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I have just received that little loco, impulse buy on the bay in Germany.  It needs a total restoration which is not a problem, it is a two rail model. The pictures where bad quality and I was thinking maybe made in Japan in the fifties but after receiving it... I do not know.

Classic DC motor from the fifties, heavy piece all made of brass, very well done and smooth running. Wheels are steel models. One thing that look strange for me is the cab windows, original or not ?  All of this is in need of a total rebuilt and will be a nice project for the upcoming weeks.

Is it a model of a real locomotive or a freelance one ?  Many thanks for any suggestion. Daniel


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Thanks guys. Home made is a possibility, but .... it is really well  made and I was thinking more mae from a kit in the fifties or sixties..

Here a picture of the electric motor, it has exactly the same one that is in my previous loco 2-8-0 which I am working on. This type of motor is simple and powerfull, you may still find them in smaller size for HO models.




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I agree - scratchbuilt using what look like Lobaugh drivers - and very pleasing lines.  I would look at photos of Reading or New England prototypes to see if it is modeled after some actual locomotive.  How about a photo of themechanism and better ones of the tender?

I will look for you a bit - I have several Northeast steam books.

Thank you Bob, I have just opened the loco and take some more pictures.  The more I look at it I am sure that the chassis is not a home made model but i do not have your knowledge of the trains from that period abd finding some in France is not common at all.    I saw a picture of a real model of the New Heaven which was similar to that loco but where ....




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Here is the best I could do with the mechanism.  Lobaugh gearbox, looks like a frame milled from bar brass (easy if you have a milling machine), Lobaugh drivers and main rods, and possibly Lobaugh 4-4-0 cylinders.  It is also possible that the front of the frame is a Lobaugh casting, but it is difficult to tell from the photos.

A lot of modelers do work this good and better.  I have been privileged to meet a few of them.



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Last edited by bob2

I really should ask your permission to repeat your photos.  Hope you don't mind.  I brightened up your first photo, and with your permission, will share.  All in all, a really nice model.  I am beginning to think the frame is Lobaugh 4-4-0 with an extra axle slot.  A photo from underneath might verify that.

Edit - I found the underneath shot in your first set of photos.  Definitely Lobaugh style.  I will enhance it and be ready to post.  I note that on the big computer these photos look way better than on the iPad without brightening or enhancing.

Also - took a quick look for a prototype.  Not Reading, and not in the Cyclopediae that I have.  I will check LeMassena's book this evening, and Erie, if I can find my moldy copy. 

Last edited by bob2

Thanks so much Bob, and no problem at all for the pictures, you can do what you want with them. I use a computer and this is sometime less nice to look with a phone.

For me whatever the model it is will be after restoration a nice little model, and I just thought that I have even a passenger car that will look nice with it, just have to add Kadees and two railed it. Sorry it is an MTH model and I am not a big fan of made in CH... products but those cars are really nice.

And another bad picture.





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I have one of those coaches.  I would have six, but I don't care for plastic models.  Detail is superb!  As soon as I turn on the big computer I will re-post the enhanced photos.

I was sure I had a Lobaugh 4-4-0 around here to compare - so far it hasn't turned up.  If you do not see a joint, and the frame looks sand-cast, it is possible that Al Ellis' Lobaugh produced a few ten wheeler kits in the late 1940s.

Here we go - lightened up and enhanced:

Frenchy's ten-wheelerFrenchy's main frame

I did find my authentic Lobaugh 4-4-0.  The main frame shows similarities, but is not exact.  That precisely machined slot for the gearbox is identical, and definitely the pedestal binders are prewar Lobaugh.  I would look for sand cast marks between the rear drivers (a rough indentation between the machine marks) and possibly a frame extension soldered in for the front driver.

I don't think it was a kit, since Lobaugh still knew how to do rivets on smokeboxes after the war, as evidenced by the Greenbrier and Lost-Wax Mike.

If it were mine, I would first replace the tender trucks with Lobaugh, and second, remove the outline on the lower cab.  Maybe a dummy driver spring on the #1 driver.  All in all, the thing has charm!

I just received in the mail a live steam atrocity.  It has D-valve cylinders, which may be the only reusable part.  I was thinking SP S-8, but maybe one like this with an SP cab?

And speaking of atrocities - the Greek just got a new vacuum cleaner.  At first, I figured it had gestated in the chest cavity of a wayward astronaut, but now I am getting used to it.  If it dies, I may stuff it and put it on a train shelf - with wheels, it could be an anti-Thomas - an honorary steam locomotive.


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Daniel - I found this thing so charming that I continued the search.  On page 64 of Stagner's Rock Island Motive Power, 1933-1955, you will find #1522, a Rock Island T-31 class ten-wheeler.  It is really close, give or take some piping and the pilot.

I found this thing so charming I blocked out a frame in brass, pressed in some 66" USH drivers, and bolted the live steam cylinders to it.  I have a very long way to go before it is presentable - the stroke on the cylinders is shorter than normal O scale crankpin throw, so some serious machining will occur.  But in maybe a week I can share a preliminary photo.

Struggling with the boiler.  1/8” wall pipe is reluctant to bend into a firebox.  Not ready for photos yet.

I was trying to duplicate your driver spacing.  Turns out it is so close to the Harriman ten-wheeler that I can use my nickel silver cast side rods.  Elegant!

Valve gear is strange - almost drags the rail on a turnout.  And stroke is too short - new crankpins are going to happen.

Interesting project.

This is like a "bump" - I didn't want this thread to drift into the unknown.  And it is a progress report, sort of.  I have the boiler all blocked out and sitting on the frame, with the live steam cylinders installed.  Not quite ready for a photo - I think a cab would be nice before the first photo shoot.

I have four Harriman ten-wheelers, and I am sure every 2-rail forumite has seen photos of three of them.  I am very close to finishing the fourth, but here is number 3 - it is a little non-prototypical, with square counterweights and spoked lead truck wheels, but it illustrates what I am doing.  Wheelbases are almost identical, but the tailbeam on my copy of Daniel's model is shorter than the Harriman, and the boiler taper is much, much tamer.  I will post this, in hopes that this thread makes it another ten days while I do a cab.



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Bob, you are very talented, it looks very nice. Keep us informed of your progress, great to see the birth of a great model.

Simon, you are right, i will do better in the future. I am not very good taking pictures but some progress may be made.

Scale rail, there is certainly several Lobaugh parts in my little loco, I think it is a home made model using Lobaugh parts and a very good model builder who made an engine he enjoys. It would have been great if he has signed the loco but nothing on it.   I will continue to restore it in a near future and take better pictures of it, I am very pleased to have founded that one.

All my best wishes, Daniel

I went through this 30 years ago, when I was writing articles for OGR and OSN pretty much regularly.  This was before digital cameras, so I was submitting Kodak prints.

most folks take pictures of people, cars, landscapes, sunsets, etc.  When the print machine sees a black locomotive against a light background it darkens the background so you can see it better.  In the process your black locomotive becomes a blob.

One of my copilots suggested that the info was on the negative, and explained all this to me - so I learned how to specify "density."  Sometimes I had to stay there and insist.

Now, of course, you go into the editor, and make it lighter.  You can also sharpen it up - they have a digital autocorrelation function with various names.

Daniel has given me permission, so I will treat the photo you are interested in on the big computer.  The ones I have already done (above) are iPad-edited - not as good an editor.

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