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Originally Posted by D500:

snip...

 

The "70 mph coupling" is neither required nor un-fixable. I have posted more than once the simple fix for most of the "70 mph" units, so I won't do it again. A little analytical thought can come in handy.

D500 can you point me in the right direction for this information?  I did a search on your name and coupler and it still doesn't jump out at me. 

 

-rog

I guess I should have stated to watch the whole video. At the end, the stock coupler snaps. There was no good reason for this? The layout is level and the train was at speed. The coupler just decided it was time I guess.

 I need to finish converting all my cars. I have no idea why he stated about rivet counters. I guess, some guys think that two rail and swapping couplers is reserved for rivet counters??

 I'll have to post a new video of the lobster claws failing the same way. It happened to me several times.

Originally Posted by daveb:

 "I have o-27 track (lionel brown-tie, right) that is 42" diameter.  Most stuff with kadees willl work with that"

 

   Yeah, I had an industrial switching layout with those O-42 curves and ran body mounted couplers with no problem. Longest cars I tried were 50 footers so passenger cars or modern freight cars might not work but they'd look pretty bad on O-42 anyway. The O scale Kadees have a pretty wide gathering range compared to real couplers which can run on 90 foot radius on 40 foot cars(90 foot in O scale is 22.5 inches or in the O-42 ball park) ..DaveB

I'm running 2 Rail but it's the same idea... I have run Atlas F units through 27"r curves with 48 and 50 foot cars backwards and forwards with no problems. I haven't found a 4 axle diesel so far that won't work on 27"r with a 50 foot car in switching duty yet with Kadees.

 

Notable Kadee features:

 

-The look

-They couple so easily they won't push the car/cars you are coupling to

-Delayed uncoupling for hands free switching

-The older 800 series couplers will mate up to 3 rail lobster claws if you like

-The new 700 series have eliminated the external spring that liked to pop off

-They are basically a standard

-They are dead reliable

Originally Posted by D500: 

Lionel's coupler design works well - and is more prototypical than the Kadees, if you want to pick nits, which I don't. The execution of this design over time by various companies is all over the map, as we know. Some are flawless; some are...the others. 

 

The "70 mph coupling" is neither required nor un-fixable. I have posted more than once the simple fix for most of the "70 mph" units, so I won't do it again. A little analytical thought can come in handy.

Just my opinion but, no mater WHAT one does to modify/correct the big lobster claw type couplers, I defy you to couple into any standing single freight car, without moving it, and have the claw close & latch. 

That is not the only reason we swap to Kadees. Most people don't run long heavy trains where that occurs. Looks is the biggest reason I would say, and having to slam the cars together to get the knuckles to close. No one could ever convince me to keep the claws.... not gonna happen

Didn't a manufacturer state that he thought the lobster claws were outdated? I believe he went on to say that they would fade away.

 I really believe that someday very soon, new guys coming into the hobby will ask why three rail is still around. I'm not that big against the third rail, it's the coupler size alone that is too big for G scale! The wheel's flange size is ridiculous. The gap and the floating pilot (stairs) on modern diesels just looks wrong.

 I'm sure I make enemies every time with these replies. I have three rail stuff of my own. I just keep it in the closet.....  (Santa sees it sometimes )

If you put "opinion" at the end of that, you get hammered less.

 

Opinion.

 

Some folks like big couplers - when I was a kid, I was enamored of them, having only those funny things with the barb sticking out.  Then in the early 1950s I lusted after that short Lionel vista dome with the flat groove below the windows.  I could watch those department store layouts for hours.  It all looked great.

 

Now I cannot even handle the fact that our track gauge is slightly too wide.  At least I know how to do something about it.  The hobby has something for everyone - if I could afford it and had the time, all of my models would have Protocraft couplers.  In the meantime, Kadees go where I uncouple a lot, and dummies go everywhere else.

Originally Posted by Gregg:

How do you uncouple using Kadees?

 

Personally, I use wood chop-sticks sharpened a bit in the pencil sharpener. That works very well for our operations.

 

Do the magnets made for 3 rail work very well??. 

 

Yes. Try finding "Laidoffsick's" video of the process.

