Transformer to power accessories

Lionel's CW80 transformer will run both a train and power accessories as well. If you have a lot of accessories, try Lionel's GW180, which is basically a CW80 with an external 180W Powerhouse attached to it. You would have 10 Amps of power for all your accessories, as well as a few trains. MTH has their Z1000 brick/throttle set which has a 14V accessory output, as well as an 18V track output.

I am not aware of any change in electrical codes that would apply to a toy train transformer.

Code changes have recently required that GFCI receptacles be installed within reach of plumbing fixtures, and more recently, the code now requires arc-fault receptacles in every room except the bathroom and those serving safety-critical devices such as sump pumps and some alarm systems.  But none of these changes have anything to do with the device/appliance (transformer) that is plugged in. They have to do with the wiring in the building.

A well-maintained Lionel 1033 (or TW or LW) with a new line cord is perfect for the application, and perfectly safe as well.

I would recommend a transformer with more than one variable throttle. I use a Type V, which has four. Optimum voltage is different for different accessories; i.e. the drum loader runs best at about 8 volts, the milk car at 12, bubbling water tower at 14.

I agree with much of the sentiment shared here. A competently serviced classic transformer with multiple variable outputs is going to be safe and the best bang for ones buck.

I have a couple of the 1033 transformers. Other than replacing the power cord what should I look as far as service ?  Do these has built in circuit protection?

The 1033, like most transformers, does have an internal breaker engineered and sized to protect the transformer, not the downstream equipment. Best practices for any transformer of any era for any layout is to strategically use external over current and over voltage protections. For over current, the recommendation (for conventional control environments as well as command environments) are the AirPax breakers that trip instantly. These are used downstream of the transformer and sized to the expected branch circuit load. Adding some 1.5KE36CA TVS Diodes will take care of any voltage spike protections. There is some discussion further: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...y=157829273737613486 and feel free to ask any further qualifying questions right back here and the great forum members here will get you well on your way.

I have multiple Lionel 1033 Transformers (5).

Can I use these to light my accessories only like crossing signals, block signals,light towers.

No trains.

Yes.

I've repurposed a few leftover small, single-train transformers, originally acquired with boxed sets, to powering accessories on the layout, and to provide test-bed power at need for accessories and rolling stock. Most do not have separate "accessory" taps, so the built-in throttle provides a flexible AC output.

I've also found that if you need diverse voltages, you can power multiple inexpensive buck converters from a single transformer, each of which can be set to output the voltage needed to match a range of accessories (assuming DC output will meet your needs).

Let me ask one silly question, as I am just starting down the road of learning electronics...

A Lionel system runs on an AC power source.  If I want to install one of those TVS Diodes in my TMCC engine, does it matter how I orient the anode/cathode (the way it matters in a DC system)?

Thanks in advance!

@Homey B posted:

Let me ask one silly question, as I am just starting down the road of learning electronics...

A Lionel system runs on an AC power source.  If I want to install one of those TVS Diodes in my TMCC engine, does it matter how I orient the anode/cathode (the way it matters in a DC system)?

Well, as I understand it, no . . . but you really need one in *each direction* to do the job right.

Again, as I understand it, the TVS diode resists flow through it until it hits its rated voltage, and thus it will only pass current through if the voltage 'spikes' above that level, and will thus effectively prevent voltage spikes from wreaking havoc. However, that protection only works on one side of the AC wave, so you need an inverted TVS diode to protect from spikes in the other direction. There are bidirectional TVS diodes available for AC circuits that, I believe, are effectively just two inverted diodes in one package, but it is my understanding that you can get the same protection with two TVS diodes in parallel, wired with reverse polarity.

[I'm fairly new to the weird world of specialty diodes, so I'm sure my terminology is not precise and my understanding may be deficient, so be sure to double check what I've said!]

@Homey B posted:

Let me ask one silly question, as I am just starting down the road of learning electronics...

A Lionel system runs on an AC power source.  If I want to install one of those TVS Diodes in my TMCC engine, does it matter how I orient the anode/cathode (the way it matters in a DC system)?

Thanks in advance!

The "CA" a the end in this product code series, is what specifies bi-directional "1.5KE36CA TVS Diodes"

So when you install these "diode" TVS devices- there is no stripe marking one end of the "diode" because they are not polarized.

Example in a TIU- again, notice no white band or stripe at one end of the TVS device.

https://www.mouser.com/Product...Isn9OwBoCREMQAvD_BwE

@Steve Tyler posted:

Well, as I understand it, no . . . but you really need one in *each direction* to do the job right.

