Would this be a good replacement wall wart for my TMCC Powermaster

Command Base? Yes. the ground screw has to be coupled to the coaxial sleeve connection/wire for TMCC signal propagation.

The wall wart is only 12 volts.  The usual current maximum voltage for the Powermaster is 18 volts.  This may not be a problem if the speed at 12 volts is as fast as you want to run your trains.  4.17 amps is on the low end of the scale (think 35 watts or possibly 50 watts).  Whether this amperage is OK depends on what you're planning to run.  A single modern can-motor locomotive would probably work as long as it's not pulling passenger cars with incandescent light bulbs.

Manitou,

I think you are confused. As ADCX Rob states, the wall wart is for the COMMAND Base, not the PowerMaster. It powers the electronics in the Command Base, and not the track. On the other hand, a PowerMaster is connected between an AC transformer (such as a LW, KW, ZW, etc.) and the track. It controls voltage and bell/whistle to the track. The power for the PowerMaster's electronics is the AC transformer.  Unless you have a big one, you do not use a wall wart in this application.

Chris

LVHR

Thanks for your replies. I am new to O gauge trains, and am trying to get this one set up for my grandson.

I have this set;

And I have this 135w transfornmer/power supply. I am just trying to find out if I need the wall wart to be able to run.

My (limited) understanding was that I could run conventional (old style) locomotives with what I have, but would need to hook up the Command Base to run Legacy trains.

I might be way off base here, please correct me if I am.

Thanks

As PGentieu stated, the transformer you picked will not have enough power except for maybe one engine.  I quickly checked Amazon and they have a few step down transformers from 110 to 15-18 VAC but all produce too little wattage.  The one I found that had good output power was over $100.

Also, the PowerMaster requires a special plug and was made to work with a PowerHouse 135 or 180 to run conventional engines with the handheld.  You can get this plug, but just more hassle.

My recommendation is to look for PH135.  You can find this at a low price now and then.

ADDED: You posted while I was typing. You have everything you need to run TMCC and conventional.  Are there instructions in the box.

This might help.

Thanks CAPPilot that's just what I was looking for!!

It appears that the only thing I am still missing is the 120v house current to the Command Base (AKA wall wart)

That is why I was asking if the one that I pictured in my original post would be able to be used It appears to have a ground terminal. I would just need to know where to hook up the ground. I am assuming that I would couple it or jump it to the negative wire.

Thanks again

Robert

@CAPPilot posted:

ADDED: You posted while I was typing. You have everything you need to run TMCC and conventional.

He doesn't have this, which is required for TMCC:

@Manitou posted:

I am assuming that I would couple it or jump it to the negative wire.

To the sleeve. it's an AC power supply, and you only need 100ma minimum.  I have recommended this in the past:

Rob,

Thanks.  I was still thinking PowerMaster from the OP.  The Command Base power supply is what is missing in Manitou's pictures.

The part number for the adapter is 6102911010 (Part number corrected. Thanks CAPPilot). . Lionel has not had it in stock for awhile.

You can check with S & W Parts Supply  to see if they have any.

Someone was able to get one from them in the past.

This is Dale Manquen's schematic for the wall wart supply to the base...

Here's a good video on the TMCC  / Legacy options and what you need for conventional control with TMCC is covered.

He covers TMCC very well before moving on to Legacy.

calsz06,

Just looked at my old notes, and the number you gave in your post is for the TMCC command base.  The TMCC1 12VAC output wall-pack for this command base is 6102911010.

FYI, the TMCC2 8VAC output wall-pack for the Legacy command base is 6204202001.

Also

You should know that there are two versions of the Command Base. The first one, released before the year 2000, accepts signals around 26 MHz and transmits them to the track at around 450 kHz, and is black. The second Command Base, I think its called Command Base 1L, accepts signals in the 2400 MHz band and transmits to the track at the same 450 kHz, and is blue.

The black one needs a gray CAB-1 remote which has a long antenna (the handheld, not the base). The blue base needs a blue CAB-1L remote and the antenna is built in. They do not mix. For either one, you can buy more remotes.

There may be differences in the voltage levels of the 9-pin serial port connector, should not matter to you.

I happen to have both, never got around to selling the first black one. So I went digging in storage boxes, found the base, and of course could not find the transformer/wall wart. I finally found it powering up a Lionel switch controller on my floor layout. I hooked up the old Command Base and the green LED came on, put batteries in a gray CAB-1, spun the dial, and the red LED flickered, indicating it is receiving commands.  So I took a picture of the label ...

I have searched on the internet, and each transformer that I have found that claims to be a replacement does not have the third grounding plug, so I will not post any of these. Giving up for now.

Third edit: In CAPPilot's diagram, it would help with the wall wart for the Command Base had the third prong.

Even if they have the grounding pin on the 120V side, it's unlikely that it's bonded to the secondary like the TMCC command base transformer.  I have some alarm system AC transformers that have the ground pin, but it goes nowhere but inside.  I surmise, though I can't prove it, it's some sort of faraday shield between the primary and secondary windings.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Even if they have the grounding pin on the 120V side, it's unlikely that it's bonded to the secondary like the TMCC command base transformer...

Tip or sleeve? I haven't had a chance to pull one out yet.

The ground pin on the TMCC wall wart goes to the outside of the barrel.