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Actual bumpers would look great but eat up real estate. The simplest would be to get come bag clips at the supermarket or home goods store. They come in many different shapes and sizes. Or small binder clips from the stationary store. Or simplest, some heavy wire the diameter of the rail, cut into short lengths, bent to 90 deg and jammed in center rail so it sticks up and catches truck. Really the possibilities are endless.

@Railrunnin posted:

Nick, depending on how many shelves you have, one option is to use #260 Bumpers at each end of the shelf. They look great and serve the purpose.

My next trick is to figure out how to light them up on the display shelves I now have going up.

 

Paul

Paul...

I should think a 3v DC wall-wart power supply would be all you need....if you replace the filament bulbs standard in a #260 with an LED.  Since we're not talking a lot of amp-carrying capacity for a set of shelf bumpers, only, I should think 22-26awg wire would be sufficient....and relatively unobtrusive.  Maybe even a couple of decorative buss wires (e.g., small brass rods or copper foil tape) vertically at either end of the shelves to carry the power to the  LED's. 

The new man-cave mood lighting!....

Just a suggestion, of course. 

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd

I think there is a bumper with stub rails or pins. I don't know who's

Shape wood into a concrete stop (search) and use 3 nails thru wood as pins. The ones that fit tight, chuck in a drill and sand for a minute, watch heat, It'll go. The length will increase the upright strength & stability from tube flex off the tie.

Stipple black under a med grey drybrush like your brushing off fresh concrete. "cept you brush it on.  Highlight w/light grey drybrush.

Or stain / finish the wood, paint to match trim, furniture, etc. 

If you hang your display shelves level, the rolling stock you placed on them will not roll.

On the other hand, I  built several display cases that hang on a wall using only wood for my train club.  Mostly built from 1x stock with 2 grooves spaced 1&1/4 inches apart for the wheel gauge spacing.  They were painted to prevent rust from forming on the wheels. I will send a picture of these the next time I will go to the club. 

Rod,

I painted the ones in the previous pics, but I tried some yellow resin with the ones here. Not quite as vibrant yellow as I would like (want it to look more like the handrail color or "safety" yellow), so I'm going to try to add some dye to the resin to get a better yellow. I looked at some tubular O track I have and the profile is quite a bit bigger than the GS shelf, so the base would have to get a little larger, but I'll model it up to get an idea.

I usually keep my printer pretty busy making stuff for myself and friends, but I'm thinking these might be good to put on the market. It would be nice to at least cover the cost of materials and make a little contribution toward my train habit. Maybe $1.50 a pair?

Gary

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As third rail mentioned train shelves can be built from lumber and not have an issue with trains running of the rail ends.  Here is a picture of one of mine.

IMG_0389

They are built from 1X 4 no. 2 wood for most shelves and the side frames.  The shelves are grooved for wheels with a router and track can be used for wiring of lighted and operating cars.  Track is also used under engines with Magnatraction in the hope it acts as a magnet keeper.  They are backed with 1/8 inch Masonite, stand on the floor and are held to the wall with two 1 x1 inch angles to wall studs per section.   They are built in two sections so they can be moved thru doors and some have been four or so houses.  When moved only 4 small holes are left in the wall.  They were painted of white to hide knots and to make the trains show out better.

007

I am in process of building my fourth and last section as I ran out of wall space.

  Charlie

Thanks Art for the info on the lgb offerring. Those look good for sure, but I prefer the look of Gary's stops somehow.

Gary, another option ( that avoids the delay and hassle of shipping) would be for me to just buy a 3D printer and pay you a fee for your design file for O tubular track. I see Amazon has printers for about $300, though I have no idea what features I should be looking for? 

Rod

TW Trainworx has some but they aren't in my price range!   NWFan1's price range seems lots better.

https://www.twtrainworxstore.c...duct/wheel-stop-kit/

Hey Canadian Rod, you could cross the boarder and smuggle them in.  Put them on a key chain or something!  You could then be a international criminal...

Jim

@Rod Stewart posted:

Hi Gary, thanks for the additional pic. I see what you mean, the painted version does look somewhat better. Maybe keep us posted on the dyeing experiment, that might work really well.

That price sounds just fine, but there is the issue of shipping. I live in Canada, dont know how you feel about that? 

Rod

 

 

@Rod Stewart posted:

 I live in Canada, dont know how you feel about that? 

Releived 😓

Just teasing. All of my Grandparents lived there for years, even if born here. I can almost throw rocks to Canadian shore and a CP engine is my grail to be found.

Send it via of "Bubbles" & the Patrick Swayze Express 

 

The pin trick would work with a small slot on the length and solder to keep it upright, but they would twist and fall over without it imo.

Note the tube on 0-27 is smaller than O. And because of both being round, I'd extend the web grips down to sit on the foot too, so they aren't as prone to being pried open if pushed on to cause twist.

Wood shelves work ok, but things do work thier way to the edges and fall at times. Same with "level".   A lip or track holds best and is immune to vibration of trucks, trains nearby and even light earthquakes.

The milled aluminum shelves are often designed for easier railing than track as there have flange grooves cut in a flat sheet, and the wheels not seated yet just drop in after pushing the loco/car towards the wall some. I.e. built like a paved railroad crossing.i

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