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Got a bunch done today!   No more shelving filled with decorations at one end!  No more wiring, outlets, or light switches hanging from the ceiling (thanks to my electrician Brother!).  Notch cut into existing wall for rock hangover. Have a few spots of drywall to patch. But it sure is nice to have that wiring from the torn down wall gone!   

Mike G. This is the area that needs the lift bridge.   Where the Wabash passenger train is. 

Oh and Lowes has Utilitech LEDs on sale for 11.88 for 8!   Got me a box when we went to get electrical box and supplies.  

Jim : )

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Backed out linkage rod screw StFe Berk 1-19-18Crosshead guides seperation St Fe BerkERR Cruise M and new can in StFe Berk installed 2012StFe Berk front disassembly 1-19-18Had to work on repairs to my K Line St Fe Berkshire.   I had installed the ERR CruiseM and a new can motor in 2012, so the inner workings are familiar, and easy to work on.  A main drive rod bolt had loosened and backed out to where it locked up when caught in the linkage.  A matter of time and some effort, she running right as rain, again.  Still need to do upgrade on the smoke unit, and chuffs, however.

Jesse   TCA   12-68275

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Thanks, Mark.  Really like running the Berk, pulls good and the ERR Cruise is so much better than the original K Line cruise that quit on me.  As stated, next time I open it up, need to have new fan driven smoke and John's chuff units ready to install.... along with the K Line scale 5344 Hudson, etc.  Really like working on my engines, so long as I can find the time!    LOL!!!

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

RSJB18 posted:
Deuce posted:

It's coming along. Last stretch of O27 will need me to get on the table.  Adding a small bit of trestle to elevate the short extension bridge. Thought I had O31 curve, but it was all O36 so I can't finish the long siding until my O31 comes from Mario's. 

Once the track is complete, it's time to accessorize and then when everything has found a place ... wire underneath the table.20180120_131223

When the remote switches from Apples55 (Thank you, Paul!) arrive, I will pull out the switch at the front of the track and make a siding that connects on both sides to the track.

Deuce- It might just be the angle of the photo but did you check the clearance on the 027 loop where it passes the siding that Thomas is sitting on in the  photo? It looks pretty tight.

Bob

Bob, I'll probably run them tomorrow and check. I think I have enough clearance but if not I have some room on the curves to tighten things up a bit.

Deuce posted:
RSJB18 posted:
Deuce posted:

It's coming along. Last stretch of O27 will need me to get on the table.  Adding a small bit of trestle to elevate the short extension bridge. Thought I had O31 curve, but it was all O36 so I can't finish the long siding until my O31 comes from Mario's. 

Once the track is complete, it's time to accessorize and then when everything has found a place ... wire underneath the table.20180120_131223

When the remote switches from Apples55 (Thank you, Paul!) arrive, I will pull out the switch at the front of the track and make a siding that connects on both sides to the track.

Deuce- It might just be the angle of the photo but did you check the clearance on the 027 loop where it passes the siding that Thomas is sitting on in the  photo? It looks pretty tight.

Bob

Bob, I'll probably run them tomorrow and check. I think I have enough clearance but if not I have some room on the curves to tighten things up a bit.

Yeah that does look tight!    I like that you built the sides up around the layout.   What kind of power are you running?  

Jim 

mike g. posted:

Dave, sure is nice to hear your getting better weather back there! the time it gave you to do some work turned out looking wonderful!

Sam, that is one amazing ore Dock! Did you scratch build it? Not that I am going to, its just great!

John, nice looking cars and thanks for the little video! Its always fun to see others layouts on video!

Thank you, Mike. 

Steamer posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
Apples55 posted:

I don't see it. Based on his avatar, I think Mitch may be King Tut (not sure if he is the pre or post getting whacked on the head with a flower pot version)…

Nonsense!  You never see me going about in a robe and headdress! 

Oh, wait...  ;^.^ 

Mitch 

hmmmmm......

now we know why The Caped Crusaders are lurking about.....

We do indeed.....

2017-02-23 20.33.592017-03-28 20.52.32Spidey too

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Dansgnrr posted:

It has been a busy day for me, I finally got my layout up and running before the end of the year and here are some photos that I got done today and now it up to detail all the changes. 

