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Progress Update!

The table came together great! Finishing wiring now. Starting with two primary distro blocks using both fixed channels on the DCS TIU. Also feeding my Legacy Control system into the blocks for my Lionel engines. Power will be fed to the layout via a MTH Z-4000 transformer. I plan to leverage the outer loop for both Command and my Pre/Post War Engines. The inner loop and yard area will remain Command Only for now. Scenery and such to follow over time. I was happy with the finished product that I may just leave it plain for a while. Just really looking forward to getting the trains moving. Special thanks to my friend Lawrence for his expertise on the the woodworking. Part 4 of the Blog is below.

https://midnightwoodworking.co...-train-table-part-4/

@mike g. posted:
@mike g. posted:

Mark as for the snow, its the plastic chunks that come in a bag, it almost looks like ripped up old plastic grocery bags but clear.

@mike g.

@mike g.

Mike:

I know the snow of which you speak. Years ago, I bought a bag of it and after trying some on a small portion of the layout, I vacuumed it off and trashed the whole bag. It does resemble shredded, white, plastic garbage bags. Here is an Amazon link to the granulated snow that I use on my layout and used to sell when I was still in the scenery supply business. https://www.amazon.com/FloraCr...4&ts_id=15704031

This snow is finely granulated and looks well. I use it to cover white thumb tacks holding down my snow blankets as well as for sprinkling along the side of roads to give the road edge a more realistic, uneven look and for the roofs of buildings. below are some photos of our layout that shows the use of this snow.

HPIM0029HPIM0032004City Street003

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Just got a new scale gas pump in the mail.

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1/43 scale, just a little big, but those pumps were very tall in real life
I love how it looks! Way better than the kit I had in there before today.

I got two, but one would be yellow for ethyl gas, so it's just the one red one for now.

Here it is weathered:

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I really like the look overall now...

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Last edited by p51
@Chris1985 posted:

Progress Update!

The table came together great! Finishing wiring now. Starting with two primary distro blocks using both fixed channels on the DCS TIU. Also feeding my Legacy Control system into the blocks for my Lionel engines. Power will be fed to the layout via a MTH Z-4000 transformer. I plan to leverage the outer loop for both Command and my Pre/Post War Engines. The inner loop and yard area will remain Command Only for now. Scenery and such to follow over time. I was happy with the finished product that I may just leave it plain for a while. Just really looking forward to getting the trains moving. Special thanks to my friend Lawrence for his expertise on the the woodworking. Part 4 of the Blog is below.

https://midnightwoodworking.co...-train-table-part-4/

Chris, I too followed along with your build.  I see lots of neat tricks there.  Lawrence is really a master.  I'm looking forward to seeing your layout develop from here.

I do all the cutting just outside the door from the layout room on the cement patio, even in the snow.  If it's rainy, I take it to the basement level garage, but try to do it outside since I am not set up for getting rid of all the dust.

Past few days been dealing with wiring switches and learning things that will not work. z-1000 and z-2500 can not be connected to the same z1003 controller. ( I had two switches I wanted to throw at the same time. ) ( actually, I have 6 sets that I have that throw at the same time as the other) So now I have switches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8, 9&10, 11&12, and switch 13 all wired up. Starting framework now on my two 4' x 8' expansions.

The first piece of addition in place but now thinking the next may go along the long wall ( it will only be 6'10" that way by 4' ) but that will give me some more room in the room. otherwise, I would run it from the wall coming along the side of what is there for 8' giving a max of 24' wide for 8'. I really only lose about 1 foot doing the first way and that isn't that big of a thing but it gives me so much more room for getting around. IMG_2244

That what you see is actually 12 long by 4' wide. I'm going to have a 6 track yard on that. stopping about 6" from the end so I can run a track behind it to a transfer table either way I do the last sheet of plywood.

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Last edited by rtraincollector

I did some test running over the last two new switches and associated track today using a couple new to me engines.  I found these used Legacy GP7s, one powered, one not powered on one of the local brick and mortar train shop's table at the Monroeville Greenberg show yesterday.  Yes both have a little more wear than I would have liked, but everything operates great on the powered geep.  The glaring deficiency on the powered one is that the magnetic held lid on the short hood is missing.  I see the little round magnets on the shell came unglued, so the lid was lost.  The bell and both of the flip down walkways over the couplers are missing.  The non powered one is missing one of the flip down walkways.  There are a few spots where the paint is chipped, but not much.  What sold me was he wanted $150 for the pair.  I can fix them up as time passes for that price.  I like the Great Northern paint scheme, it adds some color to my black Western Maryland Rwy layout!

