I am installing a True Blast board and speaker into my K-Line GG1. can you recommend a glue which I can use to fasten the plastic speaker enclosure to the diecast body shell. I would rather use a glue instead of the supplied 2 sided tape so that it won't come unglued over time. Thanks
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If you want it to really stay stuck, JB Weld should do the trick. If you think you might need to someday remove it, some brand of contact cement (like Walther's "Goo") will hold it, yet allow you to take it off if necessary.
Mark in Oregon
For that I would us Sticky glue! (Craft store) it will hold it in place with the speaker vibration and if need be , it can easily be removed
I would use the tape. If the speaker goes and you really got the enclosure glued well, you'll have to break the enclosure to change the speaker. Tapes are really strong and long lasting.
Hot glue might work as well. I've seen it used by a few manufacturers for similar applications.
GOOP!
Silicone Sealer Adhesive works good, virtually lasts forever, can be removed later easily if necessary, and makes a good vibration stopper as it provides a gasket between the speaker frame and die-cast if both items aren't perfectly flat and make solid contact all the way around.
Walthers "Goo" (not "Goop" - different glue).
Goo, I do believe, is permanent over geologic time. It's even ugly, as a truly good glue should be.
@D500 posted:Walthers "Goo" (not "Goop" - different glue).
Goo, I do believe, is permanent over geologic time. It's even ugly, as a truly good glue should be.
😁😁😁 Back when I was major "HO-ing", I found that Goo is "permanent"... until you needed to separate the pieces. It can be cut loose, and since it doesn't really penetrate, it (usually) won't scar the pieces. I once picked up some beautiful old Walthers passenger cars; some needed a few minor repairs, calling for the removal of some sides. A little careful knife work and patience and they were loosened and cut free. Interesting stuff...and still available, I think.
Mark in Oregon
I've used GOOP and hot glue successfully. Although I have Walther's GOO, it's a bit messy to work with, and my experience removing it is it's a royal PITA!
Thank you everyone for your replies. Goo/Goop, hot glue, sticky, JB Weld and the tape itself are all represented. since I have the hot glue gun, I will try it first and test the adhesion. otherwise, I will order a tube of Goop (the majority recommendation). Thank you again, a great group!
Be careful of hot glue, some plastics, particularly styrene, have a low melting/warping point.
I've used hot glue extensively, and I've never warped anything. I know it can happen, but it has to be a pretty thin member to have an issue.
@Gary P posted:Silicone Sealer Adhesive works good, virtually lasts forever, can be removed later easily if necessary, and makes a good vibration stopper as it provides a gasket between the speaker frame and die-cast if both items aren't perfectly flat and make solid contact all the way around.
All that, and it gives off acetic acid during the curing process. j
clear silicon caulking should work, and it doesn't have the smell silicon Sealer has (I remember form a gasket and the other RTV sealers only too well).
I'm a pretty big fan of Walther's Goo as well. Have had very good luck with it on lots of applications. For delicate work, applying it with a toothpick, for example, works great. For almost all hobby applications (and others, too), it's plenty strong, but if you have to, it's possible to separate.
I suggest E6000
E6000 glue is clear and flexible and very strong. When dry it is hard to cut with a sharp knife. It is a better glue than the old Goodyear Pliobond rubber type glue of old and out lasts it for gluing on shoe soles. Also it is available at Walmart (lowest cost), HD, Lowes, Hobby Lobby and all local hardware stores. It is my got to glue for the characteristics above.
Charlie