Where would you put switches? - Lionel Fastrack - UPDATE _ NEW PICS

I would add one pair per loop on opposite sides. This will allow you to run a train on any of the three loops. 

060 - 048

048 - 036.

Good but I would move the middle/ inner loop to the other side of the oval. This will eliminate some of the congestion on the one side.

Not sure what your plan for the center is, but connecting the inner loop provides a reversing loop. 

Taking some liberties based on what ToledoEd suggested.  Something like this...

I always like reverse loops in both directions when able.

Bryan,

You'll like the O72 switches as they are the flattest for crossovers.

I don't recall how you are operating your trains.

You may have mess with isolating loops if you are running conventionally.

Crossing over out of the corner helps a lot with the small radius switches. It takes the jerky movement out and makes engines and cars happy.

The switches set the track spacing. Make the outside loop first with the O72 crossovers. They need the 1 3/8" no-roadbed piece between the turn-outs and one half-roadbed piece on the thru end. RR-T has the as an X number.

The O48 and O36 don't use them.

BeachHead2's idea looks like a good start.

What's the current switch inventory?

I have a similar current layout and i put them like this.  It also took a lot of switches and it's helpful to have the same ones paired, back to back to make it all fit together reasonably nicely.  I can't say I truly recommend this -- it's just a data point for you. 

Thank you for the replies back...

I was looking for another post and stumbled across an older thread dealing with this very topic...   in that one they used the switches in the corners... o36-036 inner and middle... and then o-48 to o-48 connecting the outer and middle..

I only have two O-48's, so that will not work.

I have 12 O-72 switches and 10 O-36 switches...  I am saving for O-60 switches now... I am in too deep to start over with another brand of track. 

When I started out.. the O-60 was the odd switch out... no one used it... it was all O-36 or O-72....  not now, it has changed.

Lots of awesome layouts out there with O-60 turn out, ie; the 5x15 from Ken O Scale with the O-60 Bowtie... I added O-72 turnouts to it and it does not look good on paper.  Even assembling it on the table... it just does not look right.

I live in Canada.  Whereas I can buy a switch for $109.959 (US) ... it is more like $166.00 then 13% tax.  1 switch is just about $188.00 (CDN)

So, until then, this will get me up and running...

Bryan

Bryan,

That's even better having O72 & O36 switches - let's see what we can come with

So... I have 12 revisions to this layout...   I cannot imagine how the guys and gals ever designed layouts with RR or AR...

My benchwork was finished on Friday... 5 x 17 this gives me 2' on each end to reach.  I can access the left side for the first 7' feet of the layout, then my furnace gets in the way.  I cannot get the 5' after that' easily'  a step ladder gets me up there.   I deliberately went with this crossover configuration and placement because I can reach around both side - again with the step stool... whereas if i put them against the far wall... it would have been a total bummer - if there was... or when a derailment happens.

The turnouts are all O-72 with one O-36.. I forgot I had non working 'spare' turnouts... no biggie its only for the siding.

This layout gives me everything that I want in my layout.  3 trains... a must.  Conventionally or otherwise.

I wanted to use the MTH double engine house -   Use  my MTH Operating Platform 

Then alot of my city... check check and check...

The next phase is wiring.  This bogged down my last layout and I want to make it easy this time around... but that is another post.

I am so happy to have 2' on either side... way better than an extra 4' length wise.  My knees are sore from being on the wood top.. and is it normal to have the fastrack rail ties still imprinted in my knees? 

But it runs... I only have one train and its Thomas with the LionChief.  It is real slow, but the whole track is being powered off the 18 volts.

Finally... after years of not running.. we are up.

LionelRookie1992 posted:

Is there a gap in the bottom loop?

In the diagram yes... not when it was put together.  No gaps.

I would still find a way to have a reversing loop, only need one and they are extremely useful.  I would also not have 3 loops and instead reduce to 2 loops and incorporate 2 sidings.  Operationally it will be more interesting and useful.

I agree with TEXASSP

two loops and incorporate the reversing loop and some sidings it makes train operation MUCH more interesting.

I am having difficulty ‘seeing’ your idea of a reversing loop... 

is it possible for some one to draw in where I would put a reversing loop.

Bryan 

To get a pair of matching reversing loops (Highly recommended), you should be able to trace a figure 8 (can be as distorted as you like and dosen't require a use of a crossover as a pair of switches can function in that capacity) as you follow your track plan.

Some examples:

Fastrackguy posted:

...some one to draw in where I would put a reversing loop.

Just a quick example: