Any tips on what to see & do from Glacier Nat Pk & then to the Wyomimg border. We will be staying 1 night at Hampton Inn, Whitefish, 1 night at Izaak Walton, 1 night at Glacier Park, Columbia falls, & 1 night at Best Western, Yellowstone Crossing. Then we head to Yellowstone 3 nights. We pick up the California Zephur in Grand Junction, CO. back to Chicago and then to Boston.
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It sounds like you intend to stay in Laurel MT then go to Yellowstone via US 212 (Beartooth Highway) to the NE entrance. When are you doing this? If the highway is open and weather is good, you will have traversed the most scenic road in America! If the weather is not good it can be a very stressful drive... Once inside YNP the drive from the NE entrance along the Lamar River to Tower Junction is extremely scenic and rich with wildlife - watch out for buffalo on the road! This part of the park is off of the main circle route, but definitely worth seeing. Have a good trip!
Thanks GN Man. We are staying at Canyon Lodge in Yellowstone, & we plan to do the Beartooth Hwy to NE entrance . I can't wait to see Buffalo.
Is the road open on Bear Tooth yet? We've had tons of snow this year. At any rate, I would bring clothes that will keep you warm down to 30 degrees. Especially bring wind proof pants & jacket.
Kent in SD
Eddie,
If you have not seen Glacier NP before, then I highly recommend taking the Red Bus tour, actually 1920’s vintage open top cars, up through the park on the Going to the sun road. We did this last summer, it was well worth the time and cost.
There is a great pie place in East Glacier too, just a few miles up from the Inn, and while in East Glacier check out the train station and the Glacier Park Lodge — both offer some excellent historic displays of Great Northern RR history and the connection between the GN and the park.
We in fact loved Glacier so much during our short stay last summer, only three days of our two week 6,000 mile by rail trip, that we’re going back June 28 to July 9 this summer. It is a spectacular place!
+1 on Bear Tooth and the northeast corner of Yellowstone. It's one of my favorite parts of Yellowstone It possesses none of the big ticket attractions like Old Faithful or the waterfalls, but it has an understated beauty that really struck me. I also appreciate that it is often less populated than the western half of the park because of that. Logically visitors with limited time often focus on the famous sights.
I think in your older post about this trip, I suggested making your way from Glacier to Laurel via Bozeman, Bozeman Pass, and Livingston. I'd still suggest that. There's a decent chance that you will catch Montana Rail Link action over Bozeman Pass, and Livingston is full of remnants of the old Northern Pacific.
Enjoy your trip!
Jim
Just checked--Beartooth Highway is projected to be opened on Memorial Day.
Kent in SD
Make the effort to stop at the midway geyser basin, go inside the old faithful lodge, take the Jenny lake boat tour, ride up the Snowking chairlift on the south side of town in Jackson.
Too much to see, too little time, and too many miles, but the scenery viewed from the car as you travel will range from fascinating to spectacular.
On your travel from Jackson to Grand Junction via Vernal, I prefer to go down the west side of the Green River (via Manila) to see the heart of the Flaming Gorge. Check out the Dino. Nat. Monument near Vernal.
I am more worried that the Sun rd won't be open on June 19th then I am about the Beartooth hwy. I believe the Beartooth hwy will be open on the 23rd.when we arrive there. Thanks for all your help. I will bring all these suggestions with me.
Lot's of things to see in YNP--I could easily spend a year there. Wife & I go about every three years since it's relatively close. My favorites are the geysors and big waterfalls. Have at least lunch if not dinner at Old Faithful Lodge--best hotel in the park by far! Speaking of Yellowstone, the most famous photographer there was Frank J. Haynes. He was the official photographer for the Northern Pacific starting in 1876, and photo'd the building of the railroad. The NP paid him to take photos of YNP starting about 1882, as the railroad had a spur that went to Gardiner, MT. This was very lucrative for NP. Haynes ended up living in YNP until about 1903. He had several shops that sold his prints and stereoviews in the park, and had a heavy influence on the park's formation. It's worth researching before you go. My favorite spot in Glacier NP is the little rain forest--"Trail of the Cedars." Easy walking and very pretty.
