HELP!! .. I have been working on a 2350 engine replacing an e unit.I replaced the e unit with a new one. I doubled checked the connections with another 2350 that I have and everything matches. The e unit functions but the motor does not. Both lights are on but the motor does activate. Any help will greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance…
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Thanks Lenny , I previously checked both of those items and still no movement. Thanks and still looking for help!!
I would be looking at the e unit. Power should go in the eunit on the black wire, then out to the armature on the yellow wire, back in on the blue wire, then out to the field on the green wire. Check to verify that these connections are being made. E unit fingers are very fragile and can get bent so they are not touching the drum. You should be able to light a lamp between the green wire and the frame every other cycle of the eunit.
Attnave, I have checked and tested the e unit. I have even changed the e unit with another brand new e unit and still no movement. Thanks for the input but I am puzzled and stalled.…..
I would separate the E unit and try to run the motor by itself . Use Rob's drawing put power on blue wire tie green and yellow wire together and ground the frame motor should run. If not check for mechanical binding.
Okay Rob, I followed your instructions and separated the e unit and tested the motor and it does work. I know the e units are working so any thought where the problem might be. Many thanks for all your help so far…Joe
The problem has got to be with the E unit. Maybe the blue and green wires on the fingers are reversed? Fallow Rob's diagram and not the colors of the wires. The only other thing is the motor ground spring present on the bottom of the motor? One final thought, are you sure you have the black power wire connected to the hot lug on the reverse unit and not the ground side?
You have got to check the path of current with an AC meter. Follow Rob's first drawing. Set transformer to AC make sure you have at least 12 volts AC. Put one meter probe on the ground chassis and leave it there for these tests. Take other probe and out on blue wire you should have 12 volts or so. Now put probe on yellow wire you should have 12 volts or so. Turn wheels by hand with probe on yellow wire still. You should get 12 volts thru each segment of armature. Now put probe on green wire you should have the 12 volts. If you are missing any of these readings you have to look and see why. I agree with Chuck probably the E unit. The path of current for these motors is. Power comes from track rollers to E unit right end cap into blue wire. Thru blue wire to armature thru armature to yellow wire. Back to E unit thru E unit drum left side to green wire. Thru motor field winding to ground. Hope this helps.
Thanks Jim…… I will run test as you described … as I stated before ,I don’t think it’s the e units as I have replaced the e unit with 2 new ones that I tested before I put in the engine and still got the same result……nothing… I will follow up and thanks again for everyone’s help……Joe
Pictures are worth a thousand words. Can you show us:
1. Where black e-unit wire is connected
2. E-unit from the angle showing the 4 wires. Sometimes the colors vs positions vary...
3. 3 e-unit wires connected to the motor.
I have had a bad new e-unit where I had to take it apart and fix finger tension. It is rare though. 2 in a row not likely.
Okay guys problem solved……. Broken wire in coil of e unit… many thanks to Rob, Jim and everyone that gave me advice. It’s really reassuring to know that there is always someone out there that knows there stuff. Thanks again to all…Joe