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briansilvermustang posted:
mike g. posted:
Adriatic posted:

IMG_20180210_233914

LOL thanks for the idea! Brian is right about the coors, but that's a lot of kegs!

                                YEP...better stick to the 12 oz. versions...

                            cheers MIKE !!      https://vimeo.com/33767124

Was that beer or LSD in that beer can in the warped picture?

Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari
RSJB18 posted:

Finished the lights and trucks on my PRR RPO car. Still need to find new couplers.2018-02-11 13.24.52

Bob;

Nice job. That was my first set of passenger cars back in the 70's - still have the whole set packed up somewhere in the basement. Found the last car - the observation car - in a little train store in Quebec City when I was there on vacation for the Carnival.

Are you planning on finding the original style dummy couplers??? When I first bought the cars, it didn't matter much, but as time went on, they really annoyed me - especially when going in reverse.

Decided to run to Lowe's this time to get things I was running low on. More white glue, 5/16 washers, 5/16 X 3 Hex bolts. I did manage to find some brackets in the shelving department that will work to hold the legs I placed under the two sections that the bridge abutments are on. I will have to modify them a bit but they will give the legs a second point of support. Taking my time I was able to peel off the wax paper what I made up last night. I put one up. The glue I used is more like the adhesive that comes with the credit cards so if I do not like the look of it I can take it off with no problem or damage. While I am on the computer I might as well place my order with Ross so I can work on the grain elevator area and where I was going to first place it. Tomorrow I want to put together more Weaver TOFC flat cars and wood chip hoppers but first I have to go to Ace to get more of the screws that hold the trucks on the bodies. Open to suggestions since this is my first time trying this. Pic of the vegetation...................Paul

DSCN1431

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Apples55 posted:
RSJB18 posted:

Finished the lights and trucks on my PRR RPO car. Still need to find new couplers.2018-02-11 13.24.52

Bob;

Nice job. That was my first set of passenger cars back in the 70's - still have the whole set packed up somewhere in the basement. Found the last car - the observation car - in a little train store in Quebec City when I was there on vacation for the Carnival.

Are you planning on finding the original style dummy couplers??? When I first bought the cars, it didn't matter much, but as time went on, they really annoyed me - especially when going in reverse.

Paul (apples) you have passenger cars packed away in boxes??   That's choo choo abuse!  LOL  I have some in plastic totes and I feel guilty!!! 

Jim 

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
RSJB18 posted:

Finished the lights and trucks on my PRR RPO car. Still need to find new couplers.

 

Train Tender can fix you up.  

Mitch 

Mitch;

Close, but no cigar   Here is a pic of one of my original cars (from '74 - '76) with the dummy coupler (actually the one I picked up in Quebec). Like me, the coupler is a total dummy, and it is 2 1/4" long:

IMG_1060

I found the diner car which apparently was from '88, and it had a coupler with the thumb tack, but it was mounted to the truck, and was close to 2 3/4" and had two plastic tabs which kind of kept the coupler centered:

IMG_1062

Bob's is of the earlier vintage, so, without digging further into the tubs, I would assume that the replacement part you found would not work - note in the first photo how close the knuckle is to the end of the car.

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carsntrains posted:
Apples55 posted:
RSJB18 posted:
 

Paul (apples) you have passenger cars packed away in boxes??   That's choo choo abuse!  LOL  I have some in plastic totes and I feel guilty!!! 

Jim 

Jim;

In the words of that great British philosopher and philanthropist, Ebenezer Scrooge, 

IMG_0787

And I said it recently, and I'll say it again, there is no such thing as O-gauge guilt!!!

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Apples55 posted:
carsntrains posted:
Apples55 posted:
RSJB18 posted:
 

Paul (apples) you have passenger cars packed away in boxes??   That's choo choo abuse!  LOL  I have some in plastic totes and I feel guilty!!! 

Jim 

Jim;

In the words of that great British philosopher and philanthropist, Ebenezer Scrooge, 

IMG_0787

And I said it recently, and I'll say it again, there is no such thing as O-gauge guilt!!!

Jim, Paul reproved me last week for claiming to be guilty, now he has enlisted this famous personage to reprove you!  

Paul, We stand "guilty" as charged!  

Apples55 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
RSJB18 posted:

Finished the lights and trucks on my PRR RPO car. Still need to find new couplers.

 

Train Tender can fix you up.  

Mitch 

Mitch;

Close, but no cigar   Here is a pic of one of my original cars (from '74 - '76) with the dummy coupler (actually the one I picked up in Quebec). Like me, the coupler is a total dummy, and it is 2 1/4" long:

IMG_1060

I found the diner car which apparently was from '88, and it had a coupler with the thumb tack, but it was mounted to the truck, and was close to 2 3/4" and had two plastic tabs which kind of kept the coupler centered:

IMG_1062

Bob's is of the earlier vintage, so, without digging further into the tubs, I would assume that the replacement part you found would not work - note in the first photo how close the knuckle is to the end of the car.

These cars have oddball couplers for sure. I have some 2" thumbtack couplers but they are a little short. If I can find the really long ones from some passenger cars they should work. They don't even have springs to keep them centered.

Don't know why Lionel is so infatuated with dummy couplers.

Thanks for the assistance guys😁

Apples55 posted:

Mitch;

Close, but no cigar  Here is a pic of one of my original cars (from '74 - '76) with the dummy coupler (actually the one I picked up in Quebec). Like me, the coupler is a total dummy, and it is 2 1/4" long:

IMG_1060

(nodnods) I expect that Train Tender has those in stock as well; don't know the part number off the top of my head. 

Mitch 

 
RSJB18 posted:

These cars have oddball couplers for sure. I have some 2" thumbtack couplers but they are a little short. If I can find the really long ones from some passenger cars they should work. They don't even have springs to keep them centered.

Don't know why Lionel is so infatuated with dummy couplers.

Thanks for the assistance guys😁

Bob;

While putting the cars I photograph back in their boxes, I found something interesting... there was a small envelope in the observation car box with a spare coupler and screw - I assume that is in case you want to add one to the back of the car. If you want it, shoot me an address and I'll send it on during the week.

Apples55 posted:

While putting the cars I photograph back in their boxes, I found something interesting... there was a small envelope in the observation car box with a spare coupler and screw - I assume that is in case you want to add one to the back of the car. If you want it, shoot me an address and I'll send it on during the week.

There should be a part number on the coupler.  What is it?  I wanna order a few of those from TT myself... 

Mitch 

Another building in the works. This is going to be part of a double connect plant complex that are on opposite sides of my double main line above my turntable area. This building will be perched upon the cliff side above the TT. Then there is going to be one multi floor man bridge or a multiple bridge spanning over the tracks connecting to the other plant . This is another Chooch Ultra Scale ll front ( Graham building) . These will tower above the level below and the man bridge(s) will obscure the viewer from seeing down the tracks into the corner of my layout. I am going to make these building into the Remington arms factory.

After washing the front to get rid of the mold release, I trimmed off all the flash from openings etc. I planned on using the brick fill pieces provided for walling up some of the windows but they are smaller than the openings. So I had to glue some styrene pieces to the back of the wall to hold the brick pieces in. Also the center door did not have a brick piece so I had to create one with some styrene brick sheet.

