Train shelving - is this a good idea?

I would consider routing the wood shelves to simulate track and then sealing them wood urethane or varnish. Your trains will be much less likely to tip or fall than they would be if you mount gargraves track on top of the wooden shelves. I think your concept is super.

I also think it would be easier to get to the trains and place them on the layout. If I leave one shelf empty, I can take trains off the layout before putting other trains on. It can be my staging area. It will also be easier than getting trains off the higher shelves on a wall.

George

If I had room to put train shelfs on the side of my layout bench work, I would just make one,  a ramp for underneath the layout storage tracks.   I'm still thinking on this project of mine.

If you have digital controlled locomotives, consider powering some shelf tracks to charge their batteries.

Why not just connect them to the layout as a staging yard so you can drive them on to the layout when you want to run them ?

I think your idea is sound.  You could use 1x6(5 1/2) instead if 1x4(3 1/2) for a bit more money and have a little more buffer for an accidental bump.

clem k posted:

If I had room to put train shelfs on the side of my layout bench work, I would just make one,  a ramp for underneath the layout storage tracks.   I'm still thinking on this project of mine.

Richie C. posted:

Why not just connect them to the layout as a staging yard so you can drive them on to the layout when you want to run them ?

But won't it take LOTS more space to make up an elaborate grade(s) to store as many as simple one over the other shelving would provide?  By the time you allow for the grades, switches (assuming you want more than one storage spur/shelf), it takes a lot of space just to get to the different levels vs simple shelves.  And switches combined on grades is often not considered a good idea.  You start to use up huge amounts of space, and unless the layout is NJHR sized, it will be noticeable for most home layouts.

I like the side shelf idea.  Pretty sure this has been shown on many layouts in OGR or CTT over the years.  Adding grooves as John suggested to help keep them in place might be a good idea. 

Or maybe even some sort of slide on plexiglass cover to both keep them from falling out due to casual contact and maybe even limit the dust a little.  I'm thinking something like screws driven into the wood, less the thickness of the plexiglass, then holes the size of the heads of the screws in the plexi, with a slot that is narrower than the head, but the right width for the threaded part of the screw.  The plexi can then be lowered onto position, resting on the screws and lifted up for removal.  I've not actually done this yet, but have been thinking about something along these lines for a while.

-Dave

Bobby Ogage posted:

If you have digital controlled locomotives, consider powering some shelf tracks to charge their batteries.

Excellent idea!

George

Dave45681 posted:

clem k posted:

If I had room to put train shelfs on the side of my layout bench work, I would just make one,  a ramp for underneath the layout storage tracks.   I'm still thinking on this project of mine.

Richie C. posted:

Why not just connect them to the layout as a staging yard so you can drive them on to the layout when you want to run them ?

But won't it take LOTS more space to make up an elaborate grade(s) to store as many as simple one over the other shelving would provide?  By the time you allow for the grades, switches (assuming you want more than one storage spur/shelf), it takes a lot of space just to get to the different levels vs simple shelves.  And switches combined on grades is often not considered a good idea.  You start to use up huge amounts of space, and unless the layout is NJHR sized, it will be noticeable for most home layouts.

I like the side shelf idea.  Pretty sure this has been shown on many layouts in OGR or CTT over the years.  Adding grooves as John suggested to help keep them in place might be a good idea. 

Or maybe even some sort of slide on plexiglass cover to both keep them from falling out due to casual contact and maybe even limit the dust a little.  I'm thinking something like screws driven into the wood, less the thickness of the plexiglass, then holes the size of the heads of the screws in the plexi, with a slot that is narrower than the head, but the right width for the threaded part of the screw.  The plexi can then be lowered onto position, resting on the screws and lifted up for removal.  I've not actually done this yet, but have been thinking about something along these lines for a while.

-Dave

 

On my last layout I had a loop under the layout with a transition to the upper level. If you have a lot of clear space under the layout and can easily get under there, that could work. It won't work for me now. My layout is lower than countertop height, and I did not build it with lots of free span space underneath. It's a pain to get under it, and trains will have problems in the most inconvenient places. 

