Woodland Scenics Question

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Model Structures posted:

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Thank you Joe

Model Structures posted:

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Hi guys,

With all do respect Joe you are not correct at all.

As you can see from the instructions manual included with your building, the "Just Plug Hub" in but one of the three ways you can power the building.

You can (and I DO) simply power the building right off of track power (AC) which is option # 3 in your manual which I have included below:

As you can see you can feed anywhere between 16-20VAC directly to the building without any damage. The building has a built in Full Wave Bridge Rectifier and the required resistors to step track voltage down to what is safe for the LED's.

I have two Woodland Buildings and both are simply soldered to the bottom of my Fastrack for power.

Hope this helps!

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Model Structures posted:

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Hi guys,

With all do respect Joe you are not correct at all.

As you can see from the instructions manual included with your building, the "Just Plug Hub" in but one of the three ways you can power the building.

You can (and I DO) simply power the building right off of track power (AC) which is option # 3 in your manual which I have included below:

As you can see you can feed anywhere between 16-20VAC directly to the building without any damage. The building has a built in Full Wave Bridge Rectifier and the required resistors to step track voltage down to what is safe for the LED's.

I have two Woodland Buildings and both are simply soldered to the bottom of my Fastrack for power.

Hope this helps!

Did not know that - thanks for the info. Is this circuit board something new or has it been installed since the beginning of plug and play?

Joe

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Hey Bryant,

I have ready (and want to try) that Tamiya Clear Yellow # X-24 can be used to tint the white led light and help turn them a bit yellow.  I definitely want to try this on my Morton Salt building as the lighting is WAYYYYYY to bright for my taste.

Hope this helps!

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Thanks Bryant, exactly what I was looking for .   Black/Hot and White/common.       You da man.   

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Hey Bryant,

I have ready (and want to try) that Tamiya Clear Yellow # X-24 can be used to tint the white led light and help turn them a bit yellow.  I definitely want to try this on my Morton Salt building as the lighting is WAYYYYYY to bright for my taste.

Hope this helps!

You might want to consider getting some Tamiya clear orange.  Tamiya yellow may not be dark enough.  I find it pretty difficult to dissect the structures such as the Red Owl and York Hotel.  I also have Wally's Shell, Pop's House and the Train Station.  Power Plant and World Headquarters were too big for the layout and never made it to the top of the layout.  I will be selling those off soon.

Here's what I think is the board in question courtesy of member @TEDW from this thread.

If this is indeed what you have, then yes you can apply train transformer AC power to the pair of wires on the top of the photo.  And you even get individual brightness control (via the blue screwdriver trimpots) to the individual LEDs (3 shown on the bottom of the circuit board).

Model Structures posted:

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Model Structures posted:

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Hi guys,

With all do respect Joe you are not correct at all.

As you can see from the instructions manual included with your building, the "Just Plug Hub" in but one of the three ways you can power the building.

You can (and I DO) simply power the building right off of track power (AC) which is option # 3 in your manual which I have included below:

As you can see you can feed anywhere between 16-20VAC directly to the building without any damage. The building has a built in Full Wave Bridge Rectifier and the required resistors to step track voltage down to what is safe for the LED's.

I have two Woodland Buildings and both are simply soldered to the bottom of my Fastrack for power.

Hope this helps!

Did not know that - thanks for the info. Is this circuit board something new or has it been installed since the beginning of plug and play?

Joe

Hey Joe,

I am more than glad I could help.

I do not know when they started to use this system but it was made clear to me ,when I bought my first building at my LHS (Ready to Roll), that they can be track powered so I took his word for it and also was also reassured by reading in the manual that it can be powered directly off of the same voltage as the track. Never looked back since.

I just purchased the water tower a month ago and it too was a simple track connection and done. (I am a huge fan of That 70's Show, and the water tower instantly reminded me of the tower from the show, minus the "5 leaf clover" they paint on it which I am trying to recreate.)

P.s. Joe, I LOVE your fuel stations! I hope to one day put an order for one, my fuel depot is in dire need of your help! LOL

Thanks!

