Frank and Pat,
Thanks for your votes of confidence. I really just want to avoid getting 3/4 of the way finished, then having to take apart to start over for something I could have done/ added now.
I bought some 3 axle trucks from Lionel the other day and used a pair of them to finish off this 0-27 tender that has been languishing on the scrap heap for a couple of years or more. Some day I may find some slightly smaller wheels to swap out. It is suitable to put behind post-war Hudsons and such.
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JD Jr,
Put the final touches on the restoration/maintenance of my 2 old original Post War Lionel GP7's, a Brunswick Green Pa & a Northern Pacific. Both now operate as smoothly as when they were 1st produced, even as a Double Header.
PCRR/Dave
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Spent the last week in do-over mode. I like my recent landscaping efforts on my new South half that I decided to re-do portions of the north half to blend. So I redid the area between my mainlines and started installing the area below the lines. Will have to wait for it to dry for a few days before I can paint and apply scenic materials.
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Marc C posted:I've been wanting to do this for awhile now. Still need to do some painting to hide the wires. Should look good on the layout.
Oh for Heaven's sake, tell me that's not as cool as it gets! Wow. And another wow!
FrankM.
Moonson posted:Marc C posted:I've been wanting to do this for awhile now. Still need to do some painting to hide the wires. Should look good on the layout.
Oh for Heaven's sake, tell me that's not as cool as it gets! Wow. And another wow!
FrankM.
Agreed! It takes realism to the next level. Well done, Marc C.
Bruce
My my! my!! No helmet or protective gear.
Marc C...that is fantastic!!!!!!!!! You have got to post instructions on how you did that. However, that looks like a Honda, not a Harley.
I got very frustrated yesterday. figured I would wire up one signal light. 3 hrs later it still wasn't working. I finally gave up for another day. it's wired it turns on but doesn't switch colors with the IR sensor. which makes me wonder are all IR sensors the same ? so instead I ran trains and made a video 
I abandoned the IR sensors altogether and went with insulated rail. I know wiring can be frustrating, but it's with it in the end.
Motor cyclist must be in good old Penna., we did away with the helmet ruling several years ago. Dumb move?
I use to do that too with relays and insulated rail. It worked but being electrically challenged didn't help the situation so when the controller boards came out I bought some and the trade off was timed color switch instead of if wheels were on the section it was on the other issue turned up was if the train was on 2 sections at the same time . because the second sections red output powered the previous sections yellow so I would end up with both yellow and red on at the same time . the sections couldn't be far enough apart to keep that from happening. so the control board was a simpler solution. but I have had a high failure rate with them. Out of 10 control boards I know of at least 4 that are bad. But I don't like the other solutions 100's of dollars. this was a cheaper solution. OH well I will get them to work it doesn't help I'm having issues seeing the small wires I think its time for glasses 
what I did was mount all the controller boards to a board then wired up rj45 connector to the boards for the 4 wires of the lights and 4 wires for the sensors, I do the same on the signal end a rj45 connector for the 4 wires for the signal and the 4 wires for the IR sensors, I then run one cat5 wire between them. In testing it all worked. but when I went to apply it under the table. first was no lights at all opps wired the cat5 wire wrong not being able to see the small wires I didn't insert a wire far enough before crimping. then made another cable tested it with another signal and it worked fine. so fixed the cat 5 and I got lights ok that fixed that cool but now no IR switching Back to drawing board why isn't it working turned out the board (new just came in the other day didn't work ) so after 3 hrs of all of that nothing but trouble shooting issues I stopped and ran trains. 
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Jhainer posted:I got very frustrated yesterday. figured I would wire up one signal light. 3 hrs later it still wasn't working. I finally gave up for another day. it's wired it turns on but doesn't switch colors with the IR sensor. which makes me wonder are all IR sensors the same ? so instead I ran trains and made a video
Did you check the IR manual (Lionel). It says in there which wires to connect from the device to the IR's ACC-GND, NO, and for three wire devices the NC too. However, there is an issue about connecting more than one device. Lionel says to add a Diode or multiple won't work. That happened to me . I had a Gateman and added a Crossing Flasher. All running on ACC voltage. The whole thing shut down the ACC Transf. I had ACC disconnected for 6mos or more through frustration. Then I reread the advanced part of the manual where it talks about the Diode. Then I disconnected the Gateman and left the Flasher because that is all I really wanted. Also, I never liked the Gateman's Buzzing.
