MR-150 posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

 

My first (test) caboose. 

Before...C1ADDA6F-6C0C-4811-B51F-1234CCCE53B5

after...

895105F0-0195-4202-9DA2-04F3EAEC03E6

390CB399-2F55-491D-8461-74848B45C69A

68434FE5-7252-4131-861E-3F10D36E0A2B

We’ll see what comes next...

Thanks,

-Mario

What was the Lionel part number on that caboose,thanks

Hi, MR-150!

Its a mid-80s 6-6907. Way back when Lionel numbered their cars the SKU number.  I bought it NIB from my LHS, J.R. Junction (Syracuse), this past Thursday. 

Thanks. 

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

Will Ebbert posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:

Oh. And the milk cars...

E5030594-2A26-4D1B-8591-DA95579C43966248F86F-01DA-4B70-AD7E-8A9E178165E2A051EA13-AC4E-40F1-A4E9-4CCF33AD839F

Are those short shanks for such close coupling? Can they make O-72 curves? 

They are standard Kadee 740s and they won’t go around O40 FastTrack curves in the “back” position. (I just tried). The buffers are sprung and will apply pressure upon backing.

O72 is no problem at all. 

Plus, the shim design has a second set of holes to mount the box out farther, should you have tighter curves. 

You can see the whole story here: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...adee-conversion-beta

And watch the video here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=srz8qs4JhBo

If you have any questions, email or iMessage me, my email is in my profile.

thanks!

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

 Just added another car to my growing fleet of my rendition of the Rutland. Base car is a 40ft. Weaver. Removing the claw and 2 chassis ribs for wheel clearance lowers the car. The deck was gouged up and then painted with Scalecoat Grime #1. Then a light wash of grimy black was applied. Stirrups from Scale City, Atlas grab irons, and a brass brake wheel mounted to a brass rod was added. Lettering is from Protocraft. I looked for a Weaver car that I could use the stock data as far as weights and capacity. The car lettering is actually centered on the car where as by the design of the prototype Rutland it wasn't. The Weaver's stake pockets aren't the same. Car was lightly for me anyways weathered. The tractors I picked up at a recent show with this project in mind.

IMG_0737

IMG_0740

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Jeff78rr posted:

I just finished this MTH AC6000 into 3RS. MTH doesn't offer this loco in 2-rail with fixed pilots and full length handrails, so I added the finishing touches. The handrails are 0.025 brass wire bent in the correct shapes. Also added the conspicuity striping and Kadee 740's. I previously did 2 other AC6000s that go perfectly with this one.

IMG_0682

Jeff, this unit looks awesome!  Great work as usual!

Thank you,

Mike

Geojr posted:

Hey you three rail scale guys. I have two three rail scale MTH steam locos with the scale couplers on the tender. I want to remove them and go to conventional couplers with the remote couplers.

Can anyone help with the couplers???

Good grief man,,,,,,, why would you want to do THAT? Don't you know that the Kadee #805 "O Scale couplers" will actually couple with most of the lobster claws?

Hot Water posted:
Geojr posted:

Hey you three rail scale guys. I have two three rail scale MTH steam locos with the scale couplers on the tender. I want to remove them and go to conventional couplers with the remote couplers.

Can anyone help with the couplers???

Good grief man,,,,,,, why would you want to do THAT? Don't you know that the Kadee #805 "O Scale couplers" will actually couple with most of the lobster claws?

Yes, most scale do, ScaleCraft non-operating with claw:

IMG_2592

Later Gator,

  Dave

 

Here comes a Yankee with a blackened soul,
Heading to Gatow with a load of coal.
......Anonymous U. S. pilot during the Berlin Airlift

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So I took the 1606 shell off the F3 and made some mods, like putting the Kadee back on and removing some extraneous electronics (the battery harness and the smoke unit, et. al.) and took the shell from the non-powered 1607, swapping the melted number boards for a fresh set from Lionel.  

C5DBC0C3-CA21-46C4-9189-AE35702D5AEB

This will now be the trailing unit with the new 1606 becoming the lead. Of course the coupler cover will be closed on the 1606.

Thanks,

-Mario

Sweat the details!...



 

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Mario, your conversion work never ceases to amaze us.  Thank you for sharing.  BTW, we always look forward to and enjoy seeing your models run on our club layout.

Now we need to restock our Kadee inventory!

Jeff78rr posted:

I just finished this MTH AC6000 into 3RS. MTH doesn't offer this loco in 2-rail with fixed pilots and full length handrails, so I added the finishing touches. The handrails are 0.025 brass wire bent in the correct shapes. Also added the conspicuity striping and Kadee 740's. I previously did 2 other AC6000s that go perfectly with this one.

IMG_0682

Hello jeff, I was just wondering where you get your conspicuity striping for union pacific locomotives. When converting to fixed pilots, do you somehow attach the old trucks to the body or do you make the pilots from scratch or from shapewas. Also, have you ever converted an mth es44ac from 3 rail hovering pilots to 2 rail fixed pilots? If so, could you please help, as I am trying to convert a 3 rail union pacific es44ac to fixed pilots and full length handrails. Thanks for any help!

Logan, wow those pilots look awesome!!! I use Microscale 1/8" yellow striping decals, they work perfect for this application. The handrails can be replaced using brass wire, .025" from Tichy Group.  Remove the end rails and replace with hand-formed wire. 