Kent in SD
Attachments
Enjoy your trip. May be a bit early for the "Going to the Sun Road". Heavy snow this winter. I was there 2010 a heavy snow winter, late July. There was still a lot of trails closed/or subject to snow/ice. 2015 access was much better.
Sign posted on Highline trail, late July 2010, to Granite Park Chalet. 2015 I was able to do this hike, no problem.
Again best wishes with Glacier National Park. Always my favorite adventure. Hope to return soon.
Granite Park Chalet hike 2015 Click on the link.
Mike CT.
TWO23, Via Vernal. I can't find Vernal on the map. OK found it. We go right thru there on 191. We will stop and see Flaming Gorge.
eddie g posted:TWO23, Via Vernal. I can't find Vernal on the map.
Tracker John was talking about Vernal, not me.
Kent in SD
Vernal, UT. On Rt. 191 south from Jackson. Shortest drive from Jackson to Grand Junction CO.
FWIW, if you're taking the Builder all the way from Chicago, the best place to be between Chicago and St.Paul is on the right side of the train. Keeps you out of the sun, and best views are to the right - especially along the Mississippi River.
It might be too early for these Glacier N.P. stops, but you can ask at the Visitors Center. My wife and I were there in September, 2014 and it was beautiful. Here are two spots we enjoyed.
On the east side, the Many Glacier area was an enjoyable outing. The Many Glacier Hotel sits on Swiftcurrent Lake. You can take a boat ride the length of Swiftcurrent Lake, then make short hike over a hill (easy walk) to Lake Josephine to board a second boat and continue the boat ride the length of that lake. Very nice views of Mt. Grinnell from there and wildlife sightings. It's a pretty level hike back to the hotel from there if you choose to do it. Again, I don't know if this is open in June, but worth asking about.
The second spot I would mention is on the west side, Polebridge Mercantile and Bowman Lake. The Polebridge Bakery has some pretty good baked goods. I really liked the beer batter huckleberry cinnamon bread. Take a slice of that toasted and a little butter and it melts in the mouth. If you haven't already discovered this, huckleberries in Montana are like blueberries in Maine. They put them in everything :'). After you satisfy your sweet tooth, keep driving in and see Lake Bowman, another large lake with high mountains all around it. The roads up this way are not paved, so hopefully you will be in an appropriate vehicle. The road in to Bowman Lake is rougher and may not be open, so you should ask first. I would guess you could get to the Mercantile/bakery though. It's a nice drive along the North Fork of the Flathead River to get up there if you are coming up from say Apgar Visitors Center.
Enjoy your trip! It's all beautiful country out there and pretty much a "can't miss" for whatever you do.
CincinnatiWestern posted:
We in fact loved Glacier so much during our short stay last summer, only three days of our two week 6,000 mile by rail trip, that we’re going back June 28 to July 9 this summer. It is a spectacular place!
It's a good idea to see Glacier National Park sooner rather than later, given that the glaciers there are melting at an alarming rate.
Top of Signal Mountain in the Tetons. Lunch or dinner at the Jackson Lake Lodge. Go to the show at the Jackson Hole Playhouse in downtown Jackson Hole.
Regret that you did not allow more time in Glacier, Yellowstone, the Grand Tetons and Jackson Hole.
Enjoy what will be a special trip.
Jackson WY, Teton Village, there is a cable lift, aerial tramway, that will get you to the top. A beautiful view. Late July pictures, still requires a coat at the top.
Tramway is south of the Grand Teton, (tallest mountain), right center of picture.
Jackson Airport, Snake River, distant in this photo, Gros Ventre, ( pronounced Gravant), Wilderness area.
AL GALLI, give me $10,000 and we will stay another 13 days.