 

IMG_4427

Well I started out the day with a good cup of coffee, you are looking at a turntable that a friend of mine built for me.

 

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This is the round house and I finally got it light up. Next will do track power. 

 

 

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They layout is four scales and it is "tong in cheek" All High Rail....the N, HO and S are all higher than scale rails. This was a days work, I reconfigured the O Scale track with a mixture of Scale trax and Real trax, HO is Bachmann and N is Kato, and yes the S scale is MTH and Lionel. I had give the real trax to my nephew and it got returned so be the frugal I used it. I am interested in drains of different scales and each scale reminds me of someone that had inspired me into doing trains. It is now ready for detailing. You wounder why I did it well, I wanted to have it done and now I have it running. 

It is a whimsical layout with some force perspective.  In one of the photos there are a picture of two 1/8" scale war ships I built when I was doing that kind of modeling they are both RC and I have had fun running them. 

That looks like one room full of fun. I don't know if i would ever leave

Very nice.

carsntrains posted:
Deuce posted:
RSJB18 posted:
Deuce posted:

It's coming along. Last stretch of O27 will need me to get on the table.  Adding a small bit of trestle to elevate the short extension bridge. Thought I had O31 curve, but it was all O36 so I can't finish the long siding until my O31 comes from Mario's. 

Once the track is complete, it's time to accessorize and then when everything has found a place ... wire underneath the table.20180120_131223

When the remote switches from Apples55 (Thank you, Paul!) arrive, I will pull out the switch at the front of the track and make a siding that connects on both sides to the track.

Deuce- It might just be the angle of the photo but did you check the clearance on the 027 loop where it passes the siding that Thomas is sitting on in the  photo? It looks pretty tight.

Bob

Bob, I'll probably run them tomorrow and check. I think I have enough clearance but if not I have some room on the curves to tighten things up a bit.

Yeah that does look tight!    I like that you built the sides up around the layout.   What kind of power are you running?  

Jim 

Jim,  the inner loop will be run via CW40 that came from a starter set.  If it's not strong enough, I have a MRC Throttlepack. The outer loop is off a CW80 which will also power the accessories.

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Mo985 posted:

I placed my 93.2% complete, scratch built, background building on the layout. It needs some final adjustments (I need to work an uncoupling track in, I can't reach that siding) and, I'm still parusing the Miller billboards to decide what company owns the building.

I know it looks very similar to one of our beloved forum sponsors offerings,  which I did consider, however this one is custom sized to the space I had. And don't they say that "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" ?

I used 3/16" luan, 1/8" hardboard, foam board, and plastic canvas (for the windows).

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I like that building...gives a HUGE idea!!!! (-:

Rick.

Rick Bivins posted:
Mo985 posted:

I placed my 93.2% complete, scratch built, background building on the layout. It needs some final adjustments (I need to work an uncoupling track in, I can't reach that siding) and, I'm still parusing the Miller billboards to decide what company owns the building.

I know it looks very similar to one of our beloved forum sponsors offerings,  which I did consider, however this one is custom sized to the space I had. And don't they say that "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" ?

I used 3/16" luan, 1/8" hardboard, foam board, and plastic canvas (for the windows).

imageimage

I like that building...gives a HUGE idea!!!! (-:

Rick.

Made me think too!   Ive been purchasing houses and stores.  Trains don't service houses, grocery stores, or bars lol  I need some industry!!!   

Jim 

 

Deuce, if the clearances are too tight for overhang it looks like you still have some room to use an additional 1/2 length of Fast track on each short end to move the siding and main line a little closer to the front of the layout or a substitute a 1/2 length of the 027 on each short end  in place of a full 10" length to give more space between to 027 and the fast track siding.  The good thing about adjusting the inner loop is you can always cut you tubular track to the length you want.

Mark, you got to love that plaster cloth! sure make life easier. Sure is going to be really nice when its done, Keep you the great work!

Jesse, Nice engine and glad you got it running again. I haven't got to the point where I want to dig in to any of my engines really, maybe some day!

Thanks for the info Mo. Looks like a good place for a brewery and I hope you have good luck with the Real Estate agent!

