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@mike g. posted:

As for me guys, I went out and started painting my little people and I know some of you guys really like doing this but I have to tell you after I get all of these painted the next batch will be pre painted! LOL

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Mike...nice job on the painting so far...I take it your patience maybe running thin like mine did a few years ago. After the first batch I did, I said time to move on to less tedious work...

Last edited by Capetrainman

Mike...nice job on the painting so far...I take it your patience maybe running thin like mine did a few years ago. After the first batch I did, I said time to move on to less tedious work...

Your right Paul, but I guess I will see how I feel after doing 50 of them! LOL I like the idea of saving  me money. but I dont know if its worth losing my mind! LOL

@mike g. posted:

Your right Paul, but I guess I will see how I feel after doing 50 of them! LOL I like the idea of saving  me money. but I dont know if its worth losing my mind! LOL

Mike,

I like your rich colors. Doing a great job. What paint do you use? Acrylic or lacquer? Where did you source those figures - I like them. (Apologies if you posted this info already.)

Bob

Mike, I had no idea those cranes were that strong!  Great scene!!

Scott, the video is great! 

This weekend I finished the roadbed and fastened the track into place.  One of the switches has a dead spot.  I will have to check the jumpers I soldered in.  I'm guessing I have a cold joint.  Speaking of soldering, I replaced the tip on my soldering gun, and I have better heat transfer.  That should do the trick on fixing the bad connection.

Shot a bit of video. Not super happy with the autofocus on my DSLR but the increased lighting seems to have reduced the graininess. Here is a short video of the town of Twin Pines. The Inn will get additional detailing as will a few of the other buildings.

I'll get the layout video edited and post in the next couple of days.

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Twin Pines

@ScoutingDad  ....but there's only ONE pine in front of the Twin Pines Inn.    I like the detailing of the town, including the stair stepped sidewalk and the bridge work to that lower level. Those would be good for my corner town scene when finish construction heads that way.  

@Andrew Steiner  ...that coaling elevator is nice!  Would adding some kind of sloping insert (high on the sides, low in the center) into the loading tray help the "coal" to find its way to the center ? It might keep Mr. Finger's working hours down.

ScottV - you got me! you guys are a rough crowd.  I've been working out how I was going to build my ancient twin pine - present well before the founding of the town.

When I reconfigured my layout to include a curved yard I wanted to deck it over to allow space for more buildings. That meant I needed the deck to be a few inches higher than the "lower" part of the town. The stairs are just a sandwich of 1/4 nominal plywood sandwiched together at 2 inch intervals to get the step effect and the strength to span an access "hatch".

All the structure in this area is removable, this then exposes the access hatch where I can stand up in this space to work on the track and switch at the right side of this photo. All the buildings, street lights and signs have electrical quick connects for service work as needed.  This is one reason I will limit the use of a plywood deck to build my next layout. Fine tuning the grade change using 2x4 blocks was tedious and it transmits sound to the plywood base.

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@ScoutingDad posted:

ScottV - you got me! you guys are a rough crowd.  I've been working out how I was going to build my ancient twin pine - present well before the founding of the town.

When I reconfigured my layout to include a curved yard I wanted to deck it over to allow space for more buildings. That meant I needed the deck to be a few inches higher than the "lower" part of the town. The stairs are just a sandwich of 1/4 nominal plywood sandwiched together at 2 inch intervals to get the step effect and the strength to span an access "hatch".

All the structure in this area is removable, this then exposes the access hatch where I can stand up in this space to work on the track and switch at the right side of this photo. All the buildings, street lights and signs have electrical quick connects for service work as needed.  This is one reason I will limit the use of a plywood deck to build my next layout. Fine tuning the grade change using 2x4 blocks was tedious and it transmits sound to the plywood base.

IMG_2716

Superb work, Scouting dad.  Thanks for sharing that video as well. I really like how your town has uneven elevation, with steps and grades.  Very realistic and unlike the flat  elevated board used by most modelers building that second level.

Last edited by Strap Hanger

Andrew, Nice work on getting the 97 Coal Elevator up and working! ScottV might have a good idea there, also you could make a longer shoot to load the cars. I would reduce the mess after loading a lot of cars.

Jeff @ScoutingDad, Nice little video, what program did you use to add the title? I really like the video of your layout and how things look from different point of views! I really like your second level, the wife said I should do one on my layout so between painting little people, I have been scratching my head on that one! You have done such a great job!

