Glad you feel that way, Mario!  Thanks for being a key contributor literally since the day I started this thread two years ago.  I’m glad it has caught on...and very appreciative of everyone who has taken the time to share their 3RS work here.  Please keep it coming folks!

Joe A.

Enjoying this Great Hobby in memory of Dad & Pop...the "original Joe's" responsible for my interest in trains!!

LoganUP1982 posted:

Time to add full length handrails.139CE6C2-F602-4FBD-BF9C-173E28FB1E9C

Wow, that looks sharp in UP colors.

I still haven't finished installing mine, actually. I went through a few iterations trying to match the gloss of my black paint to the factory BNSF paint, and then came up with something more pressing to do. Maybe I'll borrow your pic for the shapeways page, lol.

thor73 posted:
LoganUP1982 posted:

Time to add full length handrails.139CE6C2-F602-4FBD-BF9C-173E28FB1E9C

Wow, that looks sharp in UP colors.

I still haven't finished installing mine, actually. I went through a few iterations trying to match the gloss of my black paint to the factory BNSF paint, and then came up with something more pressing to do. Maybe I'll borrow your pic for the shapeways page, lol.

F91E252E-747B-452E-9F88-1CE0775C8E0DI added the handrails!

it took me a lot of tries to get the paint color similar to the mth grey they use on the Union Pacific. It would always look good wet, but when it dried, the color would darken. Although it’s not perfect, it’s good enough for me.

still waiting on screws for the Kadees to deliver. This will be my first Kadee coupler installation ever...wish me luck!

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I stumbled onto this thread while scrolling through yesterday; what a great thread! I've always had a dislike for the Hulk hand or lobster claw couplers, even as a kid. I love scale couplers and and the weathering techniques and modeling skills of the various artists throughout all 7 pages. I haven't been very active here for quite some time, but can't believe I missed this thread that's been going for a while. I plan to get into weathering and adding scale draft gear to several 2 bay hoppers I plan to incorporate into a diorama of the Ashley CNJ shop yard, and part of the former Huber Breaker facility. Joe A, the originator of this thread, donated an Atlas die cast 2 bay hopper to the cause, having roots in the area and a passion for the CNJ. I have a growing collection of die cast 2 bay hoppers, and trying to obtain at least one from each of the 5 class 1 roads that serviced Ashley and the surrounding area mines. 

I can't think of everything         

God'sNot Dead

I usually post my stuff on the Sunday Scenic Showcase thread but should probably post here too. Here are some pics followed by a brief description of what I did to make this switcher "3 Rail Scale."imageimageimageimageimage

Just off my workbench this week is this MTH Railking Union Railroad SW1500. I'm not a rivet counter but I did find several things about the model that I wanted to change. First up was the Flexicoil sideframes. I swapped them out for the proper AAR type switcher sideframes, after cutting and grinding off the friction bearing journal boxes and sculpting on roller bearing journals with epoxy putty (Kneadatite).

There was also no way to fix the pilot without it looking odd (it looks like MTH used the pilot from the SW1 model) so I dragged out the styrene and built new ones. The plumbing around the couplers was scratch built with Tichy wire and fittings sculpted from epoxy. Also scratched were the drop steps and anti-climbers. The end handrail stanchions were cut off and replaced with Precision Scale brass stanchions soldered to the MTH bracket. Precision Scale also supplied the MU connections and coupler lift bar brackets. The lift bar itself was formed from Tichy .025 wire. New handrails were formed from .025 music wire.

Union RR switchers have gizmos all over them so I took the opportunity to add a few to the roof, including Precision Scale beacons, scrap wire conduit, and Miniatures by Eric firecracker antenna and horn. I have to admit to a taking a little artistic license in the roof-top details because my reference photos weren't clear and it seems the Union changes the locations of things on their locomotives about every week! To finish out the rest of the details I carved off the cast-on grab irons and replaced them with new ones formed from .025 Tichy wire, along with Tichy NBW castings. The final detail added, so ubiquitous among Union RR locomotives that it would be a sin to omit, was a scratch built cooler.

Touch up paint was applied and the model weathered with pan pastels, water-based artist's markers and airbrush paints, various acrylic paints, and sealed with Dullcote.

The last picture above shows the current project: the companion caboose for this locomotive. It's an MTH Premiere bay window caboose that is getting several modifications.

