What did you do on your layout today?

Put the BCR in my PS-1 loco yesterday in between watching my pot of chili simmer.

Now the @#$%@ doesn't move. Powers up and the lights come on but no loco-motion. I will revisit later.

Bob

I worked on a new 12' by 12' shop addition to my train shed. 

Bob, did you let the BCR charge at 11 volts for about a minute first.........Paul

I got a little train time in this weekend 

paul 2 posted:

Bob, did you let the BCR charge at 11 volts for about a minute first.........Paul

Yes, I was wondering what Paul questioned.

Rick, that workshop addition looks great so far!

Lee, It is always good to just run trains.  That was a nice one.

Sharp-looking train set, Lee.

paul 2 posted:

After diner I got my blue paint on the backdrop. I left the botom because I will be painting in trees. Tomorrow I can focus on cutting the plywood out and cutting the bridge abutements so they will work with the Menards bridges. Pics............Paul

 

Your project gets better and better. I like the darker sky instead of the all blue very nice work.

It isn't always true, But Canadian Pacific usually puts out good-looking trains.

A note of humor here: a hobby shop in Guadalajara has a magnificent-looking HO Canadian Pacific set. It hasn't sold in almost a year, but they keep jacking up the price.

lee drennen posted:

I got a little train time in this weekend 

I like that Nickle Plate stuff!   Do you study that road?   Ive been looking be cannot find when Southern bought NP or if they had always owned them?  Or did they acquire NP at the same point that they got NW? 

Paul paint looks good!    Flip that dude over an dyou got some clouds!!! : ) 

Bob I dont even know what a BCR is.........................

Jim

Mark Boyce posted:

paul 2 posted:

Bob, did you let the BCR charge at 11 volts for about a minute first.........Paul

Yes, I was wondering what Paul questioned.

Rick, that workshop addition looks great so far!

Lee, It is always good to just run trains.  That was a nice one.

Mark and Paul- Yes- I put it on my test track at 12v for the appropriate amount of time. The relays cycle and the lights come on but nothing else. I need to go through the start up with the manual in front of me. Didn't really have time yesterday. First time for me playing with a PS-1 system. There was a note in the box from the previous owner of the date and time the old battery was removed (even had the Radio Shack model # for the replacement). Going by that I assume that the PS-1 system works. The engine runs in conventional mode without the battery so I'm sure its operator stupid...umm...error.

Jim- A BCR replaces a battery in older Proto-sound equipped locomotives.

carsntrains posted:

lee drennen posted:

I got a little train time in this weekend 

I like that Nickle Plate stuff!   Do you study that road?   Ive been looking be cannot find when Southern bought NP or if they had always owned them?  Or did they acquire NP at the same point that they got NW? 

Paul paint looks good!    Flip that dude over an dyou got some clouds!!! : ) 

Bob I dont even know what a BCR is.........................

Jim

Jim

The NW bought the NP in 1964 that’s all I know about it I know they had a yard in Edwardsville Il (E St.Louis) area I got there all the time one day I’m going to fine that yard. Thanks for the complement 

Lee, can't flip it. I notch it on the one side to go under the paneling..............Paul

Sun was shining so I made my way to the garage to use the bandsaw. I first tried a box knife the foam is a bit on the harder side. So hence the bandsaw. I only needed a half inch of height. Glad I used the bandsaw it was quicker. I now have them glued together. I'll have to see what I have in the line of paint to color the stone abutements. Maybe later I'll start cutting out the plywood. Any ideas on what color is the best for the abutments and also the bridge shoes. The shoes are just cast with no color. Thanks. Pics.............Paul

paul 2 posted:

Sun was shining so I made my way to the garage to use the bandsaw. I first tried a box knife the foam is a bit on the harder side. So hence the bandsaw. I only needed a half inch of height. Glad I used the bandsaw it was quicker. I now have them glued together. I'll have to see what I have in the line of paint to color the stone abutements. Maybe later I'll start cutting out the plywood. Any ideas on what color is the best for the abutments and also the bridge shoes. The shoes are just cast with no color. Thanks. Pics.............Paul

Paul most of the bridge shoes Ive seen are either black or silver.  If you youtube check on "whats neat this week" and two episodes ago he colored some roadway that I think would look good on those abutments. 

Lee the reason I ask is the NP engine #630 I think is said to have been a Southern engine on loan or lease to the NP?