Lots of work yet to finish.

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_2.jpg

I am thinking of maybe doing the brick like this bldg.

Here are some photos of the man bridges I am getting ideas from, this is the Remington factory

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

and here are some other factories

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

Last edited by CSX Al
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
Apples55 posted:

While putting the cars I photograph back in their boxes, I found something interesting... there was a small envelope in the observation car box with a spare coupler and screw - I assume that is in case you want to add one to the back of the car. If you want it, shoot me an address and I'll send it on during the week.

There should be a part number on the coupler.  What is it?  I wanna order a few of those from TT myself... 

Mitch 

Part of me wants to ask why, but I think I know better by now   

On the top it say 9500-18.

I set in place on my cork floor empire the inexpensive people I glued to plastic strips. Most of this first batch of 100 are waiting passengers. The next batch that arrives I’ll group in conversation groupings and put them around the town and at the carnival. Final step in populating the town will be a few batches of specialty persons. But the cheap folk have worked really well, and I don’t mind the duplication. 55A90695-CD37-4FA5-872A-4B93D2E41B0D

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CSX Al posted:

Another building in the works. This is going to be part of a double connect plant complex that are on opposite sides of my double main line above my turntable area. This building will be perched upon the cliff side above the TT. Then there is going to be one multi floor man bridge or a multiple bridge spanning over the tracks connecting to the other plant . This is another Chooch Ultra Scale ll front ( Graham building) . These will tower above the level below and the man bridge(s) will obscure the viewer from seeing down the tracks into the corner of my layout. I am going to make these building into the Remington arms factory.

After washing the front to get rid of the mold release, I trimmed off all the flash from openings etc. I planned on using the brick fill pieces provided for walling up some of the windows but they are smaller than the openings. So I had to glue some styrene pieces to the back of the wall to hold the brick pieces in. Also the center door did not have a brick piece so I had to create one with some styrene brick sheet.

Lots of work yet to finish.

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_2.jpg

I am thinking of maybe doing the brick like this bldg.

Here are some photos of the man bridges I am getting ideas from, this is the Remington factory

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

and here are some other factories

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

like your choice of brick color

Constructed a new railing for the East end trolley station platform this past week.  Made it from 3/64” hollow brass tubing purchased from Hobby Lobby.  Made a profile pattern of the platform then drew up a layout plan on a piece of wood that I taped the brass pieces to for soldering.   Brass is so easy to work with as it solders up so quick; no need to wait for glue to dry as you would with wood or plastic.  Cutting off the heads of straight pins and inserted into the tubing made it easy to install the railing to the styrofoam i.e. concrete platform.  The railing was soldered up, washed, primed, painted and installed all within a days time.

I have also added some signage to the taconite plant buildings in addition to beginning some chalk weathering.   I found appropriate signage on the internet that I sized on the computer and printed.   Next project will be to power up the plant facilities lights.         

It is still too cold in the garage to do much scenic work on the summit so that will have to wait a few more weeks.   Yesterday I ordered a couple of CAT Dump Trucks in 1/94 scale from TrainWorld to work at the plant.

Railing brass from Hobby Lobby

DSC02289

Railing layout board and completed railing

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Test fit

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Washed and primed

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Finish coat with mounting pins

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Installed and awaiting the trolley

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Arrival of inaugural trolley

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Entrance and directional sign to Minntac taconite plant on Mt. Iron

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Plant welcome sign board and the start of weathering

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Left is the administration building

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Now I am in need of some warmer weather!

Dave

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Last edited by darlander
pdxtrains posted:

I set in place on my cork floor empire the inexpensive people I glued to plastic strips. Most of this first batch of 100 are waiting passengers. The next batch that arrives I’ll group in conversation groupings and put them around the town and at the carnival. Final step in populating the town will be a few batches of specialty persons. But the cheap folk have worked really well, and I don’t mind the duplication. 55A90695-CD37-4FA5-872A-4B93D2E41B0D

I used some of those Chinese figures on my layout also....mostly in the background. They look very nice in small groups as if conversing with one another.

paul 2 posted:

Decided to run to Lowe's this time to get things I was running low on. More white glue, 5/16 washers, 5/16 X 3 Hex bolts. I did manage to find some brackets in the shelving department that will work to hold the legs I placed under the two sections that the bridge abutments are on. I will have to modify them a bit but they will give the legs a second point of support. Taking my time I was able to peel off the wax paper what I made up last night. I put one up. The glue I used is more like the adhesive that comes with the credit cards so if I do not like the look of it I can take it off with no problem or damage. While I am on the computer I might as well place my order with Ross so I can work on the grain elevator area and where I was going to first place it. Tomorrow I want to put together more Weaver TOFC flat cars and wood chip hoppers but first I have to go to Ace to get more of the screws that hold the trucks on the bodies. Open to suggestions since this is my first time trying this. Pic of the vegetation...................Paul

DSCN1431

Good hide!

gandydancer1950 posted:
pdxtrains posted:

I set in place on my cork floor empire the inexpensive people I glued to plastic strips. Most of this first batch of 100 are waiting passengers. The next batch that arrives I’ll group in conversation groupings and put them around the town and at the carnival. Final step in populating the town will be a few batches of specialty persons. But the cheap folk have worked really well, and I don’t mind the duplication. 55A90695-CD37-4FA5-872A-4B93D2E41B0D

I used some of those Chinese figures on my layout also....mostly in the background. They look very nice in small groups as if conversing with one another.

They do look good.  Did you do any touch up to them or are they original?   I have been looking to buy some.   Which do you recommend?

Dave

gandydancer1950 posted:
CSX Al posted:

Another building in the works. This is going to be part of a double connect plant complex that are on opposite sides of my double main line above my turntable area. This building will be perched upon the cliff side above the TT. Then there is going to be one multi floor man bridge or a multiple bridge spanning over the tracks connecting to the other plant . This is another Chooch Ultra Scale ll front ( Graham building) . These will tower above the level below and the man bridge(s) will obscure the viewer from seeing down the tracks into the corner of my layout. I am going to make these building into the Remington arms factory.

After washing the front to get rid of the mold release, I trimmed off all the flash from openings etc. I planned on using the brick fill pieces provided for walling up some of the windows but they are smaller than the openings. So I had to glue some styrene pieces to the back of the wall to hold the brick pieces in. Also the center door did not have a brick piece so I had to create one with some styrene brick sheet.

Lots of work yet to finish.

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_2.jpg

I am thinking of maybe doing the brick like this bldg.

Here are some photos of the man bridges I am getting ideas from, this is the Remington factory

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

and here are some other factories

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

http://www.studiozphoto.com/RemingtonPlantBldg2_1.jpg

like your choice of brick color

The last 3 buildings remind me of home (not the foreign writing) lol   

Jim 

darlander posted:
gandydancer1950 posted:
pdxtrains posted:

I set in place on my cork floor empire the inexpensive people I glued to plastic strips. Most of this first batch of 100 are waiting passengers. The next batch that arrives I’ll group in conversation groupings and put them around the town and at the carnival. Final step in populating the town will be a few batches of specialty persons. But the cheap folk have worked really well, and I don’t mind the duplication. 55A90695-CD37-4FA5-872A-4B93D2E41B0D

I used some of those Chinese figures on my layout also....mostly in the background. They look very nice in small groups as if conversing with one another.