George

 I wouldn't recommend doing this - the single biggest advantage to keeping everything you are not using in boxes is that the clutter from all of those boxes gives your visitors the impression that your train collection is MUCH larger than it actually is - just imaging the hit your image of a train collector/hoarder will take when word gets around the neighborhood that George's collection is a lot smaller than previously believed!

I used Glenn Snyder shelving along one wall.  They are all coupled together so if you want a special one you can just roll them along . Never had one fall. Even with young grandsons. Tstark

tstark posted:

I used Glenn Snyder shelving along one wall.  They are all coupled together so if you want a special one you can just roll them along . Never had one fall. Even with young grandsons. Tstark

I think I would need to build a wall to accommodate those. I could do that, but then I would lose my hope of expanding into the other part of the basement. 

George

Robert S. Butler posted:

 I wouldn't recommend doing this - the single biggest advantage to keeping everything you are not using in boxes is that the clutter from all of those boxes gives your visitors the impression that your train collection is MUCH larger than it actually is - just imaging the hit your image of a train collector/hoarder will take when word gets around the neighborhood that George's collection is a lot smaller than previously believed!

Oh, but I can still stack the boxes and say they are filled with trains that didn't fit on the shelves. 

George

I used routed 1x6’s mounted on 3/8 plywood and floor supported these behind the layout for my standard gauge collection.  The gap from the back of the wall is 21”. I did screw the plywood into the wall for stability.

Jim

I too, am finishing up a layout and looking at storage/display options. I'm curious as to everyone's take on the possibility of metal or spring fatigue from long-term display of trains with roller pick-ups. I run 3-rail but was considering displaying my trains on 2-rail track, letting the pick-up roller mechanisms suspend between the rails rather than keepingp them continually compressed. Any thoughts?

I favor shelves under the front of the layout, taking the place of skirting that otherwise might be used to block the view of the underside of the layout.  1x4 boards are adequate for 0 gauge and 1x6 for standard gauge.  Both can have shallow grooves easily added by running them thru a tablesaw.  Just remember the flanges are closer together than the track gauge! The shelves can be attached to a sheet of plywood with screws from the back into the edges of the boards, and the plywood can be secured directly to the table legs if they are set back the correct distance.  Leave some "toe space" by setting the shelves back about six inches from the table edge. Add a wide finished fascia board on the edges of the layout and install strip lighting behind it to illuminate the trains on the storage shelves.  

Kirk Lindvig

www.sgma.us

I used 1X4's with grooves cut on my table saw for the flanges.  A little stain and done cheaply.  I also know several people have done like you are considering by adding shelves below the layout edges.  I think Steamer Dave has  several such shelves.  They allow you to display more trains but you would need to allow for access to any designed storage behind them.  They have been hung up in four different houses now and modified from being nine shelves tall to being five shelves tall based on my current situation.  the way they are now situated allows me to display approximately 24 sets, but that depends on the sets individual lengths!

I build the room for the shelves, the layouts were an afterthought!

NWL

NWL,

Boooinnng! *

*The sound of my eyes popping out.

Fantastic displasy and neato layout.

Have fun

My basement incorporates several of the ideas shown and described here. 4 inch wide pine made into shelf units with O27 track for the trains to rest on.  Similar units are used for skirting shelving under the layout. Paneling that matches the room's walls was used for backing so the trains don't fall back.

If you do wall shelves behind a walk-around layout be sure to leave about 20 inches of space so that you can get around the layout and to the shelves without brushing against the trains on top.

Very helpful comments throughout. The grooving of the boards and the plywood backing are things I hadn't considered.

Thanks.