Jim things are coming right along! What is the span you have there that you need a lift for?

coach joe posted:

Deuce, if the clearances are too tight for overhang it looks like you still have some room to use an additional 1/2 length of Fast track on each short end to move the siding and main line a little closer to the front of the layout or a substitute a 1/2 length of the 027 on each short end  in place of a full 10" length to give more space between to 027 and the fast track siding.  The good thing about adjusting the inner loop is you can always cut you tubular track to the length you want.

I agree with Coach Joe. Another idea would be to reverse the two switches on the fastrak and have the sidings outside the loop. Might help to have them where little hands can reach without leaning over the main track. This would also allow you to make the sidings a little bit longer.  I did a quick plan in SCARM for you to see.

Bob

Deuce plan

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gandydancer1950 posted:
RSJB18 posted:

Took another one of my K-line diesels apart yesterday and changed the motors to series wiring. Three down two to go.

Bob

Bob, I have two K-Line "speed demons" that I would love to slow down by wiring in series. Is it possible that you could explain the process in layman's terms so that even I could do it? ThanksCVRR 59  

gandydancer- the typical K-line diesel has two motors. The two wires coming off of the reversing board (blue and brown), that feed each of the motor leads (blue and yellow).

What I do is disconnect the 6 wires and clean up  and re-tin the ends. Connect the blue wire from the board to the blue wire on one of the motors. Next I connect the brown wire from the board to the blue wire on the other motor. Finally connect the two yellow motor wires together. The motors in these are installed opposite each other so the need to turn in opposite directions for the loco to move in the right direction.

I use heat-shrink tubing on my connections, tape is ok if that is what you have.

Here is a recent discussion on the topic.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ive-motors-in-series

This is one of my S2's looks like its the same as your NYC.

Bob

2018-01-21 12.00.222018-01-21 12.00.32

 

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mike g. posted:

Mark, you got to love that plaster cloth! sure make life easier. Sure is going to be really nice when its done, Keep you the great work!

Jesse, Nice engine and glad you got it running again. I haven't got to the point where I want to dig in to any of my engines really, maybe some day!

Thanks for the info Mo. Looks like a good place for a brewery and I hope you have good luck with the Real Estate agent!

Jim things are coming right along! What is the span you have there that you need a lift for?

Thank you, Mike!!

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

J,

   Nearing the 1/2 way point on the Construction of the PCRR Train Room, final touches for the Hellgate Bridge and Skirting for the layout were accomplished over the last few days, along with the updated Christmas Bear Tree in front of the fire place.

Things are starting to come together in the new Train Room.

PCRR/Dave

DSCN2433

Dave, Once you got settled in your new home, you have really made considerable progress!  It will be quite a train room when you are "finished"

RSJB18 posted:
gandydancer1950 posted:
RSJB18 posted:

Took another one of my K-line diesels apart yesterday and changed the motors to series wiring. Three down two to go.

Bob

Bob, I have two K-Line "speed demons" that I would love to slow down by wiring in series. Is it possible that you could explain the process in layman's terms so that even I could do it? ThanksCVRR 59  

gandydancer- the typical K-line diesel has two motors. The two wires coming off of the reversing board (blue and brown), that feed each of the motor leads (blue and yellow).

What I do is disconnect the 6 wires and clean up  and re-tin the ends. Connect the blue wire from the board to the blue wire on one of the motors. Next I connect the brown wire from the board to the blue wire on the other motor. Finally connect the two yellow motor wires together. The motors in these are installed opposite each other so the need to turn in opposite directions for the loco to move in the right direction.

I use heat-shrink tubing on my connections, tape is ok if that is what you have.

Here is a recent discussion on the topic.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ive-motors-in-series

This is one of my S2's looks like its the same as your NYC.

Bob

2018-01-21 12.00.222018-01-21 12.00.32

 

Wow Bob waaaay easier than I thought! Thank you very much for your explanation

Today not much done. Errands to run in the morning and this afternoon with the weather being better I had to sweep the driveway to get all the acorns off of it. But once that was out of the way I got to the basement. I brought a couple of Weaver PS-2 discharge hoppers from the attic. Then I got out what cars I had down there and placed them through out the sidings for the future brewery. Going to end up with 2- 3 D buildings with the rest as building flats. Not a tremendous amount of track for storing cars but it will make for some interesting switching. I finished painting the stands to hold the storage tanks and glued them to the base. Then I got some paper and put down all the measurements to see what I will need for flats. This probably the extent of work today. Pics...........Paul