They do look good.  Did you do any touch up to them or are they original?   I have been looking to buy some.   Which do you recommend?

Dave

These are right out of the bag, except I e6000 them to plastic squares cut from a q-tip box!

Apples55 posted:
RSJB18 posted:

These cars have oddball couplers for sure. I have some 2" thumbtack couplers but they are a little short. If I can find the really long ones from some passenger cars they should work. They don't even have springs to keep them centered.

Don't know why Lionel is so infatuated with dummy couplers.

Thanks for the assistance guys😁

Bob;

While putting the cars I photograph back in their boxes, I found something interesting... there was a small envelope in the observation car box with a spare coupler and screw - I assume that is in case you want to add one to the back of the car. If you want it, shoot me an address and I'll send it on during the week.

email sent

Darlander, that sure is one nice looking rail! Its little details like that which bring out a layout!

Anthony K, Man that is a lot of wires and switches! Looks like someone is giving Elliot a run for his money! LOL

PDXTrains, your plat form sure looks great with all the people waiting for the trains! Nice job!

mike g. posted:

Hi everyone, I would replay to everyone's post. But to be honest I am to tired today so all I can say is!

GREAT JOB BY EVERYONE!

I totally hear ya Mike I feel the same way, whipped. Fourteen hours on the layout over the weekend.

Mark - There's nothing like not having a mortgage. I love it!

Thanks to all of those who hit the like button. It seems that scenery is very popular with this crowd, far more than electrical.

I took these this morning, showing yesterday's progress.

I added the embankment along nearly the entire length of the scene.

IMG_8102

I also ballasted a good chunk of the lower track. That's all glued and the rails cleaned.

IMG_8103

Before I added the embankment, I attached some scraps of OSB to the bottom of the roadbed. This will allow me to support the bluff along the backdrop. Haven't decided on the material yet, but there's a good chance it'll be foam. Take pieces of 2" and stand them on edge and do a little carving.

IMG_8105

Here's the long shot looking west.

IMG_8106

This is the long shot looking east, but there's something noteworthy in this one as well. In the lower left, there's a small line of ballast on the upper track. Because the embankment is so steep in that area, due to how close the tracks are, I placed a small line of caulk to act as a ledge to hold the ballast. Eventually there will be some carved rock there.

IMG_8104

Tonight, I might ballast the upper track, down to the far switch. Can't go further than that until I get some kind of dam in there to hold the ballast on the back side. That's an issue I'm frequently fighting.

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mike g. posted:
Adriatic posted:

Looks good Mitch, but I have to wonder .....sketch-1518316046045

I've improved the body of the bench work on Brian's design for Mike too. Running on beer seems to be the wave of the future IMG_20180210_233914

LOL thanks for the idea! Brian is right about the coors, but that's a lot of kegs!

Ninety nine kegs of beer on the floor, ninety nine kegs of beer, roll one out and pass it around...

as long as the layout is still standing, even if the engineer isn't.

Elliot, I should just get a rubber stamp saying looking good LOL. Your forward motion is unreal. The stamina that you show day in and day out just shows your conviction to getting it done. Also how great everything is coming together. You are right about people liking to watch scenery going in rather then electrical. I think the majority of us get anxious on that segment of building, sort of like a last resort putting it off as long as possible. Lazy day for me today I did more surfing the net for stuff and had to make a run to get a ink cartridge because I ran out. I did manage to get the other tunnel portal cover with foliage. I then decided to glue down two sheets of brick. Later I'll mix up some plaster to do that area to the left under the bridge and coming out to the road. Pics...................Paul

DSCN1432DSCN1433

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paul 2 posted:

Elliot, I should just get a rubber stamp saying looking good LOL. Your forward motion is unreal. The stamina that you show day in and day out just shows your conviction to getting it done. Also how great everything is coming together. You are right about people liking to watch scenery going in rather then electrical. I think the majority of us get anxious on that segment of building, sort of like a last resort putting it off as long as possible. Lazy day for me today I did more surfing the net for stuff and had to make a run to get a ink cartridge because I ran out. I did manage to get the other tunnel portal cover with foliage. I then decided to glue down two sheets of brick. Later I'll mix up some plaster to do that area to the left under the bridge and coming out to the road. Pics...................Paul

DSCN1432DSCN1433

Paul .. that look good!  So that is a road tunnel eh?  Looks cool.   Where is that road coming from? 

Jim 

Thanks Jim, as to your question I have no idea. It most certainly goes somewhere and comes from somewhere. When I was doing the upper level road way and was deciding on the flex walls as an after thought I found portals from Chooch that were very close to the height of the walls with a bit of cutting off the bottom and almost match the brick pattern. So the road comes in and out, or will come in and out to a lower level of buildings. A little more rundown area of town. Because of the width I cut the brick both on the upper and lower roadways they will be one way traffic except for the upper road that comes off the end of the table. That would be two way traffic with no parking  allowed.............Paul

carsntrains posted:
paul 2 posted:

Elliot, I should just get a rubber stamp saying looking good LOL. Your forward motion is unreal. The stamina that you show day in and day out just shows your conviction to getting it done. Also how great everything is coming together. You are right about people liking to watch scenery going in rather then electrical. I think the majority of us get anxious on that segment of building, sort of like a last resort putting it off as long as possible. Lazy day for me today I did more surfing the net for stuff and had to make a run to get a ink cartridge because I ran out. I did manage to get the other tunnel portal cover with foliage. I then decided to glue down two sheets of brick. Later I'll mix up some plaster to do that area to the left under the bridge and coming out to the road. Pics...................Paul

DSCN1432DSCN1433

Paul .. that look good!  So that is a road tunnel eh?  Looks cool.   Where is that road coming from? 

Jim 

Come on Jim, if you look to the right you can tell its coming from the laundry Matt!

Looks great Paul, Its nice how you were able to hide the seams, wonderful work!

mike g. posted:
carsntrains posted:
paul 2 posted:

Elliot, I should just get a rubber stamp saying looking good LOL. Your forward motion is unreal. The stamina that you show day in and day out just shows your conviction to getting it done. Also how great everything is coming together. You are right about people liking to watch scenery going in rather then electrical. I think the majority of us get anxious on that segment of building, sort of like a last resort putting it off as long as possible. Lazy day for me today I did more surfing the net for stuff and had to make a run to get a ink cartridge because I ran out. I did manage to get the other tunnel portal cover with foliage. I then decided to glue down two sheets of brick. Later I'll mix up some plaster to do that area to the left under the bridge and coming out to the road. Pics...................Paul

DSCN1432DSCN1433

Paul .. that look good!  So that is a road tunnel eh?  Looks cool.   Where is that road coming from? 

Jim 

Come on Jim, if you look to the right you can tell its coming from the laundry Matt!

Looks great Paul, Its nice how you were able to hide the seams, wonderful work!

