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So I have a MTH Premier first run Mikado . It was a proto 2 engine but has been upgraded to Proto 3 following an electronic failure of the PS-2 boards. The previous owner had removed the electro coupler and installed a Kadee coupler which seemed to be in a Plastic coupler box . I think the coupler was plastic and the screws that attached the box were metal.

When the engine came back from the upgrde, the coupler seemed high so we shimmed it today. At this point the height seems good but the coupler doesn't seem to grab the lionel claws on lionel cars like it once did. .

I have an 805 coupler which is metal and has a metal box and when installed, has the right height and works with Lionel claws. 

My question is what kadee should I use on MTH or other locomotives tenders. I was thinking that the metal coupler and box might cause an electrical problem that the electronic boards would not like. 

I am new at this using Kadees on three rail layouts so appreciate your guidance on this issue 

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If you cut the trip pin off, use whatever box you want because the short out risk is low. If you leave the trip pin on the kadee, the plastic box is safer. I use plastic boxes on engines, in case there’s a high spot on the center rail that makes contact or something drops in a switch. There’s no difference in strength as long as you put a screw through the center hole in the kadee box.  The screw takes the load. I doubt you can break the box before the engine breaks traction anyway.  805s will grab lobster claws, the 740s don’t. Make yourself a conversion car (Kadee on one end) and the problem goes away. 

Last edited by Boilermaker1

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