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Mike the way it looks I can get three cars on three of the tracks two cars are each track where the hoppers are siting and one or two cars along the wall down from the end. Around the corner two cars on the one siding and one tank car on the other siding. I think once it is all done I am going to have fun switching cars there. Trying to figure out amount of buildings flats I'll need for this. I have a blower for outside but it stopped working right the last time I used it. I have got to get it fix.............Paul

Mike,  Yep, started working on my train engines when about 8 yrs old, and not always to the best results.   Sooooo... you learn as you grow and have always liked doing things with my hands.  Suppose that was why I chose work as a stevedore and iron worker/rigger/crane operator/truck driver over the years.  Since I no longer rebuild automotive engines, only my own for race, etc., and trannys.. so now back to internals of trains.

Jesse   TCA   12-68275

Again, imitation being the greatest form of flattery, I really enjoyed the recent drainage ditch build by Paul_2, so I thought one would fit perfect in my recent area of concentration.

imageimageimageimage

I used 1/2" foam for the shape, and a piece of "wire loom", the split plastic you put over loose wires to keep them together or prevent chaffing (commonly found in your engine compartment of your vehicle. I had to use epoxy to hold them together, no other glue would work.

I got more roads painted, and for some reason, maybe I shook theses cans better, but this batch came out much darker. Had to put them back in the garage for the night, they're still putting off fumes! 

image

Last thing I got accomplished was to wire "block detection" for my crossing signals. I don't have any IATD's, so I figured this would work just as well. Isolated the inner rails on the curves, starting at the mouth of the portal, and 1/4 way up the bridge. For the bridge, I used my razor saw to cut a 30" pice C of rail in half.  Ran the meter for continuity before and after, and everything looks like it should work out. I'll put the power on it tomorrow. 

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Mo985 posted:

Again, imitation being the greatest form of flattery, I really enjoyed the recent drainage ditch build by Paul_2, so I thought one would fit perfect in my recent area of concentration.

imageimageimageimage

I used 1/2" foam for the shape, and a piece of "wire loom", the split plastic you put over loose wires to keep them together or prevent chaffing (commonly found in your engine compartment of your vehicle. I had to use epoxy to hold them together, no other glue would work.

I got more roads painted, and for some reason, maybe I shook theses cans better, but this batch came out much darker. Had to put them back in the garage for the night, they're still putting off fumes! 

image

Last thing I got accomplished was to wire "block detection" for my crossing signals. I don't have any IATD's, so I figured this would work just as well. Isolated the inner rails on the curves, starting at the mouth of the portal, and 1/4 way up the bridge. For the bridge, I used my razor saw to cut a 30" pice C of rail in half.  Ran the meter for continuity before and after, and everything looks like it should work out. I'll put the power on it tomorrow. 

imageimage

Are you going to paint the culvert gray or silver ?? looks great! 

Jim

Today I cleaned up.   Moved a bunch of track around.   Added these straight pieces to add room to the front of that section. 

Then I added this siding on the long wall so I could park the Wabash there.  Running on DC at the moment so cant run it. 

Don't think I will leave it there.   May move the two mains closer to the wall by adding a straight piece in the middle of the curves.   Would add 40 inches to the main loops (20 each). And put the sidings closer to the station that I plan to put on that side.  The Wabash is nearly 12 feet long so I think the long wall will be the station/yard.  

Jim  

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Last edited by carsntrains

Back to the business at hand. I spent 12 hours over the last two days working on a whole bunch of stuff.

The first thing I did yesterday was install a 2.5 Amp breaker on the Newport panel. In the event of a derailment during switching operations, it will pop a lot faster than the 6 Amp Polyfuse back at the power distribution panel under the layout. I'll be doing this on the other panels too.

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I finished the cardboard for this entire section.

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Then did a couple more rolls of plaster cloth. There's really not much of that left to do here...

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maybe two rolls to finish.

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In the middle of the afternoon I took a trip to Menards, and filled my 15% off bag with a variety of supplies, and three flavors of paint, earth, asphalt and concrete. I also have black, white and brown so I can make small batch variations for different projects.

When I got back, I decided to finish the last little bit of fascia. I swear this is it, there is no more in the entire room.