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@B&O Fan posted:

Completed my apartment building facade and got another photo backdrop installed. Its been moving slowly lately due to some travel and preparation for retirement at the end of the year. Looking forward to that!

Stay Safe,

Scott

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Scott:

Your apartment facade is superb! Also, the new Mt. Royal Station photo is outstanding. Where did you get your back drop photos?

@Mark Boyce posted:

I did some test running over the last two new switches and associated track today using a couple new to me engines.  I found these used Legacy GP7s, one powered, one not powered on one of the local brick and mortar train shop's table at the Monroeville Greenberg show yesterday.  Yes both have a little more wear than I would have liked, but everything operates great on the powered geep.  The glaring deficiency on the powered one is that the magnetic held lid on the short hood is missing.  I see the little round magnets on the shell came unglued, so the lid was lost.  The bell and both of the flip down walkways over the couplers are missing.  The non powered one is missing one of the flip down walkways.  There are a few spots where the paint is chipped, but not much.  What sold me was he wanted $150 for the pair.  I can fix them up as time passes for that price.  I like the Great Northern paint scheme, it adds some color to my black Western Maryland Rwy layout!

2020-11-08 16.29.47

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...69-b175-4ed87ae42c4b

Would part #27 work for you?  1/2 off for the next few hours or so.

Last edited by Pingman
@Pingman posted:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...69-b175-4ed87ae42c4b

Would part #27 work for you?  1/2 off for the next few hours or so.

Thank you, Carl!  I looked up the GP7 this afternoon, but they only had a few parts listed.  I was going to dig in farther at another time, but forgot about the discount weekend.  I just ordered two hatches since the dark green comes to a point instead of straight across as on my non powered model.  I also ordered some magnets, mu platforms and hinges for good measure.

This is just another example of how so many great Forum members come to the aid of each other!  Thanks!!

Painted a light coat on the homasote last week, started to rough out the track this weekend. First went through all of our Lionel PW automatic switches and cleaned them up, made sure they were all functional.

Then we tested all the DZ1000 machines for the Ross and GarGraves switches. Hot tip: I think others have mentioned, but I found out on my own that you cannot run the DZ1000s with the lighted Lionel controllers for the 072 and 042 switches. I guess the light circuit feeds too much current to the solenoid with the switch in the neutral position that makes it freak out. However, you can use the controller just fine if the bulbs are removed.

Then we got around to laying out and test fitting track. Goal is to be running trains by Thanksgiving! Really enjoying the QT with dad!

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I finished that Oakridge Corp. "The Old Mill" that l bashed into half again as long. Added a stone spillway matching the bashed stone foundation, and other tweaks.  It has taken me the life of the pandemic to now to do, due to assorted rude interruptions. Need to add signs.  Then went through my kits, and found duplicates, including another of these.  I need a show to set up in ....maybe next year?  May tackle the extension on the Menard's engine house next.

Mulling another small modification to the layout. I'm trying to see if I can add a third siding to my small two-track yard. I've been playing around in SCARM with various switches and it looks like I can make it work with MTH 031 Scaletrax switches. Some heavy modifications would be necessary to fit three in the space but it has potential.

If anyone has some 031 LH Scaletrax switches out there...email is in my profile.

Bob

Current New yard MTH031

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WOW great work everyone!

Mark, I think I still have a bag of the stuff I used, let me look and if so I will take a photo of it for you! Oh and Nice find on the engines! Great price and easy fix's!

Rich, I will give it a try on a scrap piece of wood and see how it goes! Wonderful idea!

Chris, once again WOW! You sure have an understanding wife! It can see with the skills of the carpenter that its really just going to be one big wonderful piece of furniture!

Randy, what a wonderful winter scene! It is just about that time!

Bill, that sure is alot of switches. I sure hope everything is still working when you have it all put together! Would make alot of crawling under the table!

Jeff, looks like a great start. Take the time and enjoy as much time as you can with your dad! It will really mean the world to him and to you later in life!

Bob, I will check later this morning and let you know later today! I know I have some switches under the table, just forget what they are!

Ok, now that I am up to speed with everyone here is what I have been up to. I mad a new retaining wall at the base of my mountain using an old beer box and some wood cut to length as you all know I am cheap! LOL I then made the stone portholes for my lower tunnels, added some trees and more dirt for a dirt road, and last but not least wired in almost all my building. so now I can turn them all on and off using one power source and switch.

Here are a couple photos, and a shot video.

