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Excellent news, Corey! Dcs really brings out the best in MTH subways. Station stop activation and programming are so much easier. I like to go to the menu and move up engine sounds that I like so they display in the handheld screen, allowing me to use one of the soft keys to activate it. On most sets, engine sound #5 is the conductor announcing the line.  I put that one in the #1 slot on my menu for all subways.

PDX, fingers crossed, but if not, there are so many right now on the market that you can really build a collection and upload the sound files that you want, just like Corey did.

I don’t have full DCS and they are hard to find now. I’ll have to hope that the technology continues and I’ll be able to pick up a unit. If so, I can add that 18th st stop and say in my best 1970s conductor voice, “Watch the doors!”

BTW, I picked up the green LOV set with Christmas Lights from Trainworld. Jazzed to add this one.

@pdxtrains posted:

Hey guys, have you bothered to change your PS2 batteries for BRCs? I have the white 1 train and I love it and am considering changing the battery out.

More worrying, I have the E train with the World Trade Center stop. I always worry about that battery and board because I think it’s Proto one.

I didn’t buy the bcr yet, but I did buy an extra battery. I saw the white 1 train for sale recently on eBay but I passed and bought this set. This is the battery I bought.

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I didn’t buy the bcr yet, but I did buy an extra battery. I saw the white 1 train for sale recently on eBay but I passed and bought this set. This is the battery I bought.

Yes, that's the replacement. I have one in reserve, but have been thinking about a BRC so I don't have to change it again.

I have found PS2.0 to be stable. I haven't had any battery or board problems, knock wood, and have had some of these batteries for years. But with MTH leaving us and the future of the subway sets  uncertain, I'd like to do everything I can to make these sets last. That's why I'm thinking of BRC, although I don't know if I need to worry about it.

Brooklyn, I bought the white set years ago because it was the only IRT #1 train I could find, and since I was a 1 train rider that was a must have. I'm thinking of grabbing the Broadway red train R12 while I still can.

No I don’t have the WiFi. Just the TIU and the remote. I may add the WIU in the future.

I got the WIU. I really like the app but I do prefer a remote because you can find the buttons by touch. The app isn't like that. BUT! The major advantage of the app is you can get used cell phones so your buddies could run trains if the layout is big enough. I hope to get there one day.

@BillYo414 posted:

I got the WIU. I really like the app but I do prefer a remote because you can find the buttons by touch. The app isn't like that. BUT! The major advantage of the app is you can get used cell phones so your buddies could run trains if the layout is big enough. I hope to get there one day.

I hope to get there too. You see my lil “layout” 🤣🤣

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@pdxtrains posted:

Hey guys, have you bothered to change your PS2 batteries for BRCs? I have the white 1 train and I love it and am considering changing the battery out.

More worrying, I have the E train with the World Trade Center stop. I always worry about that battery and board because I think it’s Proto one.

I've changed every PS2 subway I own to BCRs and I highly recommend it (both 5 volt and 3 volt models). I also inspected and changed out a couple of speakers that were starting to flake. I believe they were only in the PS2 5 volt board models, but you should all keep an eye on that for all PS2 subways. When the sound is more abnormally crackly or less understandable, it is a dead giveaway for speaker degradation.  They run hot and the speakers tend to flake quicker.  Its one of the reasons that the ps2 boards fail - the flakes get loose and cause a short.  Also, for all ps2 models, buy some reflective tape (the ones that look like mirrors) and install a strip (or 2) on the inside  roofs of the power units (particularly over where the lights are) .  Some of the earlier PS2s had "heat shields" pre-installed, others did not.  I put it on all PS2 models to give the roofs extra protection.  If not, you run the risk of a loose light melting the top of the roof.  The heat of the light can cause an annoying bubbling of the plastic. With the metallic tape and heat shield, you will never have to worry about this. I've never experienced a problem since doing this, but I've seen some horror stories for those that didn't  PS3 models run much cooler, but I did this with mine as well. Better safe than sorry.  And lastly, run your subways at the lowest voltage you can to keep the heat low.  I run them at between 15-16 volts when I'm just letting them run in a loop. I use 17 volts when I'm doing station stops with the dcs (the extra voltage is needed for movement after a station stop).  Tighter curves may need higher voltage to go when using station stops. Figure out what your minimum is and stick to it if you want to keep your boards cooler and alive longer.

Last edited by Strap Hanger

I've changed every PS2 subway I own to BCRs and I highly recommend it (both 5 volt and 3 volt models). I also inspected and changed out a couple of speakers that were starting to flake. I believe they were only in the PS2 5 volt board models, but you should all keep an eye on that for all PS2 subways. When the sound is more abnormally crackly or less understandable, it is a dead giveaway for speaker degradation.  They run hot and the speakers tend to flake quicker.  Its one of the reasons that the ps2 boards fail - the flakes get loose and cause a short.  Also, for all ps2 models, buy some reflective tape (the ones that look like mirrors) and install a strip (or 2) on the inside  roofs of the power units (particularly over where the lights are) .  Some of the earlier PS2s had "heat shields" pre-installed, others did not.  I put it on all PS2 models to give the roofs extra protection.  If not, you run the risk of a loose light melting the top of the roof.  The heat of the light can cause an annoying bubbling of the plastic. With the metallic tape and heat shield, you will never have to worry about this. I've never experienced a problem since doing this, but I've seen some horror stories for those that didn't  PS3 models run much cooler, but I did this with mine as well. Better safe than sorry.  And lastly, run your subways at the lowest voltage you can to keep the heat low.  I run them at between 15-16 volts when I'm just letting them run in a loop. I use 17 volts when I'm doing station stops with the dcs (the extra voltage is needed for movement after a station stop).  Tighter curves may need higher voltage to go when using station stops. Figure out what your minimum is and stick to it if you want to keep your boards cooler and alive longer.

