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I'm going to be running Marx 027, mostly tin and cast metal with some plastic.  It has been about sixty years since I've had a three rail lash up, and am just getting past the gathering stage.

I have acquired both Lionel RW and ZW transformers and an MRC Throttle pack rectifier.

I have several issues to deal with. Like, as an example, I don't have so much as an inch of insulated wire in my entire shop.  What do I want to use?  I have a whole sack of the clip-on track connectors that look unused

I will eventually be running six to eight trains on my layout, but to get rolling I figure I can run three with the two transformers I just got.  Am I right in this?

I think the MRC unit is DC (not sure) but I may be able to use it for lights and accessories that are not connected to the tracks in any way.  Again, am I right?

I'm not an electrician, but am pretty confident that I can replace light bulbs.  Beyond that I'm in the dark (The pun is intended....and true.)

Next to the last issue (for now) is I also picked up about eight pieces of mixed Marx and Lionel track.  Wha  do you recommend to de-rust it.  Some is bright and it runs the gamut all the way down to so rusty it's almost unidentifiable.

My final issue is a whole box of Marx motive power that needs to be tested to see if it even runs.  I expect it will require a bunch of cleaning and lubrication, and likely some adjustment and maybe even repair work.

Any and all help will be appreciated and don't be afraid to tell me I'm a dumb ***.  You can't hurt my feelings and my wife and kids have called me worse.

Thanks.

And feel free to take this off line and use my email.

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I have acquired both Lionel RW and ZW transformers and an MRC Throttle pack rectifier.

>>>Excellent group of power supplies for your needs.

I have several issues to deal with. Like, as an example, I don't have so much as an inch of insulated wire in my entire shop.  What do I want to use?  I have a whole sack of the clip-on track connectors that look unused

>>>You will need stranded 12 or 14 gauge wire for track feeders (buss wires around the layout.) This is easy to source, as it's the wire used in extensions cords. You can buy it in bulk from electrical suppliers, or use that old 50 foot yellow extension cord that you accidentally cut in half with the Skil saw.

>>>For signaling and the last few inches of track wiring, from the buss wires to the track (we recommend not using the Lockons, but rather to solder those connections)  you can use 18, 20, 22 or 24 gauge doorbell, telephone or thermostat wire, available at Home Depot, etc.

I will eventually be running six to eight trains on my layout, but to get rolling I figure I can run three with the two transformers I just got.  Am I right in this?

>>> A qualified "yes". We need a more detailed Q & A for that conversation.

I think the MRC unit is DC (not sure) but I may be able to use it for lights and accessories that are not connected to the tracks in any way.  Again, am I right?

>>>Yes, a rectifier, by definition, is a source of Direct Current. It can be used for lights, relays, signals, and such. One side of the output (it doesn't matter whether + or -) can be connected to one side of the track supply, to allow insulated rail operation of DC accessories.

I'm not an electrician, but am pretty confident that I can replace light bulbs.  Beyond that I'm in the dark (The pun is intended....and true.)

>>>Righty-tighty/Lefty-loosey

Next to the last issue (for now) is I also picked up about eight pieces of mixed Marx and Lionel track.  What  do you recommend to de-rust it.  Some is bright and it runs the gamut all the way down to so rusty it's almost unidentifiable.

>>>Buy new track. The rust will be only one issue. The others that will drive you nuts include deteriorated middle-rail insulators, out-of-geometry curves, and loose pins.

My final issue is a whole box of Marx motive power that needs to be tested to see if it even runs.  I expect it will require a bunch of cleaning and lubrication, and likely some adjustment and maybe even repair work.

>>>Double task! Do it while watching the Yankees win the World Series.

Any and all help will be appreciated and don't be afraid to tell me I'm a dumb ***.  You can't hurt my feelings and my wife and kids have called me worse.

>>>We will reserve our opinion of you, and whether your wife is correct, until we have more conversations.  So far, you have asked the right questions.  And welcome, by the way, to train disease.

Thanks.

>>>You're Welcome.

Thank you.  I'll have to use the clip-on track connectors until I get the room cleared out for a real layout table: 28 x 34 foot room full of stored junk.

My wife doesn't pick on me any more.  She passed away 5 1/2 years ago, but the kids have taken up the slack.....and they get some help from some of my friends.

You brought up another question: can I get Marx compatible track  and switches in larger radiuses (radii) than 27")?  I'm thinking maybe 33" and larger.

Bear with me.  This is gonna be a long process, and I'm not really "new" to train disease, just the larger stuff.  I ran (or at least owned and collected) HO for  nearly forty years.  I decided I didn't need nor want the realism and could be happier with toy trains.  Besides  this is easier to work on with eighty year old eyes and fingers.

@Forty Rod posted:

Thank you.  I'll have to use the clip-on track connectors until I get the room cleared out for a real layout table: 28 x 34 foot room full of stored junk.

My wife doesn't pick on me any more.  She passed away 5 1/2 years ago, but the kids have taken up the slack.....and they get some help from some of my friends.

You brought up another question: can I get Marx compatible track  and switches in larger radiuses (radii) than 27")?  I'm thinking maybe 33" and larger.

Bear with me.  This is gonna be a long process, and I'm not really "new" to train disease, just the larger stuff.  I ran (or at least owned and collected) HO for  nearly forty years.  I decided I didn't need nor want the realism and could be happier with toy trains.  Besides  this is easier to work on with eighty year old eyes and fingers.

Marx made 34" track, great stuff for smaller layouts. It will be called "wide radius" and have 5 ties per track section. I have used it exclusively on smaller layouts at the museums.

Steve

Welcome (back) to the world of three rail. The ZW should give you plenty of power for now. The MRC may have both an AC and DC output- the AC is used for accessories in HO, I think, but it may not be many watts. I would give that to an HO pal.

Lots of way to remove rust on track. You can use a special product for rust. I have used WD-40 and 400 sandpaper. It makes a mess.

When you say lash ups, do you mean multiple engines for one consist? In that case, you need to get them all going forward and disconnect the E units if they have them. I usually run them that way.

Working on these old trains is addicting as is the sight and sound of tinplate on track. And so much simpler to wire and trouble shoot. For a small layout, two wires. If you get into accessories, you can make some insulated track sections. Look for track on Ebay.

Have fun!!

Factoid:  Many vintage Marx steam locos have drivewheel gears near the edge of the wheel flanges, and that feature snags on the frog of Lionel 3-rail switches; maybe other brands too.  I collected O-gauge trains with Rock Island decor, and one Marx RI steamer wouldn't/couldn't traverse the Lionel O22 switches on my layout. However, Marx switches have a wider space at the frog, so a Marx steamer can zip right through them.

My favorite Marx loco was a plastic-shell diesel; somewhat like an E8. The RI paint scheme was surprisingly well done.  I also bought a "new Marx" white steam loco with matching freight stock; ultra cool!

I take it you intend to focus on Marx trains exclusively. I suggest that you hang out in the secondary market (like eBay and other online sites) to find them.  Carry on, regardless.

Mike M.    LCCA 12394

On the power pack - send a photo , MRC made both DC and AC packs. If DC, you can still probably use it for lighting or accessories, either the DC or the fixed AC output.

on the track, use whatever O or O27 track you want. Some wider diameters are being made if you want to go there, 027 or the Marx 34 inch are still a little tight for my liking.

JIM

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