With Gargraves flexible track how big a gap do you allow at a joint?

If you leave a gap, it can snag wheels and rollers, and it will chew the heck out of rubber tires.

I built some hi-railer modules with Gargraves and Ross track years ago.  I filed that *@$^%%#*$ nub down on EVERY track pin.  What a tedious pain in the tuchus!  The idea of the nub is good but IMO they are too big as they come out of the stamping die.

If you leave the bump on the pin and push the hollow rail over it, you *could* introduce a slight hump at the joint, or a "pinch point" in the gauge.  If the pinch point is in a curve, or a loco's wheels are already gauged a little too wide, then it will hesitate at that spot which ruins the realism.  Bottom line I recommend you file the pins down at least a little so they JUST grab the inside of the rail.  My $.02.

My gaps are the thickness of a dremel cutoff wheel--miniscule.  With O gauge wheels, you can get away with murder.  I've seen gaps about 1/16 that trains easily roll over.  Noise?  Trains are noisy in real life.

My gaps are so small that you couldn't possibly tell by noise or sight that they are even there.  I have hundreds on my layout.

Almost does not seem to matter.  I have them close and some are ...well...nasty.

@Pingman posted:

In lieu of track pins, I used Gargraves track connectors, GG product # 910-4, which are strips of sheet metal/steel the fit tightly between the web of the rails--no gaps or deformed rails. Simply inert and tap the rail ends to eliminate gaps.  (No environmental issues in my walk-out basement layout location.

Ah!  The "fit-up" connectors!  Yes, I use those to close a loop or in a tight spot.  The rest of the time (vast majority) I use the GarGraves track pins, including the pig-tails, and I tap them as close as possible.

George

Like most here, I try to close the gaps, but at a few places - on or at the end of curves usually, there ends up a pretty big gap.  In those cases I cut a piece of rail with a cutoff disc, the length of the gap.  I then just slide it over the exposed pin and squeeze it closed.  I then solder it to the adjacent pieces to keep it in alignment with them.  Fortunately, I think I have only three or four of those replacements

At the end of curves with a big gap, you can tap the other end of the rail and close it up.

Much ado about nothing. I run trains everyday. Have replaced two tires on two 25 year old diesel engines due to drying out. One is lionel and one is Sam hongsa fm trainmaster. Have never replaced a tire on Lionel steamers. Gaps certainly do not chew up tires. I run 72 inch curves at moderate speed. Always run five 18 inch passenger cars or 15-20 freight cars all o gauge. I do not use any track cleaner chemical other that goo gone on thick build up crud mostly at Ross switches. All other track cleaning is by dry wipe with white rag. I do alternate all my engines which does decrease the run time of each but still they all see plenty of running time.

@romiller49 posted:

Much ado about nothing.

Different strokes for different folks Ron.

Absolutely John. We all have the same goals just different ways of getting there.

On our clubs new layout there were a number of large gaps in the rail. Some were probably from trying to set track too fast or not accounting then cutoff wheel thickness when cutting. (That’s my speculation I wasn’t there to lay track I just get to wire it 😅) any who either way there where gaps. We ended up just soldering the gaps and filing them to match the rail profile. This got old quick though with 2 150ft mainlines. I did always wonder how your supposed to get a good fit with the nubs on the track pins. Sounds like most just tap the track together and make it go in? Sounds like that’d make a decent electrical connection at the least. But probably not as reliable as solder 😉

The nubs on the pins are there for a reason, it keeps the pin from sliding all the way in one of the rails. If you grind them off how do you know the pin is all the way in both rails ? you may have 90 percent in one rail and the other just enough to line the rail but not enough for good electrical contact.  The slight bulge hurts nothing, I run some 2 rail equipment with never a problem.

I wondered when someone was going to point this out.   I thought it was obvious, but maybe not.

When I laid my Gargraves I tapped the joints together for no gap. If I felt a noticeable bump on the inside of the pin I filed it smooth. Over the years there's been some movement of the layout. My layout is in a temperature and humidity controlled room and still there has been some change in the gap in some places. If they look to large for my taste I just solder them and file if necessary.  

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that takes the band-aid approach and solders the joints.

Gar Graves also sells the pins without the nubs , but being cheap I just used a small file and cleaned them off.