I also recently completed an SP MP15. It just involved .125 styrene spacers, Kadees, a couple of Mario's coupler boxes, touch up paint, and some weathering. It still needs new handrails.

imageimage

Sorry for the crappy pics of the SP unit. I am still learning my camera and had everything fouled up!

Joe Shipbaugh

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rail posted:

I stumbled onto this thread while scrolling through yesterday; what a great thread! I've always had a dislike for the Hulk hand or lobster claw couplers, even as a kid. I love scale couplers and and the weathering techniques and modeling skills of the various artists throughout all 7 pages. I haven't been very active here for quite some time, but can't believe I missed this thread that's been going for a while. I plan to get into weathering and adding scale draft gear to several 2 bay hoppers I plan to incorporate into a diorama of the Ashley CNJ shop yard, and part of the former Huber Breaker facility. Joe A, the originator of this thread, donated an Atlas die cast 2 bay hopper to the cause, having roots in the area and a passion for the CNJ. I have a growing collection of die cast 2 bay hoppers, and trying to obtain at least one from each of the 5 class 1 roads that serviced Ashley and the surrounding area mines. 

Glad you stumbled upon this thread, Don...and glad to have you jump on board the "3-Rail Scale" train!!  All those great loads you've been building over the years look sooooo much better in 3RS freight cars...LOL!!  I encourage you to ask any and all questions you may have about 3RS here in this thread...there's a great group of very talented folks posting here who are always willing to help!

Joe A.

Enjoying this Great Hobby in memory of Dad & Pop...the "original Joe's" responsible for my interest in trains!!

joedaddy posted:

I usually post my stuff on the Sunday Scenic Showcase thread but should probably post here too. Here are some pics followed by a brief description of what I did to make this switcher "3 Rail Scale."imageimage

Just off my workbench this week is this MTH Railking Union Railroad SW1500. I'm not a rivet counter but I did find several things about the model that I wanted to change. First up was the Flexicoil sideframes. I swapped them out for the proper AAR type switcher sideframes, after cutting and grinding off the friction bearing journal boxes and sculpting on roller bearing journals with epoxy putty (Kneadatite).

There was also no way to fix the pilot without it looking odd (it looks like MTH used the pilot from the SW1 model) so I dragged out the styrene and built new ones. The plumbing around the couplers was scratch built with Tichy wire and fittings sculpted from epoxy. Also scratched were the drop steps and anti-climbers. The end handrail stanchions were cut off and replaced with Precision Scale brass stanchions soldered to the MTH bracket. Precision Scale also supplied the MU connections and coupler lift bar brackets. The lift bar itself was formed from Tichy .025 wire. New handrails were formed from .025 music wire.

Union RR switchers have gizmos all over them so I took the opportunity to add a few to the roof, including Precision Scale beacons, scrap wire conduit, and Miniatures by Eric firecracker antenna and horn. I have to admit to a taking a little artistic license in the roof-top details because my reference photos weren't clear and it seems the Union changes the locations of things on their locomotives about every week! To finish out the rest of the details I carved off the cast-on grab irons and replaced them with new ones formed from .025 Tichy wire, along with Tichy NBW castings. The final detail added, so ubiquitous among Union RR locomotives that it would be a sin to omit, was a scratch built cooler.

Touch up paint was applied and the model weathered with pan pastels, water-based artist's markers and airbrush paints, various acrylic paints, and sealed with Dullcote.

The last picture above shows the current project: the companion caboose for this locomotive. It's an MTH Premiere bay window caboose that is getting several modifications.

I also recently completed an SP MP15. It just involved .125 styrene spacers, Kadees, a couple of Mario's coupler boxes, touch up paint, and some weathering. It still needs new handrails.

image

Sorry for the crappy pics of the SP unit. I am still learning my camera and had everything fouled up!

Joe Shipbaugh

I saw your post on the SSS thread yesterday, Joe.  Thanks for sharing your work in this thread as well.  Excellent work on these switchers!!

Joe A.

Enjoying this Great Hobby in memory of Dad & Pop...the "original Joe's" responsible for my interest in trains!!

I LOVE this thread and the work behind what we get to see here. But surely i'm not the only one who is perfectly INTIMIDATED by the artistry and skill depicted here. I know, I know--once you say you "can't" do something then that becomes the reason you can't do it. I CAN do this. I could contribute to this thread. I can get one thing done and posted here before I go to the nursing home in 10-15 years--exactly ONE thing. 

