Track Feeder Wire Gauge

Some may say 16 ga for the run I would prefer 14ga, with 18 ga  drops.  With high rail I Dremel rough the tinplate & solder 14 direct to the rail.

With scale rail like to drill through the tie, make a spike head out of 16 or 18 ga solid wire end,  solder on then paint.

If you follow TOM TEE's advice you will be more than fine. The most current your setup will draw is around 3A so there will not be enough voltage drop in the feeder wires for your 283 to slow down. The bigger concern will be resistance in the track joints, depending on the track system you use and whether or not you solder a jumper around all the track joints. Track switches can also be a source of voltage drop depending on brand. Gilbert turnouts have the highest current carrying capacity in the internal wiring but they must be taken apart to clean and service them prior to use. Any other brand, wire around them, do not rely on the internal connections.

I use 14 gauge to the track and 14 gauge from the transformer. It really seems to work well. Never a problem.

Dave

Thanks everyone. 

I removed all the O-Gauge track today and rough-laid all the Flyer.  It looks like things might line up nicely.  I also broke out my huge,  1940's Tin Shop soldering iron, sanded a test piece of track clean, fluxed it, and soldered a piece of 16 gauge stranded wire that I had.  The solder flowed onto the track and wire nicely, so it looks like that will work well also.  I will pick up wire tomorrow.  

You all identified my childhood train for me here.  Thank you again! 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...127#4873407539659712

It will be on the elevated level on here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHov3v5QlkU&t=3s

Thanks again.

Rick

Without fail, no matter the location, I run a feeder to the track on each leg of all turnouts no matter how close together they are.  All it takes is one pass through electrical connection within the body of the turnout to fail down the road.

Think max load with derailment short.