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Hi Fellow Railroaders, 

I've got a problem with all my post war car's. I would say about 95% of all my post war car's I own have the uncoupling shoes on them. What I need to know is, What kind of Railroad Track switches (Fastrack, Atlas, Ross) should I use with the cars and What about the cars themselves What should I do with them?

I really don't want to get rid of them considering that most of the cars I have look just as good as the current looking cars. Can someone please help me?

Thank you for taking the time to read my questions, comments and I hope to hear from anyone soon. 

Sincerely. 

Allan 

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I use Atlas silver nickel; switches are a wee bit of a problem but for the most part they run through fine. How fast you are going makes a difference. One part of my layout is a separate loop and primarily for operating cars which are almost all sliding shoes. They get through4 switches regularly. Or as noted above there are people willing to jump on the grenade for you!

I have several postwar cars with coil couplers and I use Fastrack.  I have had no issues with shoes hanging up on the switches.  I did fix up a 6411 flat car to use as an idler with my S2.  I found that going through the curve of an 060 switch, the button of the shoe was at the right angle to touch the center rail and fire the coupler.  No problems through 072 switches or straight through to 060's.

At what stage of layout building are you?  Just starting?  Doing everything over?

Also: What kind of track do you have now?  Do you have a big investment in any one kind of track?

 

What about the cars themselves What should I do with them?

For me, the answer is relatively easy: Run them on tubular O and enjoy them.

Steven J. Serenska

I have had some issues with Lionel 711 072 switches pulling the slide shoes off certain of my post war cars. I use the later 711 switches with the black plastic frog. The problem for me occurs with early post war flying shoe type and several of the redesign - but all made before 1950. Made after 1950 no problem so far. Finding a way to keep the shoes up is a good solution, but you would lose the function for which the shoes were intended.

Allan:

Jim Barrett did an OGR Backshop segment on modifying pick up shoes a number of years ago.  I'd be reasonably sure you could obtain that by contacting OGR.

The basic element of Jim's modification was to use either a Dremel rotary grinding tool or a file to angle the ends of the shoe. This enabled them to rise up and pass over blunt end guard rails in non Lionel switches,

Curt

Another point about these cars is some tend to uncouple when crossing lionel switches. This is caused by the flying shoe rivet sometimes being a tad too long. In this case carefully file it down until it no longer contacts the center rail of the switch as it passes over. Probably filing a slight angle on the shoe will help with getting snagged.

Rob

 

"I glue my shoes in the upright position. That way they are still there but do not cause operating problems. Since doing this I have had zero issues on my Ross switches and crossovers" 

I agree.

I use the old equipment little, but there are occasional cool pieces that wander on to my layout - I use silicone from the hardware store - run a bit under the shoe (make sure there is no oil in the area), press it up and hold it with tape overnight, and the shoe stays out of the way. Silicone is reversible and non-damaging; if it ever loosens, just repeat.

The couplers become dummies, but you can't have everything. 

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