Traction tires

I have used CA glue for mine Ray.

Personally, I don't try to glue the tires on, that just makes it a mess when you have to replace them.

I agree with John, slide them on and go

 

Ray, these folks say they slide theirs on with no adhesive, but my recollection is that these pullmore replacements from Port Lines had to be glued on the drivers just like the originals. In fact I am pretty sure Doug's recommendation was to glue them which is why I used the CA.

I'm surprised that AF glues the tires on, but I will bow to experience.  That's never been recommended by any O-gauge maker that I'm aware of.

This is a Gilbert era locomotive from the mid 50's. The process is definitely different.

 

From Portlines clinic on wheel repair:

• Replacement Pullmor bands, standard steam (adhere with superglue)

FlyerRich posted:

From Portlines clinic on wheel repair:

• Replacement Pullmor bands, standard steam (adhere with superglue)

I was pretty certain I read that somewhere.  Thanks Rich.

 

OK, Thank you all for the replies, super glue it is. Would you recommend the standard 10 second set or the slower setting super glue?

Ray

I have super glued some of the newer ones on and I learned a couple of things..

It can be messy if you aren't careful and I have found that the chemicals in the glue tend to make the tires harden and dry out quicker and become brittle,  I now use a rubber based cement like Goo put on with a tooth pick, Let them dry and enjoy...

Marty

Rayin"S" posted:

OK, Thank you all for the replies, super glue it is. Would you recommend the standard 10 second set or the slower setting super glue?

Ray

I have only done it 4 times, but mine seem to be doing OK with the std. super glue.  However, I like the idea that Marty posted because they are a bit hard with CA.

Martin, How long do you allow for the glue to dry? Ray

A lot of that depends on heat and humidy,  Maybe an hour or so, then you can run it, but I wouldn't put much of a load behind it right away...

Marty

Good morning folks,

Happy camper here, Marty, I had to hunt a little to find the Goo glue, Labor Day some stores were closed, but did find it at the Home Depot under the name Boots and Gloves. I tried applying the tires with wheels on the chassis but ended up pulling the wheels. That turned out to be a good thing because the engine had a bad drive axle which I replaced, loose spline for the drive gear. Anyway got the wheels cleaned up with acetone and cemented on new traction tires and now all is well. Test ran with new tires and the bump and run was gone, now runs very smooth. Thank you again to all who replied, my preference now will be the Goo, gives a little more time than the super glue.

Ray

Calling the pull-mor tires "Traction Vands" confuses a lot of folks, as they aren't Traction Bands as used on modern production (or even late ACG production with plastic drivers). The Pull-Mor tires were vulcanized to the metal tire and were not designed to be "user serviceable". If you don't glue them on, they can just roll off the rim, as there is no "groove" for them to set in. One also has to be careful to clean off all the old vulcanized rubber, or the surface will be irregular, leading to a "lumpy" tire afterwards.

I use WALTHERS Goo  found at most hobby shops...

Marty

traindavid posted:

Calling the pull-mor tires "Traction Vands" confuses a lot of folks, as they aren't Traction Bands as used on modern production (or even late ACG production with plastic drivers). The Pull-Mor tires were vulcanized to the metal tire and were not designed to be "user serviceable". If you don't glue them on, they can just roll off the rim, as there is no "groove" for them to set in. One also has to be careful to clean off all the old vulcanized rubber, or the surface will be irregular, leading to a "lumpy" tire afterwards.

Ah ha!  That makes more sense to me, I was surprised they'd recommend gluing traction tires on.

I confess to using wrong terminology, Pullmore bands is the proper name, sorry for any confusion I caused.

Ray

Ray, I doubt you're the source of the confusion--the change in technology from the 1950s to present is the primary cause. Modern day folks assume a traction surface to be a ring of material fitted into a groove on a tire. Few folks envision a vulcanized wheel.

  Both Goos are contact cements. I am famimiliar with the Goo brand, a silicone, but not the Walthers and always wondered how similar they might be. Can anyone compare them? 

.....and not a single mention of "Frog Snot". Curious if it was used in S is all.

Recalling the whitewall being the wheel insulation on mine, I assumed nothing, lol. Gilbert is another world at times. 

If I recall right,  only half the tred width has rubberrubber on it too (the outer half.)

Im not stuttering as I type, google has had another " grand" update that broke everything for me again......it was 100% right for a week, now crap again.

ADRIATIC,

You raise two questions, Bullfrog snot, is it used in S? I would have to answer in the affirmative on this, although I do not know how widely used, we in Badgerland have at least one member using it with good results. The second point is the Pullmore bands, these are the full width of the tread on the steam engine wheels. I have one of the later Baldwin diesels Gilbert made the T&P  #812 it has the more modern groove and "Traction tire", about 8/10 of the tread width.

Ray

The Vulcanized Pull-more tires from 1954-1956 were full-width, with only the metal flange exposed in both the steamers and diesels. In the diesels, the rubber actually covered the end of the wheel. On the steamers, the vulcanization was only on the wheel tire; because of the two rail power source, a steamer drive wheel was actually 3 parts, wheel center, insulator (the white band) and the wheel tire--just like on a real locomotive. As the insulator plastic ages, it shrinks, leading to loose tires, causing all sorts of problems, which I won't go into here. The vulcanized rubber also eventually discolors the white insulator. When ACG changed to plastic drive wheels, they also changed to separate traction bands that fit in a groove in the wheel. The diesels also were "upgraded" to this less expensive system; which continues in use today by Big L and the other manufacturers.