@mike g. posted:

Andrew, Nice work on getting the 97 Coal Elevator up and working! ScottV might have a good idea there, also you could make a longer shoot to load the cars. I would reduce the mess after loading a lot of cars.

Jeff @ScoutingDad, Nice little video, what program did you use to add the title? I really like the video of your layout and how things look from different point of views! I really like your second level, the wife said I should do one on my layout so between painting little people, I have been scratching my head on that one! You have done such a great job!

Thanks, Mike and Scott. I'll see what I can come up with, like cutting a strip of cardboard/corrugated plastic and putting on the dumping base as a sleeve. The chute I might think about, since I've never worked with tinplate before.

Last edited by Andrew Steiner

Mike Strap Hanger Mark, thanks for the comments - all the elevation changes were brought about by my wanting an over and under trackplan with the ability to have a train use both "loops". The Ross crossover saved a lot of space I needed to get the elevation change without needing to go over 2.8% grade.  Plus the 9x13 forced some creative thinking on how to get it all to work together. That said after construction I realized there was more I could add. Additional passing tracks, lower yard, third loop - all interconnected.

Most of these changes are on the TPRR topic.  Mike you can also see how I ended up doing the deck over. The deck over the "yard" is held in place by 4 screws and is "easily" removed if I need to work on the yard track. The supports are 1/2 plywood with Kreig pocket screws set into the underlying plywood. The deck itself is 1/2 plywood so relatively light.  Later on I added 1/2 wood blocks to the to of the supports to add a better look and to have good fastening points.

I was looking at a cab video I took of the layout Sept 2019. Lots of changes and way more finishing work completed. On the agenda is to take a cab perspective video tour starting in the terminal and winding around the layout.

Jeff

@Strap Hanger

That is a GREAT scene. If I haven't asked you this question already, where did you get the combination stone and ornamental iron fence?

Thanks Randy. It’s going to look even better when I install the construction crane lifting the "on ramp" section of roading next to the side with the barricades.  

I went up to the great white North for that fence. I thought ordering from a Canadian company would be a disaster, but it worked out well. I’ve since ordered roof details and o scale factory machines/workers from them without a hitch as well. The deliveries usually arrive within 2 weeks for me down in South Florida. Here is the link - https://modelbuilderssupply.com/fence/

Last edited by Strap Hanger

Thanks Randy. It’s going to look even better when I install the construction crane lifting the "on ramp" section of roading next to the side with the barricades.  

I went up to the great white North for that fence. I thought ordering from a Canadian company would be a disaster, but it worked out well. I’ve since ordered roof details and o scale factory machines/workers from them without a hitch as well. The deliveries usually arrive within 2 weeks for me down in South Florida. Here is the link - https://modelbuilderssupply.com/fence/

Strap Hanger, its cool you are sharing all these companies you order from. I have been checking them out and I forgot to tell you that the LED supplier is from Washington State, just down the road from my sisters! about  5hr drive for me. But I would think shipping would have to be cheaper with it being in state! LOL

@ScoutingDad posted:

Mike Strap Hanger Mark, thanks for the comments - all the elevation changes were brought about by my wanting an over and under trackplan with the ability to have a train use both "loops". The Ross crossover saved a lot of space I needed to get the elevation change without needing to go over 2.8% grade.  Plus the 9x13 forced some creative thinking on how to get it all to work together. That said after construction I realized there was more I could add. Additional passing tracks, lower yard, third loop - all interconnected.

Most of these changes are on the TPRR topic.  Mike you can also see how I ended up doing the deck over. The deck over the "yard" is held in place by 4 screws and is "easily" removed if I need to work on the yard track. The supports are 1/2 plywood with Kreig pocket screws set into the underlying plywood. The deck itself is 1/2 plywood so relatively light.  Later on I added 1/2 wood blocks to the to of the supports to add a better look and to have good fastening points.

I was looking at a cab video I took of the layout Sept 2019. Lots of changes and way more finishing work completed. On the agenda is to take a cab perspective video tour starting in the terminal and winding around the layout.

Jeff

Hi Jeff, just wondering if you had a thread of your build? I would love to go back and read up on it!

Thanks Randy. It’s going to look even better when I install the construction crane lifting the "on ramp" section of roading next to the side with the barricades.  

I went up to the great white North for that fence. I thought ordering from a Canadian company would be a disaster, but it worked out well. I’ve since ordered roof details and o scale factory machines/workers from them without a hitch as well. The deliveries usually arrive within 2 weeks for me down in South Florida. Here is the link - https://modelbuilderssupply.com/fence/

@Strap Hanger

Thanks for the link. I found the fence. What did you use to create the stone work around the fence?

