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geysergazer posted:

 Now with digital cameras and computers there should be a way to [quickly and easily] view those negatives as positives on a screen. If I could come up with such a rig I could sort&cull and pull out greats for later use.

What you propose is actually fairly simple.  Scan the negatives on a flatbed scanner.  Then open the resulting image with a good image-editing program.  I  use Gimp, but I'm sure there are many others that will do.  Once the negative image is open, do an "invert colors," and you'll see it as a positive.  Save the positive image and you can do what you like with it.

The catch is that 35mm negatives are rather small, and it may be hard to get a good scan.  But the 120 negatives shouldn't pose any insurmountable problem on a flatbed.

If you really want the 35mm images, you might have to invest in a 35mm slide scanner.

I don't think consumer-grade scanners have high enough resolution to do justice to 35mm negatives. I have a 35mm slide mount contraption for an old Nikon digicam but all Dad's 35mm negatives are in rolls, not mounted. Dad made a film mount for his Beseler Enlarger such that a 35mm roll of negatives could be slid back-and-forth behind the lens so a roll could be quickly scanned for possible enlargements. 

geysergazer posted:

I don't think consumer-grade scanners have high enough resolution to do justice to 35mm negatives.

You might be surprised.  My old Epson NX410 will scan up to 4800x4800 dpi.  Not all "consumer grade" scanners are alike.

I have a 35mm slide mount contraption for an old Nikon digicam but all Dad's 35mm negatives are in rolls, not mounted. Dad made a film mount for his Beseler Enlarger such that a 35mm roll of negatives could be slid back-and-forth behind the lens so a roll could be quickly scanned for possible enlargements. 

If you can adapt such a device to a slide scanner, you're set.  Otherwise, your only option that I can see is to separate the negatives and mount them.

 

Mark, thank you sir! We will see what the contractors say and the amount, I have a friend that came over and he has a plan, but I want to see what the other guys say!

Frank, good luck on your postwar layout! I hope you will post photos down the road!

Johan, what a wonderful scene! The background looks so real!

Vincent, way cool! I bet the family and neighbors are just going to love it!

Mitch, great job on the restoration!

Well I went out later today after the HOA meeting and did a little more work. The wall is still wet with paint so I will let that sit over night, the mud for the RR crossing shrunk so I added a little more mud to that, and I added traffic for my tunnel coming from the HWY bridge. Here is a photo for Lew so he knows it really happened! I also added a little mound that will be between the track and future road. Tomorrow I will get out there and work on the crossing, and paint the mound and add some rock and dirt, and some ground cover!

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Jim, It sure is looking good! Looks like you will be ready in plenty of time! Just wondering what your going to use for motor power and also how are you going to power the fog unit?

Well after coffee and breakfast and a little reading of the new CTT Magazine I plan to try and get back to the train room. Today is going to be  a split day trains and Christmas lights! I just hate it that when I put the lights away they all work and when I take them out there is always lights out! What a PIA!

I hope you all have a great day and find time for trains and your layouts! Most of all what ever you do, have FUN!

geysergazer posted:

Mike, can you tell how much your roof trusses sagged? Our house is 67yr old and has some sag of the roof rafters. You can see it by standing in the right place outside and sighting the roof. Such is true of many older houses and is harmless. The critical thing is any new/additional sag. Are you sure this is a new development from last Winter?

Hi Lew, I noticed it a couple of days ago while hanging Christmas lights. I pretty sure its from last years snow fall as we just had a new roof put on 4 years ago and there were no problems then. I put a level on the ceiling and from the outside wall it drops about an inch and a half. I started looking and its in a few different places.

I hope it wont be to much for a fix, but either way it has to be done! I know if it snows I will be out there with my new snow rake cleaning the roof off as much as I can as both contractors have already told me it will be up to 2 months before they could even get started!

Thanks for asking Lew!

Ran trains for a few minutes between outdoor chores. Sorry Lew- no pix....but it did happen.

Mike- Truss construction is usually bullet-proof. Hope the repair bill is manageable. I like the tunnel. How much did it hurt to cut that Menards truck in half?

Nice job on the Corgi Mitch.

B&O Fan- very nice. The weathering looks good!

Jim- that train is going to be the hit of the parade!

Happy Sunday!

I wonder if its possible for the Jets and Giants to loose to each other today?

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Mike, I solved the Christmas light problem 3 years ago when I replaced most with LEDs from Costco. The only ones I have left are on the animated deer and I haven’t decided if I’ll replace the deer or just rewire with new lights. The lights along the front eaves have plastic covers that look like regular bulbs and they don’t break when getting banged up. The patio lights change colors, so we go from white most of the year to red for the holidays. The Christmas tree lights also change colors so they are white through Thanksgiving and then red/blue for the holidays. It got to wear I replacing all bulbs every 3-4 years, so the LEDs will easily pay for themselves. Plus, the LEDs use a lot less energy, so that’s a bonus.

Mark, when our daughter moved out, she took her tree with her. So, we needed a new one and decided to get one with built-in LEDs. We had been looking at new outside lights too, so went ahead and got those at the same time. The deer are more problematic because we have 2 bucks, 4 does and 3 fawns making it a bit more expensive. Plus new ones are still a hassle to fold/unfold and store, so I’m unsure if I want to replace them.