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Sanded and primed.

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This is the last bit to be primed in the entire room, I swear.

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Done! Next step semi gloss paint. Maybe this week, we'll see.

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I went back over to Hiawatha, and started patching the streets so they can be painted.

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All of this wood is the beginning of some bridge supports. More on this later.

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I got into the earth paint, and started putting down a base coat getting ready for scenery.

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RSJB18 posted:
decoynh posted:
mike g. posted:

Paul, sounds like a great plan! Cant wait to see it all in place! Couldn't wait on a Menards Brewery so I repoed a building and made my own!20170512_07450120170512_07451120170512_07453520170512_074617

I see a Cottage Industry in your future.  Nice job Mike.  How much will these sell for? i'd like mine customized as Sam Adams!

Wait- if your taking orders Yuengling!

Wait a second guy, I only had one building! and it was a gift

mike g. posted:

Paul, sounds like a great plan! Cant wait to see it all in place! Couldn't wait on a Menards Brewery so I repoed a building and made my own!20170512_074501

Mike;

Very nice job. But seems like something is missing. Oh... that's it... no tap. Might I suggest adding a beer distribution system???

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Last edited by Apples55
Mo985 posted:

Again, imitation being the greatest form of flattery, I really enjoyed the recent drainage ditch build by Paul_2, so I thought one would fit perfect in my recent area of concentration.

imageimageimageimage

I used 1/2" foam for the shape, and a piece of "wire loom", the split plastic you put over loose wires to keep them together or prevent chaffing (commonly found in your engine compartment of your vehicle. I had to use epoxy to hold them together, no other glue would work.

I got more roads painted, and for some reason, maybe I shook theses cans better, but this batch came out much darker. Had to put them back in the garage for the night, they're still putting off fumes! 

image

Last thing I got accomplished was to wire "block detection" for my crossing signals. I don't have any IATD's, so I figured this would work just as well. Isolated the inner rails on the curves, starting at the mouth of the portal, and 1/4 way up the bridge. For the bridge, I used my razor saw to cut a 30" pice C of rail in half.  Ran the meter for continuity before and after, and everything looks like it should work out. I'll put the power on it tomorrow. 

imageimage

Mo it sure is nice to see you back at it again! You really come up with some great ideas and when you put them onto the layout they look great!

Apples55 posted:
mike g. posted:

Paul, sounds like a great plan! Cant wait to see it all in place! Couldn't wait on a Menards Brewery so I repoed a building and made my own!20170512_074501

Mike;

Very nice job. But seems like something is missing. Oh... that's it... no tap. Might I suggest adding a beer distribution system???

IMG_0862

Hi Paul I will work on that once I figure out where it will be going and how much room I will have!

The other day on eBay, I found one of these diecast cars in 1/43rd scale. They were made by a company that marked many of them up for Highway Patrol and City police vehicles. This one was a 1941 Ford Tennessee state patrol car. I hadn't seen one for sale in years, and jumped at the first one I finally saw her recently. I got it yesterday, and today I took it apart, hit it with dull coat, then did some very subtle weathering with washes. I figured it probably wouldn't have been washed a lot, but would be a lot more clean than the normal civilian vehicles out on the road at that time. They did a very good job, even recreating the license plates correctly.0121182058-1_resized0121182058a-1_resized0121182058b-1_resized0121182059-1_resized

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Last edited by p51
carsntrains posted:
Mo985 posted:
carsntrains posted: 

Are you going to paint the culvert gray or silver ?? looks great! 

Jim

I'm actually planning to leave it black, similar to this:

image

Oh you must be doing a modern display.  Didn't have plastic back in the day.   Come to think of it not even sure when metal culvert came along?   

If I may interject, gentlemen, your conversation really has me thinking, now, about my own work modeling such a detail. Here is a project I crafted. IMG_5137

Through my modeling, I am pretending they are made of...no wait...what do you think I am modeling that they are made of? And of what circa would they appear to be a product and representative?IMG_5138

FrankM

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Moonson posted:
carsntrains posted:
Mo985 posted:
carsntrains posted: 

Are you going to paint the culvert gray or silver ?? looks great! 

Jim

I'm actually planning to leave it black, similar to this:

image

Oh you must be doing a modern display.  Didn't have plastic back in the day.   Come to think of it not even sure when metal culvert came along?   