@mike g. posted:

Strap Hanger, its cool you are sharing all these companies you order from. I have been checking them out and I forgot to tell you that the LED supplier is from Washington State, just down the road from my sisters! about  5hr drive for me. But I would think shipping would have to be cheaper with it being in state! LOL

They’re pretty cheap already, I think $5 per package to ship to Florida. But heck, if you need LEDs and  can drive by after visiting your sister, it’s a win win!  I don’t mind sharing at all, Mike. Many here did the same for me.  It’s the least I could do.

@Strap Hanger

Thanks for the link. I found the fence. What did you use to create the stone work around the fence?

Hi Randy. Like Mike said, It comes with the fence kit. All I did was paint the stone and iron fence. Assembly is very easy. If you click on the link and scroll to the fence you like, they have pictures of the unpainted stonework and fenceing that come with the kit. Here is a link to one of the other model fences with a picture of the entire kit that they send, which includes the plastic stone wall -  https://modelbuilderssupply.co...o-gauge-39-fen-4804/

For between $11 to $15 depending on the one you pick (plus I think $10 shipping to the US) it’s a great deal.  They also have other great Ogauge architectural details and products that I’ve had a hard time finding here in the states, like o scale factory machines and large roof size sky lights and other roof details.

Last edited by Strap Hanger

Got the TPRR video edited and posted under the TPRR link below.

A Pennsy P5A electric arrived from Cabin Fever today.  It looks like it was never on the rails. Replaced the white battery of death with a BCR and lubed and greased the engine. However it just did not want to run in either direction. Took the body off and noticed the metal side frames around the motors were in contact with the flywheels. Bent the frames out a touch for some needed clearance and the engine ran fine after that. 

@ScoutingDad posted:

Got the TPRR video edited and posted under the TPRR link below.

A Pennsy P5A electric arrived from Cabin Fever today.  It looks like it was never on the rails. Replaced the white battery of death with a BCR and lubed and greased the engine. However it just did not want to run in either direction. Took the body off and noticed the metal side frames around the motors were in contact with the flywheels. Bent the frames out a touch for some needed clearance and the engine ran fine after that.

Can't open the video. The link required a password to access.

Bob

Last edited by RSJB18

Haven't done much since my hospital discharge.  I wasn't allowed to climb stairs for about 2 weeks but now I'm stronger so I can get to the layout in the basement.  No heavy lifting or straining but I  can do some lightweight work.

I clad my slab mill with corrugated cardboard for a ribbed siding effect. I used E-flute single faced corrugated that comes in 1X12 sheets and affixed them to the building with Scotch 77 spray adhesive.   Don't know if the ribbing is scale but since this is a background building, 4 feet from the edge  of the table,  it won't matter.  After cladding I hit it with matte acrylic spray to dull the finish and then I  used red oxide weathering powder to age the siding. Made a couple of sliding doors from scratch polystyrene and painted them with acrylics also. I still need to make a few signs for the front and ends. The slab mill is 12X32x24 and sits next to the Electric Arc Furnace building that is 24X48X32 inches tall, my next cladding project but it's too heavy for me to lift. My son will have to pull it off the layout for me to work on.

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Still need to place windows in it. I can get Korber  Models windows from Mr. MUFFIN'S TRAINS , but they're on pre-order right now.

Hope you like it.

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@third rail posted:

Haven't done much since my hospital discharge.  I wasn't allowed to climb stairs for about 2 weeks but now I'm stronger so I can get to the layout in the basement.  No heavy lifting or straining but I  can do some lightweight work.

Looks good Bill. The cardboard is a good siding material. Glad to hear you are up and around a little.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Bob - redid the link to the video - let me know if it works this time.  It should just run the video through the link. The Video is too big to post to the forum.  Jeff

Also added here TPRR May 2021 Trains Running

That one works Jeff. Things are looking good.

As for me- no layout time but I did order a Williams PRR 44 ton diesel from Trainland yesterday. I've been wanting a scale version for a while.

Bob

Hi guys, been gone from here the last couple days as I have been busy with the house painting and a sick bull dog. I havent done anything in the train room since my last post but I wanted to get on here to see what you guys were up to!

Jeff, thanks for putting the link for your video up, I havent watched it yet as I have to leave soon to the vets to get my buddy! But I will for sure!

Bill nice work on the building once everything is all said and done with your next one they are going to look great on your layout!

I am so glad to see you all having fun with your layout and trains!

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