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Hey Bryant,

I have ready (and want to try) that Tamiya Clear Yellow # X-24 can be used to tint the white led light and help turn them a bit yellow.  I definitely want to try this on my Morton Salt building as the lighting is WAYYYYYY to bright for my taste.

Hope this helps!

You might want to consider getting some Tamiya clear orange.  Tamiya yellow may not be dark enough.  I find it pretty difficult to dissect the structures such as the Red Owl and York Hotel.  I also have Wally's Shell, Pop's House and the Train Station.  Power Plant and World Headquarters were too big for the layout and never made it to the top of the layout.  I will be selling those off soon.

You are right it is orange and not yellow. Glad you corrected me my friend.

Thanks!

Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange.  About $2 per bottle at LHS for more than a lifetime supply!

White LEDs have a dominant "blue" spectrum.  If you use yellow you end up with a Greenish tint which looks pretty bad!  That is, Blue + Yellow => Green.

From a previous thread showing X-26 on white LEDs.  I apply it with Q-tip.  Multiple coats darken.  Q-tip dabbed in alcohol will remove.

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

Alabama Joe posted:

i just purchased Tge Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. BR 5859.     It says it’s designed to operate with their Just Plug Lighting System. Can I just connect the two wires to my transformer and have all lights operate?   

I purchased the Corner Emporium last month from them.  I run one of my ZW-L transformer outputs at 14 VAC for structure lighting (mostly MTH & Lionel).  I fed that with that output.  Black wire hot and the white wire common (I called them and checked).  I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

Hey Bryant,

I have ready (and want to try) that Tamiya Clear Yellow # X-24 can be used to tint the white led light and help turn them a bit yellow.  I definitely want to try this on my Morton Salt building as the lighting is WAYYYYYY to bright for my taste.

Hope this helps!

Let us know how that turns out, as I'm interested in darkening those lights as well. I was thinking of using Krylon "Frosted Glass" on them - I use that on clear building windows so you can't see through.

FWIW  Here’s a photo of the Menards Watkins bldg.  The upper story lights have been painted with the Tamiya X-26 clear orange.  The lower lights were left original to simulate fluorescent in stores.  But the whole building is powered at 3vdc, which makes the most difference in toning them down in brightness.  YMMV

TedW posted:

FWIW  Here’s a photo of the Watkins bldg.  The upper story lights have been painted with the Tamiya X-26 clear orange.  The lower lights were left original to simulate fluorescent in stores.  But the whole building is powered at 3vdc, which makes the most difference in toning them down in brightness.  YMMV

 

Looks great Ted!

FWIW it is worth noting that although YOU powered the building with 3VDC, the manufacture DOES NOT RECOMMEND nor give you the option (by any easy way) to power the building w/ 3VDC.

Thanks for the beautiful photo!

Daniel, I’m not sure I get your point.  I did edit my post to reflect it’s a Menards building, not WS.  I do have three WS buildings which I turn the pots down to low and, power them at 10vdc.  They operate quite satisfactorily at that voltage.

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

I really wish they used the same power system on the Menards buildings.  The Emporium has a soft light which goes well with the MTH and Lionel structures.  The Menards lights are way too bright and creates a weird looking imbalance of light on the layout.  I purchased the proper boards (Thanks Gunrunner John) to rectify to dc and drop the voltage of the LEDs.  My hope is to soften them down to match better. 

If you used the WS plug and play panel, they have dimmer switch knobs on them. I have three structures wired to those dimmers, each at different settings (one rotated all the way to dark, pending the interior that will go there eventually, then all I have to do is rotate the switch for the lighting already set in place).

If you don't need dimmers, then there's an auxiliary panel with no dimmers, so the structures you're fine with full intensity can go there. That's what I did for a series of lights I'm fine with as-is.

TedW posted:

Daniel, I’m not sure I get your point.  I did edit my post to reflect it’s a Menards building, not WS.  I do have three WS buildings which I turn the pots down to low and, power them at 10vdc.  They operate quite satisfactorily at that voltage.

