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I am ready to purchase wire for my layout, and am curious about Phone Cables.
I found some 22 awg 4 conductor phone cable (Red Black Yellow Green) at dig-key, but it is solid conductor.
I am using Ross Switches with DZ1000 machines.
runs are all well under 10ft long.

1. Is 22 awg large enough for all switch wiring,
1. Is all phone cable solid or is some stranded?
2. In these sizes is solid vs stranded as big of an issue?

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#22 is overkill for the DZ-1000 and short runs!   That little tiny motor draws milliamps.  I used Ethernet CAT5e cable for all my runs to the DZ-2500 switch machines.  All the runs are home runs back to my main power panel.

With the Cat 5: Do you separate the twisted pares into the 8 wires?
Or do you double them up?

So 26 awg would do fine then as well. correct?
I find a lot of 26 awg phone line.

I like having the Yellow Green and Red wires, and the black will just go along for the ride.
Black only runs to the controller.
Red goes out to the switch machine.

Having one small cable going out to each switch will be a lot cleaner that three separate wires.

I ran all eight wires to the punchdown blocks, and then just used the four I needed for the switches.  I have lots of spare wires running from every switch position.



As I suspected.
If I use the phone wire I will only have the one extra wire.

What is best for power to track positions?
Some say that they use speaker wire.

I am considering this 14 awg version:
https://www.amazon.com/GearIT-...2094767296&psc=1

Last edited by RWL

https://www.showmecables.com/8...WEAQYAyABEgJRhPD_BwE

That product is called telephone cord.  It does not have wire in it.  It is composed of, in this case, four separate runs of copper tinsel, wrapped in a helix around a non-conducting center fiber.  It has a very high resistance per linear unit.  It is not designed for any use other than telephone cords.  There is no industry-standard (read: reliable) method of terminating it other than to put 4p4c plugs on it and plug those into jacks.

I suspect that is no multi-conductor 26-gauge jacketed wire available these days, except for within specialized miniature electronic devices.  Western Electric "D station wire" (22-4 w/jacket) was made in that size for decades, until in the late 1980's the bean counters at AT&T decided to issue 24-gauge. It failed in the field, almost as quickly as it was installed.  Wrapping it around a terminal screw was as delicate as neurosurgery. The workers revolted. It was nick-named "angel hair." Mother recalled it, to be melted down and repurposed, went back to 22 gauge, and said she was sorry.

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom
@RWL posted:

I am considering this 14 awg version:
https://www.amazon.com/GearIT-...2094767296&psc=1

You don't want that, it's CCA (copper coated aluminum), you want all copper wire.  Try Monoprice for paired speaker wire, it's all copper and comes in a few different gauges, 14 is one they carry, good wire.  Many here use THHN, available from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. available by the foot or in spools of different lengths.

Last edited by rtr12
@Bruce Brown posted:

When TrainWorx showed us their under-table wiring scheme, it looked to me that they primarily used flat telephone wire cords. (Not the round ones that go to a handset.) These cords can be 4- or 6-wire, typically 26 AWG. If I'm wrong, I'm sure they will chime in.

The flat ones are what I was looking at, and I saw 26 and 22 gauge.
For use on the track switch machines, of course.

@rtr12 posted:

You don't want that, it's CCA (copper coated aluminum), you want all copper wire.  Try Monoprice for paired speaker wire, it's all copper and comes in a few different gauges, 14 is one they carry, good wire.  Many here use THHN, available from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. available by the foot or in spools of different lengths.

Yes, I see the CCA on the spool.
I know that CDA exists, I just didn't see it.
Thanks for drawing my attention to it.

My Atlas Switch wiring was done with 18ga solid thermostat wire.  With the Atlas 6924 relay boards, (8 conductor) 18 ga solid works well without any terminal connectors, a clockwise wrap around the screw, or fit in some of the rather small terminals provided with model railroad material. (2) Conductor was also used.

Last edited by Mike CT

https://i.pinimg.com/originals...d06d6422188785fb.jpg

Here's some 26-gauge telephone cable that will provide enough conductors for any foreseeable future railroad needs.  I think it's 2400 pairs.  I am available to install and splice it for you.

Or you can splice it yourself: the color code is "Bell Operators Give Best Service / Why Run Backwards, You'll Vomit"

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom

https://i.pinimg.com/originals...d06d6422188785fb.jpg

Here's some 26-gauge telephone cable that will provide enough conductors for any foreseeable future railroad needs.  I think it's 2400 pairs.  I am available to install and splice it for you.

Or you can splice it yourself: the color code is "Bell Operators Give Best Service / Why Run Backwards, You'll Vomit"

Everybody wants to be a comedian!!!!
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!

UPDATED: Different cables selected.

OK, I believe that I have settled on the wire for both Power and switches

Power Wiring: Monoprice 14 AWG Speaker Wire (Red, Black) White Outer Jacket
200 ft - $36.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...PDKIKX0DER&psc=1

D1000 Switch Wiring: Monoprice - 22 AWG 4 conductor Phone Cable (Red, Black, White, Green) Black Outer Jacket
500 ft - $53.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...P87GWKFZSB&psc=1

These are pure copper, and Black Colored cable for switches, with White Colored cable for power, making them much easier to differentiate, when running wire, and when doing maintenance.

Any comments on this, other than that the phone cable might be a bit of overkill?
They are both from Amazon, and the prices are really good.

Last edited by RWL
@Mike CT posted:

So I should go buy 3 or 4 more rolls of wire, when the overkill stuff, that I own, will work just fine.  Sound like stupid advice, if you ask me, but then it was free advice.   IMO   Mike CT.

Funny, you apparently are suffering from reading comprehension issues.  Look at what I said again.   We were discussing the DZ-1000 wiring for someone else, not commenting on your wiring.  In addition, if you read what I wrote, I allowed the fact that the Atlas switch machines actually draw more current, and didn't advise you at all on your wire size.  Save your "Sound like stupid advice" comments for someone else.

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