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I have installed the LCRX, programmed it, and get everything but lights.

I have tried jumpering and using AUX-1 8 and 9 for cab lights

Removing the jumper and trying for rear lights

I have reversed the LED polarity so I know that is most likely not the issue.

NADA, is there a step not listed in the barebones diagram I am not doing?

I have been installing Cruise Commanders and RCDR's with no trouble but this is my first LCRX.

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Attached is a PDF with the Lionel LCRX wiring diagram. You might try incandescent bulbs for testing to make sure it is not an issue with the LEDs. Note that with pins B and L jumped, Cab lamp is controlled by AUX-2. Without the jumper pin E is the front and pin F is the read headlamp controlled by loco direction.

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@PennsyTurbine Thanks for the PDF's.  I had the one which came with the board. Just like learning to reverse the polarity of the LED with ERR boards, the secret handshake often takes a while to learn.

@Mellow Hudson Mike   I saved the thread and will give it a try, GRJ seems to have figured out the trick, I will need to check and make sure I have the right resistors (570 1/2W as well as a 680 1/4W) on hand and will also hook up a standard 16v lamp to see if that works.

This is in a F3A trailing unit that I added a RS Commander along with the LCRX. The old boards were toast and had been gutted years before.

I have placed (2) 3mm LED's in the holes normally used for the engineer figures for cab lights, and will be using a 5mm in the headlight bracket on the PWC series F3's.

This has worked well with ERR CC, DC commanders and RCDR's, so when I get it figured out, it will be similar to the other engines upgraded in how controlled and works.

Correct, you'd have the .01uf cap across the lighting outputs, this causes the triac to trigger.  Next you have the bridge between frame ground and the lighting output, the DC outputs of the bridge rectifier feed the 470 ohm resistor and the LED in series.  It's a lot of parts to get LED lighting, but with the oddity of the random polarity, it's the way you have to do it.

The reason you didn't need the .01uf cap on the ERR stuff is it's included in the design of those boards.

I made those diagrams 600 years ago using Excel (ha). Cracks me up when I see them. The dirty trick for LEDs was to run a pull down resistor in parallel with the LED and it’s dropping resistor. There are probably diagrams showing it somewhere out there. The polarity flip was controllable and repeatable from what I remember. I can’t remember if it was flipped by cycling AUX-1, 0. I had a caboose or two with bicolor LEDs that could change color on command.

Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

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