Finally got the mid size 1677 Ives transition gondola. For me, this one was harder to get than the 1678 stock car.
Steve
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nice find Steve, another I'd like to get, to go along with Dad's Lionel
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George S,
None of your fine work is Toy Train abuse! can't wait to see the new custom work!
You Tin abuser you!
PCRR/Dave
Maybe Joe is right; I am a tinplate abuser. 
Everything was going great until assembly. I thought it would be best to assemble the shell before masking and painting the ends of the yellow sides. Wrong. Also, my yellow paint was not hard enough, and I damaged a spot on the side trying to put the doors on. When I masked the yellow, the tape ruined my finish, then the clay colored paint wrinkled the yellow. I mounted the shell too soon on the frame and could not get the door hangers tight. Now my doors are loose! I would strip it and start over, but I'm afraid I will break tabs. I am half tempted to sell this one as is and start over. These refrigerator cars are a bit of a pain.
At least the roof looks good!
George
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I feel your pain George! It is so frustrating to start a repaint/refurb and have it go south. I am my own worst enemy though, sometimes I get so anxious to see a project come together that I push it a little too hard and make mistakes. Oh well, try, try again...
Mike 
George S posted:I can get the Sunburst Yellow in a 1 quart can.
That would not be thinned as much, and I could probably get a harder finish. Easier for touch-ups too. The thinner in the rattle can is what causes the paint to wrinkle underneath. Hmm...
George
Do any of you repainters know if any one has tried powder coating? And if so what were the results?
Thanks
Steve
RideTheRails posted:George S posted:I can get the Sunburst Yellow in a 1 quart can.
That would not be thinned as much, and I could probably get a harder finish. Easier for touch-ups too. The thinner in the rattle can is what causes the paint to wrinkle underneath. Hmm...
George
Do any of you repainters know if any one has tried powder coating? And if so what were the results?
Thanks
Steve
I don't Steve, but I see some disadvantages on trains. First, a powder coating finish needs to be 300 microns or greater. This can be a problem on the tabs and the fit and assembly of the parts and trim. Second, it requires 390 degree F heat to cure. It's not really a "do it yourself" job, which will add a lot of cost to a small project. Lastly, I perceive it's hard to mask off an area of a part for a different color.
George
George S posted:Parts are painted and drying.
I made a drying hanger for one of the doors that needed repainting. I wish I had thought of that for all the doors.
Assembly might be a while. I want the paint to be very hard, and I don't have the decals yet anyway.
Colors are rattlecan Krylon cover MAXX Georgia Clay Gloss and Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow. I used Krylon Gray Primer. This tin would not paint without a primer.
George
It's possible those two mfrs paints are not compatible or possibly the Yellow needs to cure first. Maybe a trip through the oven would help? Looks good so far. I am looking forward to the decals!
Dennis Holler posted:George S posted:Parts are painted and drying.
I made a drying hanger for one of the doors that needed repainting. I wish I had thought of that for all the doors.
Assembly might be a while. I want the paint to be very hard, and I don't have the decals yet anyway.
Colors are rattlecan Krylon cover MAXX Georgia Clay Gloss and Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow. I used Krylon Gray Primer. This tin would not paint without a primer.
George
It's possible those two mfrs paints are not compatible or possibly the Yellow needs to cure first. Maybe a trip through the oven would help? Looks good so far. I am looking forward to the decals!
Yep, that little door is in the oven. The paints need much longer to cure before masking and painting a second color. I have had this problem before. With the yellow, it really needs a week before assembly, unless you can do it gently, which is a big risk. Also, I think the thinner in the rattle cans is a very aggressive solvent. The Naptha I use with my airbrush works much better. I am going to fix this one as best as possible and make a second, learning from my mistakes.
George
George S posted:Here is what the decals will look like. They will be available for sale once I proof the final version.
I will provide the seller's details and contact information at that time for anyone who wants them.
George
These decals are available now. Thanks to Stan Cedarleaf! You can contact him directly at scedarleaf@aol.com. I may have mine this weekend to show initial results. As I mentioned above, I intend to make two cars. The first will have some paint imperfections.
George
This may be very basic, but it sounds to me like you are trying to paint lacquer over enamal, This
usually never works.
beardog posted:This may be very basic, but it sounds to me like you are trying to paint lacquer over enamal, This
usually never works.
Nope. Both are enamel. Even painting the same paint over itself caused a problem. With Rustoleum x2, I have not had this problem, I think because it includes a primer. The Krylon MAXX is supposed to have a primer in it, but it did not work. The cans talk about 48 hours or less than 2 minutes between coats, but I have not had to wait that long before when using an oven. I have proof that the rattle can thinner is the main culprit, because I bought the same enamel in the non-spray form, and I can brush that on without a problem, even if I thin it some with Naptha.
Also, a bit surprising that the blue painters tape damaged the finish too. I am sure this was due to the paint not being fully cured, but I am also reading that these tape adhesives try to "bond" with the paint to maintain an edge. On my next job, I plan to mask the primer and not try to paint over finished enamel. I also plan to not try to mask and paint assembled parts. Just learning as I go here...
George
The Krylon I've been using has the primer in it, and so far no problems.
The first side of the Goetz car is done.
I have been fiddling with the car trying to fix or reduce the noticeability of my mistakes. I was able to tighten the door hangers and handles with epoxy from behind. I bought yellow paint in a can to brush on. It is looking better. No more mistakes, I am waiting 24 hours to do the other side. 
I have enough decals for three cars and plan to make one more once I find a suitable donor car.
George
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George S posted:The first side of the Goetz car is done.
I have been fiddling with the car trying to fix or reduce the noticeability of my mistakes. I was able to tighten the door hangers and handles with epoxy from behind. I bought yellow paint in a can to brush on. It is looking better. No more mistakes, I am waiting 24 hours to do the other side.
I have enough decals for three cars and plan to make one more once I find a suitable donor car.
George
First class George!!
Joe Gozzo
Looking good George! I think you've got the hang of it!
Mike
great job George!
Nice looking work George! Ya got me thinking, so got started on putting together a custom paint 800 series freight set from junkers. It's bright but looks pretty good on the rails- if you like green. Apple green with 601 Pullman green roof and black cupola. The yellow window paint is original. Only two tabs broke on the main body, so solder was an easy fix. Next up will be either a 804 or 831. Decisions, decisions, what color next? 
John
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