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Make sure it runs. Either they test it or allow a refund if it doesn't.  My first tinplate set was a boxed Nickel Plate road with 7" 4 wheel freight cars, track and a transformer in C7 condition. I paid $75 and did not really question if I paid too much. I still have it and enjoy it! Of course, that set cost me way more than $75, because I got bit by the tinplate bug and started buying all sorts of trains!

George

I look at wheel and bearing condition on Marx. The wheels can be brittle and crack under a puller trying to get to bearings or to remove an armature. You can clean the arm. plates (but not remove it without removing at least one wheel 90% of the time) . If it was oiled at all, it will likely be a long term runner.

The motors, much like postwar Lionel, are near bullet proof. In fact, I can only recall one Marx ever dying. And it may have been battery operated?  My own record is 5 for 5 runners including one literally buried in the dirt floor garage for a decade or two brought back to life. I've had more than that many Lionel die on me, out of less than 30 in the same amount of time. 

  Those motors are one of the smallest; but weight is more of a limiter than power. It will pull those tin all day all night, or about 4 -6 freight if you manage a coupling car.

I'd pay $10-15 for nice but common tab & slot cars. Those are newer with plastic claws.

I've paid as little as $3 as much as $8 for average cars in the last decade. The highest I saw was $15 for a "rare" color combo.

It's on the edge for me at $60 impulse buy....maybe.

It sure would be fun  

  I WANT to see $50-55 without power & track.

  I might turn it into a long term shopping haggle; returning with my offer repeatedly, and a grape soda to close the deal (I have been know to hold out on a deal for a soda sometimes I bought )

Final consideration is; if that is a fat wheel engine or not? 

  Those wide wheels won't go through many turnouts. The gear is as large as diameter as the flange(below)

Together, the extra width hits turnout guide rails, riding up to derail. If the straight path of a turnout's long rail is clear of guide rails the Fat wheel locos can be run, but only facing one direction to keep the fat wheels to that orientation, and only through straights; no red turnouts. And not on Super O turnouts. And not on most magnet decoupling tracks.... I'm sure there are more "not" too.

But put it on a plain loop and it won't stop.

Fat wheel (lower) ... Still runs, and mostly stays railed just fine. This chipping (upper) is from a jaw-puller. The wheels are not as good in metallurgy as Lionel. Use a plate type puller if you must.

Many parts can be found new, but not brand new wheels.IMG_20180725_234109

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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