If I may interject, gentlemen, your conversation really has me thinking, now, about my own work modeling such a detail. Here is a project I crafted. IMG_5137

Through my modeling, I am pretending they are made of...no wait...what do you think I am modeling that they are made of? And of what circa would they appear to be a product and representative?IMG_5138

FrankM

Frank,

Id guess they are supposed to be concrete, however with just the picture provided, to me it look like the top of a plastic cup, I order to get that size diameter. 

The conversation about culverts hits home.  I have a hole cut out in my roadbed on my diorama, but haven’t decided how to finish it.  Since all my equipment is steam diesel transition era, I want what would be there in about 1950, meaning it was built well before.  At first I thought concrete culvert pipe.  Then I thought of putting in a box culvert of stone or concrete.  Maybe concrete since the tunnel portal is stone to give some variety.

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Mo985 posted:

Frank,..Id guess they are supposed to be concrete, however with just the picture provided, to me it look like the top of a plastic cup, I order to get that size diameter. 

Yes, that's what I had hoped the larger one would model, the look of cement/concrete. It is a piece of a cardboard tube around which a roll of carpeting had been wrapped. It cut neatly with a small hacksaw so my imagination was piqued and I tried my best using it.

IMG_5138 [2)

The smaller tube is a piece of plastic tubing, perhaps as wide in diameter as a quarter, also trying to be cement/concrete-looking.

IMG_5162 [2)

Both got painted with a cement/concrete-colored acrylic. by dabbing the color on, not brushing.IMG_5137 [2)

FrankM

P.S. And Mark, given Paul's suggestion to you, above, about considering modeling a concrete culvert, perhaps, these photos may offer you a reference point, too?

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Last edited by Moonson
mike g. posted:
RSJB18 posted:
decoynh posted:
mike g. posted:

Paul, sounds like a great plan! Cant wait to see it all in place! Couldn't wait on a Menards Brewery so I repoed a building and made my own!20170512_07450120170512_07451120170512_07453520170512_074617

I see a Cottage Industry in your future.  Nice job Mike.  How much will these sell for? i'd like mine customized as Sam Adams!

Wait- if your taking orders Yuengling!

Wait a second guy, I only had one building! and it was a gift

LOL!

Mark Boyce posted:

The conversation about culverts hits home.  I have a hole cut out in my roadbed on my diorama, but haven’t decided how to finish it.  Since all my equipment is steam diesel transition era, I want what would be there in about 1950, meaning it was built well before.  At first I thought concrete culvert pipe.  Then I thought of putting in a box culvert of stone or concrete.  Maybe concrete since the tunnel portal is stone to give some variety.

EDB6DCF0-165B-4DA9-866A-F3E44AF2E532

Here you go Mark.

Image result for old concrete culvert drain

Rick Bivins posted:
carsntrains posted:

I see lots of folks painting backdrops.   All of them look good!  What color blue are you guys using?   I see digistew on youtube used Montana sky.  

Jim

Jim,

I used a $4.00 gallon miss-tint blue from Lowes!!! The paint code is on the can should I need more.

Rick.

Cool! The Montana sky is bear and im sure its 5 times that price lol

Jim

RSJB18 posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

The conversation about culverts hits home.  I have a hole cut out in my roadbed on my diorama, but haven’t decided how to finish it.  Since all my equipment is steam diesel transition era, I want what would be there in about 1950, meaning it was built well before.  At first I thought concrete culvert pipe.  Then I thought of putting in a box culvert of stone or concrete.  Maybe concrete since the tunnel portal is stone to give some variety.

EDB6DCF0-165B-4DA9-866A-F3E44AF2E532

Here you go Mark.

Image result for old concrete culvert drain

Bob,  That one looks great!!  It is certainly the right vintage and has some character!

carsntrains posted:

I see lots of folks painting backdrops.   All of them look good!  What color blue are you guys using?   I see digistew on youtube used Montana sky.  

