command base for the wire that goes to the track. I found that the aluminum post on the TMCC command base often allows the wire to work loose. I solved this problem by crimping and soldering a ring terminal to a wire. Then if the aluminum nut works loose, the ring terminal still holds it in place.  The battery connectors were not very good in the original CAB-1's and you would have to bend them after a while to make good contact with the batteries. Lionel did change the metal used for the battery tabs in later CAB-1's. If you get the red LED flashing on the CAB-1 you know it is sending. Watch the red LED on the command base, it will flash when its receiving. I've found this is a good way to tell if the units are working.

Pennsyturbine,

I'm familiar with the battery contact issue in the CAB-1s. And I have been watching the red light flashing. The lack of the red light flashing along with the lack of  engine control is what led me down this path.

Chris

LVHR

I picked up a Weaver 2-8-0 about two years ago. The add said it was two-rail and worked with Lionel TMCC. Apparently this engine dates back to the ninties. I quickly discovered it IS two AC When I put it on my two rail DC layout it just hummed. I called my Hobby dealer and he told me about TMCC. Iwas able to operate the engine on my loop layout because the rails are inculated form eachother and have no switches. The locomotive work beautifully as long as I use O scale cars with insulated wheelsets. I have been told these locomotives cab be rewired to work on DC but that would require the drivers be insulated. Right now-it is a white elephant. I would like to sell to someone who still uses TMCC from that era or has the skill to rewire it.

Morning LehighLine,

Right after Thanksgiving, our group, "The Raritan Valley Hi-Railers" did the Thanksgiving wknd. show at Raritan Center in Edison N.J. At one point we had an experience similiar to yours. Green power light is on, but no red flickering light showing communication from Cab-1 to Cab-1 base. It took awhile to figure out what the problem was, and it finally reared it's ugly head. The crystal in the command base was sticking out just far enough for it to stop receiving the handhelds signals. Check yours in the command base!

    Steam Forever

         John

Coordinator: Raritan Valley Hi-Railers

Member: N.J. Hi-Railers