OK Mike you got me on that one....   LOL 

Jim 

Big_Boy_4005 posted:
mike g. posted:
Adriatic posted:

Looks good Mitch, but I have to wonder .....sketch-1518316046045

I've improved the body of the bench work on Brian's design for Mike too. Running on beer seems to be the wave of the future IMG_20180210_233914

LOL thanks for the idea! Brian is right about the coors, but that's a lot of kegs!

Ninety nine kegs of beer on the floor, ninety nine kegs of beer, roll one out and pass it around...

as long as the layout is still standing, even if the engineer isn't.

Nice Elliot, I guess I will have to hold off so I make sure the building can stand alone!

Well I did what I said I was going to. After dinner I went down to continue. Before I mixed any plaster I put my Cooter's building down and marked the footprint. After mixing a small batch I started under to overpass and worked my way out stopping at the brick road. I had already glued the brick road down but I decided that since I had some sidewalk left over from doing the upper level I added two pieces to the side Cooter's is on. Glue down the sidewalk, got some pieces of wood, laid them on top and then placed a jar of plaster on top for weight. Then I finished plastering around the footprint. I still had a small amount left so I added to the brewery area in a couple of spots. Tomorrow I'll start adding coloring to the plaster and then later add ground turf. Pics..................Paul

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We're moving right along. Paul hooked me up yet again, so I swapped my old crummy O27 for the better stuff he sent me.

I fixed the other Marx Switch Tower (the brake light tape works well) and moved it to the other side of the track. Got the accessory transformer in place and in phase and I'm ready to run the bus wires.

20180212_204525

I had purchased a couple of blinking yellow LEDs that could be used with the Just Plug system. Broke out one of my Plasticville Signal Bridges and I think it'll look ok. I'm going to hot glue that LED in place.

20180212_220303

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Last edited by Deuce

Today is my Birthday!  52..  So we went and got Mexican for dinner.   Packed the wrongly packaged reindeer cars up to be mailed back to the dealer tomorrow! They sent me a prepaid shipping label today.  As soon as that is refunded I can order the A pack of reindeer cars from a new dealer!  Waiting on the Menards American power, and small feed store to come in.  Interested to see where I'm going to put them : )   

Jim 

Deuce posted:

We're moving right along. Paul hooked me up yet again, so I swapped my old crummy O27 for the better stuff he sent me.

I fixed the other Marx Switch Tower (the brake light tape works well) and moved it to the other side of the track. Got the accessory transformer in place and in phase and I'm ready to run the bus wires.

20180212_204525

I had purchased a couple of blinking yellow LEDs that could be used with the Just Plug system. Broke out one of my Plasticville Signal Bridges and I think it'll look ok. I'm going to hot glue that LED in place.

20180212_220303

20180212_220425

Deuce.  I ran my grounds from transformer to transformer.  Uses a lot less wire.     The went directly from the transformer to the bus wire.   When I ran my last bus, I drilled holes in the bench work big enough to slide wire through.   So when I had to take it apart my dang crimp on ends wouldn't fit through the holes, nor would my solder joints to drops connected to the track from the bus wire.     BOOOO   silly Jim!!   Learned a lesson lol 

Jim 

carsntrains posted:

Today is my Birthday!  52..  So we went and got Mexican for dinner.   Packed the wrongly packaged reindeer cars up to be mailed back to the dealer tomorrow! They sent me a prepaid shipping label today.  As soon as that is refunded I can order the A pack of reindeer cars from a new dealer!  Waiting on the Menards American power, and small feed store to come in.  Interested to see where I'm going to put them : )   

Jim 

Happy birthday

carsntrains posted:
Deuce posted:

We're moving right along. Paul hooked me up yet again, so I swapped my old crummy O27 for the better stuff he sent me.

I fixed the other Marx Switch Tower (the brake light tape works well) and moved it to the other side of the track. Got the accessory transformer in place and in phase and I'm ready to run the bus wires.

20180212_204525

I had purchased a couple of blinking yellow LEDs that could be used with the Just Plug system. Broke out one of my Plasticville Signal Bridges and I think it'll look ok. I'm going to hot glue that LED in place.

20180212_220303

20180212_220425

Deuce.  I ran my grounds from transformer to transformer.  Uses a lot less wire.     The went directly from the transformer to the bus wire.   When I ran my last bus, I drilled holes in the bench work big enough to slide wire through.   So when I had to take it apart my dang crimp on ends wouldn't fit through the holes, nor would my solder joints to drops connected to the track from the bus wire.     BOOOO   silly Jim!!   Learned a lesson lol 

Jim 

carsntrains posted:

Today is my Birthday!  52..  So we went and got Mexican for dinner.   Packed the wrongly packaged reindeer cars up to be mailed back to the dealer tomorrow! They sent me a prepaid shipping label today.  As soon as that is refunded I can order the A pack of reindeer cars from a new dealer!  Waiting on the Menards American power, and small feed store to come in.  Interested to see where I'm going to put them : )   

Jim 

Jim, Happy Birthday! I hope you have a great day with the family and find some time to run trains also!

This morning got downstairs right after breakfast. I wanted to get earth color on the plaster. That will be it till I get back home. It's the second Tuesday of the month and it is getting together with a bunch of others for a lunch. On the way home from that I am going to stop at Hobby Lobby to get some Balsa wood for the grade crossing. I basically have cardboard cut for the templates and I figure that this would be easier to cut in curves then Basswood plus I can stain it wood color for between the tracks and paint the rest concrete color. I tried to find photos of the transition from brick road to  going over the tracks. So far no luck so I will more then likely just used the aged concrete paint. Pics......................Paul

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carsntrains posted:
Arnold D. Cribari posted:

Maybe someone can make a yellow brick road and an animated Judy Garland in O Scale skipping along it.

And make a video playing  ''Goodbye Yellow Brick Road"  : )

Jim

Great idea, but it just so happens that IMHO the greatest song ever written is Over The Rainbow. So I’ll take Teenage Judy singing that over Elton John singing Goodbye Yellow Briick Road.

This is a matter of taste and purely subjective.

carsntrains posted:

Today is my Birthday!  52..  So we went and got Mexican for dinner.   Packed the wrongly packaged reindeer cars up to be mailed back to the dealer tomorrow! They sent me a prepaid shipping label today.  As soon as that is refunded I can order the A pack of reindeer cars from a new dealer!  Waiting on the Menards American power, and small feed store to come in.  Interested to see where I'm going to put them : )   

Jim 

Happy birthday, Jim!

Test ran the new Legacy NW2 switcher, back from warranty repair at "the Lionel dealer".  After about two minutes the grinding got louder, so I stopped it and when I removed it from the rail the rear truck fell off, dangling by the coupler wire.   Called Lionel who said send it to us this time ... and that this "model" is much nosier than the other engines Lionel offers.  At least this time I don't have to pay shipping .... Don't think we'll be buying more ... this is the 5th new engine in a row we've had to immediately send in for repairs.  Enough is enough.