 

Ted,

My point is that you powered your buildings with 3 volts while Menard's recommends 4.5 volts DC. I don't want someone to apply 3 volts to a Menard's product without them knowing that it is not the manufacturer's recommendation to do so. I am not saying you are doing anything wrong I am just pointing out to others that following your advice is not necessarily in line with what the manufacturer had planned for that specific product.

I'm also not saying that applying 3 volts DC to a Menards building will cause any damage. Just clarifying so that others in the future understand why you used 3v vs 4.5.

Sorry for the confusion Ted!

Daniel J. Gonzalez posted:

Model Structures posted:

Yes but make sure you step down the voltage before the building. The Woodland Scenics light hubs put out 16VDC. All lights have resistors in them that knock the16VDC down to 3 VDC. You will need to verify the resistors are in deed attached inside the building. If so then somewhere between 10 and 16VDC should be ok.

Joe

Hi guys,

With all do respect Joe you are not correct at all.

As you can see from the instructions manual included with your building, the "Just Plug Hub" in but one of the three ways you can power the building.

You can (and I DO) simply power the building right off of track power (AC) which is option # 3 in your manual which I have included below:

As you can see you can feed anywhere between 16-20VAC directly to the building without any damage. The building has a built in Full Wave Bridge Rectifier and the required resistors to step track voltage down to what is safe for the LED's.

I have two Woodland Buildings and both are simply soldered to the bottom of my Fastrack for power.

Hope this helps!

Regardless of how you power the WS buildings, and you no doubt save money by not having to purchase the Just Plug power supply, you can use any spare output ports in the buildings as a hub to run lights to other buildings.  I have the cobbler building and use the unused ports in it to run lights to other structures.  Saves having to by extender hubs.

I would like to weigh in on this subject because I am in the middle of adding the Just Plug System to my store layout that has every building and vehicle that they have made to date, and I am having a blast doing it.    It seems a shame to lose the advantages of the Just Plug system. 

I usually stay out of advertising in the middle of a thread, but I see that I might be of assistance here.  I am selling the light hubs for $10.43 instead of the list price of $16.99 in order to make full use of the system more affordable for members.  So for about $10 bucks you can control 4 buildings, and save time wiring them, and get dimming and switching if you want.  Or substitute a sequencing hub for about 5 bucks more.

I really love using the system just as it was designed with Plugs ready to go and a sensible modular architecture.

I am generally thrifty and do spend on something that I don't thing is worth it, nor would I recommend something I dont buy for myself.  

It is nice to have switch control over the buildings and now with the sequencer I plan to keep the first floor of the buildings a in a constant on state and add individual lights to the second floor that will come on as if someone is moving through the building. 

I have inserted a picture of a section I did.  I just noticed another advantage of using the control box.  I noticed that the photo was washing out the bright lights of most of the cars, so as a demonstration I dimmed the chevy wagon light which is the 5th from the left.  

By the way the Police Cars are really fun.  On my trailer park attached to a farm I am having the police bust a bunch of bootleggers loading moonshine into one of the Woodland Scenics stake body trucks.  The bubble gum machine on top flashes.

I will post it when done.

I am wiring the Woodland Scenics Feedmill today.  Cant wait to see it done.

Mike

Crocodile Train Store posted:

I would like to weigh in on this subject because I am in the middle of adding the Just Plug System to my store layout that has every building and vehicle that they have made to date, and I am having a blast doing it.    It seems a shame to lose the advantages of the Just Plug system. 

I usually stay out of advertising in the middle of a thread, but I see that I might be of assistance here.  I am selling the light hubs for $10.43 instead of the list price of $16.99 in order to make full use of the system more affordable for members.  So for about $10 bucks you can control 4 buildings, and save time wiring them, and get dimming and switching if you want.  Or substitute a sequencing hub for about 5 bucks more.

I really love using the system just as it was designed with Plugs ready to go and a sensible modular architecture.