Jim

Here's what I did (I swear.) I went to the paint store and selected a whole range of blue samples, nearly every one they had. Then, I went outside and held them up, one-by-one, to the sky. The one that blended-in with the bright-blue clear sky of that day was what I had mixed and bought and used. Here are examples of the results>>>IMG_0851

IMG_1078

FrankM

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Last edited by Moonson

Hey ya'all. Since my last post here, I've made several workings to the 12x10 shelf layout as noted below. Also, I introduced RC jr to menards "O" gauge stuff via text. Two days later, He text's me from his local Menards (Toledo) with a pic of the Morton Salt building saying "Look what I just got for half price", because it was the display model & 15% off day! I said, "Oh, my grandson is gonna love this" & He say's, "No, Dad, This is for YOU!" Dang, I think we can fit it in on the wide portion of the lower level & wire it thru the AIU as a center piece based on preliminary measurements. Here's what I have done;

Started a test version of a backdrop using neon blue poster board (I know it sounds kinda chinsey as opposed to facia), but taking into consideration it's a shelf layout & with multiple grades it seemed more logistical. It not only gives a nice color enhancement with the lcd lighting, hides brackets & some wiring & could be hand painted for ground effect. 

IMG_20180120_231506[1]

Also, if I decide to change to facia next year, the poster board could be used as a pattern for cutting the angles & grades. So, I'm headed back to Pat Catans for enough to go all the way around. Another test area, the wall in craneville where I have been playing with scenery & ballast, I tried the poster board in black and love it! So, I'm going to do the entire lower level backdrop the same way, giving it a Dark night effect.

IMG_20180122_102757[1]IMG_20180122_102810[1]

As seen in that photo, I painted the shelf underside in preparation for that. here's the wide area I hope the Morton salt will fit into once it gets here.

IMG_20180122_102831[1]

Also, the 5 amp re-settable breakers made it from china. I installed them along with some buss & wiring improvements; a breaker on each of the 3 track circuits  & 1 on Acc circuit fed with a brick. They so far, they function perfectly, but I did notice that I have to knock the track circuit down with the AIU before re-setting as they cause the units to restart in conventional mode. This is probably for the best anyway so as not to re set under load.

IMG_20180122_102849[1]

IMG_20180120_230923[1]

Needed something to keep me out of the mower shop for another month anyway ( getting some warm days in between cold spells) & this should do it without breaking the bank.

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  • IMG_20180122_102849[1]
  • IMG_20180120_230923[1]
  • IMG_20180120_231030[1]
carsntrains posted:
Rick Bivins posted:
carsntrains posted:

I see lots of folks painting backdrops.   All of them look good!  What color blue are you guys using?   I see digistew on youtube used Montana sky.  

Jim

Jim,

I used a $4.00 gallon miss-tint blue from Lowes!!! The paint code is on the can should I need more.

Rick.

Cool! The Montana sky is bear and im sure its 5 times that price lol

Jim

I'm a big fan of the miss-tint shelf. Every single trip to Home Depot or Lowe's I check. I grab just about any blue or earth tone they have.  I usually get small buckets for 3-5 bucks. 

I think that classifies as a #Scrounge. Would you agree @M. Mitchell Marmel?

Mark Boyce posted:
RSJB18 posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

The conversation about culverts hits home.  I have a hole cut out in my roadbed on my diorama, but haven’t decided how to finish it.  Since all my equipment is steam diesel transition era, I want what would be there in about 1950, meaning it was built well before.  At first I thought concrete culvert pipe.  Then I thought of putting in a box culvert of stone or concrete.  Maybe concrete since the tunnel portal is stone to give some variety.

EDB6DCF0-165B-4DA9-866A-F3E44AF2E532

Here you go Mark.

Image result for old concrete culvert drain

Bob,  That one looks great!!  It is certainly the right vintage and has some character!

just the right mix of weeds, muck, and trash

RSJB18 posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

The conversation about culverts hits home.  I have a hole cut out in my roadbed on my diorama, but haven’t decided how to finish it.  Since all my equipment is steam diesel transition era, I want what would be there in about 1950, meaning it was built well before.  At first I thought concrete culvert pipe.  Then I thought of putting in a box culvert of stone or concrete.  Maybe concrete since the tunnel portal is stone to give some variety.

EDB6DCF0-165B-4DA9-866A-F3E44AF2E532

Here you go Mark.

Image result for old concrete culvert drain

The perfect solution including the old tire, weeds and mud flats.   For what it's worth, my vote is yes!

Dave

Last edited by darlander

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