George

SGMA1 posted:

I favor shelves under the front of the layout, taking the place of skirting that otherwise might be used to block the view of the underside of the layout.  1x4 boards are adequate for 0 gauge and 1x6 for standard gauge.  Both can have shallow grooves easily added by running them thru a tablesaw.  Just remember the flanges are closer together than the track gauge! The shelves can be attached to a sheet of plywood with screws from the back into the edges of the boards, and the plywood can be secured directly to the table legs if they are set back the correct distance.  Leave some "toe space" by setting the shelves back about six inches from the table edge. Add a wide finished fascia board on the edges of the layout and install strip lighting behind it to illuminate the trains on the storage shelves.  

Kirk Lindvig

www.sgma.us

 

Along this line, I've built shelf units consisting of a 1x4 frame and shelves, with a sheet of 3/8" plywood for a back.  Size depends on where it's going to fit.  By making a sturdy unit like this, it can be attached to the legs of the benchwork (just screw through the plywood wherever the support is).  And they're easily reusable if you reconfigure your layout.

A member of our club puts L-hooks at the top of his shelving and hangs sheets of thin plexiglas to protect against the stray elbow.

Suggest making the shelves double depth if you have the room, as they fill up fast. 

My basement is poured concrete.  Although it's dry most of the time, I get just enough moisture that I don't feel comfortable with finishing it and studding out the walls.  But I also didn't want to drill anchor holes into the concrete.  I rigged up a method of using 2x2 uprights to which the shelves are attached.  The 2x2s are attached to the wood plate at the top of the wall using small L-brackets.  At the bottom, I cut small pieces of the rubber spacing that is made for joints in concrete, and snugged them in place with wood shims. 

Plenty strong, and if there is moisture, the rubber feet keep it from seeping into the wood.  

I built stand alone shelves from MDF that just fit under the layout. This only works in the straight areas. I use the curved areas for storage.

My Dad built this shelf more me and we installed it in the wall when we finished the basement.  But it could just as easily work underneath the layout.  

If you use plexiglass, you will prevent the trains from falling or being bumped by people near the layout.  Next time you run trains, take note of where you stand and where your knees/feet are in relation to the layout.

Each shelf has two pieces of plexi that can slide back and forth with a finger hole.  This was based off of Rich Battista's version from his layout video. 

Have Fun!

Ron

Ron045 posted:

My Dad built this shelf more me and we installed it in the wall when we finished the basement.  But it could just as easily work underneath the layout.  

If you use plexiglass, you will prevent the trains from falling or being bumped by people near the layout.  Next time you run trains, take note of where you stand and where your knees/feet are in relation to the layout.

Each shelf has two pieces of plexi that can slide back and forth with a finger hole.  This was based off of Rich Battista's version from his layout video. 

Have Fun!

Ron

Awesome! I have that video and know Rich is a forum member.

George

If you are placing your storage/display shelves below the layout, I  highly recommend plexiglass doors. 2 reasons: The area just above the floor is the dirtiest in the room, which will then get all over your nice clean trains, and 2 plexi will keep errant shoes and toddlers from whacking your trains. Meanwhile, you can still see them. I'd skip the GG track and go with grooves cut with a table saw to accommodate the flanges.

My 2 cents.

Chris

LVHR

Here are pictures (I hope) of my display/storage cabinets. I used a router to make flange grooves and used bead board for the back of each case. The cost and weight of Plexiglas was, to me, too much, so I went with something simpler and cheaper. The clear plastic sheeting  is from Amazon and comes in 4' x 4' sections. That dictated the maximum size of each cabinet. I made the cases from white MDF with a white  bead board back. I made simple frames for the plastic  from wooden trim I bought at HD (my spending place) and attached the plastic to the frames with staples reinforced with duct tape. The frames are held onto the case with Velcro. I've had these in place for about 3+ years and they work great.  In between cabinets and to allow access, my wife sewed up some simple curtains hung on café rods to hide the underside of the table.

