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I'm thinking of purchasing a Fasttracks turnout jig for code 148 rail. On the Fasttracks website they offer a 35 watt soldering iron for soldering the rail. But they offer the same 35 watt iron for HO code 83 rail.

Wouldn't larger rail require a hotter iron and vice-versa?

Thanks, Al

 

Last edited by Al NJ
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a larger rail requires more power

but i think soldering just rail , a 35W will do the trick

if you are going to do more soldering, go for a soldering station with at least 50W

some power in reserve is always nice

the advantage off more power is that you can solder quicker, i find that a advantage when solfdering a wire to my track, the plastic sleepers are not that much damaged

Cor

I use a Weller 8200 100/140 Watt iron for soldering to tubular track - I found I needed high wattage because the rail acts as a heat sink. I also use a Harbor Freight 30W iron for smaller things. (Hey, at $3.99, I can replace the whole iron instead of buying tips). I also avoid using that new lead free solder and go out of my way to use 60/40.

I highly recommend a good quality iron made for electronics.   Make sure it has iron clad tips to prevent solder flux from eating away at the usual copper or nickel plated tips.  Weller (subsidiary of Apex tool) makes excellent units at a fair price.  Here is a link to a good iron that will last many years.. 

https://www.digikey.com/produc...WES51-120V-ND/526397

Make sure to get a few spare tips (part number ETA-ND ETP-ND and ETB-ND)

Jim Scorse posted:

I highly recommend a good quality iron made for electronics.   Make sure it has iron clad tips to prevent solder flux from eating away at the usual copper or nickel plated tips.  Weller (subsidiary of Apex tool) makes excellent units at a fair price.  Here is a link to a good iron that will last many years.. 

https://www.digikey.com/produc...WES51-120V-ND/526397

Make sure to get a few spare tips (part number ETA-ND ETP-ND and ETB-ND)

This seems to come up every six months or so.   As a Electronic tech with thirty years experience take my advise and stay away from Weller.  Any iron you need to purchase spare tips is a dead giveaway to stay away. Unless you need different sizes for different jobs.

Believe me when I say I've tried them all and this is the only one you should get.

Hakko iron

This seems to come up every six months or so.   As a Electronic tech with thirty years experience take my advise and stay away from Weller.  Any iron you need to purchase spare tips is a dead giveaway to stay away. Unless you need different sizes for different jobs

I don't understand this comment. I followed Gary's link to the Hakko iron. If I am reading the information correctly, the Hakko iron has replaceable tips. And the Hakko iron documentation does indicate that tips need to be replaced from time to time.  Tip life

Among the soldering gear I have is some old Ungar Imperial stuff. They offered tips made from various materials, including gold plated.
I never worked in the electronics industry, my soldering experience is limited to the home workshop, working on trains and the occasional printed circuit board (older style). My preference is for copper tips. They do have to be maintained, and will become pitted and worn. But they are easily replaced on my Ungar irons and Weller guns.

   I seldom reach for the light weights. Like welding, I solder hot and fast. I hate waiting on heat to transfer. A 35w and a 50w will both melt ties given the time for heat to creep. The hotter iron gets you in & out, leaving less time for heat to spread, more time to get a wet rag on it.

 Using metal across the track as a heat sink just before the ties helps on melting tons. A fat pully shaft key, pliers, screwdrivers, wrenchs, butter knifes, etc, anything metal can be a heat sink while you solder.

Use stainless tools and the chance of soldering to it is lessened tons.

A digital soldering station if you want to do it right.

An adjustment knob beats one set wattage.

I would only by a regular iron if budget demanded it.

A "solder sucker", a spring loaded solder vacuum, is worth every penny. I suggest the thinner pen type, steel over aluminum ...Empty it often, buy one you can change the piston seals on, and is easily to operate fully with the fingers on one hand, and that you can still push the plunger with the thumb of the same hand. And solder wick...braided copper. When heated, excess solder runs to the heat, just like when soldering copper pipe. Great for cleaning off old terminals, board traces/holes, etc..

And a Dollar store mini fan to blow solder/flux fumes out of your face is nice too Solder fumes are " acid smoke", in the eyes hurts, and it doesn't smell healty, or taste good for you either

  

I have to go with Gary, the Hakko Fx888D is one very nice soldering station.  There's a reason that it's widely used in industry, it's a very nice unit.  Yes, the tips eventually need replacement, depending on how much you solder.  However, mine is on a LOT, and I get many months from a tip before I deem it needing replacement.  It's a 65W iron, but with temperature control you can do delicate PCB work as well as heavier work.

This is the Weller GT, I've used one for 22 years in competition rc flying and touring car racing. It has very high heat, numerous tips, heats up in 3 to 5 seconds of trigger pull and is great for working around the layout where portability and under the layout soldering is required. This is the only Weller product that is truly great.

However, for building turnouts from scratch John's suggestion is probably the way to go. But for everything else where portability and convenience is needed I recommend this Weller 

Weller GT

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