https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZODzdY3HR0
Just replace the gear with a belt making an oblong horizontal path, and the blue moving carriage with the slot is the same but moves a much longer path horizontally.
I like my postwar one. Works like a charm.
Vinny26 posted:I like my postwar one. Works like a charm.
Nothing wrong with a postwar one, but the difference is, the MTH one is much quieter (DC can motor) and has a much more impressive rotating board update than any Lionel version. Yes there are going to be 2 camps- old classic - and claim reliability and originality, and then there is the new modern wiz bang- and yes- the entire point of this topic is the belt can and does fail, and was a weak point in the design as manufactured by MTH- however, bonus factor- the DIY crowd can buy up these broken cast away "inferior" units for a fraction of the price, fix them for maybe even under $10 with an off the shelf belt, and perform better than new and last just as long if not longer than any film belt in an original one. This was never meant to be a debate of old vs new, just how to fix the new ones, but if you want to go there........
Sorry for the rant. My point was, I'm sitting here watching a topic of frustration for a lot of folks who bought these, had them break, then could not buy new belts and likely, that's because the spare belts on the shelf self destructed. So MTH said we aren't going down that road again, and people are left flapping in the wind. How many users have these broken sitting on a shelf? How many are beyond frustrated and came here for help? I come along, I measure the pitch and other belt details, having been in the 3D printing hobby that uses these light timing belts, I attempt to share knowledge of a cheap and reliable and now tested and proven solution. That solution should be widely available worldwide since we know the technical specifications and these belts are quite common given the 3D printer and CNC movement over the last 10 years, with massive production and low cost of these belts. The belt I linked from Amazon was just over $2 shipped to your door. I've seen the price range on these, but they can be had for some where between $15 clear down to an insane $2. Heck, the OEM belt from MTH was more than that shipped. Again, I'm just a bit frustrated and actually trying to help folks who may have given up hope, might have been quite upset, sitting there with a broken unit and no parts from MTH, and give them an option. Comments on a Lionel one- in this topic??? Who does that help?
Jetguy posted:The point of this topic is the belt can and does fail, and was a weak point in the design as manufactured by MTH- however, bonus factor- the DIY crowd can buy up these broken cast away "inferior" units for a fraction of the price, fix them for maybe even under $10 with an off the shelf belt, and perform better than new and last just as long if not longer than any film belt in an original one.
I'm sitting here watching a topic of frustration for a lot of folks who bought these, had them break, then could not buy new belts because the spare belts on the shelf self destructed. I'm frustrated trying to help folks who may have given up hope, might have been quite upset, sitting there with a broken unit and no parts from MTH, and give them an option. Comments on a Lionel one- in this topic??? Who does that help?
You offer a GREAT and much appreciated suggestion/s! 
Just to make clear. I have the MTH besides the postwar one. The MTH one is dead. Belt broke
Looking for suggestions on how to fixture the belt and drill a straight hole into the side of the belt without breaking out. The size drill will be either .75mm or 1/32" diameter hole in the belt. It is such a small hole and the side of the belt is not very thick. How deep should I go? I'm thinking 3/8"deep in a 1/2" wide belt.
I thank all of you for your help.
Jetguy posted:FWIW, we have been using off the shelf belts to fix these. The belt is T5 pitch, 12.5mm wide 66 0r 67 teeth. We drill a hole in one of the teeth using a micro drill bit of 0.75mm diameter, and then press in the original long pin. In addition, a collar is used on the pin to set the forward distance the belt can move towards the siding gantry. The reason is it's near impossible to get a belt with a ridge in the middle as a guide, but it's not strictly required and with some attention an off the shelf belt can be used. While this is a 16mm wide example, at worst it hangs off the front edge of the pulleys, but may not then need the collar https://www.amazon.com/Gates-T...Length/dp/B00CJFSLMI
I was hoping I had pictures of the belt in place, but it was done at a friends house. All I could find was measuring the pitch of the original belt and then the video of it working after the replacement belt was installed.
@Vernon Barry someone had a good question regarding how to drill straight into the belt without having the bit break out.
Also, the belt you suggested is apparently special order from Gates, although there are other similar belts available on eBay
I think this is a club board.
Mth why a belt like this?. I'll give a point. For using the top and bottom for back and forth
But. . this should of been done with a long worm. And the gear attached to the trolley.
Switch at each end.
An acme thread and nut could be used too.
2 bearings at end to support rod. Simple... And this would of been a lot less to make.
And would last for a long time.
That might be my fix.
I guess. Even using a long bolt and nut would work too.
But you would need to add a gear. A worm you can use that with a motor with a gear on end To turn it. Less work..
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Ok, I bit the bullet and bought an off the shelf belt. I managed to drill enough of a hole that I can get the pin in place. More on that in a separate post later.
My question has to do with the wiring. I managed to break off one of the wires that goes to the stud panel. The outside has 3 posts: the top 2 are for the switch, and the side 2 are for power. But on the backside, there are 4 wires. 2 are black. One goes to a disc capacitor and then ties to the frame. To which stud does the other end go?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Chris
LVHR
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This subject seems to need a boost. Both black wires go together on the bottom post.
I had two to repair so I got extra belts in case I screwed up attaching pin. Also the shipping would have more than doubled price of belts. Anyway I did not screw up any so I have extra flexible belts with out pin holes.
Reading all of the above problems and solutions I did not see any one else complain about the other manufacturing problems.
On one the motor had to be raised to keep the gears from disengaging.
Both of them had the sticky oil problem that happen with the oil used in both Lionel and MTH after 20 years.
Some one mentioned the belt slipping from the MTH replacement. On both the belt tensioner was locked in place by not training the assemblers and poor engineered tensioner.
Over all accessory is built well and others parts are over built.
To everyone who contributed a suggestion or idea,THANK YOU!!!! My MTH Dispatching Board is now repaired and operational!
LK: Thanks for telling me where the broken wire went. Your belt tensioner comment is spot on as well. Poorly designed, and poorly assembled. It took a bit to get mine free. It is better than it was, but that is not saying much. I did not disassemble the motor and gearbox. It was running slowly when I first tried it, but gradually freed itself and was running fairly well when I stopped for the night. Is Red-n-Tacky a suitable grease for these plastic gears?
Jetguy: The belt wants to wander off the idler roller, but cannot, because it is wider than the original belt, and there is not enough space for it to clear the roller. And I do have a spacer on the pin to the trolley to help keep the belt in place. What we need is a replacement roller design. I have an idea which should work, have no access to a 3D printer. If anyone has access to one and is willing to help us out, please contact me via email.
BTW, drilling the hole for the pin is a pain in the tush. I ruined the first hole as the rubber just did not stay put while I tried to drill it. I finally hit upon the idea of clamping it securely in a vise with flat metal jaws. This kept the rubber from wiggling. But I still could not drill a straight hole. The bit traveled out near the middle of the tooth. So I reversed the belt in the vise, and drilled from the other side: Same result. At this point I took an Exacto knife and cleared out the rubber in the middle. This left me with 2 rubber posts with holes. I put the pin in, and it stayed. Not a perfect solution, but it works, at least for now. I'm not worried about a damaged tooth or 2 weakening the belt. I found out mine has steel belting inside the rubber.
Chris
LVHR
