Workbench ???

 

What width and height do you use for scratch building?  Best width to work on train maintenance an d repair?

Height - I used to only use my regular work bench that is roughly desk top height, but over the years I have found that I much prefer a higher bench nearly 4' high and use a stool on casters to work at it or just stand at it.

Width - 4' for the higher work area and 10' for my regular work bench.

Depth -- ~30" for the  higher work area and 4' for my regular work bench; probably no more than you can comfortably reach - that 4' depth has the almost the entire back 1 foot filled with parts bins and drawers - the real work takes place in front of that.

What is your preferred tabletop surface?

Particle board or MDF with ~2'x3' area 1/4" plate glass on top; large bench actually has 2 x 12 underneath.  Also makes use of a trimmed down ceiling tile under one of the sheets of glass for a flat cushioned area.

my new work bench under construction, the counter top will be the work area.....

          as MWB says, a 2'x3' work area work good.....

Personally, I like thick oak or butcher block as a work surface. They're stable under most conditions and provide a nice flat surface that doesn't flex or warp. A few coats of poly adds some additional protection.

Probably as a carry over from my R/C days, I also put a thin nap, well used bath towel on top. It does a good job of catching tiny parts and pieces that would otherwise bounce away and be lost forever.  

Thanks for the replies. I will take your advice and build 2. I'm not sure if I can manage 4 ft width on the lower bench. I'll test it. 

Keep the advice coming,

Bob

CP BOB posted:

Thanks for the replies. I will take your advice and build 2. I'm not sure if I can manage 4 ft width on the lower bench. I'll test it. 

Keep the advice coming,

Bob

The reason for the glass is 2-fold - perfectly flat, but also almost anything that you glue to it by accident can be popped off it with a scalpel or single blade razor.  You can also put the plans or templates for kits, etc. under the glass. 

I use old cubicles. I have alot available if anyone is interested in central PA

MWB:  Thanks for the glass tip- I now have a 2x3 piece of thick tempered glass. 

             When you are building models, are you using the table that is lower and 4ft deep? I only ask, because I have stockpiled over 30 craftsman style kits and (bad back) will be spending a lot of time sitting. 

NS: nice cabinets, too bad I'm on the left coast

Brian & Richie: Thanks for the info

Bob

CP BOB posted:

MWB:  Thanks for the glass tip- I now have a 2x3 piece of thick tempered glass. 

             When you are building models, are you using the table that is lower and 4ft deep? I only ask, because I have stockpiled over 30 craftsman style kits and (bad back) will be spending a lot of time sitting. 

I'm actually using all off my bench spaces, high and low - I have a higher stool on casters that let's be swivel between everything and/or just let's me stand at the higher one - I usually have 3-4 projects going at the same time - glue and paint take time to dry. One glass topped area on the lower bench was occupied with resin casting until two nights ago - that's now got 2 different smaller scratch building trolley projects on it.  The contents of the high bench will get photographed for an article and then relocated temp onto the lower bench crowding in with another project for the weekend.  Got a late 19th cent. cherry chair to finish reupholstering......

NS: nice cabinets, too bad I'm on the left coast

Scrapped kitchen cabs are useful - keep an eye open for neighbors renovating their kitchen - good stuff for on the walls under the bench space.

I started building the benches today. Thanks for all of your support. I'll post pics in a few days when most are complete.

Thanks,

Bob

for the top I use 2 layers of MDF and then a single sheet of hardboard.  wrap the top with 1 by material which keeps the hardboard from moving around since you don't want to attach it.  When becomes beat up just replace the hardboard.  I also used 4x4's for the legs with 1 by material let into the 4x4 legs.  I can use a sledge hammer on my work benches without telltale damage once the hardboard is replaced.  Note: that I do not do this myself but that is how sturdy they are.

I used 2x6's for the top of my bench and covered them with 1/4" hardboard using a few screws. Not too hard to replace, but I like your idea of leaving the hardboard loose and using the 1 by's to hold it in place. Even easier to replace that way. I really do like the idea of hardboard (or something similar) that can be replaced once in a while after it starts getting 'well used' after a while. 

I also like the idea mentioned above of having a standing height bench or part of your other bench. I had a 2'x4' x 48" high bench that I disposed of when we moved 4 years ago and I do kind of miss it. I used to paint and assemble small projects at that bench and sometimes standing is better for some of those things. At least IMO, anyway.

If you don't want to recreate the wheel Sams Club sells a nice work bench.

Some good ideas here. When I built my bench I wanted some decent storage also. I started with some base cabinets with doors and drawers. For the top I went with a solid core door. After mounting the door on the top I screwed to the wall. Not only is it sturdy, it also looks pretty good. 

42" high with stool.  I use a 2'8" X 6'8" solid core birch residential door with all edges and corners rounded over with a urethane finish and capped with a 1/4" layer of professional gym flooring.

Actually have several tables, both a tad larger and a tad smaller each on rollers for total portability.