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They look awesome!  

I have a pair of Lionel (one renumbered) that are slated for Kadee conversion. 

One thing about making the handrails, be careful, I’ve snapped a few stanchions when doing mine and vowed to not do it again!

Someday I might try doing the whole thing, as the wire I used looked really nice, but that’s a long way away. 

Thanks!

-Mario

Last edited by CentralFan1976
Will Ebbert posted:

What size wire do y'all use? 

Hi Will...I agree with what Jeff said above: .025 wire matches the "factory" railings on many of the more recent locomotives.  Some of the "older" modern locomotives (if that makes sense!) used .032 diameter railings.  Just a bit too heavy IMO, but if you're a person who wants to keep everything uniform you should probably have some of that on hand as well.

In the case of the MTH Premier VO-1000 pictured below, I used .032 wire on all the end railings and coupler cut levers to match the "factory" diameter; however, if I were to do it again, I would have used .025.

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Last edited by CNJ #1601
suzukovich posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

Still a work in progress...

C9F92C76-77FB-452F-85F4-EB06DBFD69D1

Protocraft couplers? I know been awhile.

Hi Suzukovich!

I did have a Protocraft on the 1607, back when it was the 1606 and was the lead unit with the open doors up front. I only had an AB set back then.

Then when I acquired an AA set, I took the shell off the original 1606 and put the 1607 dummy shell on to have two powered A units, and it was then I put a Kadee in the open doors to pull the train. 

Theres no coupler behind the closed pilot. 

The couplers shown are 740s with the PIM cut off. No need for them. In fact, I pull cut them off all my couplers. I don’t plan on doing any switching.  I have a short 743 inside the open pilot door of the 1607.

4586066D-6EC3-4726-B25A-D9A9A9E32159

Thanks for asking!

-Mario

PS - there’s other stuff too, like using black epoxy to fill the door seals so no light gets through, replacing the blue LED with a Yelo-Glo one (thanks @gunrunnerjohn!!!!, I have one more left!), painting the wheel rims, etc.  I still have to put on the ATS shoe, paint and install  the stock interior, replace the number boards I screwed up on (clear nail polish is not decal safe), add the rivet decals, paint the pilot... uggh. Then on to the F7!

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Last edited by CentralFan1976
CentralFan1976 posted:
suzukovich posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

Still a work in progress...

C9F92C76-77FB-452F-85F4-EB06DBFD69D1

Protocraft couplers? I know been awhile.

Hi Suzukovich!

I did have a Protocraft on the 1607, back when it was the 1606 and was the lead unit with the open doors up front. I only had an AB set back then.

Then when I acquired an AA set, I took the shell off the original 1606 and put the 1607 dummy shell on to have two powered A units, and it was then I put a Kadee in the open doors to pull the train. 

Theres no coupler behind the closed pilot. 

The couplers shown are 740s with the PIM cut off. No need for them. In fact, I pull cut them off all my couplers. I don’t plan on doing any switching.  I have a short 743 inside the open pilot door of the 1607.

4586066D-6EC3-4726-B25A-D9A9A9E32159

Thanks for asking!

-Mario

PS - there’s other stuff too, like using black epoxy to fill the door seals so no light gets through, replacing the blue LED with a Yelo-Glo one (thanks GunRunner!!!!, I have one more left!), painting the wheel rims, etc.  I still have to put on the ATS shoe, paint and install  the stock interior, replace the number boards I screwed up on (clear nail polish is not decal safe), add the rivet decals, paint the pilot... uggh. Then on to the F7!

I do the same thing now. The other problem is the have a tendency to make contact with the third rail. Been following. Really need to start working on the layout and start conversions again. Been side tracked with other things Including my latest purchase. Mechanicals for the most part done, bodywork is next.20190203_100715

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Progress finally coming along on the F7...

708AECCF-F7C8-4201-BE19-3C14F96F3269

The new pilot has arrived. 

B8221EA8-7E70-4733-B43B-C97468C9E5A4

The vertical grilles have been removed awaiting the donor shell with the horizontal grilles. 

FBA11D55-D0B5-4AEA-A79D-C2663651B50D655455AD-796D-4175-96AF-9B03751F13FA

I still have to lower the shell over the frame and mount the pilot, and then figure out what I need to do for the front coupler mount (probably Protocraft). 

Oh... and that moment you realize you need a set of FTs:

B0D4AE88-D597-4B9B-A80B-DE90A44989D6

Thanks!

-Mario

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CentralFan1976 posted:

 

For those wondering...

the stock Lionel passenger-style pilots are a little short when positioned correctly...

FCFBF333-79DB-49C9-A379-3D16E4A75829C69F22AA-77BF-4D66-85EC-19D6C6DB5DEAB8749BF3-D161-49CC-8A24-9BA54034779F

Back to the drawing board.

😞

This is about where it’s going to end up...

you can see that the pilots are short in both directions; they sit too tall off the rail and in the correct position from the front, they’re too short on the side. 

2CE7FCE2-9038-48E2-8364-A014A59017C9BC32919C-EEB3-49D3-821E-A9D029214732

You can see how much higher they are compared to the P&D passenger pilot on the F3 next to it. 

69F5BD39-485C-4714-91BF-3AADFC47E1A8481A7729-AFE2-4614-8356-E5B2A44B3AA4

Why not go with another P&D pilot, you say?

Well, the P&D pilots without the doors are just too open. Once the doors were removed, they filled most of the opening with sheet metal, and that’s what the Lionel pilots look like. I’ll keep my wheels spinning for ideas for the correct pilot. 

Meanwhile, the good news is that it’ll be easy to install the side ladder with the pilot so far forward. 

Thanks!

-Mario

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