I can offer some suggestions for Canyon Lodge to Grand Junction. Two years ago, my wife and I stayed at Canyon Lodge. That was quite a nostalgia trip for me. I was at Canyon camp ground in 1952, on a family camping trip from New York to CA and back. A bear walked up on the opposite side of the table as my mother was cooking dinner, but you won't have problems like that at the lodge.
Given your lodging location, I highly recommend touring both sides of the grand canyon. We found that three hours after breakfast was plenty fo time to drive the rim roads on both sides. We then went back to the south entrance via Old Faithful (lunch stop) and back to Jackson and Teton Village in plenty of time for diner at my sister's condo. The trick is to plan lunch in the cafeteria at Old Faithful around one of the approximately hourly eruptions. The loop through Old Faithful adds only about 30 miles going to the south entrance.
For a more leisurely journey, go straight south, stopping for lunch at Grant Lake. There is a nice walk there through interesting hot springs - coloful boiling small ponds and other unusual sights.
The cafeteria food in the park is good and reasonably priced. At Grant Lake, I recommend the dining room. Not terribly expensive for lunch and a good view.
The speed limit is 40 through the whole park, and that is what people drive at, and there are no places to pass, so figure 30 for planning. And allow time for a herd of bison to cross the road in front of you. As we were driving up to Canyon, we saw a small herd walking beside the road and they turned to cross the road right ahead of us. so we stopped as about 30 of them ambled across the road so close we could almost touch them.
Going out the south entrance, you will have a magnificent view of the Grand Tetons, even if you don't go through the park. That detour is worth an hour or two if you have time and then don't miss Jenny Lake Drive.
If I were making that trip, I'd be sure to schedule staying overnight at Green River. It's on the UP main line where the line to Portland leaves the main line to Ogden. There are at least two trains per hour going through Green River and some times four or more. I believe the daily total is not much less than 100.
We rode the CZ from Reno to Denver about five years ago. Trains in the opposite direction seemed to be mostly unit trains of coal and covered hoppers. I suspect they run those slow trians on that route to avoid them interfering with intermodal and fast freight on the line across Wyoming.
Enjoy the trip, wish we coudl do it again.
Malcolm Laughlin
I stayed at the Izzak a few years back. Time of my life, your stay will be amazing too. Glacier is also beautiful, enjoy the park as much as you can. Remember your bear mace on hikes, it comes in handy. Also bring water and snacks, but don't leave any trash behind. Have fun and be safe!
Maxrailroad posted:Remember your bear mace on hikes, it comes in handy. Also bring water and snacks, but don't leave any trash behind.
Probably won't need bear spray unless going into the back country. If you stay in groups of four or more the chances for trouble are very low. I'll add that both Montana and Wyoming are states with full reciprocity for those with a concealed pistol permit from other states. National Parks are now required to honor what the state accepts. Still, all in all, bear spray would be my choice for any "incident". I wouldn't bother with either if staying on the short, heavily traveled trails.
Kent in SD
When we were at Canyon campground, the park rangers told us to bang on a tin pan if a bear comes close - it hurts their ears - sensitive to high pitche d sounds. It worked.
Railroad, Jackson (Jackson Hole)WY never happened. Closest was Victor Idaho. Material was wagoned/trucked over Teton Pass to Jackson. Victor Idaho train station pictures, there is a rail trail.
North of Jackson, entering the US Forestry Service Area, Bridger Teton Wilderness. Picture of Buffalo Creek, we worked a trail head, not far from here, along Soda Ash Creek. As good as young mountains get in the US. IMO.
The train was a mule train.
Close in, Grand Teton National Park is the Jenny Lake tent site. Hard to get a spot here, but great walking access to the Jenny lake boat shuttles, and a beautiful walk-in-the-park , Cascade Canyon, across the lake. I had a guest, my tent site. A small black bear, who, once I reported him, to the camp attendant, was short for this world. Note the radio collar, a trouble bear. I was tenting out of the back of my car, had no idea, where the bear spray, was at the time.
There are instruction, how to use. There is a good chance, wind the wrong way, bear spray will effect you.