Or I can spend that time working on a complete, vaguely scale and modestly detailed layout that will never be published in OGR and will never contribute even ONE THING to this thread and will overall be perfectly mediocre. I chose to do the layout. It's going to bring me thousands of hours of happy train driving. But zero hours of scale detailing and scale modeling art.  So that's my choice.

My heart is with you guys--I love your work. But I can't contribute. I am busy elsewhere. And you guys are just to doggone GOOD at what you do. You all should be working in freaking museums. Or for Clarke Dunham. 

Don Merz

Don M.

rail posted:

I stumbled onto this thread while scrolling through yesterday; what a great thread! I've always had a dislike for the Hulk hand or lobster claw couplers, even as a kid. I love scale couplers and and the weathering techniques and modeling skills of the various artists throughout all 7 pages. I haven't been very active here for quite some time, but can't believe I missed this thread that's been going for a while. I plan to get into weathering and adding scale draft gear to several 2 bay hoppers I plan to incorporate into a diorama of the Ashley CNJ shop yard, and part of the former Huber Breaker facility. Joe A, the originator of this thread, donated an Atlas die cast 2 bay hopper to the cause, having roots in the area and a passion for the CNJ. I have a growing collection of die cast 2 bay hoppers, and trying to obtain at least one from each of the 5 class 1 roads that serviced Ashley and the surrounding area mines. 

In that case, you’re going to want to read this and how I worked with Ed to design a 3D printed scale draft gear box. 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...adees-to-atlaso-cars

Sweat the details!...



 

you can open it up where it's bent/curved around the handrail using a very small flat blade screwdriver, and pry it open. Then slide the handrail out enough to cut it in the middle where it was enclosed, then slide the end of the new rail inside the same stanchion, and using CA glue, it is fairly permanent. Looks so nice this way- it's safe to use .025 wire to match most locos.

Jeff Sohn

They look awesome!  

I have a pair of Lionel (one renumbered) that are slated for Kadee conversion. 

One thing about making the handrails, be careful, I’ve snapped a few stanchions when doing mine and vowed to not do it again!

Someday I might try doing the whole thing, as the wire I used looked really nice, but that’s a long way away. 

Thanks!

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

Will Ebbert posted:

What size wire do y'all use? 

Hi Will...I agree with what Jeff said above: .025 wire matches the "factory" railings on many of the more recent locomotives.  Some of the "older" modern locomotives (if that makes sense!) used .032 diameter railings.  Just a bit too heavy IMO, but if you're a person who wants to keep everything uniform you should probably have some of that on hand as well.

In the case of the MTH Premier VO-1000 pictured below, I used .032 wire on all the end railings and coupler cut levers to match the "factory" diameter; however, if I were to do it again, I would have used .025.

30

33

Joe A.

Enjoying this Great Hobby in memory of Dad & Pop...the "original Joe's" responsible for my interest in trains!!

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suzukovich posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

Still a work in progress...

C9F92C76-77FB-452F-85F4-EB06DBFD69D1

Protocraft couplers? I know been awhile.

Hi Suzukovich!

I did have a Protocraft on the 1607, back when it was the 1606 and was the lead unit with the open doors up front. I only had an AB set back then.

Then when I acquired an AA set, I took the shell off the original 1606 and put the 1607 dummy shell on to have two powered A units, and it was then I put a Kadee in the open doors to pull the train. 

Theres no coupler behind the closed pilot. 

The couplers shown are 740s with the PIM cut off. No need for them. In fact, I pull cut them off all my couplers. I don’t plan on doing any switching.  I have a short 743 inside the open pilot door of the 1607.

4586066D-6EC3-4726-B25A-D9A9A9E32159

Thanks for asking!

-Mario

PS - there’s other stuff too, like using black epoxy to fill the door seals so no light gets through, replacing the blue LED with a Yelo-Glo one (thanks @gunrunnerjohn!!!!, I have one more left!), painting the wheel rims, etc.  I still have to put on the ATS shoe, paint and install  the stock interior, replace the number boards I screwed up on (clear nail polish is not decal safe), add the rivet decals, paint the pilot... uggh. Then on to the F7!

Sweat the details!...