Thanks for the information. I’ll be getting the tape this week.

Thanks for the information. I’ll be getting the tape this week.

It will be well worth it, Corey. If your model has a "heat shield" already installed, the extra protection of another tape strip over the lights enures no problems. Of course, you can forget all this and install nice, cool LEDs like Trainlover did.  However, That's too much work and effort for me with my fleet.   Definitely do the BCR. You won't regret it.

However, you may want to open your PS2 model up and check the roof before buying the tape. Maybe the initial owner did this already. It was a popular modification when these were initially released, since so many people had posted horror stories about their roofs melting.

It will be well worth it, Corey. If your model has a "heat shield" already installed, the extra protection of another tape strip over the lights enures no problems. Of course, you can forget all this and install nice, cool LEDs like Trainlover did.  However, That's too much work and effort for me with my fleet.   Definitely do the BCR. You won't regret it.

However, you may want to open your PS2 model up and check the roof before buying the tape. Maybe the initial owner did this already. It was a popular modification when these were initially released, since so many people had posted horror stories about their roofs melting.

I bought my set brand new, so unless the guy knew about this, I doubt he did it. I’ll check when I get home today. I think I only  have one PS 2 set for now.

Last edited by Brooklyn Corey
@BillYo414 posted:

I got the WIU. I really like the app but I do prefer a remote because you can find the buttons by touch. The app isn't like that. BUT! The major advantage of the app is you can get used cell phones so your buddies could run trains if the layout is big enough. I hope to get there one day.

I'm looking forward to getting the  WIU. I use an ipad with a nice big screen and it's fun to use for the DCS Explorer and Lionchief apps. Plus, I won't be using heavy DCS. I probably will have it on one track of my 4x8 two loop tiny layout. I just want the full access for subways, mainly.

I've changed every PS2 subway I own to BCRs and I highly recommend it (both 5 volt and 3 volt models). I also inspected and changed out a couple of speakers that were starting to flake. I believe they were only in the PS2 5 volt board models, but you should all keep an eye on that for all PS2 subways. When the sound is more abnormally crackly or less understandable, it is a dead giveaway for speaker degradation.  They run hot and the speakers tend to flake quicker.  Its one of the reasons that the ps2 boards fail - the flakes get loose and cause a short.  Also, for all ps2 models, buy some reflective tape (the ones that look like mirrors) and install a strip (or 2) on the inside  roofs of the power units (particularly over where the lights are) .  Some of the earlier PS2s had "heat shields" pre-installed, others did not.  I put it on all PS2 models to give the roofs extra protection.  If not, you run the risk of a loose light melting the top of the roof.  The heat of the light can cause an annoying bubbling of the plastic. With the metallic tape and heat shield, you will never have to worry about this. I've never experienced a problem since doing this, but I've seen some horror stories for those that didn't  PS3 models run much cooler, but I did this with mine as well. Better safe than sorry.  And lastly, run your subways at the lowest voltage you can to keep the heat low.  I run them at between 15-16 volts when I'm just letting them run in a loop. I use 17 volts when I'm doing station stops with the dcs (the extra voltage is needed for movement after a station stop).  Tighter curves may need higher voltage to go when using station stops. Figure out what your minimum is and stick to it if you want to keep your boards cooler and alive longer.

I'm going to do as you suggest, Straphanger.

Re speakers: do you use official MTH speakers, or are their stock model train speakers that can be used? I'll keep an eye on them--thanks for the tip!

@pdxtrains posted:

I'm going to do as you suggest, Straphanger.

Re speakers: do you use official MTH speakers, or are their stock model train speakers that can be used? I'll keep an eye on them--thanks for the tip!

For most, I used off the shelf speakers from here -https://www.parts-express.com/2-Round-Frame-Mini-Speaker-16-Ohm-289-131

They must be 2 inches in diameter and 16ohms. However, not all subways use the same speakers. The difference is in the slimness (height when mounted) of the magnet. On my railkings, i purchased cheap, slim speakers and they worked fine, fitting perfectly. However, I couldn’t fit the same ones into a premier ps2 train. There wasn’t enough room between the back of the speaker and the mounted ps2 board. My local train store (ready to roll)  sold me an even slimmer one for around two bucks that fit perfect. I don’t know where they got it from. You can’t go wrong ordering from MTH, though, as long as they are still selling them. If you find a train with a flaking speaker, remove it immediately. Then you can measure the speaker magnet and see how slim a speaker you need for your model.

Ok, I've ordered both kinds of batteries, and bought enough to change out the E Train, the IRT White #1, and the Red Third Ave El that I have that is also P2. Everything else I have is P3. I opened the trains up and removed the old batteries and checked the speakers--no flaking.

Thanks for all the tips. I wish there were more action on the Subway forum--it's great to talk about these!

Anytime PDX and good luck with the BCRs (I assume you mean you bought 3 volt and 5 volt  BCRs, not batteries). You won’t regret the purchase over the long term.

Yeah, the subway section seems to have died down a bit, but this is still the best place to learn and talk about ogauge trains. You’ll still find many subway fans posting regularly and responding to questions, just not in that section.

Anytime PDX and good luck with the BCRs (I assume you mean you bought 3 volt and 5 volt  BCRs, not batteries). You won’t regret the purchase over the long term.

Yeah, the subway section seems to have died down a bit, but this is still the best place to learn and talk about ogauge trains. You’ll still find many subway fans posting regularly and responding to questions, just not in that section.

Yes, I meant BCRs. I'm looking forward to installing them and shoring up those earlier sets. Thanks for the encouragement!

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