When in Jackson Hole, visit the "TOWN SQUARE BROADWAY" park in downtown. There are walk-through arches at each corner made of elk antlers. Tell your family and friends to look at the webcam at a certain time and you will wave to them!
One more note, Jackson Hole area. Jackson was not the community of choice long ago. It was a small hamlet of Kelly, that is still a cross-roads in the Gros Ventre, Anetelope Flats area. Kelly unfortunately was the victim of an earthquake/quake-lake flood, that destroyed the community.
Mike CT posted:Railroad, Jackson (Jackson Hole)WY never happened. Closest was Victor Idaho. Material was wagoned/trucked over Teton Pass to Jackson. Victor Idaho train station pictures, there is a rail trail.
North of Jackson, entering the US Forestry Service Area, Bridger Teton Wilderness. Picture of Buffalo Creek, we worked a trail head, not far from here, along Soda Ash Creek. As good as young mountains get in the US. IMO.
The train was a mule train.
That Victor station had sleeping car service as late as 1964, gone by '67.
You should also plan to spend some time in Whitefish, itself. It's got a nice downtown area and a very nice old GN station.
Steven J. Serenska
The Going-to-the-Sun Road is at its best right after opening. Bright sun; snow walls along the road, runoff on the highway; flowers in the fields Wife and I drove it one year right after opening and we can still picture it.
Do watch for bears, and carry bells & pepper if you hike.
Was waiting for someone to post that sign.
That sign is great !
Thanks all for your suggestions. Keep it going. I will take all this with me.
There is Railroad, Missoula, Montana. Your trip from Glacier, to Yellowstone could take you through Missoula. There is/was a walking bridge over the yard.
We have flown into Missoula. Kalispell is close-in Glacier, more expensive. Probably a 2 hr. drive Missoula to Glacier, also at least two hrs. Missoula to Bozeman, which would be north of Yellowstone National Park. Plan your over nights, ahead of time, limited rooms and, a herd of people, during the summer vacation season.
Best wishes with your trip, It's tough to see it all, I've done at least (6) North western adventures, pictures posted are a mix of the trips. You never get bored with Montana/Wyoming and I'd add Utah, I flew into Salt Lake City a couple of times.
All is a surprise v.s. Pennsylvania.
Also monitor Forest fires/burns. My last visit to Glacier 2015, there were on-going fires before my drive from near Yellowstone north. Fires were primarily east Glacier, I was staying at Apgar campground. I did have shuttle access to the top of the mountains, Logan Pass, where I did a hike on Highline trail, to Granite Park Chalet. Click on the link for a slideshow. Fires on the east side had closed the GTTS Road from St. Marys. Depending on, how quickly Montana dries-out, after a record snow-fall winter, determines the fire season. Late July into August would be the start of the fire season. IMO.
Fire in and around Yellowstone also a concern.
Again best wishes.
Mike CT.
Mike CT posted:There is Railroad Missoula Montana. Your trip from Glacier to Yellowstone could take you through Missoula. There is/was a walking bridge over the yard.
Mike:
These pictures are stunning and really capture what it's like to visit the area.
They give the feeling you get when looking at a mountain that you could "just walk right up there". Thanks for sharing.
Steven J. Serenska
Eddie G:
If you haven't already read it, be sure to read "A River Runs Through It" by Norman Maclean. The movie that was based on the book was typical Hollywood folderol but the book itself is one of the best ever written in the English language.
Maclean was a Shakespearean scholar who was Dartmouth educated and who had a long career at the University of Chicago. He was also a logger in his youth and writes as well about Montana, fly fishing, etc. as anyone. The book consists of 3 novellas; At 86 pages, the title story is truly a masterpiece. Bring it along for your train ride to get your juices flowing...
When I traveled to Montana, I very much enjoyed visiting many of the places referenced in the book, including (if not especially) some of the 100+ year old taverns that play a prominent part in the stories.
Even for those not going to Whitefish, "A River Runs Through It" is a must read. I cannot say enough good things about the book.