Jeff Sohn

Jeff78rr posted:

Logan, wow those pilots look awesome!!! I use Microscale 1/8" yellow striping decals, theybwork perfect for this application. The handrails can be replaced using brass wire, .025" from atichynGroup.  Remove the end rails and replace with hand-formed wire. 

Thanks!

CNJ #1601 posted:
Dave_C posted:

 Joe, really nice job on the Rutland car. Can you comment on the chalk marks. Nice detail touch that really adds to the look of the car.  I've done a couple of cars with some Clover House dry transfers. Are these commercial products your using or are you doing these free hand ?

Thanks, Dave!  I make the chalk marks free hand with a combination of white or light gray colored pencils sharpened to a fine point.

I was just recently thinking of posting a question about this   What are the chalk markings?  Who would have written and what message etc.  Also the wooden placards, what for? In old photos and videos they seem to usually not have any postings on them and are surprisingly often well painted. 

pennsy484 posted:
CNJ #1601 posted:
Dave_C posted:

 Joe, really nice job on the Rutland car. Can you comment on the chalk marks. Nice detail touch that really adds to the look of the car.  I've done a couple of cars with some Clover House dry transfers. Are these commercial products your using or are you doing these free hand ?

Thanks, Dave!  I make the chalk marks free hand with a combination of white or light gray colored pencils sharpened to a fine point.

I was just recently thinking of posting a question about this   What are the chalk markings?  Who would have written and what message etc.  Also the wooden placards, what for? In old photos and videos they seem to usually not have any postings on them and are surprisingly often well painted. 

Hey Jeff, I just saw your post above from last night.  Click on the links below to read some info from the web regarding chalk marks and placards...

Chalk marks and route cards

Old Time Trains-Chalk it Up

Joe A.

Enjoying this Great Hobby in memory of Dad & Pop...the "original Joe's" responsible for my interest in trains!!

In regards to the tack boards, the large ones on the car doors were usually for shippers information and fragile or "Do Not Hump" signs. The smaller tack boards on the side sills were for clean out tags, shop tags, or weigh cards.   As to the chalk marking, we called them pool marks and were used by car inspectors to show that that car had been inspected at a certain date by a particular inspector. These marks were at the ends of the cars and had a cross thrrough them. You could also leave a note to another inspector as to stop bleeding the cars at that point or to have a second look at a possible problem with that car. I also would chalk an arrow pointing to the bleed rod to make it easier to see at night. Later we used white spray paint for this and also to paint the tops of the angle cock handles for the same reason.

Joe A. and YardRat, thank you, great info! 

It seems that in the old videos and photos of full out trains there are no cards on the boards.  Maybe I just never really look quite close enough.  Would the cards usually get removed before the train hit the main line?  

YardRat, you said "inspected at a certain date by a particular inspector. These marks were at the ends of the cars and had a cross through them", so initials and date would be a prototypical thing to scribble?  Also, sorry for being dense, but can you elaborate on "a cross through them".  Do you mean that one guy would inspect and write it, then someone else downstream would check it off by crossing through it?  Or is that at next inspection the guy putting his initials and date would cross off the previous marking? 

Finally, why do I care so much about these things?  You guys understand that as well I am sure.  

Jeff, The cards would stay on the cars once the train hit the main with the exception of shop tags. Those cars would be required by the FRA to be repaired at the point where shopped or if on the road (main) at the nearest location.  The chalk marked cross or X would have the inspectors initials, pool mark, date and location one in each of the four quadrants of the cross .  This was used for that particular yard's use only, it didn't mean much once the car left that yard.  A new pool mark would be added at the next terminal usually next to the previous one and it would start all over again. This pool mark system was in use when I hired on in the mechanical department in 1974 with Penn Central. With Conrail in the early eighties we no longer used this system unless some one missed something big and it caused a major derailment. Then we would break out the chalk and start pool marking again.  Eventually we were instructed to use a form (CRB-8 if I recall) and provide the first and last car numbers in our section of each train we inspected. We were wholly responsible for those cars.    Glad to help out, and yes I do understand trying to be as prototypical as possible.

270288D1-FE96-4F26-B42E-83C3815A7C2F5A965B65-17D4-4467-8120-DABA7F0A82F9Will Ebbert posted:
LoganUP1982 posted:

1BECCC20-20F6-4303-8016-4A972491EAEE69C6A13C-B603-41BA-8406-863AB038C769Time to paint and install

Were those pilots 3D printed? Where did you get them? Also the pictures are no longer available.

Sorry the image is no longer available, I’ll try to repost it. They are 3D printed, and I got them from Shapeways. Here is the link to the forum talking about it.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ilots-for-mth-es44ac

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 Kadees on Lionel 21" Challenger Passenger Cars using the pre-drilled holes and the included bracket....

Kadee Gap

Kadees mounted 3/16" back from OEM drilled holes....
20190123_200653

This were the first two cars I did.  Later cars I set the new mounting hole back 1/4" and the diaphragms touch perfectly.  BTW the diaphragms have a great deal of give or sponginess.  They compress very easily.  These are very nice cars, and with a little work (paint interior, add passengers and a few details) these cars will be awesome!

 

 

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