 

I loved  the feather touch coupling but what uncoupling?  Does the train uncouple if stopped over a magnet?

 

Only if, after you've stopped, you back up and "bunch the slack", then the pair of couplers stopped over the magnet will open.

 

  The electric uncoupler magnets  are just tooo much work.

 

I didn't know if there were Kadee electric uncoupler magnets available for O 3-Rail. 

 

I made this video 4 years ago to demonstrate how the uncoupling works, and "HANDS FREE" switching with Kadee couplers in 3 rail. Yes the magnets are visible, but with structures, weathering, and lots of detail on the layout..... no one is going to be paying attention to the magnets.

 

Try to do this with "The Claw"

 

 

Last edited by Former Member
Originally Posted by Hot Water:
Originally Posted by RRaddict2:

Can the Kadee couplers be mounted on MTH Rail King passenger cars?

Kadee couplers can be mounted on anything you like. Just remember to purchase the Kadee coupler height gauge so that each and every coupler you mount are ALL the same height.

The concept of standards may prove to be both novel and elusive........

You need to use spacers. Make them out of styrene, Micro Mark sells laser cut spacers, and CentralFan1976 sells 3D printed spacers for various applications.

 

If you click on my YouTube Channel linked below, in my signature, I did a series on the O Scale Kadee Coupler. It covers just about everything you want to know

Originally Posted by Gregg:

How do you uncouple using Kadees? Do the magnets made for 3 rail work very well??.  I loved  the feather touch coupling but what uncoupling?  Does the train uncouple if stopped over a magnet?  The electric uncoupler magnets  are just tooo much work.

Well that's the great thing about them!

They have metal rods hanging down that you can arc weld together!!

I learned about KD's so long ago that it seems weird that others haven't. I mean like a couple of decades?

 I guess it's because I came from HO scale originally. Everyone in HO knew about them. That's why sometimes I think 3 rail is in isolation. OPINION!!!

Hmm looks like i may want to invest in Kadee couplers for my cars. I wonder if they will work with the Atlas cars? I plan to eventually have a layout with long freight train runs as ive experienced the claw uncouplings in the past. Even with flat level surface ive had them just uncouple for no reason. And seeing as i work as a chemical tank driver in the industry i see how the real couplers work and how the guys uncouple the cars.

Since i dont have a layout right now i can work on making the time to do the conversion on my fleet of MTH, Lionel and Atlas freight cars.
Seeing the photos of the Kaydee equipped o gauge items was impressive. They make typically toy like models look that much more realistic without that battering ram of an OEM coupler sticking out there. Nice. Not for me for what I run in Ogauge toy trains, but on all of your models they really improve the look similar to HO realisum.

Who says you have to convert your whole fleet to Kadees?  I would recommend having a few "transition" cars with kadees on one end, and the traditional, oversized coupler on the other end.  Then you can take your time converting your fleet over or only do only the rolling stock you want to.  This also lets you leave the operating couplers on engines / tenders if you want to keep them or cars you are worried about maintaining the originality of.

 

It is very time consuming to convert over, but as many will tell you that its worth the effort for looks and reliability, and time consuming is part of the hobby in itself.  It is usually a one way conversion as often the old coupler part of the truck gets destroyed in the process that can only be restored by a complete truck replacement.

 

Will I convert my entire fleet over?  No way.  May be a few choice cars and along with some transitional cars.  Its not for everyone, but it does look better and I get why many scale guys and hi-railers go for it.

 

Don't even need transition cars if you still use the 800 series couplers. The will grab a 3R coupler and hang on just fine.

 

I ran my Golden Gate Depot El Capitan the 1st few times with a 3R coupler on the cars and a Kadee 740 on my F units. Works just fine with no transition car. The only thing that cause an issue is a grade. When coming down the hill, the slack runs in, and will cause separation between the 2 different types of couplers. Flat land....no problem.

Originally Posted by TheTrainMaster:
 I wonder if they will work with the Atlas cars?

They will work will ALL cars. Forum member CentralFan1976 sells a 3D printed spacer specifically for Atlas cars. Takes all the guess work out.