HTH.
Steven J. Serenska
Serenska, I believe that I saw the movie when it first came out, but today I got the DVD on the bay and will watch it again with my daughter & grandson. Thanks.
Mike mentioned forest fire burns. That is one of the fascinating aspects of the road from the Yellowstone south entrance down to Jackson Hole. When we were there two years ago , it was only a month or so after a major fire had closed the road for days. We drove through a patchwork of burned areas and areas the fire had skipped over. There were even rows of trees that were geen on one side and brown on the other. Trees don't grow fast in that climate so you will still see the effects of the fire well.
There are exhibits along the road with amps and the history of fires in northwest Wyoming. Something like 80 % of the land has had one or more fires in the last 200 years, most of them natural. Old brush clearnace by fire seems to be an important part of the ecosystem.
A lot has changed, recent years, about western forest fires. We spent 80 years suppressing fires/putting them out, only to realize that the fuel had increased dramatically. When a fire started, the burn was more intense, in effect, scorching the earth, consuming everything, including the seeds needed, for re-growth. Dramatic fire, 1988 Yellowstone, south. First picture is an area with little re-growth, 25 years later. Pacific Creek, to Gravel Creek, US Forestry Wilderness area.
Same fire a less intense burn, Sheffield trail head, US Forestry Wilderness area.
27 Years of re-growth, 1988 Yellowstone fire.
Recent policy, US Forestry Service, Dept of Agriculture, is to let wilderness fires burn, unless they threaten property.
Last summer's fires, Glacier National Park, destroyed the Perry Chalet, a historic mountain top building, one of a few walk-in only chalets that remain. Perry Chalet is currently being rebuilt. There was an attempt to save the structure, the fire was more than limited resources could suppress.
IMO Fire is a part of western life. IMO Mike CT.
Got the "A river runs thru it" DVD today and watched it. Cried at the end. I don't like sad movies. Do you know what river that was in the movie?
Blackfoot River
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...ver_Runs_Through_It_(film)
Clip from the article.
Filming[edit]
Although both the book and movie are set in Missoula and on the Blackfoot River, it was filmed in late June, early July 1991 in south central Montana in Livingston and Bozeman,[2] and on the nearby upper Yellowstone, Gallatin, and Boulder Rivers. The waterfall shown is Granite Falls in Wyoming.[3][4] Filming was completed in early September 1991.
Parts of the movie were filmed on the Gallatin River.
Guys:
Please re-read my original post. If you cried at the movie, your lives will be changed by the book. Please read the book.
Steven J. Serenska
OK. back to the original thread. I was hoping to go to Slovenia and Romania this summer, but my wife can't get off that long. So the back up plan is to visit my kid in Seattle again, take his car down to Oregon, and climb Mt. Hood. I was looking at the schedule for the Empire Builder. Am I reading right--it departs Fargo at 3:30 in the morning? Crying out loud! Arrives in Seattle at 10:30am, that's OK. Now, what about meals for first class? Is it really great dining (3 chef prepared meals) like VIA in Canada? No first class dome cars on the Empire Builder? We could just as easily drive to Winnipeg and take VIA across to Vancouver, and then take the Cascade train down to Seattle, I think. (Except we've done that already.) Looks like a 33 hour trip (ha ha!) and only ~$1,000 for two adults if I'm reading this right? I've been on several trains in Canada, Scotland/UK, Norway, Italia, but have not yet ridden Amtrak.
Kent in SD
Note that Amtrak, Empire Builder, is using BNSF trackage. Freight has priority, which effects all the scheduling. Not uncommon to be way off schedule.
East Glacier station.
As much as I like VIA Rail and their great food, they also have on time problems because of freight traffic. If you are comparing train travel to other modes of transportation in North America. You probably won't be happy, take the train for adventure that it is and have a great time.
Enjoy the journey
Clem
clem k posted:As much as I like VIA Rail and their great food, they also have on time problems because of freight traffic. If you are comparing train travel to other modes of transportation in North America. You probably won't be happy, take the train for adventure that it is and have a great time.