Kerrigan posted:

Test ran the new Legacy NW2 switcher, back from warranty repair at "the Lionel dealer".  After about two minutes the grinding got louder, so I stopped it and when I removed it from the rail the rear truck fell off, dangling by the coupler wire.   Called Lionel who said send it to us this time ... and that this "model" is much nosier than the other engines Lionel offers.  At least this time I don't have to pay shipping .... Don't think we'll be buying more ... this is the 5th new engine in a row we've had to immediately send in for repairs.  Enough is enough.

That’s outrageous.

Kerrigan posted:

Test ran the new Legacy NW2 switcher, back from warranty repair at "the Lionel dealer".  After about two minutes the grinding got louder, so I stopped it and when I removed it from the rail the rear truck fell off, dangling by the coupler wire.   Called Lionel who said send it to us this time ... and that this "model" is much nosier than the other engines Lionel offers.  At least this time I don't have to pay shipping .... Don't think we'll be buying more ... this is the 5th new engine in a row we've had to immediately send in for repairs.  Enough is enough.

Looks like the repair person at the "lionel dealer" would have been aware that those were shipped with screws that were too short that hold the trucks on....... from China.  Ive been fortunate.  I have bought 6 and only one went back because I broke it.  

Knock on wood! 

Jim 

carsntrains posted:
Deuce posted:

We're moving right along. Paul hooked me up yet again, so I swapped my old crummy O27 for the better stuff he sent me.

I fixed the other Marx Switch Tower (the brake light tape works well) and moved it to the other side of the track. Got the accessory transformer in place and in phase and I'm ready to run the bus wires.

20180212_204525

I had purchased a couple of blinking yellow LEDs that could be used with the Just Plug system. Broke out one of my Plasticville Signal Bridges and I think it'll look ok. I'm going to hot glue that LED in place.

20180212_220303

20180212_220425

Deuce.  I ran my grounds from transformer to transformer.  Uses a lot less wire.     The went directly from the transformer to the bus wire.   When I ran my last bus, I drilled holes in the bench work big enough to slide wire through.   So when I had to take it apart my dang crimp on ends wouldn't fit through the holes, nor would my solder joints to drops connected to the track from the bus wire.     BOOOO   silly Jim!!   Learned a lesson lol 

Jim 

Jim, happy birthday!

As for wire ... well, I have a bunch of it. More than I may likely ever need (even after I expand) so a few extra inches won't kill me (or the budget) at the moment.

I didn't do much on the layout today other than wire a few of the accessories prior to drilling holes and getting them under the layout. My issue is what I'm going to do with the controller wires. I think I could slip them under the tracks. That would be "less intrusive". If I drill, the holes will have to be pretty freaking big. I don't feel like drilling a 1/2" hole in the layout (three of them to be exact).

Deuce posted:
carsntrains posted:
Deuce posted:

We're moving right along. Paul hooked me up yet again, so I swapped my old crummy O27 for the better stuff he sent me.

I fixed the other Marx Switch Tower (the brake light tape works well) and moved it to the other side of the track. Got the accessory transformer in place and in phase and I'm ready to run the bus wires.

20180212_204525

I had purchased a couple of blinking yellow LEDs that could be used with the Just Plug system. Broke out one of my Plasticville Signal Bridges and I think it'll look ok. I'm going to hot glue that LED in place.

20180212_220303

20180212_220425

Deuce.  I ran my grounds from transformer to transformer.  Uses a lot less wire.     The went directly from the transformer to the bus wire.   When I ran my last bus, I drilled holes in the bench work big enough to slide wire through.   So when I had to take it apart my dang crimp on ends wouldn't fit through the holes, nor would my solder joints to drops connected to the track from the bus wire.     BOOOO   silly Jim!!   Learned a lesson lol 

Jim 

Jim, happy birthday!

As for wire ... well, I have a bunch of it. More than I may likely ever need (even after I expand) so a few extra inches won't kill me (or the budget) at the moment.

I didn't do much on the layout today other than wire a few of the accessories prior to drilling holes and getting them under the layout. My issue is what I'm going to do with the controller wires. I think I could slip them under the tracks. That would be "less intrusive". If I drill, the holes will have to be pretty freaking big. I don't feel like drilling a 1/2" hole in the layout (three of them to be exact).

I wired mine that way just to keep from having a bunch of wires.    And I may be picky but the first thing I see on a layout is wiring that you can see. 

And cars driving down a road with no people in it lol   Cant find a nice way to say that so I tossed it in here where its not aimed at anybody : )   

Id drill the holes and them fill them with silly putty or something. IMO.  My table tops are going to have a bunch of holes in them lol 

Jim 

Mostly cleanup today. Worked on my small control panel a bit as well. It'll have the three uncoupling track "momentary on" buttons, along with the SPST switch to power the short siding. 

Also received the PRR industrial switcher. It's a bottom of the line LC so I can't expect much. Not much in terms of sounds, and it flies when not loaded down, which will make the initial coupling a bit "interesting". Whether it curbs the urge to grab an E33 or not, we shall see.

20180213_224229

And my CW80 is making odd noises. I assume it's the fan. No idea how long it'll hold up. I noticed that TinMan3Rail has good prices on refurbished KW and ZW transformers.

Also, I think this little switcher might be my first "weathering" attempt, when I eventually get around to that.

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Deuce posted:

Mostly cleanup today. Worked on my small control panel a bit as well. It'll have the three uncoupling track "momentary on" buttons, along with the SPST switch to power the short siding. 

Also received the PRR industrial switcher. It's a bottom of the line LC so I can't expect much. Not much in terms of sounds, and it flies when not loaded down, which will make the initial coupling a bit "interesting". Whether it curbs the urge to grab an E33 or not, we shall see.

20180213_224229

And my CW80 is making odd noises. I assume it's the fan. No idea how long it'll hold up. I noticed that TinMan3Rail has good prices on refurbished KW and ZW transformers.

Also, I think this little switcher might be my first "weathering" attempt, when I eventually get around to that.

Deuce is that a bluetooth engine?    They say that they run much better on a smart phone.  

Jim

carsntrains posted:
Deuce posted:

Mostly cleanup today. Worked on my small control panel a bit as well. It'll have the three uncoupling track "momentary on" buttons, along with the SPST switch to power the short siding. 

Also received the PRR industrial switcher. It's a bottom of the line LC so I can't expect much. Not much in terms of sounds, and it flies when not loaded down, which will make the initial coupling a bit "interesting". Whether it curbs the urge to grab an E33 or not, we shall see.

20180213_224229

And my CW80 is making odd noises. I assume it's the fan. No idea how long it'll hold up. I noticed that TinMan3Rail has good prices on refurbished KW and ZW transformers.

Also, I think this little switcher might be my first "weathering" attempt, when I eventually get around to that.

Deuce is that a bluetooth engine?    They say that they run much better on a smart phone.  

Jim

I don't think so. None of the documentation lists BT functionality.

Got 8 hours in yesterday, but it didn't feel like I got much done. Ballasting just seems to drag on and on, and there's so much of it left to do.

I'm almost done with the mains in the 44th Avenue scene. I also got three of the switches and part of the yard at the far end. Out of frame at the bottom, I had to deal with a good sized hole in the benchwork, so it could hold the ballast.