Hopefully this will help in some way.
Cheers,
Eric.
Ericlinda posted:Jhainer posted:I got very frustrated yesterday. figured I would wire up one signal light. 3 hrs later it still wasn't working. I finally gave up for another day. it's wired it turns on but doesn't switch colors with the IR sensor. which makes me wonder are all IR sensors the same ? so instead I ran trains and made a video
Did you check the IR manual (Lionel). It says in there which wires to connect from the device to the IR's ACC-GND, NO, and for three wire devices the NC too. However, there is an issue about connecting more than one device. Lionel says to add a Diode or multiple won't work. That happened to me . I had a Gateman and added a Crossing Flasher. All running on ACC voltage. The whole thing shut down the ACC Transf. I had ACC disconnected for 6mos or more through frustration. Then I reread the advanced part of the manual where it talks about the Diode. Then I disconnected the Gateman and left the Flasher because that is all I really wanted. Also, I never liked the Gateman's Buzzing.
Hopefully this will help in some way.
Cheers,
Eric.
not lionels IR
tackindy posted:In the middle of a total rebuild. But today I just sat back and ran my trains. Mountains are rising and some trees are up.... and buildings are beginning to take their places.
that Is pretty cool looking layout
Jhainer, I know this may sound silly. But I was having the same problem with an IR sensor for a switching program I was trying. Come to find out it wasn't getting the signal do to the over head lighting. Once I made something to block the light to the sensor everything worked fine.
mike g. posted:Jhainer, I know this may sound silly. But I was having the same problem with an IR sensor for a switching program I was trying. Come to find out it wasn't getting the signal do to the over head lighting. Once I made something to block the light to the sensor everything worked fine.
I can see the IR working with my camera so I know the wiring is working. but just won't switch the one I am working on is on the lower section of the layout so it is shrouded from the overhead lights. the one I had working on the upper layout worked fine with the over head lights. I have a feeling the boards I got were late Friday afternoon boards
redball342 posted:Motor cyclist must be in good old Penna., we did away with the helmet ruling several years ago. Dumb move?
Yes I would have to agree. A few years ago a high school classmate was killed hitting his non-helmeted head on the pavement in a motorcycle accident.
All the gear-all the time. My son had the rear wheel come off his BMW at 55 MPH, slid across two lanes of I-81 in Va., got up and walked away. He knew how to tuck & rol but was very lucky. Plus full protective gear. I remember years ago the bikers wearing original German WW II helmets !! That would look cool on a layout. I have a lead British made military motorcyclist on my layout but not the lights.
Marc C posted:I've been wanting to do this for awhile now. Still need to do some painting to hide the wires. Should look good on the layout.
That's cool!!!!!!
Today is continuing ballasting the yard area. Received a new ballast shipment from Brennans Better Ballast yesterday. Thanks Dennis! Whoo Hooo!!
Pine Creek Railroad posted:JD Jr,
Put the final touches on the restoration/maintenance of my 2 old original Post War Lionel GP7's, a Brunswick Green Pa & a Northern Pacific. Both now operate as smoothly as when they were 1st produced, even as a Double Header.
PCRR/Dave
I think that Brunswick Green GP7 is a MPC maybe on a postwar frame?
Its been a busy couple of months with replacing base board and some rewiring. Also finished the intragration of my son's Slot car track into the layout.
Winterton Public works announces the completion of the street lighting and road repaving projects. Prior to the end of the holidays With the signing of contracts to allow European Racing teams to conduct testing on streets and ring road. The Winterton Village council had approved the upgrading and replacement of the old street lighting to improve safety and allow night testing and racing. In addition they also had approved the project to resurface the roads. A village official had stated that this was a win, win for all. With the money received from the teams paying 90% of the project. Both projects were completed ahead of schedule.
Day and night shots. Forgive the drone operator as he still learning to fly the thing.
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Buzz 191, You are correct about JD Jr's Brunswick Green GP 7 (9?), being MPC on a possible postwar frame. I have had one for over 30 years bought new in the box (which i've upgraded to TMCC and can't seem to sell), and it has a different frame with plastic hand rails.
jackson
Hi JHAINER, Just wondering what type of IR Set up your using for the lower level? Are they across the track or under the track at any angle?