Bob, I have been watching a lot of video's on truss repair for manufactured homes. If the bids are to high I will be calling in all the favors from my local friends and family! LOL As for the Menards truck, it wasn't to bad as I have 5 of the Santa Fe box trucks!

Mark, I too have an excuse its called sagging trusses, even the wife said why put them up we have to take them down to fix the trusses and a new roof. I told her why not both contractors said that they cant get here till after Christmas! I guess I shot myself in the foot there! LOL

Dave, Its a great idea in theory! But half of the lights that I have that are out are LED's and it sure is harder to find the problem with them. My neighbor buys LED's every Christmas cause he doesn't want to have to deal with trying to find the problem. He can afford it, I just sit in my chair and work on them LOL I am glad you have had better luck then I have!

Same song second verse.  In a recent "collection purchase" I got two #6457 cabooses circa 1950.  Using the medicine bottle trick, I changed the interior lighting color from way-to-bright white to kerosene amber.  While I cringed at Alabama's performance against the OTHER team.  I carved two medicine bottles down to size.  I reassembled the subject this morning.  For comparison, I photographed stock and modified together for your evaluation.

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  Then I removed the shell from a 1949 vintage #3472 operating milk can ejector.  I lubricated all the right places on the mechanism then focused my attention on cleaning the nasty shell.  First up was liquid Ivory soap and a soft bristle tooth brush.  90% satisfaction resulted.  There is a sticky, brown substance on one end of the shell that was not affected.  Next I tried Goo-Gone.  No change.  Then distilled white vinegar, rubbing alcohol, and finally, my favorite citrus based hand cleaner all to no effect.  I have some paint stripper but I know better than using it on plastic.  What would you try next?

I need a milk car platform so I don't have to play "catch the milk can"  Anyone have one they can spare?  My email is listed in my profile.

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Odenville Bill posted:

I have some paint stripper but I know better than using it on plastic.  What would you try next?

Magic Eraser with generic Lectric Shave.  Won't harm the plastic.  

I need a milk car platform so I don't have to play "catch the milk can"  Anyone have one they can spare?  My email is listed in my profile.

Note sent! 

Mitch 

Afternoon guys, Well like I said earlier. I spent 5 hours on Christmas lights for 2 display products, I must have changed over 75 little white light bulbs. The first was a lighted Christmas tree with color balls on it which needed 80 percent of the lights changed, It took most of my time. Then the wife has a set of Christmas Pink PIG's that light up, I checked every bulb in both pigs and finely got both to work. Took them up to the porch plugged them in and told the wife they were fixe. She comes out an hour later while I am working in the train room as said I thought you fixed my Pigs! So tomorrow morning I will be doing pink pigs again! LOL

But now on to train stuff, I finished up my retaining wall and put my parking lot back up. I sanded the mud for the crossing and worked on the small mound I set yesterday. I have added photos below, but I will tell you in my own mind the retaining wall is a big fail! After talking with Chris A. and getting some pointers the mound between the track and future road turned out a lot better in my opinion!IMG_20191110_144829053IMG_20191110_144853216IMG_20191110_144902438IMG_20191110_144920878IMG_20191110_144912969

I hope you all had a great day and your teams did well today! I have to stay up late tomorrow to see my Seahawks go against the undefeated 49ers!

As normal your input is more then welcome!

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this a.m. before work, when the owls were still talking beneath the near full moon in the forest,  I ran my reconditioned PW 2046 with a tank unit train. so smooth running now. I removed and parked all my plasticville to see just what was next with track work. Just track and no distraction ( no pun intended). I am going to add uncoupler tracks and need to continue setting up feeders for power all around. my layout is powered to three tables currently by a ZW and ONE track clip! note nothing is tacked down but works! Yesterday I moved another semi hollow  homosote topped door near the side of the layout. in an effort to test and visualize  the expansion. no track on it yet. I continued cleaning up my former live catenary poles still. I am not sure of an upper level yet, but there are several bridges that I can use for that purpose. It will all have the postwar Look to it in any event.  Separating a town from an industrial area may be a challenge, If need to.   So little at a time new ideas populate my potential everchanging plan, beauty of which I need to stay flexible with. lol.

Mike G:   Nice work, glad I could be of some help.   I don't think the retaining walls are a failure.  I think you need to weather them, and consider replacing the top cap with a "concrete" or "slab stone" cap.    I am attaching a word document to this post that contains all my notes from when I weathered a long concrete retaining wall, and my Pennsy Stone Block walls which are very similar to your casting.  There are some photos attached below, which were done with the technique and colors described in the MS Word document.   I learned in the last 2 years that I needed to write down what I was doing if I was ever going to have a prayer of duplicating the same effect again.  

The first block wall photo was taken before the final diluted acrylic wash was applied. 

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Happy Sunday all!

Mike your model RR is really starting to come together, great work!

Me I had a long list of honeydoo's this weekend so could only day dream about working on the layout, maybe next weekend. I did manage to sneak down stairs to run some trains for a while... until I got busted. 

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John

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