Two things to keep in mind. Do not use MDF for the shelves. It will sag under its own weight regardless if there's anything on it or not. You can kind of see it on the photos. MDF is okay for the cabinet sides and top, though. I thought I'd save myself some time by using white MDF throughout - which I did - but I would have been better off using wooden shelving. Also, the 4 x 4 size of the cabinets dictates how much can be displayed. For example, I can only show about one half of what I own, but that's okay. Just like pictures on a wall, it's nice to be able to change things out every so often.

I hope this helps a bit.

My 2 cents.  Instead of 2 grooves for the wheels, If you only cut 1 groove for the wheels on the back side, the train will angle back, lean away from the front side, display nicer, and allow different gauges to be displayed.

As far as the comment on leaving an open shelf to take a train off the layout and swap out another. Ever hear anyone say "I have to many shelves; My layout/train room/ garage is to big.  If you have empty spots....you need more.   

Dan

Jim Brenner posted:

Two things to keep in mind. Do not use MDF for the shelves. It will sag under its own weight regardless if there's anything on it or not. You can kind of see it on the photos. I hope this helps a bit.

Jim, 

Can you place some screws from the back into the shelves to prevent sagging?  We did that.  My sisters and I liked to say that Dad built things hurricane proof.  The house will be gone, but by golly that train shelf isn't going anywhere.

Ron

made from skids from where I used to work. just had to buy the screws and stain.

Ron,

I did not try screws, but I did try finishing nails. They worked okay on the shelves with freight/passenger cars, but not so well for locomotives. In a few places, I used blocks of wood (scrap MDF, really) in between  the shelves to support them and that worked out okay. I just had to be careful where I placed cars, etc. on the lower shelves.

Does that make sense?

Jim

I see that the picture showing the curtains did not show up. This will give a better idea of what I mean.

Jim

All the posts and information were great! I realized that I was over simplifying things and it was going to be more work than I thought. This is what I have done in the meantime. I can add the custom shelving project later. I have a lot on my plate right now.

George

I have always used shelving.  These are a salvage find from a drugstore in Dayton, Ohio from when we lived there 70's-80's. Picked up for free for the haul off as they were re-decorating (My wife an RN with a local doctor at the time cut the deal!) .  Because they were only for drugs / vitamins etc they are thin compared to those made for ordinary books.  My spacing to the layout is 24" from the outer edge of the shelves to the inner edge of the layout (its too close, if I had it to do over again I would add 6").  I keep both O and Std gauge on the shelves, the O gauge can be two lines wide (I support / raise the rear line on clear plastic cups under the trucks). The Standard Gauge (I don't have too much) is nearly the full width of the shelving.   We have lived with these shelves in 3 or 4 different houses at this point and I cannot remember anything ever falling off.  I recently got some Glen Snyder display shelves like TSTARK mentioned and I am putting them on the wall opposite the one with the book cases.

My biggest disappointment with shelving like this vice long shelves as shown by NWL is that they cannot display the sets or outfits lined up together, the width of each unit is not long enough, so I end up displaying a consist in 2 parts, usually one in front of the other.  Not in the grand scheme of things a disaster, but its a limitation to most shelving units.

By the way, NWL your display and layout are really eye watering, perhaps you would consider posting some more pictures.  I note that it is mostly pre-way (those trains that I can recognize) which is also my interest.  Thanks

Don

Here are a couple examples of shelving I recently made for small, specific, areas.

George S posted:

All the posts and information were great! I realized that I was over simplifying things and it was going to be more work than I thought. This is what I have done in the meantime. I can add the custom shelving project later. I have a lot on my plate right now.

George

If you find you run out of shelf space George...I can make room for those ones on the second shelf up........

The use of Glen Snyder shelving has worked well for me, along with I have made some with cutting the spaced groves in 1 x 4 boards.  Still have too much to do on the layout for underside perimeter shelves.  But, they are planned and they also add more stability to the layout legs on any layout.

Jesse   TCA

We had a whole wall that we installed book shelves on. The wall was the support for the book shelves. The wall started to move. Make sure your wall can support the weight you are hanging on it.