Again, as I understand it, the TVS diode resists flow through it until it hits its rated voltage, and thus it will only pass current through if the voltage 'spikes' above that level, and will thus effectively prevent voltage spikes from wreaking havoc. However, that protection only works on one side of the AC wave, so you need an inverted TVS diode to protect from spikes in the other direction. There are bidirectional TVS diodes available for AC circuits that, I believe, are effectively just two inverted diodes in one package, but it is my understanding that you can get the same protection with two TVS diodes in parallel, wired with reverse polarity.

Again, just buy the bi-directional "CA" device. At 63 cents each for the correct bi-directional device, it just doesn't make sense to use 2 of the directional devices that are not any cheaper (67 cents each times 2).

straight from the data sheet

I'm mid process (waiting on parts) of trying to repair just such a mistake (buying the wrong TVS- a uni-directional one "A") on a TIU that seriously damaged it.

A Reconditioned Lionel Type Z transformer.

I've got a question.  What is your opinion on using a GW 180 for my accessory power supply.  The reason I'm interested is it's got plenty of power,  one variable output port and one 18 volt track port I can hopefully split into two separate voltages.  If this would work, I should have enough different voltage outlets available to keep my accessories happy.                              What do you suggest?  BTW,  I have in house a ZWL for track, and a CW80 for switches.

Thanks,

Tommy

@thebeeman posted:

What is your opinion on using a GW 180 for my accessory power supply.

A very expensive option with only two variable outputs.  The Z type, or 2, 3, or 4 of them would be cheaper, and give you up to 16 outputs and up to more than 5 times the power output.

My accessory transformer is a 12 vac, 40 watt transformer, with some secondary wire removed to make it 14. 5 volts, to more quickly intermittently operate 31 Marx 1590 track switches (without light bulbs on switches or controllers).  It also operates some constant voltage accessories.  All of these are intermittent uses so a large watt transformer is not needed.   For accessories that require variable voltage I use track voltage controlled by my three train Lionel LW transformers.  It is a simple setup.

Charlie

Like many hobbyists, I used transformers from surplus inventory I had on hand: a MTH Z1000 with a 14v AC output for action accessories and track turnouts (switches).  I used a Lionel 1033 pre-set to 12v AC for lighted buildings.

I wired-up a Lionel 180 watt "brick" as track power while operating locos with TMCC and/or a Lionel PowerMaster for running conventional locos occasionally. I installed a MTH Z1000 as track power while operating trains with DCS.  A low tech "knife switch" selects  the transformer connected as track power as is appropriate. I also installed a Lionel "trackside cabinet" device that includes an inline circuit breaker inside.

With this wiring plan,  I can't run Lionel TMCC locos and MTH DCS locos at the same time on my modest-size 15x19-feet L-shaped layout. But i don't want or need to get that complicated during operating sessions.

In a break from tradition, I wired a PC power supply for DC track power on the upper level for three short trolley lines. The output of that power supply goes to through three buck convertors for individual voltage control of the three separate lines.

Another Lionel 1033 is available at my test bench for use with locos and operating cars. I also have many (35 at last count) Dept 56 lighted buildings from the North Pole Village series in place on the upper level of the layout. I use the DEPT 56 low voltage power strips for them, with matching low voltage bulbs inside the buildings.

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

I have a refurbished Z and a refurbished ZW…….each has 4 independent circuits. I picked the ZW because it was my original transformer from 1958.

One line for lights.

One line for switches.

Two different voltages for accessories.

My ZWL is for track power.

I use the same configuration as Peter... ZW-L for track power (mains & yard) ZW for switch motors (tortoise), signals and accessories.  I also have two Zs at the ready for additional accessories if ever needed.

On the main layout I use all four ZW throttles for the four track loops (two of which can each run two engines or trolleys conventionally, using electromechanical block control, for a theoretical total of six consists running on the four loops), with one small AC transformer and a handful of specialty plug and play power supplies, repurposed wall warts, powered USB hubs, and buck converters to power everything else. Definitely not something you'd design up front, but it just evolved that way over time, and it works, so . . . 🤞😏

By contrast, the separate test layout is powered by whatever small transformer(s) are available, sometimes two if separate accessory power is needed.

Power for Accessories, Fastrack Remote Switches, and Uncoupling Track Sections I use an old Scott's Odds and Ends Multiple Voltage Outputs with adjustable AC-AC Buck Converters where needed for AC Power and a old PC ATX Power Supply with adjustable DC-DC Buck Converters where needed for DC Power.

I use 2 MTH Z-1000 Transformers for my two independent tracks power.

I bought 4 200W power supplies on Amazon for $25 each. It converts to 12 VDC. Each one supplies power to one of my 4 districts (buildings/street lights). I added inline 5 amp blade fuses.

Anything that requires 14V gets it from the Z-4000.