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Question? I know this will be opening a can of worms, but being new to the sport, who makes the best 3 rail track, switches, etc.  When I bought some of my engines, they came with different tracks, don't even know is they are compatiable.  I know old Lionel, but what about the stuff from Atlas, Mth, etc.  Do I throw it all away, or is it of use?  Most of my engines require 72 or larger curves.  As for arguing about who has the correct scale, etc, etc, layout, wouldn't you just allow each builder to love what he has made, and let it go at that.  I left a local car club for the same reason, it ceased to be fun, it just turned into a ***** session.  We got away from building and cruising, the point of the whole thing in the first place.  Let's keep this wonderful hobby open and ready for new thoughts and new people.   Just one old mans opinion.

First you ask us who makes the "best" track, and then you criticize us three sentences later for discussing the different options for modeling?  Huh?
 
As for your question, search the forum.  There are many threads discussing the pros and cons of the various track systems.
 
 
 
Originally Posted by Oregoncowboy:

Question? I know this will be opening a can of worms, but being new to the sport, who makes the best 3 rail track, switches, etc. 

 

As for arguing about who has the correct scale, etc, etc, layout, wouldn't you just allow each builder to love what he has made, and let it go at that.  I left a local car club for the same reason, it ceased to be fun, it just turned into a ***** session.  We got away from building and cruising, the point of the whole thing in the first place.  Let's keep this wonderful hobby open and ready for new thoughts and new people.   Just one old mans opinion.

 

Perhaps I from the wrong side of the tracks, but what I said was not meant to criticize, just stating a fact as I read through all the comments.  Some folks seem a bit thin skinned, but read them yourself..I'm from the west coast, and we have learned to cut people who are doing the best at what they love some slack.  I can't paint or draw worth a ****, but there are some things I do truly well.  I going to need a lot of help with this project, I can lay track, building and such, not so much.  And yes, I read and read the threads, great information, but they are all opinions.  As they used to say, I just want the straight scoop.  Perhaps I should just keep my thoughts to myself.  Nah, ain't going to happen.  Back to the Extra Board and await the call.

 

God bless you all.

Thanks Ron.   This what I was hoping for.  I just want to try to get whatever I'm doing right the first time.  Much better to spend your money moving forward, than tearing up mistakes and starting again.  I can't wait to get back home to see if my new,used engine has beat me there.  Bought my first brass engine, a UP Challanger, hope I did the right thing.  Sure did look good, if not as advertised it will make a great paperweight.

Oregoncowboy.  Welcome.  To answer your question, to give you a top level starting point in the context of 3RS (which is really not supposed to be about the track, but, well ..... I think it is), you can't go wrong with Ross Switches and Ross or Gargraves track.  Or Atlas O track and switches.  Also MTH Scaletraxx although harder to work with and limited in options. Then there's the more "toy train" (no disrespect intended) track systems like the new Lionel stuff and the MTH Realtraxx.

 

As suggested in other posts above -- spend some time searching and reading past forum topics on this subject.  It's been thoroughly discussed by the true leaders in this part of the hobby -- and is all there for you to research.

 

There is no simple answer and this is a topic where it is truly "different stokes for different folks" and you can really get mired down in opinions on this topic.

 

  For what it's worth I think you've got the right idea in doing the research before making a huge investment in track.  It never was cheap. But, now it's getting more and more costly.  One track brand has just about doubled in price since I bought it 10 or so years ago.

 

Good luck.

 

Austin Bill

I think defining what constitutes scale by the comments I have read so far is a matter that's best characterized as beauty is in the eyes of the beholder and that seems to fit the wiggle room there is for what is, in reality, is a definition that is not set in stone so one could say: "this is scale and that is not scale.. I think HO and it's influences has permeated O scale that led to Hi-rail and now.."scale." 

For the buyer who has bought this philosophy of modelling, I think will find that satisfying themselves in  reaching this high bar will result in more parsing over new product..as well as more modifications to out of the box models...and increased cost. 

I think some of the concern expressed here is that those who find this form not particularly attractive sense that they will be dragged into this if the manufacturer's follow their lead of scale realism dominating the O hobby...In other words if what constitutes O significantly changes. 

I suspect it won't....if there was a really big desire to go this route, two rail O scale should have taken off like rocket. It hasn't. At the same time from what I see everywhere I read this or that, there is a "sameness" to what is published..less variety of modeling styles..you could make the argument that what is published is an influence I suppose.

Its ( scale three rail ) a nominal sub grouping of interest that has it's own merits but frankly I do not see this as a big trend..it has its own limits. 

Take traction modeling for example..if you want a large variety of product, there is O scale realism as two rail O complete with high cost, brass models, a lot of scratch building, detail parts to be added..on and on. Again, this is a nominally small segment of the hobby. In scale traction,there are few if any alternatives. I just don't see "scale" really taking off to this extent...where choices become shrunken to the point of exasperation. As for me, I never saw a model train that I didn't like in some manner....

 

 

Last edited by electroliner

Will someone please clarify if "3-railscale" excludes those who purchase MTH Premier, Atlas and Weaver engines and cars that have the correct dimensions and details but use "oversize couplers", oversize rails and wheel flanges?

 

I scratchbuild many railroad cars based on prototype drawings and dimensions but are designed to operate with my existing 3-rail engines. If I change to Kadee couplers and scale wheels would they now be classified as "3-railscale"?

 

Samples attached.

 

 CPOX 820 O SCALE MODEL [10)

hepx 200 photo 004

CEBX 100 O SCALE MODEL [3)

000_3697

100_4634

KRL depressed center flatcar 005

SIEMENS KWUX 10 FLATCAR

WECX 202 schnabel

THRALL 65 foot mill GONDOLA

KRL 16450 SCALE MODEL 3

MEPX 20100 depressed center flatcar

Attachments

Images (11)
  • CPOX 820 O SCALE MODEL (10)
  • hepx 200 photo 004
  • CEBX 100 O SCALE MODEL (3)
  • 000_3697
  • 100_4634
  • KRL depressed center flatcar 005
  • SIEMENS KWUX 10 FLATCAR
  • WECX 202 schnabel
  • THRALL 65 foot mill GONDOLA
  • KRL 16450 SCALE MODEL 3
  • MEPX 20100 depressed center flatcar
Last edited by pro hobby

See the definition in the first post by Rich.

 

...3-Rail Scale is an attitude toward the O gauge hobby that derives satisfaction and fun from using the prototype as its guide. The intent in 3-Rail Scale is to continually strive for as much prototype realism as possible within the limitations of time, talent, and available space.

 

More than any other single thing, the desire for realism in miniature distinguishes 3-Rail Scale from other segments of the 3-rail hobby.

 

It's a term to "weigh", (pun intended), the options available in O gauge to create a model RR  that is representative of the real world. Even though most trains produced are 1/48, the track is 1/43 due to the spacing, so true scale is not possible unless track and train are modified or hand laid and custom built. Do what we like, and we can be happy. Perfection is unattainable, so close counts.

Don

suzukovich posted:

Pro Hobby. To answer your question and keep it simple,  is yes. 3RS implies that your cars are prototype and to 1/48 scale. Kadees yes. 2R wheel sets optional providing that your track will support them.

So, is converting to Kadees .... pretty much .... a hallmark of 3RS? Prototypically correct equipment (scale, era, and locale) with Kadees?

I ask because all the rest seems so subjective to me, such as how much scenery detail.

I don't know. I don't even think I understand what hi-rail is. lol

Happy Railroading.

Post

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