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@Sarah posted:

Oh, I forgot – No I was actually never in the US. But I plan a trip over there maybe next year to learn about train operations. I'm very interested in that. My grandpa took me trackside when I started to walk but trains were never a big issue .... UNTIL I came across an issue of MR and on the cover was Ed Rappe's magical Horse Shoe action at his former layout. Since then I really got caught and I know what I want to achieve. 

Sarah,

I haven't been keeping up with your topic until now, fine work

Don't know where you're from but you ought to see Ed Rappe's layout here in Virginia, simply amazing.

The main reason I'm responding is this, I'm building a styrene tender shell (flat sides with a few round areas) and have purchased a number of Archer rivet decals, double and single row.  I haven't read the instructions yet (not ready to put them on at this time), but did you put them on the bare model or did you use any undercoating or paint to apply them?  I've tried them once and had a heck of a time keeping them in position, that was several years ago.

@Sarah posted:

Dear Friends,

Finally I brought my first car project on the way. I wanted to do a UP O-50-6 tank car and since there is no kit or finished model out there, I decided to convert a Red Caboose 10.000 gal. ready to run car.

Since overall dimensions seemd acceptable, I checked out some prototype photos only to find out that they're maybe not THAT similar.

The Red Caboose car comes totally without rivets, also there is only one holding strap instead of two. The ladder is shorter and the underframe totally different. I gave it a try and stripped the model of all small parts. A Dremel helped getting rid of the single strap while I salvaged the turn buckles and stole four more from a second kit. Tichy Train Group buckles were quickly ordered for that second car. 

Clearly I would have to make compromises. I decided to be O.K. with that underframe and tried to focus on more distinctive features. Bill Davis of American Scale Models has the National B-1 trucks. I stripped the Texaco car with brake cleaner, paint came off nicely. 

The rivets gave me a hard time, I had to make myself familiar with the NWSL Riveter tool. It's a nice tool but the table is a bit short for O scale. Also I had to tighten the retaining ring on the thread before the table stopped bouncing. Now it can be used in both directions alike.

 

Making the rivets was not the funniest thing in my life but finally I got the hang of it.

O.K. it's a strip. I found Evergreen .010" sheet material worked fine. Thinner and the rivets would break out. Cutting styrene was also challenging, it has a tendency to be not square when I do that. o_O

But after styrene there came brass. So hard to cut a straight line with sheet scissors. How do you guys cut brass? A tiny belt saw would possibly work, any ideas? Finally I had 10 brackets done and the railing could come on. Oh, I was so proud ... only to discover that the dome of the UP car should be much lower. 

With a heavy heart I razor-sawed off the turret and trimmed it to size. Not so smart with all the grab irons installed. But it worked out!

Car is getting ready for paint shop. I'll have to finish my spray booth first. 

Since this is my first car (virtually the first car that is out of its box for more than just a quick inspection) I am very interested in your comments and thoughts. Your suggestions are highly welcome.

Sarah,

Have you tried the Archer rivet decals? They work very well, just like a regular decal, feel like rivets. they are much easier than a rivet machine. They look great.

Dick

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