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The mains beyond the stick are also glued.

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I ballasted and glued about nine feet on the lower level. It's a little hard to see, but I glued some pieces of foam in place, as a base for the scenery and a ballast and glue dam.

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This is where I put that bead of caulk in Sunday, to give the ballast a ledge to cling to. The section to the left looks pretty good. To the right, it needs another round, but it' working.

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I finally got back to Newport and did more of the plaster cloth. There are just a couple small spots left, but I didn't feel like opening a new roll. My day had been long enough at that point.

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Well, when I write it all down for you like this, maybe I did get a bunch done.

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Arnold D. Cribari posted:
Kerrigan posted:

Test ran the new Legacy NW2 switcher, back from warranty repair at "the Lionel dealer".  After about two minutes the grinding got louder, so I stopped it and when I removed it from the rail the rear truck fell off, dangling by the coupler wire.   Called Lionel who said send it to us this time ... and that this "model" is much nosier than the other engines Lionel offers.  At least this time I don't have to pay shipping .... Don't think we'll be buying more ... this is the 5th new engine in a row we've had to immediately send in for repairs.  Enough is enough.

That’s outrageous.

Lionel was kind and sent a pre-paid return label so it's on it's way to them via FedEx. 

Last edited by Kerrigan

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

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paul 2 posted:

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

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Hobby Lobby? Download the Hobby Lobby app and you'll always have a 40% off coupon with you.  I did that yesterday to grab a second Just Plug light hub.

paul 2 posted:

What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

I think the answer is a fresh #11 X-acto blade and a cutting mat under it, is the way to go. I haven't touched the stuff in years, in favor of basswood. I know it tears easily on the crosscut.

Deuce posted:
paul 2 posted:

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

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Hobby Lobby? Download the Hobby Lobby app and you'll always have a 40% off coupon with you.  I did that yesterday to grab a second Just Plug light hub.

Deuce I didn't know Hobby Lobby had Woodland Scenics!!   This is the 4rth day I've been waiting for my light hub with lights to get here.  So much for Amazon Prime 2 day shipping!  lol    

Paul I cut up balsa sticks with a razor blade.   It worked but not very smooth.   

Elliot Ive not got to ballast yet.   But it looks like the least fun anyone can have with a railroad!!! : ) 

Jim 

Mark Boyce posted:

Lee, your random shots are all great!!!!

Thanks, Mark and Bob (RSJB18)!

I posted it in a couple of other places that seemed relevant as well here. I took that in a series of shots to show someone the civilian vehicles on the layout (of which, there aren't many, considering the WW2 years I model), but I liked how it looked in color and thought in sepia it might pop better.

Just a random cell shot, I didn't even move anything to take it, other than the cell to get a good angle.

carsntrains posted:
beardog posted:

razor saw........

 

Beardog   I got that old stuff out.  Most of it is an American Flyer set ..  303 engine (4-4-2) 4 cars and a caboose.   But I do have a Marx 666 engine and red B&O car.  

20180214_183128 

Jim 

Thanks, Jim. But i do have all of those

 

John

carsntrains posted:
beardog posted:

razor saw........

 

Beardog   I got that old stuff out.  Most of it is an American Flyer set ..  303 engine (4-4-2) 4 cars and a caboose.   But I do have a Marx 666 engine and red B&O car.  

20180214_183128 

Jim 

Jim, looks great!  my only Marx engine is a 666.   I have the whole boxed set it came in.  From Girard, Pennsylvania not that far from here.

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

carsntrains posted:
Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

I had some Marx toys, but not a train.  Dad said a train set was too expensive for Christmas, so I saved money and finally bought a Tyco HO set when I was about 12.  About 1968.  Dad made it into a good learning experience on saving for something, then I used wood and wiring skills he taught me to build my own 4 x 8 layout.

Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:
Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

I had some Marx toys, but not a train.  Dad said a train set was too expensive for Christmas, so I saved money and finally bought a Tyco HO set when I was about 12.  About 1968.  Dad made it into a good learning experience on saving for something, then I used wood and wiring skills he taught me to build my own 4 x 8 layout.

Great learning experience Mark!  I wasn't exactly in the same boat.  But I still have all my trains from childhood.  You would not believe my HO collection!   I think I have 40 or more engines.  Most of which I bought myself as a kid/teen.  Have a couple sets of N.  My eyes and hands said O GAUGE LOL   

Jim 

Edit.   AND why I don't know.  But I had a desire to own many many Chattanooga Tyco engines.   Loved the early ones with all the side rods and stuff on it.   Amazing times learning the motor was in the tender.  And finding an add in model railroading from a hobby shop in Ohio that had bought all of Tycos spare parts.   Which I have new motors, gears, axles, well you name it for a Chattanooga engine lol 

Last edited by carsntrains
carsntrains posted:
Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

Jim, the 666 is a great runnning engine, is AC, but may run on DC like lionel does and the boxcar

looks good too.

John

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

why not put them on the for sale forum here....someone will snatch them up.

Steamer posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

why not put them on the for sale forum here....someone will snatch them up.

beardog posted:

I could be interested in the marx depending on how much you want for it

John

Yes Jim, you never know who may be interested.  John got me thinking about mine.  I hate to have trains sit in a box, and have no display room.  I may list my set, as I am cleaning house.

new delivery.

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 with green boiler (anniversary series: last year).

Got this off of ebay at a very reasonable price. 

Looks like, at most, it was test run.

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Fuzzy picture but the smoke deflector is functional.

 

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Another fuzzy picture: nice coal load.

 

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Choice of two 'cow catchers'.  Deck plate was pulled off in transit.  They didn't wrap the engine or tender in paper and plastic.  Lucky no serious damage.

Tender front ladders also bent but able to straighten those.

A very heavy engine.

 

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Apples55 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

Masked off the RSD-4 chassis for painting the rails white:  

And the first test fitting!  Still have to touch up a bit of overspray once the rails dry completely... 

GEDC0776

Mitch 

Please don't take this as encouragement, Mitch, but that looks rather striking.

I'm with Paul. It does look rather sharp. Are you going to number it?

And- Mitch- PLEASE don't take this as encouragement to defile another RS-4 again

Bob

Apples55 posted:

Please don't take this as encouragement, Mitch, but that looks rather striking.

Thankee!  Couldn't have done it without your kind assistance!  

Mark Boyce posted:

It is a dandy, Mitch!!  Does it just get the Razorback logo, or is the name going to be on it also?? 

RSJB18 posted:

I'm with Paul. It does look rather sharp. Are you going to number it?

When finances permit, I do plan on getting lettering and number decals made for the RTC fleet...  

And- Mitch- PLEASE don't take this as encouragement to defile another RS-4 again

Oh, no fears.  I'll figure out something ELSE to corrupt!  

Mitch 

samparfitt posted:

new delivery.

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 with green boiler (anniversary series: last year).

Got this off of ebay at a very reasonable price. 

Looks like, at most, it was test run.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 01D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 02D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 03D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 04D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 05D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 06

Fuzzy picture but the smoke deflector is functional.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 07D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 08D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 09D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 10D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 11

Another fuzzy picture: nice coal load.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 12D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 13

Choice of two 'cow catchers'.  Deck plate was pulled off in transit.  They didn't wrap the engine or tender in paper and plastic.  Lucky no serious damage.