I am generally thrifty and do spend on something that I don't thing is worth it, nor would I recommend something I dont buy for myself.  

It is nice to have switch control over the buildings and now with the sequencer I plan to keep the first floor of the buildings a in a constant on state and add individual lights to the second floor that will come on as if someone is moving through the building. 

I have inserted a picture of a section I did.  I just noticed another advantage of using the control box.  I noticed that the photo was washing out the bright lights of most of the cars, so as a demonstration I dimmed the chevy wagon light which is the 5th from the left.  

By the way the Police Cars are really fun.  On my trailer park attached to a farm I am having the police bust a bunch of bootleggers loading moonshine into one of the Woodland Scenics stake body trucks.  The bubble gum machine on top flashes.

I will post it when done.

I am wiring the Woodland Scenics Feedmill today.  Cant wait to see it done.

Mike

 

 

Mike, thanks for your response.     Just one more question, your Plug Light Hub can be wired to your transformer or a WALL OUTLET?

Mike,

That's a great price on the WS hubs you are offering.  I'm still in early try out phase for mine but if I start an expansion I'll look your way.  Thanks.

FWIW, one of the problems I always have with lighting is whether it's nighttime or daytime. For instance, Ted's picture looks great, but it appears it was taken in a dark room and I wonder what it looks like when the lights are on or it's daylight outside. I usually want my buildings and structures to look lit during the daytime or when the lights are on so people can see them, but that makes them too bright at night.

I didn't realize the JPS system had a dimming feature, so I'll have to look into that.  

Alabama Joe posted:

 

...Plug Light Hub can be wired to your transformer or a WALL OUTLET?

The Just Plug system has its own Wall-Outlet adapter.  $19.99 MSRP though I don't know what Crocodile's price is.  Obviously one advantage of the Just Plug system is that it is a "system" so it's one-stop-shopping.  But if you're willing/able to fiddle with wiring, cutting, splicing, crimping, maybe some soldering...and hunting around to source components you can save a few bucks.

You can get the same 24 Watts of wall outlet power for less (ebay listing shown) but will come with the wrong connector for plug-and-play with a Light Hub.  So you then forage for adapters or connectors to perform the mating ritual. 

Just my opinion, but it comes down to the classic trade off of time vs. money. 

Currently I have all my building lights connected to my Lionel Postwar ZW.      Having multiple power sources for lights is not desirable, but if that is THE only solution,  I can adjust.     Cutting the connector and wiring to my ZW is what I prefer, but I want to make sure all lights will operate as designed.    I can live without dimming.       Can I just cut the connector and wire to ZW and ALL lights on the H&H Feed will function? 

Richie C. posted:

... one of the problems I always have with lighting is whether it's nighttime or daytime...

The WS Just Plug Light Hub dimmer controls are essentially low-power devices...suitable for controlling brightness for 1 LED or maybe a small building with just a few LEDs.  So depending on the number of buildings/LEDs in your layout it could be a hassle to adjust multiple dimmer controls for day vs. night operation.

On paper, you'd think a single toggle switch to adjust brightness between high and low would be the cat's pajamas.  But as I see it, for "real" O-gauge layouts (vs. a single-manufacturer store display) guys mix WS buildings with some Menards LED structures, a few Lemax buildings, and maybe some Lionel/MTH buildings with incandescent bulbs.  In other words, lots of power flowing around with different ways and means to adjust brightness.  A single toggle switch would be a challenge, and who wants to fiddle with a dozen or so controls.  So it would be on a case-by-case basis.  It's not expensive - maybe $10 in control components for a typical O-gauge layout but would involve messing around with wiring, modules, using a voltmeter, some light soldering, etc.  But if you have a DIY inclination and some spare time, it could be a fun project.

Alabama Joe posted:

Currently I have all my building lights connected to my Lionel Postwar ZW.      Having multiple power sources for lights is not desirable, but if that is THE only solution,  I can adjust.     Cutting the connector and wiring to my ZW is what I prefer, but I want to make sure all lights will operate as designed.    I can live without dimming.       Can I just cut the connector and wire to ZW and ALL lights on the H&H Feed will function? 