Today I was going to run out and get what I needed to continue my projects but instead I decided to relax and just enjoy running trains. ...................Paul
jim pastorius posted:All the gear-all the time. My son had the rear wheel come off his BMW at 55 MPH, slid across two lanes of I-81 in Va., got up and walked away. He knew how to tuck & rol but was very lucky. Plus full protective gear. I remember years ago the bikers wearing original German WW II helmets !! That would look cool on a layout. I have a lead British made military motorcyclist on my layout but not the lights.
We ride ATGATT, all the gear all the time. 45+ years on BMWs. Over 300, 000 miles, all states and most of Canada. I have been hot in 35 mph side winds in the west but the day you ride without it, it'll happen. Also though with the Goretex in the riding suit, Klim, we're dry as we ride in and out of the rain. My wife rides her own BMW...she says she has been riding one more year than I .
I try to be light about it and say at least if something happens I'll be all in one sack for them.
I don't ride, I like a metal roof but my son has done a lot. Their rule is no booze until the riding is done for the day.
jim pastorius posted:I don't ride, I like a metal roof but my son has done a lot. Their rule is no booze until the riding is done for the day.
Good rule during any task, even working on an engine or wiring
modeltrainsparts posted:Buzz 191, You are correct about JD Jr's Brunswick Green GP 7 (9?), being MPC on a possible postwar frame. I have had one for over 30 years bought new in the box (which i've upgraded to TMCC and can't seem to sell), and it has a different frame with plastic hand rails.
jackson
Thanks I thought that's what I saw.
How come you cannot sell the Geep?
I have 2 TMCC PRR Geeps and two MPC Brunswick Green and a Postwar PRR
mike g. posted:Hi JHAINER, Just wondering what type of IR Set up your using for the lower level? Are they across the track or under the track at any angle?
under the track at a slight angle
I had the same setup on my 2 rail layout and if they stuck to far up between the ties it wouldn't work. Just something to think about. I am trying to remember what else I had problems with it. At one point I talked to the rep and they sent me out new board.
More never ending wiring, It will take at least to the end of the weekend to complete it even if I work on it 8 hours a day and it is just on one of six sections. I am going to need more meds! 
Wahh!
to replace the bad boards I bought 6 azatrax boards
This mess is the result of a change to my workbench. The overhead lighting and shelf that was previously attached to the desktop really took up too much space and blocked visibility. I simply mounted the lighting header to the ceiling instead, greatly opening up the area and allowing access to the pair of tracks if need be. The dangling electrical wire is not to code.
Bruce
Have you called and talked to the owner at Azatrax? When I was having problems with my reversing loop in my 2 rail he helped me out talked me threw some problems, and even sent me a new board.
I started last night on scenery forms with those pink foam sheets. I got one of those hot wire cutters from Woodland Scenic and the thing is great (knives don’t work well on foam at all, I found). But after messing around with it, I realized I needed to change my concept of terrain forms substantially. I was going to put entire sheets into place and sculpt through them but it just didn’t work that way. I had put contours into the fascia to show lightly undulating terrain. I eventually just cut foam sheets for a few inches from the edges and eased them down into the flat areas of plywood. I’ll also make numerous, small bumps and pile-shaped forms to randomly place here and there so it doesn’t obviously look totally flat. Along the back corners, the scenery will rise up right at the edge next to the walls and I think it’ll work okay. It’s hard, of course, to imagine it all as it just looks like wood and pink foam right now. I bet it’ll look decent with ground foam and static grass in place. All I know is once I get the forms done and in place, I’ll paint over everything with a color similar to the soil, then start with the ‘grass’, ‘rocks’ and trees. But once the shapes are in place, I’d think the rest should go pretty quickly. My goal is to have scenery looking halfway decent by the time spring officially arrives on March 20.
Worked on • Korber Models • Lewis & Sons, Manufacturing Corp.
Step 1 / Degrease the plastic with DAWN dish soap.
Step 2 / Spray with Testors Dull Cote
Step 3 / White wash the bricks with acrylic paint.
Step 4 / Insert the window frames, plastic windows and paper behind the plastic.
Step 5 / Light weather, with chalk, will fine tune later, when flat is in final location.