Tender front ladders also bent but able to straighten those.

A very heavy engine.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 14

You've got yourself one beautiful locomotive. Congratulations!

Mitch, I like that engine. It's rad. So yesterday my Weaver trucks and couplers came form EBAY so I mounted then to a Weaver TOFC I had gotten minus the trucks. This morning with the weather nice I put a new belt on the band saw wheel. Thanks for the ideas on how to cut the Balsa I decided on the band saw for a smoother cut. So I got all the pieces for the crossing cut. Now I just have to fine tune them to get them in place. Decided on concrete for the approaches and in between the three tracks between the rails the look of wood planking stain wood. Pics..............Paul

DSCN1456DSCN1455

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Samperfit:  What a really gorgeous engine!  Let us know how well it runs.  

Probably be a little too big for my layout, my minimum curve is about 64" in diameter, and I'm also sure that the front of the boiler would slam into a couple of my tunnel portals on it's way around.    And for me, if it ain't Milwaukee Road, it don't go on my layout, but that doesn't mean that I can't admire your recent acquisition.

Paul Fischer

 

 

3rd rail D&RGW L-131.

Set up and test run.

I actually read the manual!

Interesting: says don't use MTH Z750 or Z1000 or you're ruin the electronics.

I've got the MTH Z4000 so OK (at least that's the one I used to test).

It said to run conventional the first time to make sure there is no binding, etc or you'll, again ruin the electronics, gears, etc.

Ran well on straight track but the drivers are coming off  after coming out of a turn (72" minimum radius).

I was testing over three turnouts so I tried strictly on curve track:  Same thing.

It looks like the oiling mechanism is sticking up too high and scraping on the bottom of the boiler.  I also checked to insure the two plates between the front engine and boiler were connected as there is a lip on the engine side.  I also put a little oil along the plates and the roller that contacts the engine plate.

I ran the engine clockwise and the wheels stay on so it appears the oiling mechanism is a little too high. 

I checked the plates and oiling mechanism to see if I could make some adjustments on height but nada.  Called Scott at 3rd rail but they work Monday's, Wednesday's and Friday's  (almost as good as my retirement days, but not quite!).

Anyway, I switched it to PROG, and inputted the engine onto my MTH throttle.

I find MTH's throttle more user friendly, plus I can load lionel onto MTH but not vise versa. 

I'll post this now and get the pictures processed as well as a short video and post these, later.

OK, pictures posted: still waiting for youtube to finish.

While checking the front, one of the steam pipes is rigid and the other rotates in the front engine, as it should.

Looking at the bottom of the boiler, there are two slots with enlargements at one end.  This is normal on my HO engines but there is always another steam pipe that fits into the slot and then telescopes into the engine steam pipe.  It appears they planned on doing that but there is no extra steam pipe in the box or package and the flexible steam pipe on the engine has no hole in it but this side could be the male end.

Will have to ask Scott, tomorrow about that.

This engine is brand new and has never been run.

I'll also admit that running on carpet isn't the best base as the track can bend down and cause unevenness, but still, it should handle it as I've got 3rd rail NP Z-8, Z-5, A-4, GN M-2, MTH DM&IR M-4, GN Z-6, S-2 and R-2 and they all run with no problems on the 'carpet central'.

Working marker lights and number boards, a given on the headlight.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 15

Nice cab detail and lighted.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 16

Dog house also lighted.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 17

Here's the oil lubricator that is scratching the bottom of the boiler.

Nice nomenclature there on the side of the boiler.

Hey, all I have to do is run it clockwise1

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 18

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Last edited by samparfitt
mike g. posted:

Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day!  Looks GREAT! 

paul 2 posted:

Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

Mark Boyce posted:

Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished!  Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!

Mike - Thanks, but I do put in extra long days with this convention coming up. He's supposed to come out for pictures in a couple weeks. I'm at a bit of a loss what we're going to shoot and the place is a mess.

Paul - Don't forget, I usually only work Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I have dialysis, so I usually take a nap after dinner and don't make it downstairs. That's why my work days are so long, because I feel the best then.

Mark - Thanks for visiting my YouTube channel!

I'm downstairs right now, just taking a short break from the ballast. Looks like I'll be dragging in a couple more bags for sifting tonight, after dinner and the hockey game.

 

 

This afternoon I got all the Balsa cut. The two approaches I carefully sanded the ends where it will meet the brick. The wood between the rails I kept cutting with an X Acto knife until I got a wheel set to run through without rubbing. I got the last of my brick road paper and started laying out the lower road. I found some wood stain so I can stain the wood between the rails. All and a pretty good afternoon. Pics..................Paul

DSCN1457DSCN1458

 

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samparfitt posted:

3rd rail D&RGW L-131.

Set up and test run.

I actually read the manual!

Interesting: says don't use MTH Z750 or Z1000 or you're ruin the electronics.

I've got the MTH Z4000 so OK (at least that's the one I used to test).

It said to run conventional the first time to make sure there is no binding, etc or you'll, again ruin the electronics, gears, etc.

Ran well on straight track but the drivers are coming off  after coming out of a turn (72" minimum radius).

I was testing over three turnouts so I tried strictly on curve track:  Same thing.

It looks like the oiling mechanism is sticking up too high and scraping on the bottom of the boiler.  I also checked to insure the two plates between the front engine and boiler were connected as there is a lip on the engine side.  I also put a little oil along the plates and the roller that contacts the engine plate.

I ran the engine clockwise and the wheels stay on so it appears the oiling mechanism is a little too high. 

I checked the plates and oiling mechanism to see if I could make some adjustments on height but nada.  Called Scott at 3rd rail but they work Monday's, Wednesday's and Friday's  (almost as good as my retirement days, but not quite!).

Anyway, I switched it to PROG, and inputted the engine onto my MTH throttle.

I find MTH's throttle more user friendly, plus I can load lionel onto MTH but not vise versa. 

I'll post this now and get the pictures processed as well as a short video and post these, later.

OK, pictures posted: still waiting for youtube to finish.

While checking the front, one of the steam pipes is rigid and the other rotates in the front engine, as it should.

Looking at the bottom of the boiler, there are two slots with enlargements at one end.  This is normal on my HO engines but there is always another steam pipe that fits into the slot and then telescopes into the engine steam pipe.  It appears they planned on doing that but there is no extra steam pipe in the box or package and the flexible steam pipe on the engine has no hole in it but this side could be the male end.

Will have to ask Scott, tomorrow about that.

This engine is brand new and has never been run.

I'll also admit that running on carpet isn't the best base as the track can bend down and cause unevenness, but still, it should handle it as I've got 3rd rail NP Z-8, Z-5, A-4, GN M-2, MTH DM&IR M-4, GN Z-6, S-2 and R-2 and they all run with no problems on the 'carpet central'.

Working marker lights and number boards, a given on the headlight.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 15

Nice cab detail and lighted.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 16

 

 

I’m unfamiliar with 3rd Rail engines except that they tend to be way out of my price range. The detail is terrific.