Right from the instructions for the H&H.  Apply 16-20VAC which your ZW can obviously supply.  And you'll get individual control (using the blue trimmer adjustments) of up to 4 circuits albeit these controls may not be readily accessible like an external Light Hub.

Crocodile Train Store posted:

I would like to weigh in on this subject because I am in the middle of adding the Just Plug System to my store layout that has every building and vehicle that they have made to date, and I am having a blast doing it.    It seems a shame to lose the advantages of the Just Plug system. 

I usually stay out of advertising in the middle of a thread, but I see that I might be of assistance here.  I am selling the light hubs for $10.43 instead of the list price of $16.99 in order to make full use of the system more affordable for members.  So for about $10 bucks you can control 4 buildings, and save time wiring them, and get dimming and switching if you want.  Or substitute a sequencing hub for about 5 bucks more.

I really love using the system just as it was designed with Plugs ready to go and a sensible modular architecture.

I am generally thrifty and do spend on something that I don't thing is worth it, nor would I recommend something I dont buy for myself.  

It is nice to have switch control over the buildings and now with the sequencer I plan to keep the first floor of the buildings a in a constant on state and add individual lights to the second floor that will come on as if someone is moving through the building. 

I have inserted a picture of a section I did.  I just noticed another advantage of using the control box.  I noticed that the photo was washing out the bright lights of most of the cars, so as a demonstration I dimmed the chevy wagon light which is the 5th from the left.  

By the way the Police Cars are really fun.  On my trailer park attached to a farm I am having the police bust a bunch of bootleggers loading moonshine into one of the Woodland Scenics stake body trucks.  The bubble gum machine on top flashes.

I will post it when done.

I am wiring the Woodland Scenics Feedmill today.  Cant wait to see it done.

Mike

 

 

Mike, I think your buildings and lights in your little town look great. Arnold 

I know nothing about this particular system,  but I will point out that  those plugs are readily available. They appear to be the style used in RC cars, which are called JST connectors. I use them for all kinds of things. Here is one source:

https://www.amazon.com/pairs-P...Female/dp/B0089RAXB2

They come in several sizes, so you need to be careful.

Thanks Arnold

Also,

It has taken me a little time to get back  to answer the question "...Plug Light Hub can be wired to your transformer or a WALL OUTLET?"  

The output of the power supply used to power the Just Plug is 16v AC., so, as other folks have mentioned, you could obtain the correct cable to power the Light Hub from your ZW, and adjusting to 16V if you want to be exact.  However with one Power Supply that retails for $19 and I sell for $11.20, why not get the proper supply which will power up to 16 buildings, 4 per hub with 4 hubs in an expanded system via the expansion hub, or just the one or two buildings or vehicles you might have.  Don't connect the 16v AC to the individual led, only to the Light Hub or Expansion Hub, or circuit board with a 16V  AC input.  

As a retired Industrial Controls trainer who happens to have a complete obsolete Siemens APACS industrial control system lying around in the basement complete with Ladder Logic, Sequential Function Chart, Function Block and command line language options, and Numerous I/O modules and PLC Controller, I have often thought of having fun and utilizing my old training system to control my trains via computer.  So if rolling your own is more fun then the pre packaged gear have fun.

Enjoy the ride,

Mike

stan2004 posted:

Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange.  About $2 per bottle at LHS for more than a lifetime supply!

White LEDs have a dominant "blue" spectrum.  If you use yellow you end up with a Greenish tint which looks pretty bad!  That is, Blue + Yellow => Green.

From a previous thread showing X-26 on white LEDs.  I apply it with Q-tip.  Multiple coats darken.  Q-tip dabbed in alcohol will remove.

 

The paint works great and I have also found that plain masking tape works as well  It was ideal for toning down the very bright lighting on the Morton Salt Building and Wally's Shell.

Bruce