Jim

Bob, PS1 can be tricky to startup. I have a few of them and they run great. 

1. Charge up the BCR the first time you run the engine for the day. I usually let it sit at 12 - 15 volts for about a minute. 
2. Turn the power off and wait for the engine to completely turn off. You should hear the engine burp when it's reset.
3. Bring the power up to Below 10 Volts (I use ~8V). Then hit the direction button to go forward. You can now raise the voltage. If the startup voltage was too high, you will hear the clang sound to indicate the engine is in reset and it will not run.

Once you get the knack of it, it's not bad. Good Luck.

Pat Kn posted:

Bob, PS1 can be tricky to startup. I have a few of them and they run great. 

1. Charge up the BCR the first time you run the engine for the day. I usually let it sit at 12 - 15 volts for about a minute. 
2. Turn the power off and wait for the engine to completely turn off. You should hear the engine burp when it's reset.
3. Bring the power up to Below 10 Volts (I use ~8V). Then hit the direction button to go forward. You can now raise the voltage. If the startup voltage was too high, you will hear the clang sound to indicate the engine is in reset and it will not run.

Once you get the knack of it, it's not bad. Good Luck.

Thanks Pat- this is very helpful to a Proto-newbie. I know for sure that I was expecting it to perform like a typical throttle-controlled engine and take off when power was applied. I will try your procedure tonight.

Bob

Looks good, Adriatic.

Uhm, what's the story?

Paul, The backdrop and the abutments look great!  I'll look forward to seeing it all come together!

Bob, Pat is right about the PS1.  It can be finicky, but then you get the knack.

Sneaky preview; there is a community barn build thread this month. I had cut some lumber out of boredom and recalled it, so started building. I'm not even sure I'm playin' by the rules so this is just the tip of my plans. It will take about 3-4 more of these to finish, or one more if downsized.

Using the highly specialized tools pictured below, I successfully removed the name plaques, etc. from the beautiful, shiny Santa Fe "Super Chief" cars that will be used to make a Texas Special train.  Here is one of the four:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

HIGHLY SPECIALIZED TOOLS:

Still some trace adhesive remains; I'll get to it in the a.m.

I hope no one is even mildly disturbed/bothered that I'm going to paint these still popular cars. I'm the third owner of the four SF cars that I have and a couple were already missing plaques that were not available from LIONEL for replacement, and had seen a lot of use.

EDIT:  Forgot to give props to PaperTRW for advising me to use the hair dryer.

Operation: Little Mitch continues with my fabricating bosses from Plastruct:  

The fit is nearly perfect! 

The end steps will need to be trimmed to clear the carbody,  but the floor and the bottom of the shell line up just fine! 

Note to @Walter Matuch:  I'm using an RMT GG-1 chassis for this project.  If you can lease the tooling for Lionel's EP-5 and add bosses in the right spots,  this could be a whole new product line for you!  Imagine having New Haven, Milwaukee Road, CNW et cetera locos with something approaching a prototypical chassis!   

Mitch 

Nice Mitch- make sure you get a piece of the royalties!

Took some pics around the layout 

Looks good Lee. That NPR Torpedo is sharp!

Great work Lee!

Andy

Vincent, Mark, Bob and Andy thanks for the complements I’m having so much fun with this layout. I hope to start some bench work next weekend I’m adding another 4x8 section stay tuned. 

Lee some awesome stuff you got there.   Really like all the trucks, trailers, and equipment!   

Mitch that engine is cool!  Does it run as good as it looks?   

Mike G whats happening?    Aint seen nothing from you in a day or two?  Hope everything is OK. 

Not having a great evening.   So I am going to the train room to clear my mind!  

Jim 

RSJB18 posted:

Pat Kn posted:

Bob, PS1 can be tricky to startup. I have a few of them and they run great. 

1. Charge up the BCR the first time you run the engine for the day. I usually let it sit at 12 - 15 volts for about a minute. 
2. Turn the power off and wait for the engine to completely turn off. You should hear the engine burp when it's reset.
3. Bring the power up to Below 10 Volts (I use ~8V). Then hit the direction button to go forward. You can now raise the voltage. If the startup voltage was too high, you will hear the clang sound to indicate the engine is in reset and it will not run.

Once you get the knack of it, it's not bad. Good Luck.