 

Watch my Kadee videos on YouTue... all your questions will be answered, and I show you how to convert them 

 

Originally Posted by pmilazzo:

Who says you have to convert your whole fleet to Kadees? 

 

I do! Mainly because they work better and look better.

 

I would recommend having a few "transition" cars with kadees on one end, and the traditional, oversized coupler on the other end. 

 

I started out that way, and then discovered that the claws STILL failed.

 

Then you can take your time converting your fleet over or only do only the rolling stock you want to.  This also lets you leave the operating couplers on engines / tenders if you want to keep them or cars you are worried about maintaining the originality of.

 

Ridiculous, in my opinion. I don't purchase locomotives and rolling stock to worry about "maintaing originality". I purchase stuff to OPERATE! The kadee couplers on the rear and fronts of the steam locomotives, as well as the few diesels I have with fixed pilots, look and work all the time.

 

It is very time consuming to convert over, but as many will tell you that its worth the effort for looks and reliability, and time consuming is part of the hobby in itself. 

 

Have you ever performed an "up-grade" to Kadee couplers? Why do you think that it is "time consuming"? Once you have the shims of various thicknesses, the various screw sizes, and the Kadee coupler sets, it really is pretty simple to up-grade MTH, Atlas, Weaver, and even some Lionel freight cars.

 

It is usually a one way conversion as often the old coupler part of the truck gets destroyed in the process that can only be restored by a complete truck replacement.

 

Will I convert my entire fleet over?  No way. 

 

Well, THAT is your choice.

 

May be a few choice cars and along with some transitional cars.  Its not for everyone, but it does look better and I get why many scale guys and hi-railers go for it.

 
It must be a LOT more popular than you believe, since even Lionel, the "last hold-out", is offering their latest scale freight rolling stock with Kadee compatible mounting pads. Thus, there must be something to the 3-Rail SCALE movement!

 

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
Originally Posted by TheTrainMaster:
 I wonder if they will work with the Atlas cars?

They will work will ALL cars. Forum member CentralFan1976 sells a 3D printed spacer specifically for Atlas cars. Takes all the guess work out.

 

Watch my Kadee videos on YouTue... all your questions will be answered, and I show you how to convert them 

 

Thanks! I will look over them now.

 

At this stage of the game I have the time to do the conversions and...they make great stress relievers after a long hard day. 

kadees are new to me I picked up 13 weaver 50 ft boxcars all with 2 rail wheels and kadees I can switch out the wheels to 3 rail wheels.  but then still have the kadee's now my question is to loose the kadees I would have to buy all new trucks for all 13 cars. could get expensive or swap out the wheel sets cheaper. but I have 031 curves is there a way to make the kadees work on 031 I tested a little and it seems the body's of the cars touch

Originally Posted by Jhainer:

kadees are new to me I picked up 13 weaver 50 ft boxcars all with 2 rail wheels and kadees I can switch out the wheels to 3 rail wheels.  but then still have the kadee's now my question is to loose the kadees I would have to buy all new trucks for all 13 cars. could get expensive or swap out the wheel sets cheaper. but I have 031 curves is there a way to make the kadees work on 031 I tested a little and it seems the body's of the cars touch

Hello Jhainer

 

What trucks came on the cars you purchased?  I can supply you with new wheels,axles,couplers or trucks. I bulk purchased a bunch of stuff at Weaver sale, more than I can use! 2rail-3rail and metal and Delrin wheels.

 

Clem 

Originally Posted by clem k:
Originally Posted by Jhainer:

kadees are new to me I picked up 13 weaver 50 ft boxcars all with 2 rail wheels and kadees I can switch out the wheels to 3 rail wheels.  but then still have the kadee's now my question is to loose the kadees I would have to buy all new trucks for all 13 cars. could get expensive or swap out the wheel sets cheaper. but I have 031 curves is there a way to make the kadees work on 031 I tested a little and it seems the body's of the cars touch

Hello Jhainer

 

What trucks came on the cars you purchased?  I can supply you with new wheels,axles,couplers or trucks. I bulk purchased a bunch of stuff at Weaver sale, more than I can use! 2rail-3rail and metal and Delrin wheels.

 

Clem 

Not sure here is the one I switched out wheels too from an 027 car I had laying around .

 

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