IMG_20201108_142851074IMG_20201108_153524285_HDRIMG_20201108_153620752IMG_20201108_153632891IMG_20201108_153701372I am using 12v power supply and 3 buck converters to lower power and left one true 12v feed for my street lights and anything else that might take 12.

I hope you all have a great week and find time for your layout and trains! Be safe and have fun!

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Chris, I am with Mark, great looking table top and I love the look of all the trains on there! I will be along with Mark and others fallowing your build!

Bob, While I was crawling around under the layout I looked at the switches and all I found was an 054 Sorry!

Just so the rest of you understand I was crawling around to hook up all my buildings and lighted Auto, anything that has lights. Here is a photo .I am going to post more on another thread.IMG_20201108_153701372

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Last edited by mike g.

Hi Guys and Gals, Today I took a break from wiring and worked a little on scenery. I had to figure out what to do with the little triangles around my reverse loop so here is what I came up with.

A working gravel yard and a wilderness scene! I hope you enjoy~!

1275127712781269

Oh and while I was at it I painted my town black so all I have to do is mark out the roads and parking!

I hope you all have a great weekend and find time to have fun with your trains and layouts~!

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Decided to slide my entire 9x13 layout forward about 5 inches. This gave me room to add 13 feet of additional siding along the back wall so I can hold passenger trains (or a container lash-up) on the layout without having to remove cars. Thought I had enough room to drop a second level staging area under my layout using this added space, but just not enough room unless I used an 8% grade.

When I do this again (in my next house) I'll incorporate plenty of staging area or yard space.  And make sure I have reversing loops.

Pulled out the sidings and the plywood decking. I did not have enough support underneath this section so it tended to sag. Good time to fix that problem. The extra 5 inches also made it much easier to stand up in the corners.

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The siding will run against the brick concrete wall. I have not decided yet if I will keep it a dead end or add another turnout so I don't have to back out. That means tearing out a bit of ballasted section I put in a week ago. Amazingly after sliding the "c" shaped layout forward, the three bridges still lined up pretty well. Since I knew this layout would be only temporary, there is no roadbed installed - except where I was trying out foam roadbed. Right now I am not a fan.

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Mike g., awesome work, I like the Menards Billboard with the cow, the dark colored city area, great idea, and train headed by a BNSF Diesel heading toward the upper tunnel portal, wow, you, my friend have come a long way. It’s an exciting layout, thanks for the update. Scouting Dad, you’ve built a very nice layout, great construction techniques, great track work, very nice. Happy Railroading Everyone 20B236A7-8DF2-41F4-B339-8A138F67856565F5D66C-C2FB-4851-8D63-70B61E34CBA5

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Jay - This is the first time I have been working with road bed so it may be just a learning experience.

my experience with the foam road bed and why I am not a fan as yet:

a - the track screws transmit noise into the plywood underlayment so the foam does not seem to help on the noise. looks nice though with ballast

b - I've tried both the roll and straight sections over plywood. If not glued or taped down it has to be held in place with the track and screws. I have to add more screws to keep it in place adding more sound transmission. You would think the foam would compress in curves, but it tends to ridge up so back to laying track on top. That is even when split and for 42 dia curves it is worse, 72 is manageable. 

c. I have not figured out a way to lay out the roadbed first and then the track. I suppose double faced tape is a possibility.

d. The roadbed compresses when screwed down, so you have to be precise on how far you drive the screws. On the other hand I am seeing a bit of compression with heavy steamers which is causing some operating issues both at switches and straight runs. My MTH Premier SP4449 is really finicky to the point it runs fine one direction but not the other, especially through turnouts with foam backing.

If anyone has solutions let me know. Many seem to use cork, but not sure of the sound issue since screws are still needed to fasten to something. I am now on the 7th layout change in about 3 years so I prefer to have something I can remove and reconfigure without too much trouble or investment.

As far as the temporary nature - I promised the CEO I would retire and move to another state in a couple of years to get closer to the grandkids. So I knew going in whatever I built, would not last longer than a couple of years. Honestly going through O27 tubular and used Atlas then to mostly used Ross and Gargraves has been a huge learning experience. (I really do like Atlas track and switches except for the price) Whatever I may have thought to be permanent even a year ago has changed with what I have learned through this forum and others. Even though I keep fiddling with the track layout, I consider this a learning experience for my next layout. (If only I knew then what I know now, I would have done things differently)  With the move I will get a larger train room. I have no intention of downsizing, but will keep what I want to run, sell what I don't, and minimize the shelf queens.

Best - Jeff

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