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I use DZ1000s in my yard all mounted under the bench using Rix Rax 628-0001 vertical mounts.  Rix Rax  also makes a horizontal unit, P/N 628-0005.  

The DZ1000 mounts to the bracket easily and comes with a piece of what I remember is .030 wire.  Think of the Tortoise switch machines.  Very similar with the adjustment of the fulcrum to achieve enough throw and tension to get the job done.  You do need to make a shim to mount where the DZ would normally mount on top on a tie.  Small hardware needed to attach the DZ to the Rix Rax mount.  I used 1-72 and it worked fine. Many ways to attach, but I tapped the plastic mount where I marked the holes after squaring and plumbing up the DZ on the mount and the centered DZ switch mid-point.

They work great when the DZ switch machine does its thing.  If you have a lazy or problematic DZ, the Rix Rax mount will sure highlight this fact. 

I do all switch machines under table.  Mainline are all Tortoise.

Hey Doug,

You really need clearance underneath to use these under-table mounts.  The mount itself is 4 1/2 inches long and with the DZ1000 add another 1 inch for adequate clearance for the motor and electrical connection.

For about $3 a piece, which includes the wood screws to secure the assembly to the underneath of the top, the two 4-40 machine screws and nuts to secure the fulcrum, and if I remember correctly, an adequate length of music wire.  I usually fabricate a lot of my own stuff, but for $3 to gather all this stuff and prototype and then build 7 of these made no fiscal or time sense to me.  You will see by the pictures they are sturdy and offer slight adjustment in place.

 Because of my experience with the Tortoise switch motors, make a template (tempered 1/4 inch Masonite, acrylic, aluminum) to get everything lined up for drilling underneath.  Use the bracket itself, with the centered DZ mounted, to layout the template locating the slotted mounting holes (2)  and interpolate the location of the one music wire hole clearance (5/16 inch).

I block the switch points to hold a center set.  Then determine which side of the switch throw bar to use.  The hole down through the throw bar is your guide.  Using a small enough but long enough drill bit, drill down straight through the table.  I use a piece of stiff wire to locate the hole underneath and mark it clearly.  I use a 5/16 brad point drill bit with a stop collar securely fastened to the bit and properly gauged to the thickness of the deck and any roadbed material.  Very important!  Too long or the stop collar slips, the throw bar is gone!  The sharp pointed tip on the brad point bit will center perfectly in your previously drilled pilot hole.  I found 5/16 inch is optimum allowing full throw of any manufacturer's switch. 

Now I use an appropriate length 5/16 bolt so I can secure the template to the mounting location from underneath through the drilled hole without hitting the throw bar but pulling the template tightly to underside of the deck. Centered on location and hands free if you wrap a bit of tape to shim the bolt some.  I actually like it so I have to thread the bolt into the wire clearance hole.  Turn the template so the mounting screws are perpendicular to the through switch rails and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.

Works for me.  You may develop your own methods.DZ1000 on Rix Rax2 DZs Rix Rax Back 

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  • DZ1000 on Rix Rax
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SAC Sparkchaser posted:

Hey Doug,

You really need clearance underneath to use these under-table mounts.  The mount itself is 4 1/2 inches long and with the DZ1000 add another 1 inch for adequate clearance for the motor and electrical connection.

For about $3 a piece, which includes the wood screws to secure the assembly to the underneath of the top, the two 4-40 machine screws and nuts to secure the fulcrum, and if I remember correctly, an adequate length of music wire.  I usually fabricate a lot of my own stuff, but for $3 to gather all this stuff and prototype and then build 7 of these made no fiscal or time sense to me.  You will see by the pictures they are sturdy and offer slight adjustment in place.

 Because of my experience with the Tortoise switch motors, make a template (tempered 1/4 inch Masonite, acrylic, aluminum) to get everything lined up for drilling underneath.  Use the bracket itself, with the centered DZ mounted, to layout the template locating the slotted mounting holes (2)  and interpolate the location of the one music wire hole clearance (5/16 inch).

I block the switch points to hold a center set.  Then determine which side of the switch throw bar to use.  The hole down through the throw bar is your guide.  Using a small enough but long enough drill bit, drill down straight through the table.  I use a piece of stiff wire to locate the hole underneath and mark it clearly.  I use a 5/16 brad point drill bit with a stop collar securely fastened to the bit and properly gauged to the thickness of the deck and any roadbed material.  Very important!  Too long or the stop collar slips, the throw bar is gone!  The sharp pointed tip on the brad point bit will center perfectly in your previously drilled pilot hole.  I found 5/16 inch is optimum allowing full throw of any manufacturer's switch. 

Now I use an appropriate length 5/16 bolt so I can secure the template to the mounting location from underneath through the drilled hole without hitting the throw bar but pulling the template tightly to underside of the deck. Centered on location and hands free if you wrap a bit of tape to shim the bolt some.  I actually like it so I have to thread the bolt into the wire clearance hole.  Turn the template so the mounting screws are perpendicular to the through switch rails and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.

Works for me.  You may develop your own methods.DZ1000 on Rix Rax2 DZs Rix Rax Back 

Thanks for the info. I hope to give this a try next week.

Has anyone used the Rix Rax flat (horizontal) bracket with DZ 1000 to mount under the table? I spoke to a gentleman at Rix and he said the Rax system was designed 40 years ago for a switch machine that’s no longer made, he’s never heard of the DZ switch machines. I do see the pics of the  vertical Rax to mount DZ, and the DZ mounted very with a custom made (polystyrene/basswood) mount, very clever. I just wanted to save some time if Rix flat would work.

Mike

@Mike Marino posted:

Has anyone used the Rix Rax flat (horizontal) bracket with DZ 1000 to mount under the table? I spoke to a gentleman at Rix and he said the Rax system was designed 40 years ago for a switch machine that’s no longer made, he’s never heard of the DZ switch machines. I do see the pics of the  vertical Rax to mount DZ, and the DZ mounted very with a custom made (polystyrene/basswood) mount, very clever. I just wanted to save some time if Rix flat would work.

Mike

They're not strong enough to rock the wire. All the machine will do is bend the linkage wire, it does not have enough power to rotate the pivot.

I tried it with 2500s. You can use the vertical mount rix rax, but not the horizontal.

I have built many of the styrene sheet and brass tubed basswood block mounts for modular layout use and they work very well. If you have use of a 3D printer, I would think the DIY flat mount would not be too difficult to turn into a printable file and replicate as needed.

Last edited by Boilermaker1

They're not strong enough to rock the wire. All the machine will do is bend the linkage wire, it does not have enough power to rotate the pivot.

I tried it with 2500s. You can use the vertical mount rix rax, but not the horizontal.

I have enough trouble getting the DZ-2500's working on top of the table, no way I want to stick them under it for even more fun trying to get them all working 100%!

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