 

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Marv Wyant 082418 posted:

I really like the improved spacing between cars using  (in my opinion) Kadees on the Lionel gons. I am a renewed hobbyist and this spacing has troubled me in the past. Nice to see that I can fix this.

You’re so on the money!

Close coupling was the second reason I switched to Kadee couplers!

thanks!

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

CentralFan1976 posted:
suzukovich posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

Still a work in progress...

C9F92C76-77FB-452F-85F4-EB06DBFD69D1

Protocraft couplers? I know been awhile.

Hi Suzukovich!

I did have a Protocraft on the 1607, back when it was the 1606 and was the lead unit with the open doors up front. I only had an AB set back then.

Then when I acquired an AA set, I took the shell off the original 1606 and put the 1607 dummy shell on to have two powered A units, and it was then I put a Kadee in the open doors to pull the train. 

Theres no coupler behind the closed pilot. 

The couplers shown are 740s with the PIM cut off. No need for them. In fact, I pull cut them off all my couplers. I don’t plan on doing any switching.  I have a short 743 inside the open pilot door of the 1607.

4586066D-6EC3-4726-B25A-D9A9A9E32159

Thanks for asking!

-Mario

PS - there’s other stuff too, like using black epoxy to fill the door seals so no light gets through, replacing the blue LED with a Yelo-Glo one (thanks GunRunner!!!!, I have one more left!), painting the wheel rims, etc.  I still have to put on the ATS shoe, paint and install  the stock interior, replace the number boards I screwed up on (clear nail polish is not decal safe), add the rivet decals, paint the pilot... uggh. Then on to the F7!

I do the same thing now. The other problem is the have a tendency to make contact with the third rail. Been following. Really need to start working on the layout and start conversions again. Been side tracked with other things Including my latest purchase. Mechanicals for the most part done, bodywork is next.20190203_100715

US Army retired

Suncoast Regional Coordinator 

First Florida  Chapter of the MVPA HAZMAT SME(RID,DOD,IATA,ADR,CFR 49)  

 

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8C38BEC9-504A-4AC4-A3C4-E6DF9532FF1A3F2F78A0-9AE2-4715-9FD9-2AA58CFB7A654F3AD5C3-909F-494B-9EF5-30C5C4D41F6CCBC3B1E5-8686-4E73-9EF8-8738FE5C0CBDI picked this Atlas caboose up at my LHS used a few years back. It had broken handrails on the roof and no chimney. I added new handrails from music wire and Kadees. I just have to fix the broken end piece and add a new chimney.

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Progress finally coming along on the F7...

708AECCF-F7C8-4201-BE19-3C14F96F3269

The new pilot has arrived. 

B8221EA8-7E70-4733-B43B-C97468C9E5A4

The vertical grilles have been removed awaiting the donor shell with the horizontal grilles. 

FBA11D55-D0B5-4AEA-A79D-C2663651B50D655455AD-796D-4175-96AF-9B03751F13FA

I still have to lower the shell over the frame and mount the pilot, and then figure out what I need to do for the front coupler mount (probably Protocraft). 

Oh... and that moment you realize you need a set of FTs:

B0D4AE88-D597-4B9B-A80B-DE90A44989D6

Thanks!

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

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CentralFan1976 posted:

 

For those wondering...

the stock Lionel passenger-style pilots are a little short when positioned correctly...

FCFBF333-79DB-49C9-A379-3D16E4A75829C69F22AA-77BF-4D66-85EC-19D6C6DB5DEAB8749BF3-D161-49CC-8A24-9BA54034779F

Back to the drawing board.

😞

This is about where it’s going to end up...

you can see that the pilots are short in both directions; they sit too tall off the rail and in the correct position from the front, they’re too short on the side. 

2CE7FCE2-9038-48E2-8364-A014A59017C9BC32919C-EEB3-49D3-821E-A9D029214732

You can see how much higher they are compared to the P&D passenger pilot on the F3 next to it. 

69F5BD39-485C-4714-91BF-3AADFC47E1A8481A7729-AFE2-4614-8356-E5B2A44B3AA4

Why not go with another P&D pilot, you say?

Well, the P&D pilots without the doors are just too open. Once the doors were removed, they filled most of the opening with sheet metal, and that’s what the Lionel pilots look like. I’ll keep my wheels spinning for ideas for the correct pilot. 

Meanwhile, the good news is that it’ll be easy to install the side ladder with the pilot so far forward. 

Thanks!

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

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