Thanks Pat- this is very helpful to a Proto-newbie. I know for sure that I was expecting it to perform like a typical throttle-controlled engine and take off when power was applied. I will try your procedure tonight.

Bob

So the engine lives! But apparently it doesn't like a CW-80. I put it on the layout with my KW and it took off, bell rings, horn works. More to learn about PS-1 but it runs.

Now if you will excuse me- I will be dragging my POS CW-80 down the street behind my car!

Bob

Bob, Oh yes, a CW80 doesn’t have enough to run it.  Do you have breakers on the output of the KW?

RSJB18 posted:

So the engine lives! But apparently it doesn't like a CW-80. I put it on the layout with my KW and it took off, bell rings, horn works. More to learn about PS-1 but it runs.

Now if you will excuse me- I will be dragging my POS CW-80 down the street behind my car!

Bob

Please be sure and post pictures...   

I unhooked my 2 CW80s which gave me no problems.   And put them in a drawer of my tool box.  Replaced them with 2 72w DC power packs!   Since I made the layout bigger I'm going to isolate about 1/3 of the 2 main lines and hook up 2 54w DC power packs!  I know its not mainstream to do that but Lionel said it may double or triple the life of my LC and LC+ engines. I run the 72s with the center rail isolated but with all the ground side (outside rails) of the track connected.  I plan to do the same with the 54s.  I hope it works out lol … And hey its fun to be the odd duck now and then : )     

Jim 

RSJB18 posted:

RSJB18 posted:

Pat Kn posted:

Bob, PS1 can be tricky to startup. I have a few of them and they run great. 

1. Charge up the BCR the first time you run the engine for the day. I usually let it sit at 12 - 15 volts for about a minute. 
2. Turn the power off and wait for the engine to completely turn off. You should hear the engine burp when it's reset.
3. Bring the power up to Below 10 Volts (I use ~8V). Then hit the direction button to go forward. You can now raise the voltage. If the startup voltage was too high, you will hear the clang sound to indicate the engine is in reset and it will not run.

Once you get the knack of it, it's not bad. Good Luck.

Thanks Pat- this is very helpful to a Proto-newbie. I know for sure that I was expecting it to perform like a typical throttle-controlled engine and take off when power was applied. I will try your procedure tonight.

Bob

So the engine lives! But apparently it doesn't like a CW-80. I put it on the layout with my KW and it took off, bell rings, horn works. More to learn about PS-1 but it runs.

Now if you will excuse me- I will be dragging my POS CW-80 down the street behind my car!

Bob

Yes Bob I have seen this mentioned in the forum regarding the cw80 compatibility, or, not.

John d.

carsntrains posted:

Mitch that engine is cool!  Does it run as good as it looks?   

Once I sawed the tops of the steps off, yes! 

Interestingly enough, with no heavy die-cast shell up top,  the GG-1 chassis seems to actually track more smoothly!   

Norma and Sylvia were enjoying the show... 

When Norma lies around town,  she REALLY lies around town! 

Mitch 

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

carsntrains posted:

Mitch that engine is cool!  Does it run as good as it looks?   

Once I sawed the tops of the steps off, yes! 

Interestingly enough, with no heavy die-cast shell up top,  the GG-1 chassis seems to actually track more smoothly!   

Mitch 

 

Nice work, Mitch... but the engine looks totally naked with pants   Sorry - couldn’t resist.

Apples55 posted:

Nice work, Mitch... but the engine looks totally naked without pants  Sorry - couldn’t resist.

TIFI.   

Incidentally,  if anybody has some spare pantographs, please drop me a line!   Thanks!  

Mitch 

John, I admire your painting skill, as well as your patience.

I'm afraid that I use Playmobile, Lego, and Lego knock-offs for my figures.

Mitch, that's fascinating video. I like the trains and my wife likes the cat.

But please help out the new guy. Why does cutting off the top of the steps make the loco run smoother?  

Vincent Massi posted:

Mitch, that's fascinating video. I like the trains and my wife likes the cat.

 

But please help out the new guy. Why does cutting off the top of the steps make the loco run smoother?  

Makes for smoother cornering,  as the steps don't bump into the loco body.  

Despite their going together nicely,  I've actually mounted the body from a Lionel EP-5 onto the chassis of an RMT GG-1.  So, this is a sort of Frankenloco.  

Mitch