Enjoy the journey
Clem
Yeah, that's how I look at it. I was just wondering if it really would only cost me ~$1,000 for two people Fargo-->Seattle. Also wondering if the food was any good and if there are three hot meals a day. Don't want to be eating cold balogna sandwiches, LOL. Wife & I both loved the VIA trip a couple of years ago, but it would involve another day of travel (drive to Winnipeg and then Cascade train Vancouver-->Seattle.) It's also a thousand bucks per person for first class (the only way to go!) Have so far avoided Amtrak. I was looking forward to riding an overnight Eastern European train, but that will have to be put off until next year.
Kent in SD
18 years ago our family of four traveled cross-country in a giant figure-eight “All Aboard America” for about $1000. Food was good and the scenery was amazing.
Prices have gone up and food quality down (so I’ve heard) but Amtrak can’t screw up the scenery so go for it!
TWO23
Try Amtrak......I go at least once a year, west coast and back. Food on Amtrak depends a lot on the crew, I just had one of my best meals ever on Amtrak on the Capitol Limited a couple of weeks ago out of Chicago. Usually the Empire Builder is always good.
Thanks. Wife is calling their information line tomorrow.
And now for a couple of tips for the OP:
(1) Trim your toenails before you go or start the hike. If they're too long it will be painful as you start the long walk downhill.
(2) It's a dry climate, and altitude of 8,000+ ft. holds even less humidity. Take twice as much water as you think you'll need. I bring a 3L water pack (Osprey) and my wife brings a 1L bottle for these kinds of hikes. Drink often because if you dehydrate it makes it harder for your heart.
3. Bring moleskin or bandages & ointment in case you get blisters on the hike. I wear Smart Wool hiking socks--do not wear cotton socks. They cause blisters.
4. Take a lightweight poncho. Not only good for keeping off rain, but gives some windchill protection too.
Kent in SD
I was watching one of those house hunting shows. The couple was in Whitefish Mt. The wife went on about the beautiful train that comes there and the camera showed it for a bit.
I remembered this thread and wondered if you might be the couple in the program? Cool anyway.
Tell me what you know about Lake Josephine boat tours? Thank you.
The boat tours originate at the Many Glaciers Lodge. There is a small hike between lakes to the second boat on Grinnell Lake. Two boats, three different lakes farthest lake pictured is Lake Sherburn. Ultimate goal from the last boat ride is to hike up to Grinnell Glacier. A look from the Glacier over the three lakes. Can be an all day event, bring food and water.
Early morning boats are good. The afternoon boat can be crowded with considerable wait time. Another look.
Glacier is still a hike up and over from above picture.
2006 images.
eddie g posted:Got the "A river runs thru it" DVD today and watched it. Cried at the end. I don't like sad movies. Do you know what river that was in the movie?
According to IMDB:
Even though the film claims that it is filmed in Missoula, it is actually filmed in and around Livingston, Bozeman and Big Timber, Montana. Many of the fishing scenes were filmed in the Gallatin Canyon on the Gallatin River south of Bozeman.
Here is a link to the Many Glacier boat tour info that my wife and I took that I mentioned earlier.
Dave, Someone told me that the fishing scenes were filmed on the Blackfoot River? Before we leave, I will call you.
Dave, You are correct. it was filmed on the Gallatin river around Bozeman. WOW, Would I like to fish that river.
IMDB said SOME, so there might have been scenes from the Blackfoot too. I think the rivers in Montana are among the best in the country and I could sit by them anytime. Might even have a beer or 3.
Looks like Eddie's going to be just a few days early to get through Glacier on the Going To The Sun Road. I just heard the plows have made it to Logan Pass, but I'm sure that means they still have plenty of work to do before opening to traffic.
You're going to God's country as my father-in-law used to say. I like totake a travel bar on the train for a private cocktail hour before dinner. The porter called it Mr Potrzbe's medicine.