Big_Boy_4005 posted:
carsntrains posted:   

Elliot Ive not got to ballast yet.   But it looks like the least fun anyone can have with a railroad!!! : ) 

Jim 

Maybe so Jim, but it is very satisfying when it's done, and it makes it look like a real railroad.

Elliot that is true.   The harder or more aggravating the project is, the better you feel about a good outcome!  Just limit the aggravating and have a lot more good outcome!  Awesome work you guys have done!  My son helps me with the hard stuff!  

Jim  

WOW guys!!!  I got some new buildings in and was happy with myself ...  for a minute!  Y'all have really been working hard and got some awesome equipment!!    

I've never seen a more impressive ball of wires than that control panel!!!  I have some electricians that I know that would have a fit if they seen that!  But if it works more power too you Eric!!!  

Waiting on my refund from said dealer.   They received those reindeer cars today.  Waiting until they refund it to order some from another forum sponsor!   

Jim : ) 

paul 2 posted:

Mark, I think the flat I was working on was for a Pennsy trailer. Not totally sure. I'll check after dinner. I think I have about forty of the Weaver TOFC's now. Some were two rail that I have been changing out as I got three trucks and couplers for them......................Paul

Sorry Paul but what is a TOFC??  

Jim 

Arnold,

As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.

3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.

Here's what they look like before painting:

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 06N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 07N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 08N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 09N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 10N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 11

Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.

 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 12

Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!

Well detailed cab.

 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 13

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.

3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.

Here's what they look like before painting:

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 06N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 07N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 08N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 09N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 10N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 11

Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.

 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 12

Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!

Well detailed cab.

 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 13

Amazing, so I assume you painted your gorgeous engine. If so, what a great paint job you did. Seems to me that 3rd Rail engines are for the very serious and skilled modeler. Thanks for sharing this.

 

Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have  bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul

DSCN1459

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carsntrains posted:
Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )

 

 

   I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim.  An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)

When in doubt Jim, use DC. 

   So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.

  We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it. 

Marx DC were battery operated in my experience. 

Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.

  *There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too.  I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.    

 We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity.  If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) (  I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old.   He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints )

 

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

GNRR205GNRR206GNRR217GNRR218

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Adriatic posted:
carsntrains posted:
Mark Boyce posted:
carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )

 

 

   I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim.  An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)

When in doubt Jim, use DC. 

   So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.

  We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it. 

Marx DC were battery operated in my experience. 

Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.

  *There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too.  I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.    

 We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity.  If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) (  I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old.   He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints )

 

I'll tell you how little attention I paid to this engine.    I hadn't even turned it over in probably 40 years.    I thought it was two rail.  Dang thing is 3 rail lol  And yes we usually call the "return" the "ground".  

Jim 

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

GNRR205GNRR206GNRR217GNRR218

I can’t believe my eyes. You have a Railroad empire!  Like Commodore Vanderbuilt.

What a massive and spectacular round house and freight yard you have.

Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari
paul 2 posted:

Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have  bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul

DSCN1459

Paul, That’s great!  The cars will look great!

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

GNRR205GNRR206GNRR217GNRR218

Wow!!  I never realized you had so many!  Fourty a year!  One per year, perhaps.  That is believable.

Thanks Arnold.

Like price, one also doesn't need a lot of space either for a great looking layout and to have fun operating it.

I've seen some great track plans with lots of action in a relatively, small area.

This layout was started back in 1979 so it's had lots of time for 'development'.

Actually, it started back in the early 60's because a lot of building, etc were made back then on my first layout in my parent's basement.

It's been a lifetime development and 'keeps me off the streets at night!'

Mostly, I enjoy operating sessions with other railroaders that come over to operate the GNRW once a month.  The camaraderie is half the fun.

When I was buying a house, it had to be a ranch and, of course, a full basement

Last edited by samparfitt
Big_Boy_4005 posted:
mike g. posted:

Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day!  Looks GREAT! 

paul 2 posted:

Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

Mark Boyce posted:

Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished!  Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!

Mike - Thanks, but I do put in extra long days with this convention coming up. He's supposed to come out for pictures in a couple weeks. I'm at a bit of a loss what we're going to shoot and the place is a mess.

Paul - Don't forget, I usually only work Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I have dialysis, so I usually take a nap after dinner and don't make it downstairs. That's why my work days are so long, because I feel the best then.

Mark - Thanks for visiting my YouTube channel!

I'm downstairs right now, just taking a short break from the ballast. Looks like I'll be dragging in a couple more bags for sifting tonight, after dinner and the hockey game.

 

 

Elliot, I am sure you will be right on track and have everything looking nice for the photo shoot!

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2.

All fixed on derailing on curves.

I placed the L-131 on my 2" thick oak dining table (which I know is flat) and could see the mechanical oiler hitting the bottom of the boiler.



D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 19

The compound air pumps were also scraping the horizontal steps of the pilot.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 20

There are 4 screws in the 'riding' plate between the front engine and boiler. I loosened the 4 screws and put a shim (gray plastic) on both sides.

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 21

This raised the plate and, thus, also raised the boiler.

The oiler is soldered to the valve frame and, I'm guessing, the oiler was soldered a little too high.

My last option was to use my resistance soldering iron and relocate the oiler a little lower on the frame.

Put the engine on the track and it would only operate under conventional mode while using the MTH throttle: forgot to turn on the Lionel TMCC!

 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 22

 

Video of engine working around curves:

Will post when youtube is done

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Last edited by samparfitt

Morning Paul. As for what time I get up is all up to our English Bulldog, sometimes its 4am and other times it's 2am. then he sits there for an hour after he goes to the bathroom. If you try to go back to bed he just sits there and cries! LOL lucky me.

As far as the walls, it spose to snow this weekend so I am hopping to get to the lumber store next week sometime. If I can get the walls and roof on I will be happy, then I will go back and side it.

mike g. posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

carsntrains posted:
mike g. posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.

Deuce posted:
carsntrains posted:
mike g. posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.

Was 70 this morning when I came to work.  Think its in the mid to low 60s now and raining.  BOOOO

Jim

mike g. posted:

Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL

Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it?? 

Jim

Last edited by carsntrains

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 video.

Engine's working fine now with the 'plate' support mod.

Not sure why the smoke works only in 'conv' mode and not in 'TMCC'!  On the MTH throttle, hit 'smoke', say 'on' but nada.

Works on the other engines.

Wonder why the TMCC on 3rd rail does not have the wireless draw bar versus the ugly wires?

Oiled all the major friction points.

These articulated really need plus 90, or more, diameter curves to look good: that's a lot of overhang on those curves!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Last edited by samparfitt
carsntrains posted:
mike g. posted:

Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL

Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it?? 

Jim

Jim, I wish I could, but because of the snow load I have to put a 4 X10 beam across then 2 X10's on top of that, cause the wall wont support the addition per building inspector! I was just going to cut back into the roof so the new 2 x 10 would clear, and run it out. but I found out that is a no no!

so now I am stuck with a 91/2' wall on the garage and a 6' wall on the outside. Good thing I am only 5'9". LOL

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